Vennbahn cycle path and EuroVelo 5: On excellent cycle paths through Wallonia
Sven Bremer
· 27.03.2024
Christoph Hendrich celebrated his tenth birthday this summer. And he was as happy as a ten-year-old is when he gets a Playstation for his first birthday - and a mountain bike to boot. However, it wasn't Hendrich's own birthday and certainly not his tenth. The man is 40 years old, and he was happy about the tenth birthday of the Vennbahn, one of the longest and most beautiful railway cycle paths in Europe.
Travelling on a four-star cycle path and the cycle route of the year 2023
The Vennbahn is not only a gift and a veritable reason for joy for its project manager Hendrich, but also for anyone who loves a relaxed ride - on almost perfect paths through a highly varied landscape. The former railway line, which was built in the 1880s and closed in 2001, runs from Aachen through the High Fens in East Belgium and ends in Troisvierges in Luxembourg. As beautiful as it may be there, we decided to cycle along the Vennbahn to Sankt Vith and then turn off towards the Ardennes - onto EuroVelo 5. The section in Belgium has been named European Cycle Route of the Year 2023. And the Vennbahn was recently once again awarded four out of five stars by the ADFC - very few long-distance cycle routes receive such a good rating.
Soon after the start in Aachen, we agree that we would have awarded five stars. The route leads through dense mixed forests. Small streams and even waterfalls babble and rush down the slopes, the Rur meanders in numerous loops through the valley. If you are travelling early in the year, you will experience the unique daffodil blossom of East Belgium, which bathes the gently undulating hilly landscape in a bright yellow. We are on tour in May, most of the daffodils have faded, but the dandelions are springing up and flanking the Vennbahn, while the foothills of the High Fens form the backdrop just a few turns of the pedals further on. The High Fens is an unspoilt moor and heathland landscape that is unique in Central Europe and can otherwise only be found in more northerly latitudes or at much higher altitudes. The high moor is part of the High Fens-Eifel Nature Park, and beavers, lynxes and even wolves have reintroduced themselves there.
More hill than mountain
We meet up with Christoph Hendrich at the Brasserie Belgium Peak Beer, the highest beer brewery in Belgium - just a few pedal strokes away from the Signal de Botrange, Belgium's highest mountain at 694 metres. Well, it's more of a hill than a real mountain. In general, the landscape is a bit like a "Teletubbie" country, only without the brightly coloured, squeaky and slightly limited characters from the children's TV series. The green hills are also somewhat reminiscent of the Shire from The Lord of the Rings - just without the hobbits.
It is home to the German-speaking community of East Belgians, just 70,000 people in nine municipalities, and yet German is recognised as the third official language in Belgium - alongside Dutch in Flanders and French in Wallonia. It's a little strange when you're travelling through East Belgium, you never really know where you are. German is spoken in one village, French in the next hamlet. "It's funny," says Jacques, in whose garage we are allowed to shelter during a rain shower, "if you fall in love with someone from the neighbouring village where the other language is spoken, then you have to quickly learn either German or French."
Christoph Hendrich speaks perfect German, with a light, Rhenish-like singsong, garnished again and again with French words such as "voilà". "The special thing about the Vennbahn," he says, "is that it connects three countries, different cultures and languages. You cross the border 14 times, which is another thing that makes the Vennbahn so unique." And he has made up his mind: "I find the section between Küchelscheid and Sourbrodt the most beautiful. The landscape here is incredibly varied and on this section you really experience that you are travelling on an old railway line."
Like yoga on two wheels
At Sankt Vith, it's time to say goodbye to the Vennbahn. There is a little nostalgia, but this quickly fades. Because the route towards the Ardennes also leads either along small roads with little traffic or along the so-called RAVel. RAVel stands for "Réseau Autonome de Voies Lentes" and translates as "autonomous network for slow-moving traffic". Anything motorised has no place on the RAVeL, which is why it is just as relaxing to roll along as on the Vennbahn - a bit like yoga on two wheels.
But to be honest, we also made the detour because Brasserie Lupulus is not on the Vennbahn, but in Courtil - on the way to Bastogne, where we come across EuroVelo 5. Founder Pierre Gobron came up with the name Lupulus because "Humulus Lupulus" is the botanical name for real hops in Latin. And "Lupulus" literally means "little wolf". For centuries, the densely wooded region of the Ardennes was home to numerous packs of wolves. According to tradition, they once came from Slovenia, where hop growing played a major role at the time. "Voilà, that was the name of the brasserie".
During our stop, we treat ourselves to a Lupulus Blonde, brewed from Slovenian Styrian Golding aroma hops and Hallertau Magnum bittering hops, accompanied by the finest Ardennes ham and cheese specialities. Mathieu Close, Sales Manager of the Brasserie, explains: "All Lupulus beers are fermented for the second time in the bottle. This has a positive effect on the yeast aroma, flavour and product quality." Christoph Hendrich calls these first-class beers from his homeland "speciality beers". When he talks about drinking beer, it's almost as if a sommelier were lecturing on top wines from Bordeaux. Throwing down a beer without thinking, in the worst case a canned beer - that's not an option for Hendrich. He celebrates beer drinking and there has to be a suitable glass for each of the speciality beers.
Faithfully rebuilt
We roll on towards Houffalize, into the beautiful valley of the Ourthe. A beaver slowly makes its way through the river, a buzzard circles in the sky. In the shade of the church and pretty stone houses, people sit and do what they are particularly good at in Wallonia: enjoying a speciality beer or a delicious dinner. Yet almost everything here was reduced to rubble almost 80 years ago. Houffalize was also almost completely destroyed during the Second World War when the Allies repelled the German Wehrmacht's Ardennes offensive. But almost everywhere in the Ardennes, the destroyed houses were subsequently rebuilt true to the original. Bastogne stands for war like no other place in Wallonia, for immeasurable suffering and the death of many people; 20,000 US soldiers alone lost their lives in the "Battle of the Bulge" in the winter of 1944/45. Today, the Bastogne War Museum and the adjoining Mardasson Memorial are a reminder of the horrors of war.
Cycling fans tend to associate the town with the Liège-Bastogne-Liège cycling race, one of the so-called five monuments of cycling. "La Doyenne" is the oldest cycling race still held in the world and countless legends surround the one-day classic. Such as the story of the first winner Leon Houa in 1892, who had to complete the last 10 kilometres towards Liège on one leg after breaking a pedal. Liège-Bastogne-Liège is considered one of the toughest races in the world. The 260 kilometre rollercoaster ride through the Ardennes never really gets very high, but the pros do gain a total of around 4,500 metres in altitude on the so-called Côtes, relatively short but all the steeper climbs. And because we weren't really in the mood for the "torture-you-sow" department, we opted for e-bikes. Only Barbara, our fellow cyclist and our guide from Visit Wallonia, bravely fights her way up the climbs without e-assistance. We enjoy the descents together, for example the one down to La Roche-en-Ardenne. The picturesque little town with its towering castle ruins is considered the pearl of the Ardennes. It's hard to believe that hardly a stone was once left unturned in this picture-book town.
Along the Meuse
When we set off early the next morning, dense wafts of mist are wafting over the Ourthe. Starlings give their morning concert, a heron sails over the valley. A few anglers sit silently on the bank. It still seems to be too early for one of them, he is simply tipped over in front and asleep. But maybe he's had one too many speciality beers. The sun sends its first rays through the morning mist and in the old town centre of Marche-en-Famenne it is already shining from a cloudless sky. After a constant up and down, we finally roll down to Dinant on the Meuse and from there continue along the banks towards Namur.
Our journey on the Vennbahn railway and the EuroVelo ends in Namur. We take the train to Liège and then cycle back to Aachen on EuroVelo 3. While my fellow cyclists Barbara and Henning are still pondering whether and where it might be possible to buy a genuine Belgian speciality beer in Aachen, I reach deep into my panniers and pull out three bottles of Lupulus beer. It was worth the risk of smashing the bottles on the tour. We toast to the Vennbahn and EuroVelo 5, to the friendly people and, of course, to the beautiful landscape. The only thing I didn't manage to fit in my panniers were the glasses. I think Christoph Hendrich will forgive us.
GPS data for the cycle tour through Wallonia on the Vennbahn and Eurovelo 5
The GPS data for the cycle tour through Wallonia can be downloaded directly from the Delius Klasing tour portal
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General information and travel tips for the Vennbahn cycle path and Eurovelo 5
At 125 kilometres, the Vennbahn is one of the longest railway cycle paths in Europe. It leads from Aachen through a varied low mountain range landscape along the German-Belgian border through East Belgium to Troisvierges in Luxembourg. From Aachen, the route climbs steadily and gently, but hardly ever at more than two per cent. If you prefer to cycle almost completely downhill, you should start in Troisvierges (approx. 2.45 hours by train from Cologne). The route is car-free, well signposted and offers cyclists more than just the finest asphalt under their tyres: places of interest and cycle-friendly accommodation nearby are signposted, information boards provide interesting facts about the flora and fauna as well as the history of the old railway line. Numerous picnic benches invite you to take a break. Delicious regional delicacies are served in old railway station buildings, former signal boxes or in historic carriages converted into restaurants. The Vennbahn celebrated its tenth anniversary in July 2023.
EuroVelo 5 (Via Romea Francigena) runs for around 3,200 kilometres from England to Rome and from London to Brindisi on the southern Adriatic (3,900 kilometres). It crosses Belgium over a distance of almost 400 kilometres - from Geraardsbergen in Flanders via Brussels, Namur, Dinant and Bastogne in Wallonia to Martelange on the border with Luxembourg. If the long-distance cycle route in Wallonia runs along the so-called RAVeL - often also former railway lines - then it is a leisurely ride. However, there are sometimes steep climbs in the Ardennes, so leisure cyclists are better off tackling the tour by e-bike.
Hiking in the High Fens
If you want to combine the cycle tour on the Vennbahn with hikes that lead into the heart of the High Fens, we recommend the Venntriologie, which will be officially opened in summer 2023: a premium hiking trail a good hundred kilometres long through the middle of the nature park in the German-Belgian border region.
Further information at: ostbelgien.eu/hiking/venntrilogy
Arrival and departure
From Cologne, take the regional railway to Aachen and get off at Rote Erde station, right at the start of the Vennbahn.
The bicycle parking spaces for the somewhat complicated return journey from Belgium (Namur-Liège / Liège-Welkenraedt / Welkenraedt-Aachen) cannot be reserved. The Belgian railway website (belgiantrain.be/en) only states that travellers must take the next train if the bicycle spaces are already occupied (but they rarely are). Some trains are equipped with quite comfortable bicycle compartments, while others only have a small bulky luggage compartment that has to be opened and locked by the train crew and is a real challenge, at least for e-bikers. The day bike ticket in Belgium costs €4. As an alternative to the train journey with the "Bimmelzüge" from Liège, you can get back on your bike and cycle around 60 kilometres back to Aachen through the Herve region on EuroVelo 3.
Overnight stay
- Bütgenbach, Hotel Bütgenbacher Hof, Marktplatz 8, 4750 Bütgenbach, hotelbutgenbacherhof.com
- Houffalize, Hotel Vayamundo, Ol Fosse d'Outh 1, 6660 Houffalize, en.vayamundo.eu/houffalize
- La Roche-en-Ardenne, Hotel La Claire Fontaine, Rue Vecpré 64, 6980 La Roche-en-Ardenne, clairefontaine.be
- Profondeville, Hotel Vedette, Chaussée de Namur 51, 5170 Profondeville, hotelvedette.be
Bicycle-friendly accommodation along the cycle route has been awarded the "Bienvenue vélo" label.
Food and drink
The cuisine is inspired by neighbouring France, and indulgence is a top priority. The best French fries in the world are traditionally fried in beef fat. However, most chip shops use normal cooking oil, so they are also recommended for vegetarians and vegans. Otherwise, they don't have it easy in Wallonia: sumptuous meat dishes, often braised in beer, dominate the menus, which almost always include moules-frites, mussels cooked in white wine or vegetable stock with chips. Many restaurants along the Vennbahn rely on the "Made in Ostbelgien" brand - high-quality regional products, often certified organic: Raw milk cheese, meat from happy cows and fresh trout from the streams and rivers along the cycle route.
Culinary stations
Distillery Radermacher
Founded in 1836, Distillerie Radermacher in Raeren is the oldest schnapps distillery in Belgium. Today, the finest spirits are distilled here in the fifth and sixth generation: Fine whiskies, various types of rum, liqueurs and gin, of which we were able to sample the highly recommended Clementine version. Attached to the distillery is the Restaurant 1836, where traditional dishes are interpreted in a modern way. Information on the products and guided tours can be found at distillery.biz
Brasserie Belgium Peak Beer
"The beer from Belgian heights". This is how the brewery, which was only founded in 2016 not far from Belgium's highest mountain, the Signal de Botrange, advertises its products. And the beers brewed there by a group of young beer enthusiasts definitely meet the highest standards. Blonde, Brune, Triple or Peak Mirtylle (with fresh blueberries) and even more so the Peak Grand Cru promise pure beer enjoyment. peakbeer.be/home
Lupulus
The beers with the cute little wolf (Lupulus) in the logo are definitely among the best beers in Belgium. Founder Pierre Gobron began brewing beer back in 1982 in his Achouffe brasserie, which he sold to Duvel in 2004. Since 2007, the senior has been brewing together with his sons in the small hamlet of Courtil. The Blonde, the Hopera, a hop-accentuated pale ale, as well as the organic-certified Organicus are selling like hot cakes, so the family business is expanding once again to meet the demand for first-class speciality beers produced according to traditional brewing methods. lupulus.be
Maison Bouillon & Fils
An institution in the Ardennes. Homemade pâtés, various sausage specialities and, of course, the finest Ardennes hams smoked over beech and oak chips are sold in the traditional family business in La Roche-en-Ardenne. maison-bouillon.be
Restaurant tip
Café de la Gare
Small, cosy, unpretentious and yet refined. The Café de la Gare serves first-class Walloon cuisine, but also international dishes such as osso buco or an excellent cassoulette. If you're wondering about the maritime ambience so far from the ocean, the chef Jean Boreux was a professional diver off the coast of Marseille in a previous life. trouvetonresto.be
Maps
Cycling map of the ADFC, Belgium, Wallonia, scale 1:150,000, 9.95, bike-book-maps.com
The regional RAVeL maps (Province de Liège, Province de Namur and Province de Luxembourg) are available at the local tourist information centres.
