The little flame blazes yellow and blue, providing warmth and comfort. This is also urgently needed, as the Vosges show us their cold, wet shoulder at the start. All of a sudden, the clouds had rolled in and covered the mountains in a nasty veil of grey. Naturally, the Frenchman doesn't get on his mountain bike in such nasty weather. Thomas Dietsch rubs his hands symbolically on the mini-flame and grins mischievously. We're not sitting around a campfire somewhere in the deep forest doing survival training, but in a cosy restaurant in the small town of Kaysersberg. The flame slowly goes out on the crème brulée, leaving behind a crispy caramel crust.
"Another coffee for dessert?" The landlord looks round. General nodding. In view of such culinary delicacies, it is easy to endure the drumming of the raindrops against the window panes. "Savoir vivre" is what they call it on the other side of the Rhine. Although - Alsace doesn't really seem that French. The vineyards are reminiscent of the neighbouring Kaiserstuhl, the place names sound pretty German, and the same goes for the name of our celebrity guide. Marathon ace Thomas Dietsch wants to use the time off between two race weekends to show us the most beautiful trails on his home turf. Looking through the fogged-up windows, I'm not so sure whether that will work out today. But Thomas is optimistic. "The weather forecast promises improvement from the afternoon." To confirm this, the Alsatian devotedly punctures the brown sugar coating on the calorie bomb. An envious glance at his lean figure confirms that he can afford it: not a gram too much on his bones.
Three coffees later, someone up there actually turns off the tap. Fifteen o'clock - still enough time for a quick round. Mon dieu! When someone like Thomas Dietsch talks about a fast lap, it sets off alarm bells in my legs. However, my nervousness soon proves to be unfounded. Because as a pro, Dietsch has no problem at all shifting down three gears. Due to the advanced stage of the day, he decides to pare the originally planned tour down to its essence: a single trail that stretches for kilometres from the Col du Wettstein over a mountain ridge, before dropping a few hundred metres in altitude at an ideal gradient. As we turn into the path at the pass, the wind has driven away most of the clouds. Warm evening light pours over the bare hilltops and makes the autumn-yellow grass glow. A few piebald cows watch us trail surfing with interest. Finally something going on up here.
We have checked out these five tours for you - you can download the GPS data below:
- TOUR 1: Vineyards & Trails (34.8 km | 906 m elevation gain | 3:00 h) - easy to moderate
- TOUR 2: Col Du Bonhomme (33.2 | 1035 m elevation gain | 3:30 h) - easy to moderately difficult
- TOUR 3: Lac de Schiessrothried (31.3 km | 850 m elevation gain | 2:30 h) - easy
- TOUR 4: Three Lakes Tour (50 km | 1485 m elevation gain | 5:30 h) - medium difficulty
- TOUR 5: Petit Ballon (38.4 km | 1139 m elevation gain | 4:00 h) - intermediate
"The main ridge of the Vosges is a weather divide that keeps out clouds from the west. This gives the bike area on the east side dry trails more often than average."
The main ridge of the Vosges is another four hundred metres higher, but seems close enough to touch. In the neighbouring Munster Valley, long shadows are already creeping over the slopes. Barely two hours after the downpour, the paths are already surprisingly dry again. Reddish sand has soaked up the wetness, an effective natural drainage system. Only in the forest, which we soon enter, is there still moisture between the trees. Grippy ground swallows our driving noises, the silence seems almost reverent. We have already passed a military cemetery at the Col du Wettstein, and after a few kilometres at the Collet du Linge the next one follows. It's hard to believe that the First World War raged with full force in this idyllic setting around a hundred years ago. The Germans and French lay opposite each other in trenches just a few metres apart on the Linge. The 1915 chronicle reports artillery fire that shook the mountain with unprecedented force. For years. Tens of thousands died. But the front line hardly shifted.
We leave the madness of the past behind us. Thomas has been enjoying the flow of these trails since he first sat on a mountain bike in the early nineties. "The Vosges still inspire me on every ride," he enthuses: "The mountains aren't as spectacular as in the Alps, but the trails provide maximum riding fun." His tip: The best flow can be found below the 1000 metre altitude line. Towards the main ridge, the trails are increasingly peppered with rocks and more challenging in terms of riding technique. At the summit of the Galtz, an oversized statue of Jesus spreads its arms above us. The vantage point high above his home town of Ingersheim is Dietsch's favourite place. In the meantime, the sky has cleared and there is a wonderful evening atmosphere. The view stretches across the Rhine plain all the way to the Black Forest. Wine villages nestle like miniatures in the undulating valleys on the edge of the Vosges mountains. We rush down into the valley in the last light of day.
"The Vosges may not be as spectacular as the Alps. But our trails have more flow. The grippy forest floor below the 1000 metre mark is a pleasure."
A quarter to nine the next morning. We meet at the bakery in Kaysersberg. Firstly, a café au lait to wake us up, plus a few crispy croissants. Locals walk through the alleyways with the obligatory baguettes under their arms. It's a social scene. The buses with the tourists have not yet arrived. With its picturesque half-timbered houses, Kaysersberg is considered one of the most beautiful places in Alsace. At the neighbouring table, a couple of sprightly pensioners are chatting in Alsatian dialect. This endangered language sounds like an amusing mixture of French, Swabian and Swiss German. Then we get on our bikes. Lac Noir, Lac Blanc and Lac du Forlet are the destinations, small reservoirs along the main Vosges ridge. We fight our way up the metres in altitude on a rough path that goes straight up from Orbey. If you miss even one step, you will be penalised with an immediate standstill. The chance of starting again: uncertain.
We reach Lac Noir, which is spectacularly situated in a rocky hollow. Unfortunately, a main road also runs past the lake, which can be quite busy with tourists. But there are hardly any conflicts with hikers in the Vosges, says Thomas. Although there is even something similar to a two-metre rule in France, hidden in some paragraphs. When I ask in surprise, Thomas waves it away. "'Laissez-faire' is the motto on our trails", mutual consideration. Around the Haufenwannkopf, the paths meander through the meadows in a particularly inviting way. But first we take a break at the viewpoint. Dietsch isn't a serene kilometre-eater who only stops when he has a flat tyre. "I need a nice goal to motivate me," he explains as his gaze wanders over the epic landscape. "And when I get to the top, I always take a few minutes to savour it." It is a matter close to his heart to pass on the joy of biking and nature to the next generation. Thomas regularly trains with the youngsters from the Munster bike club.
Our final tour also starts in the main town of the Munster Valley. Tour de France experts will probably have heard of the infamous Petit Ballon. At first glance, it looks like a harmless hump, typical of a low mountain range. However, an extremely steep pass road leads up there of all places - more pothole track than tarmac - which even Alberto Contador found terrifying. He steered into a ditch there during the 2014 Tour and had to abandon the race. The mountain is much friendlier to bikers.
"Every flow trail on the Petit Ballon rolls better than this torture track", we learn from Bruno, a local from Munster. The bike guide wants to show us the best trails on his local mountain. And he hasn't promised too much. The marvellous ascent to the summit alone makes our hearts beat faster, and not just because it's really uphill. From the tree line, we spiral upwards on a meadow path with great views. Now it becomes clear why the mountain is called "Kahler Wasen" in German. Or loosely translated: Bald with a view. The statue of the Madonna at the highest point really has secured itself a premium spot, the 360-degree panorama is impeccable. This also applies to the paths that Bruno has up his sleeve for the descent. First, we circle the Glatze in such a way that every direction is visually emphasised. Then we alternate between grippy meadow trails and shady forest paths. It's hard to know which is better. The decision is soon made for us, because Bruno has another ace up his sleeve with the long downhill to Soultzbach. And what an ace! This singletrack just won't end. Now I realise why God feels so at home in France of all places. Speaking of which: when we get to the bottom, it's actually time for a delicious flambéed crème brulée.
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Five things not to be missed in the Vosges.
1. eat tarte flambée
Describing the tarte flambée as an "Alsatian pizza" does not do justice to this culinary event. Even though it is also a topped dough base. In the original version, the topping consists of raw onions and bacon. The highlight, however, is the cream made from sour cream, which gives the tarte flambée its slightly sour, fresh flavour. Tip: A modern interpretation of tarte flambée is available at Flamme & Co. in Kaysersberg or Colmar. Info www.flammeandco.fr
2. wine tasting
The eastern flank of the Vosges is the sunny side of the mountain range. The lows approaching from the west rain down on the other side of the main ridge. This results in a downslope wind that blows gently down into the Rhine Valley. The best slope for vines! The wines from the Kaysersberg region are considered to be particularly fine wines. Numerous wineries offer guided tours and tastings.
3. colmar
The third largest town in Alsace lies at the entrance to the valleys of Kaysersberg and Munster. In the medieval town centre, half-timbered houses huddle around the Martinsmünster with its 71-metre-high tower. A must-see: The Krutenau district, known as "Little Venice", is criss-crossed by water canals. And just like in the Italian lagoon city, you can also sail through the city of Colmar in long barges. Info www.ville-colmar.fr
4th Mémorial du Linge
In 2015, it was exactly 100 years ago that 17,000 soldiers - German and French - lost their lives at the Lingekopf. These bloody battles were followed by a senseless trench war that dragged on for three years. Today, there is a museum at Col du Linge that commemorates this battlefield. The bunkers and trenches still evoke a feeling of trepidation. You pass the Col du Linge on Tour 4. info www.linge1915.com
5. munster cheese
The black speckled Vosges cow is sacred to the locals, almost like in India. Its milk is the raw material for Munster cheese. The strong cheese has an orange-coloured rind and is famous beyond the borders of the Munster Valley. Be sure to try it at a Ferme Auberge: Munster as a day-old fresh cheese, mixed with honey or cherry brandy! For example at the Fromagerie du Glasborn (Tour 4).
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INFO VOGESEN
The Vosges and Black Forest regions were once one mountain range. Today they are separated by the Rhine Valley and the French border. Nevertheless, the two low mountain ranges are easy to compare. The Vosges run west of the Rhine, starting in the south at Mulhouse and ending in the north at Karlsruhe. The bike area is located in the central part of the Vosges, in the catchment area of the valleys of Kaysersberg and Munster. A little further south, the Grand Ballon (1424 m) is the highest mountain in the low mountain range. The distinctive main ridge with its bare peaks is a characteristic feature.
Arrival
From Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg via the A8 or A6 motorways into the Rhine Valley. From the north via the A5 and A3 motorways. From Karlsruhe, continue southwards. From Offenburg to France and via Sélestat and Colmar to Kaysersberg or Munster.
Maps and tour information
Supertrail Map "Vosges/Lac Blanc", 1:25000, www.supertrail-map.com and hiking map "Vallée de Munster" IGN, 1:25000, available locally at the tourist offices
Accommodation
The valleys of Kaysersberg and Munster offer a wide range of accommodation, from camping to hotels. Overviews on the respective websites. Tips:
Hotel Hassenforder, 129 Rue du Général de Gaulle, 68240 Kaysersberg, tel. 0033/(0)389/471354, www.roger-hassenforder.comRoger Hassenforder is a former Tour de France pro whose family runs the biker-friendly hotel.
Auberge et Chalets de la Wormsa, 72 Rue de l'Altenhof, 68380 Metzeral, tel. 0033/(0)389/777290, www.alsace-chalets.frrustic-modern chalets in the middle of nature
Bike shops
Bike Air (mobile bike service), 1 Rue Klobb, 68150 Ribeauville, Tel. 0033/(0)681/115899, www.bikeair.fr
Organiser
Top bike trails in Schonach, tel. 0049/(0)7722/920751, www.top-bike-trails.com and Formanature in Munster,
Tel. 0033/(0)698/220700, www.rando-alsace.com
General information
Office du Tourisme de la Vallée de Kaysersberg, tel. 0033/(0)389/782278, www.kaysersberg.com
This article can be found in BIKE 1/2016. You can read the entire issue in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or as a print magazine in the DK shop reorder (while stocks last):
