"Okay, that was probably nothing." Bertrand plucks a tuft of grass from the derailleur and a handful of burrs from his hair, grins - and pushes on. Rotten branches crack, bramble thorns scratch red lines in our calves.
It can happen that you end up in the middle of nowhere in search of perfect trails. Or in impenetrable undergrowth. No, not an issue, especially as Bertrand has been guiding us along trails all morning that we would never have found on our own. And his territory has plenty of single trails to offer. An impressive volcanic landscape towers up in the centre of France: the Massif Central. There are not just a few volcanoes in the landscape here, but a few hundred old fire-breathers that have long since gone up in smoke.
The GPS data for these three MTB tours from the Massif Central area guide can be found in the download area below:
- TOUR 1: Around Mont-Dore (45.7 km 1372 m elevation gain 4:30 h)
- TOUR 2: From crater to crater (59.4 km 1109 m elevation gain 5:30 h)
- TOUR 3: Puy de Chateauneuf (48.9 km 1160 m elevation gain 5:30 h)
"The Chaîne des Puys alone consists of over 80 volcanoes," explains Bertrand as we stop on a hill where the view of this 60-kilometre-long chain of volcanoes on the horizon takes our breath away.
The Chaîne des Puys, the mountain range of craters, is a mighty bulwark of cones, domes and cathedrals. "It is impossible for me to give you an idea of the splendour of the sight," wrote the German geologist Leopold von Buch, who was one of the first volcano explorers to roam the Auvergne in 1802. Full of awe at the solidified forces of nature, he did try: "The cones rise above the continuous row of mountains, as in Rome the multitude of domes rises above the city, and as there St Peter's dome destroys all the others around it, so here the Puy de Dôme pushes all the cones down deep below its height." Bertrand knows that the last volcanic eruptions in the Massif Central took place around 8,000 years ago. Nevertheless, knowledge of volcanism seems to be part of general education here: "But what does extinct mean? I'm fascinated by the fact that people were already living here when the volcanoes were still active." Modern geologists are of the opinion that the dormant monsters could well awaken again. Even if there is currently nothing to suggest this. The lava flows and the subsequent ice age have left behind a rugged landscape that is not only an Eldorado for volcanologists, but is also perfect for long bike tours. The view sweeps far across the scenery: Between the lush green peaks lie wide meadows, heathlands and a shaggy forest pelt, beneath whose treetops hot springs bubble and mountain streams foam in cascades over cliff edges. In addition, old castles, villages and volcanic lakes seem to have been painted there.
Bertrand forges ahead. The terrain is initially undulating and gentle. But after the village of Courbanges, Bertrand suddenly branches off onto a path that first zigzags wildly over bizarre basalt formations and then plunges steeply downhill into a valley. It's just as well that the forest floor at the bottom provides a good grip. At Lac Pavin, a circular crater lake that owes its existence to a rendezvous between groundwater and a volcanic gas explosion funnel, Bertrand disappears into an inconspicuous breach in the undergrowth. A narrow path now divides the forest thicket and leads directly to a huge ring of tuff rock: the basin of a hidden crater lake. Pumped full of happy hormones, we cruise along the trail, which now balances under gnarled oaks on the lake embankment.
"The best thing about the Massif Central is that the landscape and the routes are constantly changing," says Margriet, the landlady of the small guesthouse Les Camelias in the mountain town of Mont-Dore, later that evening. You can really burn off energy between the green craters without getting bored. And for days on end. Margriet serves us a sumptuous menu and then joins us at the large table. She and her husband Erwin have been running the guesthouse in the spa town at the foot of the Puy de Sancy for ten years. The architecture, like everywhere else in the area, is characterised by the use of typical regional black lava rock. The two Dutchmen met at the turn of the millennium while biking in the Andes: "Our passion for cycling brought us to the Massif Central. Back then, we were looking for a new home that offered plenty of good road bike routes as well as single trails." Et voilà! Margriet nods towards the kitchen window, where the almost 1900 metre high Puy de Sancy towers above everything. The sight of the highest mountain in the Massif Central with its furrowed lava slopes had already made our mouths water on arrival. But Margriet has to disappoint us: "Unfortunately, the Sancy is a bike-free zone - a nature reserve." But there are plenty of great routes here.
As if to prove it, Chriss, a mate of Bertrand's, is at the door the next morning. He wants to show us the routes around the volcanoes of the Chaîne des Puys, which we had only seen from a distance the day before. "Don't worry, we're not going to ride up all 80 volcanoes," he jokes and loads us and our bikes into his rickety bus. In Zanières, a seemingly deserted hamlet between fields and cow pastures, the tour begins in the most unspectacular way imaginable. Downhill on gravel, buzzards and falcons glide over wheat fields, and the Puy de Dôme, the king of volcanoes with its characteristic dome shape, looms in the distance. "That's where we're going today," announces Chriss. There are ancient menhirs along the way: "From the Neolithic Age," explains Chriss as we drive past, but we immediately think of Obelix and his menhirs. That's not far-fetched either, because the Celtic Avernes actually settled in the Massif Central. A rebellious people who once rose up against the Roman conquerors under the leadership of Prince Vercingetorix. So there is plenty of history within the first few metres. But where are the trails? As soon as you think about it, the piste turns into a flow trail, which only spits us out a few kilometres later on the shores of Lac d'Aydat. Trails and tracks now alternate in rapid succession - although some of the forest tracks are so littered with rocks and criss-crossed by gullies that they are more like two-track trails.
In the middle of the Chaîne des Puys, one crater follows the next. The finest trails meander between them, which we have to ourselves most of the time. The few hikers we meet step aside and cheer us on: "Allez! Allez!" Only cattle are plentiful here. The reddish-brown Salers cattle with their long, curved horns. "They provide the milk for our Saint Nectaire," enthuses Chriss. The cheese, made from fresh raw milk, matures for three months in volcanic tufa caves. Only then does it develop its typical grey mould crust. But before we can think about the culinary delights, the trail circles around the green crater hole of the Puy de Vichatel and then winds its way down its flank. We stop for lunch at the crater of the Puy de la Vache. Surrounded by red volcanic scree, Chriss serves us homemade chocolate cake. Crickets chirp and the sun-heated rocks lull us to sleep. Now for a nap! But the ascent to the Puy de Dôme still awaits. "Unfortunately, the paths to the summit are closed to bikers," regrets Chriss. "They don't even let racing cyclists up there." Yet the most striking volcano in the massif has long since written road cycling history: Until 1988, Tour de France stages even ended on the 1465 metre high mountain. But in 2012, the route of the iconic road was used for the construction of a cog railway.
Fine, we'll just circle the Puy de Dôme halfway up. Chriss stops on the mountain saddle between the Small and Large Suchet: "I love this place. You can see twenty volcanoes from here." The view sweeps over the Puy Pariou to the city of Clermont-Ferrand, deep down in the valley, where the Michelin tyre factories have their headquarters. And there in the north, behind the hilltops, is the village of Volvic: "It takes forty years for rainwater to bubble up again as volcanic spring water," says Chriss and grins: "The water you're drinking today fell from the sky when I was born!"
Speaking of falling from the sky - the clouds above our heads seem to have been waiting for this cue. No problem for Chriss. Rain jacket on, and off we go, because now it's time for his favourite trails!
BIKE Touring author, Patrick Kunkel:
"Is there something going on? I've seen the really impressive chain of green volcanic craters dozens of times - only from the motorway. Now we could finally test the trails of the Massif Central, and: Yes, it's really possible!"
You can read this article or the entire BIKE 5/2017 issue in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or buy the issue in the DK shop reorder:
AREA HIGHLIGHTS
Small towns and villages have settled in the valleys of the volcanic chains. With typical French infrastructure: a boulangerie for café au lait and croissants for breakfast, quaint bars for a snack and restaurants for a three-course meal in the evening.
GENERAL INFORMATION
The precinct
The dimensions of the French Massif Central are not exactly modest: The low mountain range covers around 15 per cent of French territory and stretches across six French regions. In addition to the Cévennes, the area in Auvergne is particularly interesting for bikers, where the mountain range is formed by hundreds of extinct volcanoes, known as "puys" in French. It is the largest volcanic landscape in Europe, characterised by forests, vast cattle pastures, volcanic lakes and waterfalls - criss-crossed by a network of fine single trails. The Chaîne de Puys alone, the Puys mountain range, consists of over 100 huge, burnt-out explosive bodies. The neighbouring mountain massif of the Monts Dore reaches a height of 1886 metres with the Puy de Sancy. And because the Massif Central is one of the least populated regions in France, you usually have the many routes to yourself. Nevertheless, there are no problems with catering en route. There is a boulangerie or bar in almost every village.
Travelling: the best way to get there is by car. Clermont-Ferrand (alternatively Lyon) can also be reached by long-distance bus, train or plane. Then continue by hire car.
Best touring time
The climate in the Massif Central is rather harsh and characterised by humid Atlantic air masses, which tend to rain here, especially in spring. The best time to visit for trail tours is therefore from the end of May to October.
Guided tours
Day, weekend and multi-day tours are offered by Chriss Méjean-Lapaire, tel. 0033/632/828434. www.triplebuses.com
Bike shops / hire
- Centsix Snowscoot-VTT, bike hire and workshop, 43 Avenue du Sancy, Résidence Le Buron Bât H, 63610 Super Besse, tel. 0033/463/800281, www.centsixsnowscoot.fr
- La Bourboule Vélo Plus, workshop (bike hire), Chemin du Limanger, 63150 La Bourboule, Tel. 0033/682/733940
Maps / Literature
- The hiking map is best suited for tours: IGN Top 25, série bleue: "Massif du Sancy", No. 2432 ET and "Chaîne des puys", No. 2531, scale 1:25000, price: 12 euros.
- "Auvergne. Cévennes, Massif Central", published by Reise Know-How, 2013, price: 19.50 euros. 420 pages, very detailed, good general travel tips
Accommodation
- Le Mont-Dore: Pension Les Camélias, 6 Avenue de Clermont, 63240 Le Mont-Dore, www.lescamelias.eu
- Besse: Hôtel Le Sancy, Place Alfred Pipet, 63610 Besse et St-Anastaise, www.hotel-sancy-besse.com
SCENE SPECIALS
Bike park
- The bike park in Superbesse is not to be missed. The cable car covers the 500 metres in altitude from the valley station to the summit of the Perdrix in around five minutes. There are then six different downhill runs to choose from (18 kilometres in total). The downhill speed record on the black World Cup slope is 68 km/h. The park is open between the end of June and mid-September. A day ticket for the cable car costs 21.50 euros for adults and 10.80 euros for children. There are bike shops and hire facilities at the valley station. Info: www.sancy.com
- Bike school: Ecole VTT MCF, Nicolas Rouveix, Tel. 0033/684/740818.
Capucin climbing park
Well-dosed thrills on a rest day can be found at the climbing spot on the Capucin above Mont-Dore. In addition to a few freely accessible climbing rocks, the Via Ferrata du Capucin offers quite relaxed climbing on a steel cable. The 400 metre long via ferrata climbs 222 metres in altitude. Entry costs 5 euros without and 15 euros with rental equipment. The tour with a guide costs 35 euros. Info: www.montdoreaventures.com
Culture
Castles, churches, cheese dairies,the castle (Château) of Murol (Tour 3) is one of the most important medieval fortresses in France and is well worth a stop, as is a tour of the historic centre of Murol. A few kilometres (and a nasty climb) further on is the village of St. Nectaire with a Romanesque church that is well worth a visit. It's best to pack some food for the road here, as the famous Saint Nectaire cheese comes from here and is produced at the Ferme de Bellonte cheese dairy, among other places. www.st-nectaire.com
Food and drink
The cuisine of Auvergne is rich, flavourful and rustic. The truffade, for example, a kind of Auvergne farmer's breakfast in which fried potatoes with bacon and garlic are pan-fried with a mixture of young Salers cheese and crème fraîche, provides a good energy boost. Pounti, a type of meatloaf that is lightly fried when sliced, is also a popular and often served dish. Potée Auvergnate is a stew with savoy cabbage, various vegetables and smoked meats and sausages. The region is particularly famous for its cheeses: There are five major cheeses with a protected designation of origin in Auvergne: Cantal, Bleu d'Auvergne, Fourme d'Ambert, Salers and Saint-Nectaire.
General information
- Atout France: www.de.rendezvousenfrance.com
- Auvergne Tourism: www.auvergne-tourismus.de
