Altmühltal with MTB & Camper: Road trip to Treuchtlingen, Eichstätt & Kipfenberg
David Voll
· 26.10.2022
Hardly any other European river meanders as slowly and inconspicuously as the Bavarian Altmühl. But the trail favourites of the "Radlchaosgmoa" have long been sprouting up on its supposedly quiet valley slopes.
The sign "Toboggan run trail" confuses me. Tobogganing? "Definitely, because it's so nice and flowy!" Andi calls out to me before the trail swallows him up. I try to keep hold of his rear wheel, but my guide leaves me behind in a cloud of dust and bobs down the forest path on his 150-millimetre fully like there's no tomorrow. At the last moment, I see him turn onto the black line - but the lean cross-country file under my bum almost decides on its own in favour of the defused red route, without the stone field and road gap.
Down at the valley station of the Heumödern trails, Andi is already waiting, grinning broadly and relaxed, while I have the feeling that the bubbling adrenaline in my veins is about to pop a champagne cork. "Good warm-up, isn't it?" jokes Andi, knowing full well what's in store for me today. He speaks well, I think, as I take a closer look and spot the fear-inducing protector armour underneath his fluffy Lycra outfit.
Andi has been a member of the "Radlchaosgmoa" (German for "bicycle chaos community") for years, a loose group of former downhill pros and bike veterans from the region who meet up for weekly "activities" on their home trails. And the mountain bike trail park in Treuchtlingen is of course also part of their "community area". In addition to a practice course and pump track at the valley station, there are five different, permanently signposted trails to choose from. You can let off steam all day long.
Our 1st address: The Heumödern trails in Treuchtlingen
A lot has actually happened in the Bavarian Altmühltal since our last visit. In 2011, we travelled through the entire valley from Gunzenhausen in the Franconian Lake District to the mouth of the Danube near Kelheim. But not on the highly frequented river cycle path, but on the 200-kilometre panoramic trail, which winds its way up through the valley flanks with an elevation gain of 5,550 metres. The often steep ups and downs took four days - and we didn't just make friends with this report. Some of the many trail sections are also very popular with hikers. So it was only a matter of time before there was trouble.
But the Altmühltal has been focussing on family sports tourism for years, and so compromises have been found in some regions that satisfy everyone. So it's high time for a new visit. But not in the form of a traverse. This time we want to take a closer look at the three best trail spots, each with a large loop. And as the Altmühltal is also known for its inexpensive camper sites, photographer Christian Penning and I travelled there in true campervan style.
"Good warm-up, isn't it?" gushes Andi, who has just let himself out over the stone fields and road gaps of the black toboggan run line.
Our first destination was clear: Treuchtlingen. The trail park has already hosted the German Enduro Championships, and professional trail builders have been working here since 2019. Our local guide Andi hadn't promised us too much. "Natural trails are simply the best," enthuses Andi, who got into mountain biking with the advent of the first full-suspension bikes at the end of the 1990s.
In the evening, while cutting my pizza, I can feel my forearms. They haven't had as much to do for a long time as they did today on the rooty Heumödern trails. But even before the tiramisu is served, Andi is typing messages to his mate Marco to make arrangements for tomorrow's trail ride in Eichstätt. How far is it by car? "30 kilometres," estimates Andi. Christian nods tiredly: "Then we'll sleep here tonight."
Tour 1: Treuchtlingen trails
- Length: 16.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 401 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Route description
From the spa gardens, the path runs past the castle to the first tarmac ramp up to the castle ruins. A narrow serpentine path leads behind it to the toboggan run trail. The trail initially flows along an earthy surface, later over sharp stones and finally steeply down the ski slope over root carpets and a few jumps (bypass possible).
Past the valley station, you then follow a gravel path up to the start of all the other trails. The Z trail has lots of roots and stones as well as berms and requires good skills on the steep and difficult red descent! The blue line is easier. The trail ends at the pump track next to the valley station.
The route to the Siggi Trail leads via the Julian Trail, a flat flow trail that is also suitable for the little ones and ends on a feeder trail. The subsequent Siggi Trail begins with a gentle gradient and becomes steeper, rockier and more rooty at the end. There are two options: red trail with jumps, blue trail without jumps.
The longest of all the Heumödern trails, the Eulenhof Trail, awaits with a grand finale and leads down into the valley on the other side of the slope: Lots of dirt, small berms and root passages make this largely natural descent very varied. You return to the car park through the village.
Starting point
Motorhome parking Treuchtlingen at the Kurpark
Highlights
All the Heumödern trails, of course. An information board at the valley station indicates the current six different trails with their length and difficulty level.
Key points
The black line with stone field and small road gap at the end of the toboggan run trail. If you don't want that, simply choose the red line.
Retreat
At the Heumöderntal valley station there are sweet and savoury treats.
2nd trail stop: "Valley capital" Eichstätt
The sun is just rising as we steer our campervan eastwards towards Eichstätt. Castles and palaces sit enthroned on the valley flanks of the lazily winding Altmühl. Two hours later, we meet Andi's mate Marco on the prince-bishop's residence square in the old town - one of the most beautiful squares in Germany, they say. What catches my eye are the many Yeti logos. Not on the residence, but on Marco's bike and clothes. "My first bike was a Yeti, and I now have one of the largest collections in the world," says Marco proudly.
The bearded giant started biking in the mid-90s and celebrated his greatest racing successes in 2012: "Bavarian downhill champion and third in the German Cup!" After a comminuted hip fracture at the German Championships in 2015, however, he left competitive sport behind him. Not only that, I think. He also leaves me standing in the rain like a bucket of water. Although I really try my best on the challenging descent from the Figurenfeld and on the Lange Bank trail with its narrow, slippery downhill serpentines.
Before the final Frauenberg Uphill Challenge, Marco says goodbye to us because, unlike us, he knows what's coming next. With the last of our strength, Andi and I soon push up the super steep, narrow and blocked ramp to the paragliding airfield in Eichstätt in the pouring rain. Once at the top, the sun has now pierced through the dark mountains of cloud and a huge rainbow stretches over Eichstätt like a colourful halo.
Tour 2: Eichstätt Trail circuit
- Length: 34.6 kilometres
- Uphill: 796 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Route description
After a short roll-in phase on the Altmühltal cycle path, a very steep path leads up to the Heide plateau and then flat on to the Figurenfeld. Then it's downhill on the figure 8 trail to the Hessental hikers' car park. From here, a wide gravel path with a moderate gradient leads across the plateau back to Eichstätt.
Now the panoramic trail winds its way up over challenging hairpin bends and then takes a flowing route to the Schönblick restaurant. This is followed by the Schönblick trail descent over rough Jura limestone. Caution: The trail ends at a staircase to the road! Beyond the road, the trail drops steeply down to the Altmühl with an alpine character. With glowing brakes and aching forearms, you then roll flat up to the ascent to Willibaldsburg Castle, through an avenue and along forest and meadow paths past the fossil quarry.
The JuraFlow jump line awaits at the DAV climbing hall, but you have to book in advance. The Lange Bank Trail, on the other hand, is freely accessible and soon winds steeply and in tight bends down to the Altmühl. Take a short breather on the flat before the Frauenberger Uphill Challenge #2 begins after the railway subway in Wasserzell. Narrow, rough and super steep at the end, the path leads up to Frauenberger Heide. Then you can enjoy: first the view of Eichstätt and then the flowing path through the "KultUrwald", which spits out bikers right in the town.
Starting point
Motorhome parking Eichstätt
Highlights
Figurenfeld, panoramic path to Schönblick
Key points
The rough Schönblick Trail and the steep Lange-Bank Trail require confident bike control, while the Frauenberger Uphill Challenge #2 requires plenty of steam in the legs.
Retreat
Restaurant Schönblick (km 15.6) or for a snack at Schnellers Backstub'n on the outskirts of Eichstätt
3rd Altmühltal spot: Kipfenberg
Our last stop is Kipfenberg, where we find a premium campsite right on the banks of the Altmühl - with a view of the castle! However, the castle is still shrouded in mist when Radlchaosgmoa veteran Mane knocks on our camper door. Today, the 55-year-old physics engineer wants to show us his territory, and that means climbing again. We head up to Arnsberg Castle and continue over the Michelsberg, where we are not only amazed by the view, but also by the 120 metre high, white limestone towers.
Shortly after Kipfenberg Castle, a herd of woolly four-legged friends joins this idyllic local film. "The sheep ensure that the Jura rocks don't become overgrown with bushes and trees," explains Mane. We now have to push our bikes a short distance through a sensitive nature reserve, but we can put the energy we have saved to good use when we ride along the Husarensteig trail. This path clings to moss-stained rock and tries to lever us into the slope with an infinite number of roots.
We brave the gnarled undergrowth, but afterwards we urgently need a break in the small café at the Roman and Bavarian Museum. Thanks to the huge slice of cake, I let Mane tempt me to take an extra loop through the forest: a crisp singletrail circuit over slippery stones and roots, but worth it for the panoramic view over the Altmühl loops.
"Actually, you should go a bit further downstream tomorrow," muses Mane as we roll down to the fairground in Kipfenberg. But his list of other worthwhile trail laps is drowned out by brass band music. A celebration that is not for us, but for the bleating herd that arrives a little later: lambing festival!
Tour 3: Kipfenberg trail circuit
- Length: 32.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 685 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
Route description
The first few kilometres lead up to Arnsberg Castle on asphalt and gravel. From here you cycle along forest paths, past rugged rock formations, up to Michelsberg with its fantastic panoramic views. Caution: Push bikes within the fenced-off areas! The very rooty and narrow Husarensteig trail (also known as the Mühlensteig trail) starts off flat along the rocky flanks before the last section of the trail winds its way down into the Birktal valley in tight hairpin bends.
After crossing the road, a steep road leads up to Kipfenberg Castle and the geographical centre of Bavaria. From here you have the option of riding a short singletrail loop on stony, rooty terrain or continuing downhill on the long ADAC trail (Kressensteig). At the bottom, join the cycle path towards Birktalmühle and take the turn-off into the forest. A mixture of forest and gravel paths gradually winds its way up to the castle, where the PCB trail starts below the old walls into the valley to Arnsberg.
In Arnsberg, the tour crosses the Altmühl and then makes a short and crisp ascent. After almost 100 metres in altitude, the last climb is mastered and you follow the flat gravel road to the launch site of the Böhmingen hang-gliding club. The route then follows gentle forest paths and earthy trails past the Limes Tower and down the rooty Limes Trail to the entrance to Kipfenberg.
Starting point
Azur Camping in Kipfenberg
Highlights
Panoramic views of the Altmühltal from Arnsberg Castle and the Michelsberg as well as the Husarensteig, ADAC and PCB trail
Key points
The narrow and rooty Husarensteig trail with its hairpin bends at the end requires very good riding technique.
Retreat
The café in the Roman and Bavarian Museum at Kipfenberg Castle
Altmühltal: information about the area, travelling, accommodation, bike parks
The precinct
The Altmühl has its source at the Frankenhöhe and stretches for around 200 kilometres to Kelheim on the Danube. The valley with its not very high but steep sides is known for its fossil-rich Jurassic limestone, in which the archaeopteryx was found, and for its medieval castles and palaces, the Roman Limes and its busy river cycle path. Families and youth camps also feel at home here thanks to the many opportunities for caving, climbing, canoeing and mountain biking. Since 2012 Treuchtlingen The Specialized Sram Enduro Series has already been held here several times and the Bikespot Heumödern trails finally opened in 2019.
The university city Eichstätt is surrounded by forests with trails and opened the JuraFlow dirt course for bikers in 2019.
Kipfenberg is located approx. 20 kilometres east of Eichstätt. Almost 2,000 years ago, the Limes, the former Roman imperial border, ran through the market town here. Today, the town is considered the geographical centre of Bavaria with numerous forest trails that also lead to the historic walls from Roman times.
Travelling by train
The railway town of Treuchtlingen and Eichstätt are easily accessible by train. There are direct connections from Munich several times a day (journey time: approx. 1.5 hours). You have to change trains at least once from Munich to Kipfenberg, which adds around 30 minutes to the journey time. Info: www.thetrainline.com
Overnight stay
We were travelling by motorhome. This is ideal in the Altmühltal Nature Park, as there are many camping and tent sites here.
Treuchtlingen: Excellent pitch at the Kurpark, six kilometres from the trail park. With space for 91 motorhomes, prices from 13 euros per night and motorhome incl. waste disposal, WC, showers, waste disposal, WLAN. Fresh water and electricity cost extra. www.tourismus-treuchtlingen.de
Eichstätt: Motorhome and tent site directly on the Altmühl with space for 70 motorhomes, prices from 12 euros per night plus electricity and shower. Overnight stay also possible in camping barrels from 49 euros for 2 people in their own sleeping bags, incl. electricity and heating. Optional: bread roll service, www.eichstaett.de
KipfenbergAzur Camping Altmühltal, also directly on the water, from 24 euros for 2 people incl. electricity, water, waste disposal, WC, shower. Optional: bread roll service, WLAN. Info: www.azur-camping.com
Bike parks
The Heumödern trails in Treuchtlingen are open all year round during the day. There are five permanently signposted mountain bike trails with varying degrees of difficulty:
- Julian Trail (1.1 km, easy)
- Siggi Trail (0.9 km, easy-medium)
- Z-Trail (0.5 km, medium)
- Toboggan run trail (0.6 km, medium-difficult)
- Eulenhof Trail (2.5 km, easy-difficult)
There is also a practice trail with a pump track at the valley station. Admission is free, but donations for trail maintenance are very welcome. www.heumoederntrails.de
The Juraflow on the Blumenberg near Eichstätt is a DAV MTB centre with an area of approx. 5000 square metres. It includes a table line, dirt line, pump track and kids' track for beginners and advanced riders. Admission is free, but subject to opening hours. The facility remains closed when it rains. Info: www.juraflow.de
