What?! WHAT?! I can't understand a word of what Stefan is trying to tell me. I slide my feet a little closer to the slippery ledge and put my hand behind my ear. But Stefan waves me off. There's no point, the roar of the waterfall plunging into a deep, black hole beneath my feet is just too loud. Stefan is now grinning, waving and giving me the thumbs up. Okay, let's get going: I give the rope another tug, carefully hang my body weight into it and push myself off the edge. Wow, even the spray water is cold. I let myself down further until I fall straight into the waterfall. Tonnes of cold water thunder down on my head, taking my sight and breath away. Canyoning - the Sierra de Guara is world-famous for this sport.
Not at all for mountain biking, so far. But our guide Stefan promises that this wild karst landscape in the southern foothills of the Pyrenees also offers some beautiful trails. But he can't guarantee it, as he only knows the spectacular gorges from canyoning ropes. At first glance, the maps of this mountain range, located north of the city of Huesca in the province of Aragon, show a multitude of bike routes. But once you're in the middle of this landscape, you can't see the paths because of all the rocks and scrubland.
From Rodellar, our first ride ends in a bouldery river valley where the midday heat has just settled in. The landscape is fantastic: a light-flooded gorge landscape straight out of an adventure book stretches between dramatic wall formations, rock needles, arches and domes. Crystal-clear water gurgles over small waterfalls into turquoise-coloured pools that you just want to jump into. The only thing missing for perfect happiness is riding fun. In the shimmering heat, we lever our bikes clumsily through the undergrowth and are laughed at. From the many dragonflies that stare us straight in the face as we stand in the air and from the climbers who quickly lean back into the rope for this view from the rock face. Above, in the blue strip of sky, a few griffon vultures are even circling. Perhaps they are Egyptian vultures. Or short-toed eagles? In any case, the guidebook says that there are some here. Well, never mind now.
Much more important is how we finally get to ride. According to the tour map, this trail is only in the second most difficult category. One rock step higher, a trail actually winds its way slightly uphill, but easily rideable through a small meadow strewn with boulders. Right turn, left turn, right turn around a bush, hollow, right turn, left turn - that's the flow we were looking for! But no sooner have we finished thinking about it than we are faced with another blocked uphill ramp. Panting, we push through the blazing sun and curse the author of this "bike map". As our liquid supplies approach the end, but the path continues to climb up the slope with no prospect of rideability, we capitulate. Retreat! Better to go back and jump into the pools we passed an hour ago.
The next day, we take a smarter approach and enquire in detail with our landlord Omar, who is also a hiking guide. He recommends a trip up into the Sierra de Sebil. This is certainly not as challenging in terms of driving, but the scenery is overwhelming.
BIKE information for the Sierra de Guara
What is a paradise for climbers and canyonists can't really be bad for mountain bikers...
The precinct
On the southern edge of the Pyrenees, in the Aragon region north of the city of Huesca, lies the Sierra de Guara National Park. A karstic mountain landscape with extensive forests and deeply carved canyons. Bizarre rock formations, spectacular walls and narrow rock corridors with crystal-clear rivers, waterfalls and swimming pools are an Eldorado for climbers and canyoning fans. Despite a range of bike maps (to be used with caution!) and signposted bike tours (direction of travel often unclear!), there are (still?) virtually no mountain bikers here. After finding some very nice trails, we realise that this is an area with great discovery potential for bikers.
Arrival
Fly to Toulouse or Barcelona and from there take a hire car to the Sierra de Guara in around three hours. There is also a bus from Barcelona to Huesca.
Tours
Rodellar: There are challenging trails through narrow canyons around the climbing centre. Stunning scenery. Push sections are always possible. Bierge: Head east via San Pallegrin on a long cart track heading north towards the Sierra de Sebil. Great scenery and magnificent panoramic views of the Pyrenees. Alquezar: From this picturesque village, head north up into the national park: beautiful, technical single trails in an impressive landscape. Swimming pools!
Huesca: The Sierra de Monte Aragon lies to the north-east of the provincial capital of Huesca. Short ascent to the Castillo de Montearagon, then north-westwards on the cart track towards Fornillos. Head south-west, along the edge of the slope and downhill in various trail stretches.
Guided tours
Photographer and mountain guide Stefan Neuhauser offers a complete package. Info: www.bergfuehrer-sn.de
Maps
Pirineos Centrales/Pirineo Aragones (Michelin) or Parque de la Sierra Y Canoes de Guara (Pirineo).
Accommodation
Exceptionally nice accommodation: www.casabarbara.net (Finca in Bierge), www.refugio-kalandraka.es (Lodge in Rodellar).
You can find the entire article about the mountain bike tours in the Sierra de Guara as a PDF download below.
