At last, EU taxpayers' money has been invested wisely. After several years of construction, a unique project is now complete. The route of the spectacular Dolomite railway, once celebrated as a small wonder of the world, is finally free of steam horses. The panoramic route through the world of the White Mountains is now reserved exclusively for cyclists and signposted as the "Long Path of the Dolomites" all the way down to Belluno. From there, cyclists follow the tried and tested Via Claudia to Venice. Hardly any traffic disturbs the enjoyment of nature. By the time we pass Cortina in high spirits, the ride is already more than 20 kilometres downhill. But there is no end to the fun in sight. The day's destination, Pieve di Cadore, is still a good 30 kilometres away and there is no ascent to be expected until then.
Italy is developing into a cycling paradise
We quickly learn that crossing the Alps is not just a sweaty endeavour. Three days ago, we had started on the sunny side of the Alps. Sterzing is the ideal starting point for this tour, as this is where the section of the "Cycle Path of the Sun" begins, which will connect the Brenner Pass with Rome in the future. Italy, once a traffic-ridden nightmare for all cycle tourists, is gradually developing into a true cyclist's paradise. The cycle path follows the course of the wild Isarco off the road, but although it always goes downstream, strangely enough it is not only downhill. But we have to get used to climbs anyway. The Dolomites cannot be conquered completely without sweat. The mountains close together in the Sachsenklemme area. We are always cycling on historic ground. The freedom fighter Andreas Hofer also travelled here and even Napoleon stopped by. At the height of the fortress of Franzensfeste, which fortunately has never made sense, we turn up into the Pustertal valley. Here, too, the South Tyroleans have built a cycle path. The fine ribbon of tarmac and the magnificent landscape mean that we hardly feel the steady climb up to Bruneck.
The next day, the ascent is even steeper. We don't miss the detour to the legendary Pragser Wildsee lake. Surrounded by mountain giants, the water shines like a green diamond. The real adventure begins in Toblach. We set off early so that we can enjoy the royal stage to the full, because the highlights are never-ending. We enjoy our first cappuccino in front of an overwhelming panorama on the terrace of the café directly on Lake Dobbiaco. Soon the shore is besieged by bathers, but in the cool of the morning we still breathe in the silence of the mountains. Our narrow tyres are a little heavy on the gravel railway track. The gentle incline takes extra energy. "The Three Peaks are just around the corner," says guide Anke, skilfully motivating us. A little later, the sight of the much-photographed postcard mountains finally takes our breath away. It's almost surreal to be travelling through such a landscape by bike. But the next highlight is just around the corner. Monte Cristallo stands like a mighty barrier in front of the valley. There seems to be no easy way through.
Without extreme gradients, but with unforgettable views, the cycle path leads along the route of the old Dolomite railway through the heart of the White Mountains.
But the old railway line makes the almost impossible possible. Mighty bridges span a deep valley, tunnels pierce the white rock. We glide through a fairytale landscape on our bikes. Cycling couldn't be more beautiful. Only 50 kilometres later is the long descent over for today. "But tomorrow," Anke promises us, "it will be mostly downhill again in the morning." From Pieve di Cadore, the cycle path becomes a mostly disused road. We cycle through deserted villages, past abandoned petrol stations and enjoy a black espresso in an original Italian bar. Ever since the motorway was finished, everything here has sunk into a deep sleep. We are more than grateful for this.
A touch of Venice
Shortly before Belluno, the narrow valley opens up. We can already feel a hint of Venice. The wealthy families of the seafaring city liked to spend their summer holidays in the hills between Belluno and Feltre. Their 17th-century residences still stand today as swanky villas. Here, even Hollywood stars could still learn what true wealth is. We, on the other hand, are glad that we don't have to make our own way through the hilly landscape, as the metres in altitude add up too quickly to a respectable daily effort. Only those who know the route can calculate the actual effort in advance. While long-distance cyclists like to click into the Via Claudia to Venice from here, we head in the opposite direction towards the historic town centre of Feltre. The town alone is worth the journey. The next day, we enjoy another cycle route along the wild Brenta. Until recently, this bottleneck was virtually impassable for cyclists. Now a great path leads right into the heart of Bassano di Grappa. The vibrant town is the ideal end point for those who want to finish the tour by train. From here, we take the regional railway back to Trento and then on to Sterzing. However, we add another day in the historic Veneto region and finish off by popping the corks in Valdobbiadene. After all, we have something to celebrate: the Alps are behind us.
The most beautiful pictures of the Transalp through the Dolomites
The route
The impressive centrepiece is the route of the former Dolomite railway, which was converted into a cycle path at great expense in 2006. This avoids extreme gradients. This section is partly gravelled. Orientation becomes more difficult in Veneto. However, the small, hilly roads are a racing bike paradise. The difficulty of the tour is determined by the length of the daily stages.
Sterzing - Franzensfeste (Eisacktal) - Bruneck - Toblach (Pustertal) - Cortina d'Ampezzo - Tai di Cadore (Dolomites) - Belluno - Feltre (Brenta Valley) - Bassano di Grappa - Asolo - Valdobbiadene (Veneto).
>> This route is part of the Munich Venezia Alpine Crossing
GPX track
Worth seeing
The highlights of this Transalp are not cultural buildings, but unique landscapes. It leads from the old trading towns of South Tyrol through the white rocky mountains of the Dolomites to the Venetian-influenced villa landscape of the Veneto. It ends in the vineyards of Valdobbiadene, the home of Italian Prosecco.
Internet tips and information
Literature/Maps
There is no separate tour description for the entire tour. The route combines the Valle Isarco cycle path, Val Pusteria cycle path, Dolomites cycle path, Via Claudia Augusta (in the opposite direction), Brenta cycle path and racing cycle routes through the Veneto region.
The best orientation is provided by the Italian Tabacco maps or the respective areas, or the Tabacco app. We also recommend the cycle map of South Tyrol (1:100,000) from Bikeline, 5.90 euros, http://www.esterbauer.com
Recommended organisers
The editorial team was with the tour operator Alps Biketours Munich on the road. A guided tour with luggage transport, half board and overnight stays in selected hotels of a high standard. Return transfer by coach. Daily stages 42-84 km, 600-1000 m elevation gain; some stages can also be shortened.
Info: www.go-alps.de
Also as an e-bike Transalp
Info: www.go-ebike.de
Arrival
Via the Brenner motorway or by train to Sterzing; return journey by train is best from Bassano di Grappa.
Best time to travel
End of May to October. Please note: In the week around 15 August, all accommodation is booked out well in advance.
