Wherever you find surfers out in the water, there are often great trails for cyclists to ride in the surrounding countryside too. This is certainly the case in Tarifa, on the southern tip of Spain. Here, the locals have created an extensive network of trails.
Text: Julia Schaefer
The wind is tugging wildly at my hair, repeatedly flinging it forcefully into my face. My lips taste of salt. It comes from the spray of the two seas, which crash against the large boulders to our right and left like rumbling thunder. We’re standing here on a narrow causeway at the southernmost point of continental Europe, watching for quite a while as the normally tame Mediterranean and the decidedly wilder Atlantic meet. The African coast opposite is just a milky blur today. The air is probably too salty and hazy right now. Daniel shouts something into the roar; I can’t make out a word. He laughs and tries to gesture – ah, right, we’re heading back.
As we turn round, we find ourselves looking at a very special town: Tarifa. Almost exactly a year ago, we happened to cruise through this little Andalusian town in our camper van. Back then, we only stopped for a quick coffee. But although we’re still not surfers, unfortunately, we could feel the magic of this place. It was clear to us: we’d be coming back here. Not with a surfboard, but on mountain bikes. Because the mountainous hinterland already looked incredibly exciting in the rear-view mirror.
Trails between Europe and Africa
When we finally reached Spain’s southernmost town at the end of November, together with our children and friends, it suddenly dawned on us why kitesurfers from all over the world are drawn to Tarifa. All along the coast, the sea is teeming with tiny colourful dots racing across the water at high speed and soaring into the sky time and again. Behind them, the 2,000-metre-high backdrop of the Moroccan Rif Mountains looms. You could hop on one of the ferries and be over in Africa – and thus in a completely different world – in 30 minutes. But for now, the European side seems adventurous enough to us: despite the constant wind, there are apparently local mountain bikers here who have created their own network of trails in the hinterland. Their advice beforehand was that, with our five-year-old, we’d be best off trying the flowing routes around Tarifa. The total elevation gain here would be manageable even for Valentin. For more downhill-focused experiences, including technical trails and stepped sections, we should head for the hinterland and then do a few laps at the ‘Trail Centre’. There, we’d get plenty of trail time without having to struggle with too much elevation gain.
But first we still have to find the hotel by the sea we’ve booked. Thanks to the sat-nav, we eventually find it – on La Pena beach, between two campsites, in a sort of Garden of Eden with its own access to the sea. Nobody would have expected this here in the arid south of the country. Flowers of every colour, palm trees and banana plants entwine around the house. And what’s even more convenient: the trails start almost on our doorstep. You just have to cross the coastal road and, shortly afterwards, follow the GPX track, which guides us up a gently ascending gravel track. Just under 500 metres of elevation gain, which can feel a breeze or twice as tough – depending on how kindly the Tarifa wind is treating you at that moment. In any case, the wind turbines that dominate the landscape in the town’s hinterland are whirring busily as we reach the summit of the local hill. From up here, the view stretches northwards far into the Andalusian countryside.
As promised, the Local Trail starts at the base of the first wind turbine: a red clay track that takes us on a wild ride through the macchia scrub. When dry, it’s a dream of flow and grip. But as we discover a few days later, this trail can be quite different after a few downpours: on steep sections, the rushing water washes away the stones from its ridges, whilst on the flatter stretches, mud puddles clog up the tyre tread. The otherwise smooth, flowing ride then quickly turns into a slippery rodeo. This is particularly true in the lower section, where the trail features a number of tight bends and steep drops.
Impressive: the Duna de Bolonia
A sandy path along the coastline is our route into the centre of Tarifa. Life in this little harbour town unfolds through a network of narrow alleyways. It’s great fun to stroll through the winding streets, stopping here for a café con leche and there for a few tapas. In between, you can try on a T-shirt in one of the pretty shops and stroll past the town walls, ice cream in hand, on your way to the harbour. There, the causeway between the seas leads to Isla de las Palomas, which is home to a military base and is therefore off-limits to visitors.
A few days later, we find ourselves immersed in an awe-inspiring silence: the Duna de Bolonia. We’ve loaded the bikes into the car to shuttle up to the start of the Bolonia trails and stop briefly at this natural monument on the south Atlantic coast near Cádiz. Like a whale, the 30-metre-high sand dune here pushes its way deeper into the pine forest, grain by grain. Of course, you can’t see it when you’re standing in front of it, but the strong Levante wind is constantly shaping and altering the landscape here, thereby creating a changing habitat for flora and fauna.
Perhaps that’s also why the trails around Bolonia are so varied. We can do easy loops here with the children, but we can also head off on our own along one of the more technical routes. Each trail has something different to offer. From soft and loose to technical and steep, there’s something for everyone.
“Mum, I’m hungry!” – whenever we hear that, we take the Mirlo Trail. It leads to a nearby restaurant. Sandy and flowing, it winds its way around the pine trees, but it does have its pitfalls in the form of sandy patches. If you don’t keep your hips loose and let the bike find its own way, you might well end up doing a somersault. Thank goodness it doesn’t hurt on the soft ground, and as we all know, children are quick learners.
You get the best grip here after a rain shower. But not after a storm like the one we experienced in the middle of our holiday. Torrential downpours poured down on the region for several days. The water completely washes away some of the really good trails, including the Mirlo Trail, which the children love best because of its roots and rocks, which they use as launch pads. But the locals are quick to get out their spades and are the first to restore the descent to the refreshment stop. The trail leads straight to the Justito de Copas restaurant, also known as the ‘Balcony of Punta Paloma’, because it offers a magnificent view of the sea – at least until the food arrives. Then everyone’s eyes are fixed on all the tapas on the table. Especially when it comes to the little bowls of pimientos de Patrón, pescado fresco and pulpo de Gallega. Unfortunately, after the meal we can’t simply roll back along the coast to the hotel, but have to fetch the car parked at the top of the trailhead. So it’s time to pedal back up the hill, which feels about three times as steep on a full stomach.
After a few days of tours, trails and the beach, a brief but intense spell of bad weather and some wonderful food, we have to set off on our journey home to grey November Germany. Let’s hope the summery images of the landscape in our minds will see us through the winter for a while. But first, we’re going to let the wind really blow through our hair one last time on the causeway between the two seas. After this time in Tarifa, this place between Europe and Africa seems even more magical to me. I know of few places that have everything you love within such easy reach. The mere fact that the children enjoy it so much here – so much so that they want to spend the day outdoors in nature – really delights me. That’s why there’s no doubt we’ll be back. Who knows, maybe even with an extra kite in our luggage next time.
What you need to know
In the ‘surfing capital of Europe’, everything revolves around water sports. Cyclists are still very much in the minority here. But little by little, trails, shops and tour options are springing up.
The District
The small harbour town of Tarifa is situated in Andalusia, on the Costa de la Luz, and marks the southernmost point of mainland Europe. Right on its doorstep lies the Strait of Gibraltar – the strait where the Mediterranean and the Atlantic meet, and which separates the African continent from Europe by a mere 14 kilometres. This unique geographical location acts like a wind tunnel, which is why Tarifa is, above all, a hotspot for kite and windsurfers. Unlike the rest of the Spanish coast, the beaches here are unspoilt and the hinterland is largely undeveloped. The hills behind Tarifa, which rise to heights of up to 850 metres, as well as the coastline, offer plenty of space for trails, which have been created and are lovingly maintained by the locals.
How to get there
The distance by road between Munich and Tarifa is just under 2,500 kilometres. If travelling by car, you should allow for a journey time of more than 25 hours. This is only worthwhile if you’re planning a road trip lasting several weeks, during which you’ll include several stops for cycling. The same applies to travelling by train. A direct flight from Germany to the nearest airport, Málaga, takes just three hours, by contrast. From there, it’s another two hours’ journey by bus or hire car to Tarifa (160 km).
Best time to visit
For windsurfers, the best conditions are from May to September. Although temperatures in Tarifa can reach up to 36 degrees during this period, the wind blows most consistently then. Mountain bikers, of course, don’t need the wind as much, but it does make the high summer temperatures more bearable. When the particularly strong ‘Levante’ blows in from the Mediterranean, you’re actually largely sheltered from the wind whilst out and about up in the hills. On the other hand, those who prefer the spring-like temperatures between October and April should expect rainfall, which – as happened here at the end of November last year – can sometimes be quite heavy or even stormy.
Cycling spots
Repack Bicycles: A bike shop with a top-class workshop and bikes for hire in the centre of Tarifa, Mar Adriatico, No. 4. They also know all about the most exciting bike tours, which can be booked as guided tours if required. Information: repacktarifa.com
Right nearby: FT-ProBikes: Offering top-of-the-range models from brands including Specialized for the past 10 years. Also features a workshop and excellent service. Info: fernandotorresprobikes.com
Guided enduro tours: bikingtarifa.com
Accommodation
The beaches around Tarifa are a camper’s paradise. There are five fairly unspoilt spots on the beach here:
- Rio Jara Campsite
- Tarifa Campsite
- Torre de la Pena
- Taiga Tarifa Valdevaqueros
- Camping Paloma
However, there are also hotels and guesthouses in various price ranges in the small town itself and along the coast.
We’ve booked a room at the Hotel Hurricane, just outside Tarifa. It’s a 4-star hotel with a subtropical garden, a swimming pool, an excellent breakfast and spa facilities. We can definitely recommend it. Info: hotelhurricane.com
Food and drink
There are lots of pubs and tapas bars in the town’s winding alleyways. There are also plenty of beach bars along the beach. Our favourite spots: Café 10 and Café Azul in the centre. These lovely little cafés serve a great breakfast, crêpes and delicious sandwiches.
General information
tarifa.de
The 3 trail tours from Tarifa
Tour 1: The Dunes of Punta Paloma
- Length: 27.2 kilometres
- Uphill: 346 metres of elevation gain
- Proportion of trail: 28 per cent
- Difficulty: S0–S1
Tour description
The tour: A fantastic coastal ride through the beautiful landscapes of El Estrecho Nature Reserve, west of Tarifa. The first few kilometres follow the main road, with gentle ups and downs. The route is a mix of tarmac and unpaved tracks. You then turn left towards the dunes of Punta Paloma. The road here is often blocked by sand blown in from the dunes, making it impassable. From the top of the dune, you’ll enjoy a wonderful view of Tarifa, the two seas and Africa. From here on, the route climbs steadily uphill. Just past the Justito de Copas restaurant, a gravel track branches off, climbing 200 metres through the hills before soon narrowing into a sandy trail with some fun, steep bends. The trail offers the best grip after a bit of rain. Downhill, a gravel track takes over briefly, then it returns to a trail before the eight-kilometre trail ride down to the beach begins. Short stretches of tarmac and a short, steep climb, then back along the same route.
Key passages: A few roots, a few stones – but the real danger lies in the deeper patches of sand. These often form on bends, where the tyres already have less grip. So here’s a tip: stay centred on the wheel and keep relaxed!
A moment’s reflection: The restaurants Justito de Copas and El Mirlo are on the way back through Paloma Baja.
Info: There are loads more trails to explore in this region, just below the old barracks!
Tour 2: La Balu Trail Loop
- Length: 16.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 541 metres of elevation gain
- Proportion of trail: 34 per cent
- Difficulty: S0–S2
Tour description
Starting point: Car park at the Hotel Hurricane or at the Torre de la Pena bus stop.
The tour: A short trail ride with a long climb and a challenging enduro descent back down. You follow the gravel and sand track again, running parallel to the main road heading west, but this time turn right into Los Alcornocales Nature Park. Here you can admire Spain’s largest cork oak forests whilst the track winds its way up, bend after bend, towards the wind turbines. At the base of the last wind turbine, the red, clayey descent finally branches off. A technical trail that repeatedly surprises you with loose stones, steps and steep sections. Essentially, it is a branched network of trails, all of which end at the ‘Hinkelstein car park’. After a short stretch on a gravel road, you immediately turn right onto the second section of the trail, which only ends after a total of 3.5 kilometres at the first houses in La Pena.
Key passages: This long, stepped and fairly steep descent calls for a confident riding technique. Especially after prolonged downpours, when the tyre treads have become clogged with clay.
A moment’s reflection: There are no bars or restaurants along the route. You might want to take a snack with you for the viewpoints!
Tour 3: Grand Coastal Circuit of Tarifa
- Length: 52.5 kilometres
- Uphill: 765 metres of elevation gain
- Proportion of trail: 29 per cent
- Difficulty: S0
Tour description
Starting point: Car park at the Hotel Hurricane
The tour: A challenging day’s ride up to the El Palancar Pass, featuring a long trail along the Mediterranean coast of Tarifa. We set off with five flat kilometres, giving you a chance to ease into the ride again. This time, heading east. Then the first short but steep climb branches off onto a loose, stony track. A quick breather before a four-kilometre-long climb begins. But that’s not all, because after a short descent, another seven kilometres of tough gravel track with gradients of up to 13 per cent lie in wait all the way to the El Palancar Pass. From up here, the view stretches across the Strait of Gibraltar. If you’re lucky, you won’t be blown out of the saddle up here. But the bizarrely twisted trees on the pass show just how fiercely the Levanto wind usually sweeps across this area. The toughest part of the climb is behind you. The remaining 32 kilometres of the route are either downhill or flat – though short uphill sections can’t be ruled out. In any case, the descent offers plenty of fun with a mix of sandy flow trails, short gravel sections, secluded mountain roads and views of Tarifa. The highlight comes at the end, when the trail reaches sea level and winds its way back for a few kilometres just above the sea.
Key passages: There are no sections that are particularly challenging to ride. However, the gusts of wind can make it difficult to stay on course, especially on the coastal trail.
A moment’s reflection: You’ll need to bring your own food and drink on the tour; the first bars and restaurants aren’t until you reach Tarifa
Download the GPS data
Subscribers to BIKE magazine or premium subscribers to BIKE digital can download the GPS data for the three Tarifa rides free of charge from bike-magazin.de under “MY AREA”. There, you’ll have free access to BIKE’s complete archive of rides.
Anyone who has subscribed to BIKE’s premium touring portal will automatically find the three tours in their app.
