Auvergne is not a destination for people who like things to be comfortable. The volcanoes here demand everything – and give even more in return: steep mountain passes, secluded crater lakes, medieval castles and exquisite cuisine. A tour suggestion for a week-long e-bike ride through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the ‘Chaîne des Puys’
Text: Dr Heinz Klausmann
Like a silhouette, the ‘Chaîne des Puys’ stands out against the deep blue of the sky – dozens of volcanic cones, shoulder to shoulder, as if they had pushed their way up from the earth in a final, collective uprising. Against this backdrop, the châteaux of Fayet and Montmorin rise up from wooded hills, with the fertile Limagne plain stretching out below. A sight that takes your breath away – and on the final stage, mind you.
“Anyone who has ever cycled through the French Massif Central knows that the Auvergne leaves a lasting impression.” MYBIKE travel writer Dr Heinz Klausmann
Setting off from Clermont-Ferrand
It all starts here. Romain Bagne from the “Vélodrome” bike shop adjusts the modern Sunn e-bike hire model with the calm of a surgeon, then looks up and grins: “Allons-y.” And off we go. After just a few kilometres, it becomes clear what cycling in a volcanic region entails: it’s uphill. Up and up again. From the viewpoint above the capital of the Puy-de-Dôme department, the panorama unfolds – the imposing cathedral built of black lava stone, the sprawling factory buildings of Michelin, the world-famous tyre manufacturer and the region’s largest employer. Over the ‘Côtes de Clermont’ ridge, we cycle through the sleepy villages of Blanzat and Malauzat, before Volvic comes into view – famous for its mineral water, discovered in 1889 by Jean Legay-Chevalier, whose history is brought to life by the ‘Volvic O’rigines’ exhibition. Then come the gravel tracks. Steep. The picnic up at Château Tournoël makes every drop of sweat worthwhile. Afterwards, a stretch of trail awaits that pulls no punches: a desolate volcanic landscape, challenging terrain – ‘e-MTB+’ mode is a must. And right in the middle of it all, as if spat out by the forest, a lava stone sculpture by the sculptor Thierry Courtadon – rough, dark, perfectly at home in this landscape. We pass another installation just before the Vulcania theme park. Romain calls out the names of the wooded volcanic cones along the way. I focus on the path, which winds its way through meadows of flowering grasses and grazing sheep. Nature follows its own course here – and it’s magnificent. Past the Puy de Côme, up to the Col de Ceyssat, then our first evening at the ‘Archipel des Volcans’ in Laschamps. On the hotel terrace, I enjoy the view of the paragliders dancing in the evening sunlight around the towering Puy de Dôme. It couldn’t have been a better way to end the day.
Geology up close
“You’re in luck!” Katrin Adler laughs as she says this, and she means it. “The mountain is shrouded in clouds for more than half the year.” Not today, though. The Puy de Dôme is showing itself at its best, and the “Panoramique des Dômes”, the electric rack-and-pinion railway, carries us up more than a thousand metres in altitude to the 1,465-metre-high summit. On the panoramic trail, the guide explains what happens meteorologically up here: the high mountains intercept the Atlantic clouds; it rains to the west, whilst to the east, on the leeward side, it is milder and drier. But first, a look back at the Earth’s history. Millions of years ago, the Eurasian Plate expanded; the Earth’s crust split open – a rift valley formed, magma rose, and with it an entire army of volcanoes. To the east lies the vast plain of the Limagne Rift Valley with its fertile soils. Beneath it, stretching north and south like a string of pearls, lies the ‘Chaîne des Puys’: around 80 green volcanic cones, each one more beautiful than the last. A UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site, and anyone who stands up here immediately understands why.
In the rain – but carrying on regardless
Sometimes the Auvergne shows no mercy. Despite the pouring rain, I set off on my bike. The iPhone mount is playing up. The ‘Puy de la Vache’ volcano crouches beneath dark clouds – as if it were taking pity on me. I’ve long since missed the turn-off onto the D5. Through the forest, back onto the narrow country road. Not a great start. But then: Randanne, Verninnes, and suddenly the crater lake ‘Lac de Servière’ at 1,200 metres – a gem in the heart of a hiking area that truly lives up to its name. The rain stops. The ride goes more smoothly. Passing the Sanadoire and Tuillère rock formations – bizarre remnants of two ancient volcanoes – we ride briskly past the crater lake Lac de Guéry and down to Le Mont-Dore – which hosted a stage of the Tour de France for the first time last year. One kilometre past the imposing thermal spa, built from black magma rock, the road branches off towards the Col de la Croix Saint Robert, which the pros will also be climbing in 2025. The mountain pass winds its way through lush pastures, 1,451 metres above sea level. Once at the top, the battery indicator reads 53 per cent. For an e-bike with an 850 Wh battery, that’s quite an achievement on this terrain. Heavy clouds shroud Mont Sancy, at 1,886 metres the highest peak in the Massif Central – today, it remains a mystery. Instead, Sophie awaits us at Lac Chambon in the ‘O’Chambon’ in the hamlet of Les Rives with a warming ‘table d’hôte’ – truffade, potatoes with Saint-Nectaire, the region’s local cheese. After a day like this, it couldn’t have been better.
Culture in the Saddle
Margarite is already there, whilst the morning sun still hangs sleepily over the hills. As a descendant of the lord of the castle, Guillaume, she guides us through the meticulously restored fortress high above Murol – and you immediately understand why generations put up their last stand here. The view over the Auvergne is breathtaking; the wind on the keep is icy. Time to set off. Seven kilometres away, the ‘GAEC du Bois Joli’ awaits on the ‘Route des Fromages d’Auvergne’. At the Chassard family’s farm, it’s all about the secret of Saint-Nectaire – and it’s as simple as it is compelling: the herbs and grasses on the high-altitude pastures give the raw-milk cheese its unmistakable character. The path leads through these very pastures up to Besse-et-St-Anastaise, a medieval village built of black lava rock – on the houses, on the walls, even in the cemetery. Here, the volcanic material isn’t just a backdrop; it’s the very foundation.
Pure driving pleasure
Lake Pavin lies at an altitude of 1,197 metres, is 92 metres deep, dark and mysterious – a genuine maars lake, formed by a volcanic eruption. The climb to the viewpoint 100 metres higher up takes some effort, but the view across to the Super-Besse ski resort is well worth the effort. A seemingly endless descent takes you through vast, flower-strewn pastures. You could ride on forever. In the remote hamlet of Compains, I refuel with a cheese and ham platter at the village pub. Then comes the inevitable climb: a gruelling ascent to the Col de la Volpilière at 1,230 metres, followed by a descent into the secluded valley of Rentières, where it gets warmer. Over 13 kilometres along the little river Ardes, I don’t meet a soul. No cars, no motorbikes, no other cyclists. Just me, the valley and the gentle murmur of the water. At Madriat, I reach the fertile Limagne plain. The route rolls gently on towards Parentignat. At the “Manoir d’Alice”, after 89.3 kilometres, the battery indicator reads 13 per cent – and I’m looking forward to a well-deserved day’s rest.
A rest day with substance
Issoire is a little gem. The picturesque old town, with its clay-tiled roofs, exudes a Tuscan charm, whilst in the centre, the Abbey of Saint-Austremoine – built around 1150 in the Romanesque style – dominates the square with quiet dignity. Right next door is the ‘Bistrot Basalte’ run by Michelin-starred chef Adrien Descouls – a high-quality lunch spot and yet another reason to make this detour. To help with digestion, Karine Hubert guides us through the ‘Vallée des Saints’ in the south-west – a two-hour walk amidst reddish-shimmering limestone formations, led by a guide with a passion for geology. The day concludes with a wine tasting at ‘Domaine Sauvat’ in Boudes. Winemaker Annie talks about the history and present-day state of winegrowing in the region. Tasting is a must!
Into the mountains
Usson, one of the ‘most beautiful villages in France’, welcomes visitors with the Romanesque church of Saint-Maurice and a quarry featuring majestic basalt columns. From the former castle of Queen Margot, a panoramic view of the Limagne plain unfolds, leaving one momentarily speechless. After a coffee on the terrace of the ‘Auberge de Margot’, I glide down to Sauxillanges. On the way to Condat-Les-Montbassier, the curtain rises. What follows is a scene of lush mixed woodland, meadows dotted with wildflowers and towering ferns – the low mountain range in all its beauty. After the ‘Les deux Frères’ viewpoint, the ferns line the path on the partly steep descent to Ambert. From there, it’s another four kilometres to today’s destination, “Moulin de Nouara” – four gruelling kilometres. By the end of the day, I’ve clocked up 1,236 metres of elevation gain. The comfortable bed comes at just the right time.
Summit climb
Today: 1,394 metres of elevation gain. But one step at a time. Early in the morning, we begin with a glimpse into the past: the ‘Moulin Richard de Bas’ on the banks of the Valeyre is the last paper mill in Europe still in operation. Since 1326, the finest paper has been produced here by hand using traditional equipment. Owner Pascal Toupin guides us through the centuries as if we were in his own living room.
After the guided tour, I meet Aurélien. He’s the mountain bike guide from the Ambert Cycling Club and is accompanying me today; he loves challenging terrain. We agree on a route that’s suitable for cycle tourists. But one thing is certain for the guide: I have to reach the highest point of the “Crêtes de Forez” mountain range. “Courage, le début est un peu difficile.” He says it with a smile that doesn’t bode well. We wind our way up through dark forests and across vast plateaus. “Pierre sur Haute”, 1,634 metres. Battery level: 48 per cent. From here, there’s only one direction: down. Oversized snow posts line the path to the Col du Béal – a silent reminder of what winter looks like here. In the bar at the top of the pass, a “Pastillade Vichy”, a local mineral drink, and then we’re off. Against the backdrop of the Chaîne des Puys, we ride effortlessly downhill towards Le Brugeron and on to Courpière, where the B&B “Ma Tranquillité” lives up to its name.
A race to the final
A constant series of ups and downs on the way back to Clermont-Ferrand – the Auvergne holds nothing back right up to the very last kilometre. Sleepy villages, castles perched on towering volcanic cones, endless fields. In Billom, Jean Jallat, chairman of the ‘Brotherhood of Pink Garlic’, initiates me into the secrets of growing and processing this perennial leek-like plant at the clubhouse. His garlic soup is his pride and joy.
The ‘Plateau de Gergovie’ provides what is, quite literally, the final highlight. From this plateau overlooking the Limagne, Vercingetorix, the Gaul, put up fierce resistance against Julius Caesar’s army in 52 BC – the ‘Musée de Gergovie’ brings this story to life. On the steep climb up to the plateau, you can really feel the Romans’ agony. Unintentionally, but effectively. From here, it’s just 14 kilometres to Clermont-Ferrand. After all these kilometres, the climb and the sights, a leisurely stroll through the bustling old town, past cafés and restaurants, is well worth it. On the terrace of the “Extrême Orient” near the Gothic cathedral built from “Pierre de Volvic”, you can bring the journey to a peaceful close. A chain of volcanoes. A journey you’ll never forget. Au revoir, Auvergne.
The GPS data for the e-bike tour through the Auvergne
The GPS data for the tour is available to download from the tour portal – free of charge for subscribers under ‘My Account’.
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General information and travel tips
Chaîne des Puys, a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site
The ‘Chaîne des Puys’ comprises around 80 volcanic peaks on the ‘Plateau des Dômes’ in the northern part of the Massif Central. Together with the ‘Faille de Limagne’ – a geological fault in the Earth’s crust – and the ‘Montagne de la Serre’, a ridge of solidified lava flows rising to over 1,000 metres, it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2018. The area brings together volcanoes of vastly different ages and of very different origins. www.chainedespuys-failledelimagne.com
Getting here
Bike hire & guided tours
Le Vélodrome, Châtel-Guyon: Well-maintained e-bikes and traditional bikes from various brands, guided off-road and road tours, a bike shop and a repair service. www.levelodrome.fr
UC2A Ambert: The cycling club, which has 230 members, organises one-day and multi-day tours for tourists, with or without a guide – including accommodation, luggage transport, meals, massages and sightseeing. www.uc2a.org/tourisme
Accommodation
There are numerous accommodation providers of all categories in the region. Here are a few examples:
Clermont-Ferrand, Break & Home, www.breakandhome.com
Saint-Genès-Champanelle, Volcans Archipelago, www.archipel-volcans.com
Chambon-sur-Lac, O'Chambon, www.ochambon.fr
Parentignat, Manoir des Rêves Sauvages, www.reves-sauvages.fr
Ambert, Moulin de Nouara, www.moulin-de-nouara.fr
Courpière, Ma Tranquillité, www.ma-tranquillite-courpiere.ohotel.fr
Places of interest
Puy de Dôme / Panoramique Des Dômes: The electric rack-and-pinion railway takes visitors up to 1,465 metres. On a clear day, it offers an unforgettable panoramic view of the entire Chaîne des Puys.
Vulcania: An amusement park centred on the theme of volcanism in the heart of the Chaîne des Puys.
Gergovie Museum: The museum on the Plateau de Gergovie documents the legendary battle of 52 BC, when Vercingetorix put up a stand against Caesar.
Muro Castle: A medieval fortress, restored with great attention to detail, offering magnificent views over the Auvergne countryside.
Moulin Richard de Bas: Europe’s last remaining working paper mill (built in 1326) on the Valeyre. Guided tours, workshops and hands-on experiences with the owner, Pascal Toupin. www.richarddebas.fr
Food & Drink – Culinary specialities of the Auvergne
Cheese (AOP-protected):
- Saint-Nectaire – semi-hard, reddish rind, slightly nutty; ‘fermier’ = raw milk from the farm
- Salers – produced exclusively on farms from raw milk, with an intense flavour
- Cantal – a hard cheese, ranging from mild to strong depending on the length of maturation
- Bleu d'Auvergne – a tangy blue cheese made from cow’s milk -
- Fourme d'Ambert – mild and creamy
Other specialities:
- Truffade – a potato dish with Saint-Nectaire, the region’s rustic comfort food
- Ail Rose de Billom – pink garlic, grown on the volcanic soils of the Limagne; a festival is held in Billom every year on the second weekend in August
Restaurants:
- Bistrot Basalte, Issoire – Michelin-starred chef Adrien Descouls, fine French cuisine
- Domaine Sauvat, Boudes – Wine tasting with winemaker Annie
- Extrême Orient, Clermont-Ferrand – Terrace by the Gothic cathedral, the perfect place to round off the evening
Art & Culture
Thierry Courtadon: The sculptor creates sculptures from black ‘Pierre de Volvic’ – the region’s volcanic rock. You come across his works as if by chance in the countryside, by the side of the path, in the middle of the forest. www.ateliercourtadon.com
Volvic O'rigines: An exhibition on the history and production of the famous mineral water, which has been known since 1889.
Industry & History
L'Aventure Michelin, Clermont-Ferrand: The museum of this global corporation tells the story of its journey from bicycle tyre pioneer to global player: the brothers André and Édouard Michelin, the first removable pneumatic tyre (1891), the first Michelin Guide (1900), and the famous Michelin Man (since 1898). Over 130 years of company history showcased in countless exhibits. www.laventure.michelin.com
Tourist Information
- Puy-de-Dôme Tourism: www.puydedome-tourisme.com
- France in general: www.france.fr/de