Some of the gravel stones are the size of a melon, others the size of oranges. In between, you rattle over potholes despite driving with foresight. Quick reflexes to swerve out of the way are part and parcel of driving on the Ligurian Border Ridge Road. At least until your suspension and wrists have got used to the rough jolting beneath the tyres. Once you’ve got used to it, you really must concentrate on not getting too close to the precipice, because although the old military road in the Maritime Alps is wide enough for off-road vehicles, it isn’t secured by crash barriers on the outside.
Some of the stones are the size of a melon, others the size of oranges. In between, you’ll still be jolting over potholes despite driving with foresight. Quick reactions to swerve out of the way are among the most important driving manoeuvres on the Ligurian Border Ridge Road. At least until the suspension and your wrists have got used to the rough rattling beneath the tyres. Then you really must concentrate on not getting too close to the precipice, because although the old military road in the Maritime Alps is wide enough for off-road vehicles, it isn’t secured with crash barriers on the outside.
60 kilometres of spine-tingling scenery towards Colle di Tenda
Today, the road winds peacefully along the mountain ridges between Monesi di Triora and Limone Piemonte in the province of Cuneo. With constant views of the Mercantour National Park, and with a bit of luck, as far as the Mediterranean; towards the end, the summit of Mont Viso even hovers like a mirage above the northern horizon. However, it is clear from the many fortresses and military positions along the route that this road, with all its spectacular bends and hairpin turns, was by no means designed for leisurely drives.
Napoleon had already fought battles up here before King Umberto I began the systematic construction of fortifications and supply routes against the French in 1880. Years later, during the Second World War, Mussolini further extended the road to strengthen his Italian ‘Alpine Wall’ against France. With limited success, as is easy to see today, for the road – once entirely Italian – now crosses over to the French side on several occasions. These are all areas that Italy had to cede to its neighbours after the war.
As on most military roads in the Alps, every gravel bend here sends a shiver down your spine, whilst the loose, coarse scree saps a huge amount of energy. Finding a rhythm and pedalling through the panoramic scenery whilst conserving energy is possible on very few sections. There are also practically no sources of drinking water. Anyone needing food or accommodation on the 60-kilometre off-road main section between Colle Melosa and Colle di Tenda will have to head down into the valleys. The highest point of the tour is marked by Monte Saccarello (2,201 m) – provided you’re prepared to make a two-kilometre detour to its statue of Jesus.
However, you’re not entirely on your own on the Grenzkammstraße. On the main section, which is now also marketed as the ‘Alta Via del Sale’ (Salt Road), off-road vehicles and motorbikes are also permitted to use the road for a toll. Except on Tuesdays and Thursdays. On those days, the route is reserved for walkers and mountain bikers, who pay only a symbolic toll of one euro.
The damage caused by the storms in October 2020 has not yet been repaired
Admittedly, it’s a nuisance when, on other days, you actually have to squeeze past a car, but on the other hand, the road is constantly being repaired as a result. Particularly in the Western Alps, where low-pressure systems from the Atlantic sweep in almost unchecked and unleash their full force, the old military road would otherwise have eroded long ago. It is therefore always possible that the road may be closed for resurfacing work even during the season.
Indeed, the extensive damage caused by the severe storms in October 2020 in the Roya Valley has still not been fully repaired. The tunnel at the Tende Pass was completely closed for four and a half years. Whilst it’s of no interest to cyclists anyway, the legendary southern ramp, which branches off just before the tunnel, is one of the most beautiful routes you can tackle in the Alps.
46 hairpin bends wind their way up from the French town of Tende to the 1,871-metre-high pass. Stacked almost on top of one another on the steep slope and with an average gradient of 9 per cent, they’re a pleasure to cycle up. Unfortunately, these gravel hairpin bends were also closed off as part of the tunnel works. But as is always the case with these construction hoardings, which are easy to cut through...
For the classic route along the Ligurian Border Ridge Road, however, you don’t need either the tunnel or the southern approach to the Tende Pass. You turn off here on the Italian side, before the tunnel. This northern approach also has 12 tarmac hairpin bends, but it’s nowhere near as much of an experience as the southern approach. So, if you’re already there, it’s well worth tackling the series of hairpin bends from Tende. Or you could start right in Tende and simply drive along the Ligurian Border Ridge Road in the opposite direction.
The only important thing is to check in advance for any possible closures. There is currently a report that the tunnel (and therefore also the Tende South ramp) will be completely closed again from 21 September 26.
Map showing the Ligurian Border Ridge Road at a glance
Opening hours & toll regulations
- Season: The Grenzkammstraße is only open during the snow-free summer months. It is usually open from mid-June to mid-October, daily from 8 am to 8 pm. On Tuesdays and Thursdays, the road is closed to motorised traffic and open only to walkers and cyclists.
- Tolls: The main section (approx. 30 kilometres between Limone Piemonte and Briga Alta) is subject to a toll: 20 euros for cars and 4x4s, and 15 euros for motorbikes. Cyclists pay a nominal fee of 1 euro.
- Important: Be sure to take plenty of food and, above all, drinking water with you – there are hardly any water sources along the way.
- General information: altaviadelsale.it
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor