The enemy is green again. No, not the forester. And not any Martians either. The enemy is called Urtica Dioica, which translates as stinging nettle. A monster, armed to the teeth with fine but hard hairs. These hairs break like brittle glass at the slightest touch. Under the microscope, each sharp-edged fracture resembles an injection needle with burning liquid. Dozens of these poisonous syringes pierce the skin of the defenceless victim with a light swipe - and the stalks whip around our ears. Yes, around our ears! The climate in the Westerwald seems to trigger enormous growth spurts in the stinging nettles. My calves in particular now look like those of a leper. But that's the price you have to pay for the extra narrow paths in the Brexbach valley. Besides, we're not exactly travelling at a snail's pace.
You can find the GPS data for these tours in the download area below:
- Tour 1: To the Köppel (39.7 km, 731 m elevation gain, 3:15 h)
- Tour 2: Brexbach trails (26 km, 575 m elevation gain, 3 h)
- Tour 3: Sayn and Rhine (39.7 km, 906 m elevation gain, 4:30 h)
I'm even surprised at my guide Jörg, who thaws out more and more with every kilometre as he takes in the winding beauty. The people of the Westerwald are said to be somewhat secretive. I had researched this thoroughly before my journey. And that the inhabitants of this low mountain range are also known as "Wäller". The only funny thing was that when I entered the term, Google spit out hundreds of websites about a dog breed of the same name. The long-haired four-legged friends are described as "athletic, in good health, fearless and not at all vicious". Fits! No, all joking aside, Jörg really is a real dog. "Chilled out" is the new German word for it. In addition to his job at the post office, he is also a bike guide. "When you're riding across the Alps with a group, keeping calm is your top priority," says the certified trail scout, as the path leaves a few metres of space to roll side by side. "Because something always happens along the way. Even if it's just a flat tyre."
His enduro touring bike also demonstrates a tendency towards enjoyment. "After all, biking has to be fun." Just as I would have thought. Only when Jörg spots a single trail does he get - shall we say - restless. He's barely thought about it before it's time again: the path drops down a steep section in tight hairpin bends. Jörg routinely circles round the corners and shoots down the intermediate straight. "Simply awesome," he grins at the end of the parade of bends. "Who needs the Alps?" Jörg is rightly enthusiastic about his home trails. One of the longest trails follows the winding course of the Brexbach stream. And a mysterious, overgrown railway line. Almost like in Switzerland, the tracks snake over viaducts and through tunnels. Well over 100 years ago, this was a masterpiece of engineering in this narrow canyon. But the profitability of the line went into the red, despite growing tourism and a rescue organisation. Now nature is reclaiming its terrain and the Brexbach Valley is once again sinking into a deep sleep.
The proximity to the bustling Rhine Valley should not hide the fact that life in the Westerwald has always been no walk in the park. The soil was not very fertile and the only way to earn a living here was as a basket maker, tinker or broom maker. In 1852, the starving villagers of Sespenroth finally gave up and emigrated to America. They tore down their houses and sold all their material goods to pay for the journey. Today, only a cross remains as a reminder of the old village near Montabaur. Today, barely two kilometres away, people race along the new ICE route through the Westerwald. Straight as a die, their eyes fixed on their smartphones, because the many tunnels mean that the beauty of the landscape remains hidden anyway.
But we take our time. Somehow the clocks really do seem to tick more slowly in the Westerwald. Marvellous. This must be the legendary deceleration that stress researchers are constantly talking about. And we feel the climbs. For example, up to the Köppel, 250 metres in altitude. Then up to the tower, a concrete construction sin from the sixties, but with a great panoramic view. It is said that every Wäller has been up here before. We don't meet a soul, apart from the eccentric landlord of the Köppelhütte. "Too warm for hiking today," he grumbles without looking up from his daily newspaper. "People prefer to lie somewhere by the lake." That's fine by us. A pleasant breeze is blowing at the top of the platform. The view sweeps along the horizon. Taunus, Eifel, Siebengebirge - Germany, a sea of waves. And all the undiscovered trails in it! As if drawn with a ruler, the motorway and high-speed railway cut through the toy world in the distance. But apart from the twittering of birds, no sound can be heard. The sea of treetops undulates gently under the blue sky.
In the evening, we meet up with the Brexbachgemsen. The locals should return from their Wednesday evening outing around eight. Bit by bit, splinter groups arrive. It looks like the tour has been pretty selective again. Soon a good dozen bikes are leaning against the club pub in Sayn. "We're not a club," emphasises Thorsten, who first brought the locals together in 2005. "We call it a community." It doesn't really matter. After all, there are now around 50 bikers who ride the trails in the area twice a week in different group sizes. "Guests are very welcome," says colleague Jens. "If you want to join us, just come to the meeting point at the castle in Sayn." The tour starts on Wednesdays at 5 pm and Saturdays at 1 pm. "And afterwards we always have our legendary schnitzel sandwich," recommends the head of the troupe. "We created the recipe ourselves." Sports nutrition experts are not even asked for their opinion here. The atmosphere at the tables is exuberant. And with every cold hop drink, the descriptions of the home trails become more flowery. This urgently needs to be checked out. We arrange to go on a tour together the next day.
At nine o'clock sharp, the boys scuffle about. They are joined by: Dirk, alias Carboni, 24-hour Uwe and Michael, who simply goes by Michael. They are heading far into the north-west of the region. Sayntal, Isenburg and Rheinsteig promise maximum trail yield. But you have to work hard for it, the stage profile looks like the pulse rate of a frightened rabbit. After just a few kilometres, it is clear that a low mountain range does not forgive any loss of form. The climbs are too short to find a rhythm, the descents too short for real recovery. As a result, you are constantly out of breath. Uwe enjoys it. As a specialist for 24-hour races, he often puts together really long training laps. For example, the "Dark Side of Köppel", which adds up to around 2000 metres in altitude over 80 kilometres. And, of course, he has also completed the Westerwaldsteig. 235 kilometres in two days. But that's another story.
In front of me, Carboni pushes his high-tech bike up the narrow forest path. His nickname is no coincidence. "I only have carbon bikes in my garage," says Dirk, naturally at the steepest point. "The material simply fascinates me." I've stopped talking for a while due to a lack of oxygen and just listen. We work our way up the steep flank of the Saynbach valley. Isenburg lies below with its imposing castle ruins. Everywhere in the Westerwald, old walls bear witness to an eventful past. The narrow valleys in particular could be perfectly controlled. The next section of the trail ends at the Hausenborn pilgrimage chapel. A mystical place that gives us pause for thought. Gothic stone arches rise up in the middle of the forest. Small plaques hang in a shrine on which people give thanks for the divine help they have received. A large cross watches over our further descent. Near the Rhine Valley, we come across the Limes. The Roman border wall runs along the edge of the Westerwald. There are sections with reconstructed wooden palisades and watchtowers. In most cases, however, only an earth wall or ditch can be guessed from the terrain. At the top of the hill, we join the Hasenpfad, which the locals unanimously agree is the best singletrail far and wide. Jörg's anticipation is also visibly rising. A three-kilometre rollercoaster ride through the undergrowth begins. With every bend, I realise more and more why I now prefer many a path in the low mountain range to the bumpy Alpine trails - panorama or not. The ground is soft and grippy, you can really let yourself drift. Then it bites at my legs again: another army of stinging nettles greedily grabs at my calves. Grit your teeth and push through at full speed!
BIKE Touring author, Matthias Rotter: The Westerwald has taught me once again that you don't always have to head for the Alps. The best flow trails can be found in our German low mountain ranges.
REVIER HIGHLIGHTS, GENERAL INFO AND SCENE SPECIALS
You won't find any breathtaking peaks in the German low mountain range. But the endless single trails are reason enough to put the Westerwald on your to-do list. Here are the best tips for the scene as well as addresses for accommodation and shops.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The precinct
The low mountain range lies at the intersection of the federal states of Hesse, North Rhine-Westphalia and Rhineland-Palatinate. The gentle ridges of the Westerwald are bordered by the Rhine in the west, the Lahn in the south and the Sieg in the north. The highest point is the Fuchskaute at 657 metres in the Hoher Westerwald sub-region. The touring area extends in the western part of the mountain range, also known as the Montabaurer Westerwald. At the drop into the Rhine Valley, the deeply incised valleys of Saynbach and Brexbach provide scenic variety and plenty of altitude metres: 1000 and more of them add up on the clock at the end of a day tour. In addition, the network of single trails in this region is particularly dense (the tours start in Höhr-Grenzhausen, Grenzau district). The Limes once ran along the Rhine Valley. You will come across the historic Roman defence wall on almost every tour. There are numerous reconstructions of towers and forts to discover. Several long-distance hiking trails invite you to take a multi-day stage tour, for example the Westerwaldsteig (235 km), Rheinsteig or Limeswanderweg.
Arrival
By car from the south or north via the A3 motorway (Cologne - Frankfurt). The motorway cuts right through the middle of the Westerwald. At the Dernbach junction (near Montabaur), the A48 motorway provides the connection to the Rhine Valley (towards Koblenz and A61) and to Höhr-Grenzhausen (only exit). The A48 motorway also provides access to the Westerwald from the west (Trier/Eifel). By train: The nearest railway station is in Koblenz (approx. 20 km from Höhr-Grenzhausen). Distance (Grenzau) from: Cologne 100 km, Frankfurt/M. 110 km, Kassel 240 km.
Guided tours
- MTB Xpert, Winkelstr. 3, Ulmen, Tel. 02676/9520470, www.mtb-xpert.deGregor Mainzer and his team of trail scouts know every hairpin bend on their home trails.
- The Brexbachgemsen, info: www.brexbachgemsen.de
BikeShop/rental
Laufrad Racingbikes, Bahnhofstr. 27, Lahnstein, Tel. 02621/62197, www.laufrad.comvery well-stocked shop with a reliable workshop. It's worth the journey (approx. 20 km from Grenzau).
Maps/Literature
Compass map no. 830 "Southern Westerwald", scale 1:50000, ISBN 978-3854911364
Accommodation
An overview of all booking options can be found at www.westerwald.info
Tip: Hotel Zugbrücke, Brexbachstr. 11-17, Höhr-Grenzhausen, Tel. 02624/105-0, www.zugbruecke.de. The modern sports hotel is an ideal base camp for trail adventures. And after the tour, you can chill out in the first-class wellness and fitness area.
General information
Westerwald Touristik-Service, Kirchstr. 48a, Montabaur, Tel. 02602/30010, www.westerwald.info
SCENE SPECIALS
Bike parks
- Boppard and Bad Ems None other than Boppard local Amir Kabbani wielded a shovel and pickaxe for this small but beautiful park. The dirt pro and his mates modelled a fun playground on the steep banks of the Rhine south of Koblenz. There is a dirt section with several lines and obstacles. This section also includes a pump track. The focus for freeriders is a one-kilometre-long flow trail, garnished with jumps, northshores and berms. Less experienced riders can improve their skills on a short freeride practice track. Use of the park is free! You only have to pay if you take the chairlift up to the start instead of using muscle power. Info: www.bikeparkboppard.de
- Only around 20 kilometres from Grenzau, the Canyon Flowline winds its way from the slopes of the Westerwald down to Bad Ems. Over a length of 3.8 kilometres, jumps and numerous Northshore elements provide that rollercoaster feeling. The ride is free of charge. A shuttle service is available at weekends and on public holidays for a fee. Info: www.emserbikepark.de
Koblenz
Okay, the nearby town at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine rivers is not geographically part of the Westerwald - but it's definitely worth a visit! Tip: Take the Rhine cable car from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress from the east bank into the city. You can then start your stroll through the beautiful old town at the Deutsches Eck. Street cafés and pubs tempt you to take a break. Tip: The Gelateria Egelosia (Braugasse 6) is also known among insiders as "Germany's best ice cream parlour". There is definitely plenty of cultural programme on offer. Koblenz is known for its alternative music scene. Always quite full, but worth seeing: the summer festival "Rhine in Flames" with gigantic fireworks, held annually on the second Saturday in August. Info: www.koblenz.de
Pizza at Brexx
Napoli in the Westerwald! Pizza bakers trained in Naples and a wood-fired oven also made there - it doesn't get much more Italian than this. The highlight, however, are the unusual creations on the dough with chilli honey, tomatoes from Vesuvius or pistachios. Home-brewed draught beers quench your thirst. And if you still have energy left after the tour, you can enjoy a quiet game of bowling at the bowling alley next door. Info: www.brexx-grenzau.de
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