In the south of France, the Ardèche has carved its way deep into the rock. Kayakers from all over the world come here for its wild bends and spectacular gorges, the Gorges de l'Ardèche. Especially in summer, when the river is at its calmest and is also easy to paddle for beginners. The latter cannot be said of the lonely and wild mountain world around it. The mountains may only have mid-mountain heights, but they are criss-crossed by so-called calades: kilometre-long trails between the mountain villages that collect a lot of altitude metres in a sawtooth profile. Here are the three best trail routes through the bizarre Monts d'Ardèche!
France: The three best MTB trails in the Ardèche
Tour 1 - Col de la Croix Blanche
- Length: 49.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 1606 metres in altitude
- Difficulty level: difficult
Tour description
You don't climb higher than 900 metres on this varied tour through the foothills of the Ardèche-Cevennen. However, it is constantly up and down - you won't get very far without being in great shape. The narrow calades, the old cobbled paths between the mountain villages, take their toll, especially on the climbs, because it is very difficult to find your rhythm on the partly loose and stepped scree up to the Col del la Croix Blanche. But you should also have a good grip on your bike on this somewhat treacherous downhill terrain. Especially as there are always short, crisp counter-climbs in the way.
The landscapes of the foothills are extremely varied and characterised by terraces and stone walls. The subsoil is also constantly changing: Sometimes sharp-edged limestone, then grippy sandstone. Suddenly clay and shortly afterwards slate again. Pine forests give way to chestnut groves along the way, vineyards follow olive trees. It goes without saying that the paths also have to adapt here. You follow a permanent alternation of trails and somewhat wider forest paths. You are almost happy about the few tarmac sections because you can shake out your arms and legs for a while. Especially at the end of the tour, when the route climbs slightly back to Les Vans.
Starting point: Les Vans, car park in the town centre (Place Leopold Ollier) or on the banks of the Chassezac.
Key points: The trails are all a little more technical in between, occasionally with hairpin bends, but mostly S1 level, maximum S2. The descent from Peyre to Dépoudent requires alert senses, especially after rainfall.
Retreat: The Auberge de Peyre is located at km 30 directly at the pass of the same name on the road, a few hundred metres before the start of the trail descent. Delicious charcuterie (local sausage specialities), salad and omelette with porcini mushrooms!
Tour 2 - Bois de Païolive
- Length: 54.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 1386 metres in altitude
- Difficulty level: difficult
Tour description
In the very south of the département lie the Ardèche-Cevennen, a rugged low mountain range, but not necessarily very high. The highest point of this tour is just 558 metres above sea level, but don't let that fool you. After a few open but rocky trails through the limestone plateau of Naves, a physically demanding but technically undemanding climb winds its way towards Malbosc through a zone of former gold mines. The trail descent from the village down to the bridge over the River Abeau is well worth it. The transition into the Doulovy valley, where you pedal through old coal mines, also takes some effort. You should definitely save some energy for this, as a real highlight awaits at the end of the tour: the labyrinth of little walls and stone paths through the Bois de Païolive. This ancient forest has a certain nature conservation status due to its Mediterranean garrigue vegetation, dolmens and bizarrely shaped limestone sculptures. Bikers will need a keen eye and good stamina for this very rough up-and-down trail. Especially if your legs are already tired at the end of the tour.
Starting point: Les Vans, car park in the town centre (Place Leopold Ollier) or on the banks of the Chassezac.
Key points: The Bois de Païolive karst plateau is criss-crossed by a labyrinth of stone paths, where orientation is required - especially from the 42nd kilometre onwards. The route is pathless for a good kilometre through a dried-up stream bed.
Retreat: In Malbosc, the Bistrot de Malbosc is just right after the previous, sweat-inducing climb (18.5 km). A magnificent panoramic view of the Cévennes from the terrace, plus small delicacies for lunch - perfect! If you want to stop off later, you are sure to find a nice spot around the cosy Place de la Gare in Saint Paul le Jeune (31 km).
Tour 3 - Laval d' Aurelle
- Length: 33.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 1145 metres in altitude
- Difficulty level: difficult
Tour description
Lots of panoramic views, lots of climbing - this tour climbs up to 1200 metres, although the tour starts in Montselgues at just over 1000 metres. But once again, nothing is given to you here. The metres in altitude add up in a sawtooth profile. The route winds its way along ridge lines, which repeatedly offer open and extraordinary views of the surrounding mountain massifs.
The day begins with an exciting trail descent to the mountain village of Petit Paris, which lies in the middle of the bizarre granite chaos of Montselgue. This is immediately followed by another narrow trail with a view of the rocky peaks in the Drobie river valley, then an old Roman road and finally the tough ascent to the Col de la Croix de la Femme Morte. The descent to Laval d'Aurelle may not be particularly technically challenging, but the sweeping views over the mountain ridges are a real treat. The long and tough climb from Ourlette requires well-filled energy reserves, as does the S1 singletrail to Chalendas.
Starting point: This tour starts in Montselgues, around 25 kilometres northwest of Les Vans.
Key points: The trails and forest tracks are often stony, sometimes slightly blocked up to a maximum of S2. From Pradon (km 29.5), a steep climb awaits up to the Col de Teste Rouge. If you don't like it anymore, take the small road.
Retreat: Bolt through, as there are no refreshment stops. Or you can take a picnic in your rucksack. There are plenty of beautiful viewpoints along the way. At the end of the tour, you can enjoy a cold beer and a snack at the Gîte La Fage in Montselgues!
The Ardèche MTB region
The Ardèche is a French department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. It is located in the south-east of France and is named after the river Ardèche, which flows through the region. The Gorges de l'Ardèche are particularly famous, attracting thousands of kayakers in summer. However, in addition to kayaking, the rugged mountain landscape is even better for hiking and biking - something that not many people realise. That's why you often have the many paths and panoramas to yourself! Historic villages and prehistoric sites characterise the cultural landscape, while the regional cuisine delights with chestnuts, incredibly tasty cheese specialities and excellent wine.
The Monts d'Ardèche are geographically part of the French Massif Central and are characterised by chestnut, pine and oak forests. Stone walls and terraces ("faïsses") criss-cross this mountain world, as do challenging nature trails, rough cart tracks and stony forest tracks, whereby the transitions between the different types of paths are quite fluid. "Calades" is the name given to the ancient and often very steep connecting paths between the mountain villages. Their massive stone pavements have been weathered over the centuries and are often difficult to navigate. The topography of the rugged mountain world with its gorges is also quite a challenge: the ups and downs require good fitness, a high level of concentration and attentive riding technique. It's a good thing that you keep passing through winding villages and small hamlets where you can refill your water bottles in the fountains and stop off in cosy bars.
Arrival
The shortest route from Munich to Les Vans is via Zurich and Lake Geneva through northern Switzerland. Distance 931 kilometres. You need to plan around 10 to 11 hours for this journey. Tip: In France, you can save yourself the toll motorways. The country roads are almost as well developed and do not charge tolls.
Overnight stay
If you are travelling with a motorhome, you will find great campsites, such as the Domaine de Chênes near Les Vans (tours 1 and 2). Info: domaine-des-chenes.fr
Restaurant tip in the immediate vicinity: Auberge de Chanaleilles, creative regional cuisine in a very pleasant atmosphere.
Chambre d'hôtes, i.e. private accommodation, are ideal for those who prefer camping. Here, all guests dine at a communal table. Many chambre d'hôtes offer an evening meal at a fixed price. The gîtes are usually cheaper. Tip for tour 3: La Fage in Montselgues with brand new double and multi-bed rooms.
Info: ardeche.gite-lafage.com
Bike shop and guided tours
The guides at Cycles AMC7 know every stone in the area. The shop in Chandolas (44 rue du Chassezac, 07230 Chandolas) offers bike hire and a repair service.
Info: amc7.com
Maps & Literature
Topographical hiking maps of the IGN, Série Bleue (1:25000), numbers: 2839 OT, 2838 OT, 16.90 euros each. Hiking guide "Cevennes - Ardèche": very well researched hiking guide. Rother Bergverlag, ISBN978-3-7633-4323-2
What not to miss in the Ardèche:
Grotte Chauvet 2 Ardèche
The spectacular cave, discovered in 1994, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains the oldest cave paintings found to date. They are an incredible 36,000 years old. In order to preserve them, meticulous attention must be paid to the climate in the cave. Unfortunately, it is therefore not possible to visit the original at the Pont d'Arc. However, a walk-in copy of the original has been created for visitors: the "Grotte Chauvet 2 Ardèche". Here you can walk along footbridges through the mountain and admire the best paintings from the Stone Age. These include a 12-metre-long fresco depicting 92 animals in full motion. And the animals that lived in this area 36,000 years ago include lions, mammoths, giant deer and woolly rhinoceroses. Ticket reservation: grottechauvet2ardeche.tickeasy.com/en
Kayaking: If you're already here, you really shouldn't miss it: paddling down the Gorges de l'Ardeche gorge in a kayak! After all, the region is famous for water sports. The best thing to do: plan a two-day tour and spend the night in the Gournier bivouac in the gorge halfway down. Tip for kayak beginners: Bike first, then paddle, your arms will thank you! Hire and guided tours: canoe-ardeche-petitmer.com
General information: Further accommodation and everything you need to know about the region can be found at: ardeche-guide.com
The district report from the Monts d'Ardèche
As a road construction engineer, Manuel has spent almost two decades paving over the country. "Twenty years building high-speed railway lines, motorways and bypasses," he says. "Always new projects, always more traffic. And concreting over more and more countryside - at some point, that went against the grain." That's why everything is different now. Manu, 45 years old, born in the Vosges mountains in Alsace, French mother, Spanish father, stands on a bare mountain ridge in the south of France, where the lonely Monts d'Ardèche merge into the even lonelier Cevennes. All around: pure nature, magnificent views, an intense scent of juniper and a few shaggy sheep grazing a hundred metres below our location.
Manu's bike leans against the weathered trunk of an old oak tree. He screws a metal sign into the wood: "Grande Traversée" is written on it, a mountain bike route across the Monts d'Ardèche. We have already crossed this route several times today. Manu has, of course, cycled the entire tour, every single one of the 315 kilometres. "This is my new life," explains the Frenchman, grinning with satisfaction. "My new home." He has been coming to the mountains of the Ardèche for seven years, and two years ago he quit his secure job as a road construction engineer. He now works as a mountain guide. When he's not out on foot or mountain biking with customers, he marks out new bike trails on behalf of the Monts d'Ardèche Regional Park or maintains part of the local hiking trail network: "I'm responsible for a good 200 kilometres of trails here," he says. But that's not enough for him. Next year, Manu wants to open a bike shop in the small town of Les Vans, as there is a demand: "More and more bikers are discovering the mountains of the Ardèche." This is due to the fact that there are more and more signposted bike routes. Fortunately, they are still anything but overcrowded: We meet perhaps a dozen or so bikers along the way. On three days ...
The typical calades were laid between the mountain villages several centuries ago. The paths still exist, but their massive stone pavements are weathered and jumbled.
By now, Manu knows every rock, well, not quite: the ridges around Montselgues are littered with huge, rounded granite boulders, so even my local guide can lose track. Our trail winds its way downhill along the edge of the sea of rocks - and Manu can hardly be stopped, neither on the descent along the panoramic path to Laval d'Aurelle, nor when raving about his adopted home. "The variety is incredible," he summarises in the evening after the tour over a glass of refreshingly cool rosé wine: "There are no jumps, no bends, just natural trails.
We take the trails as they are and adapt to the conditions, not the other way round. But you need good stamina to still have fun on the trails at the end of a long day of touring." No, the trails of the Monts d'Ardèche really have nothing to do with downhill spectacles in bike parks or clean flow trails. In this ancient cultural landscape, we have to work for every metre, both uphill and downhill. The narrow calades, as the old paths between the villages are called, take their toll. Their massive stone paving has become somewhat disorganised over the centuries. We have to concentrate fully to find the right line between the steps, landings and huge potholes.
Many of the villages we pass through look exactly as they did a hundred years ago: closely packed stone houses, narrow alleyways and always a cool fountain in the centre of the village where we can refill our empty water bottles. The landscape is characterised by chestnut, pine and oak forests, criss-crossed by low stone walls and terraces called "faïsses". However, fewer and fewer people today want to do the hard work on the terraced mountain slopes, says Manu: "That's why many of these old orchards and fields are overgrown. But elsewhere we see well-tended chestnut plantations or freshly planted vineyards.
The next day, we are also intoxicated by the metamorphosis of the landscape: we start off between olive groves and lavender fields, fight our way up narrow paths covered with a kind of sharp-edged limestone shards and after a while reach the scrubby high plateau of Naves. A short break to catch our breath, then it's downhill again through lush flowering meadows one hill further on. Finally, we plunge into a resin-scented pine forest, chase along fast paths on sandstone with a good grip and shortly afterwards sweat the remaining minerals out of our bodies as we climb up a crazy steep forest track towards the mountain village of Malbosc ...
"Ah" - finally a break in the village bar! Cool down and enjoy the Cévennes panorama in peace and quiet.
"I particularly like the descents on the second half of the tour," Manu announces as we pay for the next trail section, a bumpy calade of slate slabs down into the Abeau Gorge, at the end of which an ancient stone bridge leads over the deeply incised river. Immediately afterwards, the route climbs again: 300 moderately steep metres in altitude. This time through sparse pine forest and right through the abandoned coal mines in the Vallée du Doulovy. The Monts d'Ardèche are simply not available without this constant up and down: My thighs are burning, the sun is slowly sinking towards the horizon and I'm already squinting longingly at the kilometres on my speedometer - how much further might it be?
But the after-work beer will have to wait a while longer. Manu seems to be just getting into his stride. Shortly before the end, he pulls his real ace out of his sleeve: the Bois de Païolive. The narrow, labyrinthine paths here wind for kilometres through bizarrely weathered limestone rocks. Some of these stone colossi are riddled with holes like a Swiss cheese. But the paths themselves are also peppered with boulders and rubble. This makes travelling a tightrope act, as the bushes and shrubs that sprout lightly from the edge of the path, the Mediterranean garrigue, are studded with rather biting thorns. But gradually we reach an evergreen holm oak forest. This takes away a little more of the dwindling daylight, but at least nothing gets caught in our clothes. When we finally emerge from this forest, Manu stops: the view is gigantic, with the deep gorge of the Chassezac below us.
"That's what the region is actually famous for: the gorges of the Ardèche, Beaume and Chassezac rivers. They are the reason why so many kayakers come here on holiday," says Manu. "Eighty per cent of all visitors want to paddle down the Gorges de l'Ardèche." The famous limestone gorge in the last third of the river is often so crowded in summer that there are real traffic jams at the rapids, Manu knows. A problem that we definitely don't experience here in the surrounding mountains. We have a free ride here for days on end. The trails are almost deserted. The fact that the Ardèche offers much more than just white water doesn't seem to have got around yet. And that's actually a good thing!
