America is located in the Dutch province of Limburg between Venlo and Eindhoven. It's a rather sleepy village with not much more than a village shop, a red-brick church and a railway crossing that chimes every ten minutes or so. Trains between the two towns mentioned pass through here at this frequency. So far, so tranquil. However, a ranger is said to have started a bike project here that has nothing to hide behind the trails on the other side of the Atlantic.
The idea that you can find a first-class biking area in this flat country is somewhat absurd. But that's what I had enticed my daughter Pauline with when I persuaded her to go on our trip to the Netherlands: "A biking holiday almost like the real thing in America". Now we're here at the start of the local trail circuit and are more excited than ever. What will it feel like, mountain biking in the Netherlands? In a country that is famous for tulips, windmills and cheese, but not at all for "mountains"! I look at my watch. "We have to be back here in three hours," I say to Pauline with a wink. "Then we have a meeting with a local who wants to tell us something about the history of the route." Her bored look betrays her thoughts: not twenty kilometres over flat land? That should be child's play! So off we go.
Three hours for a 17-kilometre lap? Never!
Halfway along the route and after what feels like two thousand bends, I'm no longer sure whether we'll make the deadline. Flat, my arse. "Change gear!" I shout to the back and just manage to squeeze over the ramp with my slightly too fat gear. For some time now, the path has followed a kind of embankment, about two metres high. These miniature dunes criss-cross the forest like waves in a carpet. But of course the path doesn't run along the top, but swings from one side to the other several times. And what does the word dune mean? That's right. The tyres roll on the sandy ground as if on cake batter, which vehemently drains the power from our legs. We have long since lost our bearings in the zigzag inferno. In between, pure flow reigns again as the trail swings gently to the next corkscrew section. The gnarled forest smells Mediterranean, heather covers the clearings in shades of purple. Watch out! Sometimes pine cones lie in the bends like chippings. More than once, my front wheel would have slipped off by a hair's breadth in the egg dance. We are downright dizzy when we finally roll out at the meeting point just in time. Wow.
Ralf van Bree is already waiting for us, dressed in a respectable work outfit. The emblem on his lapel gives him the rank of forester and ranger of the North Limburg region. But his mischievous grin at our dust-encrusted appearance betrays a certain satisfaction. "So, how did you like it?" he asks by way of greeting, although he can already guess the answer. "I can promise you, it'll go on like this for the next few days." The whole of Limburg, no, the whole country is criss-crossed by a trail network of superlatives. There is hardly a place that doesn't have at least one signposted bike route, enthuses van Bree. Most of them are regional circuits. But these spots can also be linked together with the help of a sophisticated, nationwide navigation system. Because there is no shortage of traffic-free overland cycle routes in the cycling nation.
"We managed to convince four municipalities of the merits of our trail project. And the work was worth it." Alex Peters, MTB Club Licht Verzet Nijmegen
"Once upon a time in America" could be the beginning of this fairy tale, which Ralf came up with over ten years ago. Funnily enough, the ranger wasn't even actively cycling himself at the time. "During my work in the Schadijkse Bossen nature reserve, I came across more and more bikers on the hiking trails," he tells us, pointing to the information board with the network of trails. "It didn't take long for the first conflicts to flare up." But instead of putting up prohibition signs, Ralf preferred to go on the offensive with his employer, the government. And he did it properly. After all, he wasn't interested in clearing the hiking trails for bikers, but in a separate, newly created route. "They were convinced of this concept surprisingly quickly," says the ranger. When it opened in 2013, the MTB route de Schaak was one of the pioneers in the Netherlands. Some of its many bends and loops were created out of sheer necessity. Sometimes the path winds around a badger's den, while at other points the route was designed to avoid a bird of prey's nest. "The fact that the bends are also fun is a nice side effect," grins Ralf, who has long since got on his bike to work on the project himself. And he gives us a few more route tips along the way. For example, the trail circuit through the Meuse dunes, which even leads through a national park. It has been recognised that targeted guidance of bikers leads to better protection of the remaining zones.
"We rarely see illegal trail building anymore," says Alex Peters, who we meet in Nijmegen. After the solitude in the forests and dunes, the contrasting programme in the city on the Rhine is really good for us. Before the local takes us on his home trails, we enjoy the fresh breeze by the river. We have a latte macchiato, which is called "Koffie verkeerd" in Germany, and watch the cargo ships chug past in slow motion. On the way to the trails on the outskirts of the city, we also experience the Dutch two-wheeler craze up close. Because nothing happens in slow motion on the cycle paths in the city centre. Students engage in duels on their way to university. Commuters race to work on stylish singlespeeders. Housewives manoeuvre their comfort choppers, heavily laden with shopping, through the hustle and bustle. Not to be forgotten: The pizza delivery man on his cargo bike, ringing his way through at what feels like warp speed.
The H-word should be avoided
In contrast, the trails are almost leisurely. Alex cycles through the labyrinth of bends on the Groesbeek bike route with somnambulistic confidence. No wonder, as he was involved in planning the route as a board member of the MTB club "Licht Verzet". Since March 2020, three circuits have been winding their way through the Dekkerswald forest, and a fourth is due to open soon. "It's pretty hilly here in Holland," I shout to the front and I'm completely serious. Oops, now I've slipped out the H-word. The locals supposedly recognise a tourist immediately. After all, Holland is only one of twelve provinces in the Netherlands. But Alex is relaxed. "The word Holland is easier for most people to say," says the local. "We've long since got used to it." But the mountains, okay hills, are really noticeable in Nijmegen. It goes without saying that head trail builder Patrick Jansen utilised the topography. This guru has already built over a hundred trails in the country, and his expertise has long been in demand beyond the borders. On a short descent, we meet his buddy Menno, who is volunteering to shovel a rutted passage. "Building the trail is one thing, but maintaining it is at least as important," explains the sinewy chap when the clouds of dust have settled. Nothing works without the help of clubs and volunteers, as Ralf had already emphasised at our meeting in America. Speaking of America. Pauline wants to know where the name that has aroused her curiosity comes from? Menno's answer is unexpectedly unspectacular: "The place is called 'Am Erica', which means by the heather. Why is that?"
Info Limburg
The precinct
Most of the trails presented are located in the province of Limburg in the south of the Netherlands, roughly in the triangle formed by the cities of Venlo, Eindhoven and Nijmegen. The provinces of Brabant to the west of Limburg and Gelderland to the north are also included. Another point of orientation: the river Maas and the German border run parallel along the district. The region between the towns is very rural in character. There are many narrow side roads, with villages dotted here and there in the greenery. Individual large farmsteads cultivating huge fields are typical. Topography: Although Limburg is the province with the highest mountains in the Netherlands, these are located in the southernmost tip of the country in the border triangle of the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany (Vaalserberg, 322 metres). In the touring area, individual hills in the Maas dunes and south of Nijmegen reach almost 100 metres in height. Otherwise, the country is as flat as a Dutch pancake (Pannenkoeken).
Travelling by train
The Netherlands has a dense railway network with frequent train services. The following routes/stops are relevant for the trails presented: America / De Schaak (Venlo - Eindhoven/Horst-Sevenum), Maasdünen and Nijmegen (Venlo - Nijmegen/Venray or Mook-Molenhoek). Bicycle transport is always possible, but sometimes only tolerated outside rush hours (peak times).
Overnight stay
Bike-friendly accommodation is easy to find in the number one cycling country, especially around the larger cities. Comfort class/budget from B&B to hotel. Search and book via the Limburg Tourist Office website (see Info). However, you are much more independent (and cheaper) when camping. Especially as the Netherlands is not only famous as a cycling nation, but also as a camping nation. It is usually no problem to find a pitch near the spots. The sites often also rent out small cabins or caravans. Location tips: The Nijmegen area is the perfect place to combine city and biking. Charming campsites can also be found along the Meuse. Or in the middle of nowhere, like our base camp on a farm: Camping de Sleng, Jacob Poelsweg 30, America, Tel. 0031/651729528
You can find various camping overview pages on the internet. However, many charming farm camps are not listed there! It's worth doing your own research online.
Maps
As the individual trail routes are signposted, a general overview map of the region is useful: ADFC cycle tour map NL 2, Netherlands South, scale 1:150,000.
If you are often travelling by bike in the Netherlands, you should also treat yourself to the (chargeable) Fietsknoop app for your smartphone, which, in combination with the ADFC map, guarantees perfect overland routing. This also works online (free of charge, but only in the local language).
Bike shop
Van Bergen Tweewielers, Pannenstraat 8, Groesbeek, Tel. 0031/24/3977477
General information
Visit Noord-Limburg, Raadhuisplein 16, Arcen
District highlights
Trail paradise
The three circular routes presented in detail have been specially signposted for mountain bikers and many sections have been specially built. But these dream trails are not only to be found in the province of Limburg, but all over the country. The Internet offers a complete overview with classification and GPS download.
Overloon
The site in the centre of the district has a sad history, as it was completely destroyed during one of the largest tank battles in the Second World War. After the war, a war museum was set up here as a reminder of peace and freedom. A special feature is the cycle path that runs on a bridge through the centre of the large exhibition hall. Anyone visiting the Oorlogs Museum in Overloon should bring their bike: There is a fun 32-kilometre trail circuit around the town, which is on a par with the other routes presented in terms of riding fun (see map; Download GPS track).
Nijmegen
The old Hanseatic city on the Waal, one of the three estuaries of the Rhine, is not only worth a visit for the excellent trails south of the city centre. It also offers a good opportunity to sample a few Dutch specialities: Fries, pancakes (savoury or sweet) and all kinds of sugary stuff. In the evening, people meet up on the Waalstrand for a sundowner. Also interesting: the Mook Bike Park with its three downhill trails.
Netherlands: The MTB tours of Limburg
Tour 1: America (De Schaak)
- Length: 17 kilometres
- Uphill: 50 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: easy
Opened in 2013, the trail leads around the Schadijkse Bossen forest, which is a nature reserve, in countless bends, loops and undulations. The official name of the loop is MTB Route de Schaak, but it is also known as Mountain Bike Route Horst. You cycle mostly through light-coloured forest, but also pass clearings and typical heathland. Equally typical is the sandy ground, which is more or less demanding depending on the condition. The ground on the path is usually compacted and rolls well. However, there are also numerous "deeper" sections where the energy is literally sucked out of your legs. There are no inclines in the conventional sense, but there are endless short and steep undulations. Too small for the altimeter, but big enough to cause pain over time.
Starting point
Info centre Aan de Drift at the Schadijkse Bossen forest north of America (Lorbaan 9A)
Highlights
The entire northern part of the loop, past the Schadijkser Heide. There are no real technical difficulties anywhere.
Eating and sleeping
Some accommodation and small campsites can be found in the village of America. There is also a village shop there. The Aan de Drift information centre at the starting point has a snack bar/café, but is only open at weekends.
Tour 2: Meuse dunes
- Length: 27 kilometres
- Uphill: 180 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: easy to medium
The trail (red markings) through the Maasdünen National Park is the most scenic of the three loops. In the online overview of all Dutch trails, the route is listed under the name "Bergen". There is also a green-marked route that partly crosses the German border. The dunes were formed many thousands of years ago by sediments deposited by the rivers Meuse and Rhine. You can feel that these are dunes, as there are ascents and descents through gnarled, sparse vegetation alternating with heath-like open spaces. The ground is quite sandy over long stretches. Now and again, it is so deep that you need to be able to steer and turn when crossing these small deserts. But it's great fun!
Starting point
Small car park on the eastern edge of Wellerloi (Catharinastraat/Venweg). Alternatively: the car park at the restaurant/café De Wellsche Hut, near the Weeze border crossing.
Highlights
The Reindersmeer lake in the dunes is a nice change of scenery and a great place to cool off. Side tip: The steel observation tower on the Maas (at Wellerloi) offers a great panorama.
Eating and sleeping
Wellerloi is a settlement with an ice cream parlour. Refreshment tip: the restaurant/café De Wellsche Hut halfway along the route. Top: the campsites along the Meuse.
Tour 3: Best of Nijmegen
- Length: 31 kilometres
- Uphill: 300 metres in altitude
- Difficulty: medium
With a total of four marked circuits, the area on the southern edge of the city of Nijmegen has a lot to offer. Including real hills! The downhill sections are even long enough for the neighbouring Bikepark Mook. The landscape is part of the northern foothills of the Maas dunes, but is no longer part of the national park of the same name. The route tip from local Alex Peters, who played a key role in planning the trails, is made up of sections of the "Mook" (blue) and "Groesbeek" (purple) laps. The sporty topography demands a certain amount of riding technique. Sometimes there are sudden rough climbs with roots. Or you can enjoy the centrifugal force on small serpentine descents in berms. It's almost mountainous by Dutch standards. You can find detailed information and GPS tracks for all MTB routes in Nijmegen on the Internet.
Starting point
Car park at Restaurant 't Zwaantje between Mook (Maas) and Groesbek.
Highlights
The "Traumapad" section, which literally means trauma path, alludes to the English word for protector (trauma pad). But don't worry, the small jumps on the flowing descent can be easily avoided.
Eating and sleeping
Nice refreshment stop with beer garden in Restaurant 't Zwaantje at the starting point. Further catering in Mook. Or you can extend the tour with a detour to Nijmegen.
