Source of joy: 3 trail days along the Saale from Bad Lobenstein to Saalfeld

Teufelsberg, Teufelskanzel, Teufelsbrücke. You could get scared straight away. Lucifer seems to have his fingers in every pie in this neighbourhood. And he's also allied himself with the snakes. I could swear the river was on our left just a moment ago. Now it's suddenly meandering in from the right. Orientation? Difficult. Especially as the path in front of us also makes a lot of turns. "You'll have to get used to it," Jens calls over his shoulder to me at the back. "We haven't noticed that for a long time." Of course, when you're a local and you're out and about in this devil's labyrinth every day.

"Straight lines are not our thing here."

Since the start this morning, we have been passengers on a kind of rollercoaster. Because we are following the course of the Saale, which has conjured up a snaking line in the landscape that you rarely find. A tour that has been haunting my mind for quite some time. To be more precise, ever since I travelled with Jens Kaufmann and Frank Wolfram on their home trails a few years ago. This time, however, we have planned a stage trip on which the river will show itself from its most beautiful side for three days. It looks simple on the map: Start in Bad Lobenstein, finish in Saalfeld, with a junction in Ziegenrück in between. Not at all. "Straight lines aren't our thing here," remarks Frank with a grin. And when you look at the meandering course of the Saale, the only question that remains is: why? Okay, other rivers also make bends, such as the Saar and Moselle. But what geology has come up with in the Thuringian Slate Mountains is almost absurd.

Just as absurd is the number of trails that accompany the river. So many that the two locals have only included the really best ones for this tour. Quote from Jens: "Otherwise we'd never get anywhere." We only had to skip the Heinrichstein trail shortly after the start, as there were probably a few trees in the way. But the Frankenwald view is an adequate substitute, even with a view as far as the Fichtelgebirge, where the Saale has its source. A few kilometres further on, I realise again why this region has left such a lasting impression on me. After crossing a small plateau, a premium panorama opens up that takes my breath away. Admittedly, I always had to grin a little when the marketing slogan "Thuringian Sea" popped up in some brochure. But this Bleiloch reservoir really does lie beneath us like a Norwegian fjord. As one of five Saale barrages, it is also the reservoir with the most water in Germany. Surfers and yachtsmen whizz across the deep blue water. Opposite, Saalburg Beach shines in the sun - the only thing missing is the cruise ships to make it a real sea.

Mountain biking is an important tourism factor here

"By the way, we have the bark beetle to thank for the clear view," says Jens, a little worried. "The last time you were here, there was still forest all along the slope." The pest has cleared the entire trail, which we now surf down to the lake. The never-ending path follows the branching contours of the shore. Typical Saale: visually, the Bleiloch dam seems close enough to touch. It is only a few hundred metres across the water. But many kilometres pass before we reach it by land. Also typical: we only encounter hikers occasionally. "The hikers are all on the Rennsteig," says Jens sarcastically. "No, seriously, it's not always as quiet as it is today on our paths." The locals are keen for bikers and hikers to co-exist peacefully, as I noticed on my last visit.

The two founded the DIMB IG Thüringer Meer last year to ensure that this peaceful coexistence continues. "Mountain biking has become an important tourism factor in our region," explains Frank. "We are available as a point of contact for local authorities and tourism professionals." A community has formed via platforms such as Facebook and Komoot, which meets up for joint rides and provides information. This also includes information on the tour portal about the trails in the region. There is even a perfect example ahead of us on the next section of the tour. Namely, that the riverside trail between the Sperrmauer and Burgk Castle is closed indefinitely due to a rock slide on the Koberfelsen. Or which passages are better avoided at busy times.

Between Burgk and Ziegenrück, you can still experience the Saale as it once looked without barrages. A special section with a narrow watercourse and exuberant nature. Here, the river winds around six 180-degree bends like a snake gone wild. Over millions of years, the water has modelled a narrow mountain ridge along which the Hemmkoppe Trail balances as if on a knife edge. Not for the faint-hearted, but the after-work beer tastes even better with adrenalin in your blood.

The trails around Ziegenrück grow like wild grapes. But the surprise of the second day for me is the trail to the Teufelskanzel (Devil's Pulpit): its name really does say it all - one step further and you're in for a free fall - but the trail itself is lamblike fun. With every kilometre, the Saale widens again and forms the Hohenwarte reservoir. After each descent, we pass bays with bathing spots, which in turn are connected by marvellous paths. As we look down from the edge of the Bockfels slope, the expertise of the locals is once again worth its weight in gold. "There's also a trail at the bottom along the Saale river," says Jens, pointing vertically into the depths. "But there are some climbing sections where even carrying the bike becomes difficult."

Change of scene on the third day: Saalfeld

Although the Saale still leads the way in this scenery, the valley changes its character drastically from Saalfeld onwards. Suddenly it opens up into a wide basin with space for towns and industry. The immediately neighbouring slate mountains, playground of the Saalfeld bikelocals, appear all the more impressive as a result. Frank Köllner joins us here. He just returned from a business trip to Japan a few hours ago. But despite his jet lag, the head of the cycling department at SSV Saalfeld doesn't miss the opportunity to guide us personally along the best trails in his home town.

And it starts with a project that he is particularly proud of. Together with trail builder Lucas Rahm, the people of Saalfeld have dug five trails into the slopes of the Gartenkuppe. Everyone has pitched in so that the Thuringian town can be at the forefront of mountain biking. Even local heroine Nina Hoffmann, multiple World Cup winner and runner-up in the Downhill World Cup, contributed her international experience to the design of the trails. "Our aim is to make the trails flow as naturally as possible," says Frank and shoots straight ahead. Several metres in altitude and kilometres of trail later, we reach the Kesselwarte viewpoint, where I realise the size of the area for the first time: The view stretches from the Saale valley across the Slate Mountains to the Thuringian Forest. The possibilities are endless! The three boys nod. Okay, then I'll probably come back again soon.

Stage 1: Lobenstein - Ziegenrück

• Length: 44 kilometres
• Uphill: 647 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 836 metres in depth
• Trail share: 38 per cent
• Difficulty: medium

Tour description

The spa town of Bad Lobenstein is located somewhat away from the Saale, but offers a direct railway connection for the journey there and back. From the foothills of the Thuringian Forest, the first trail leads steeply out of the Lobenstein valley basin. After a few kilometres, you can see the river landscape of the following days from the Frankenwald viewpoint: the Saale forms the Bleiloch reservoir here and gets wider with every kilometre. Forest paths and trails lead to a plateau opposite Saalburg, then it's all downhill on trails: down to the lake and along the shore to the dam wall. Continue to Burgk Castle, which is theatrically enthroned on a mountain outcrop, and over the Teufelsberg to Dörflas. A sometimes damp trail leads along the Wisenta back to the Saale. On the other side of the river, the last challenge of the day is on lumberjack trails: a steep rocky path leads up to the Hemmkoppe and the (mostly overgrown) Zwei-Saale-Blick. Then on a narrow ridge trail down to Ziegenrück.

• Starting point: Bad Lobenstein railway station, (free) parking directly opposite.
• Highlights: Marvellous views of the Saale loops and the ridge trail down to Ziegenrück. Crazy: The tightest of all river bends at the Hemmkoppe.
• Key points: The trails are generally easy to ride, with the exception of the steep crossing of the Hemmkoppe. The last trail contains rocky steps!
• Trail share: 16.7 kilometres (38 %)
• Refreshments: Gasthaus Schlossterrasse at Burgk Castle

2nd stage: Ziegenrück - Saalfeld

• Length: 45.3 kilometres
• Uphill: 1009 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1013 metres in depth
• Trail share: 23 per cent
• Difficulty: medium

Tour description

The day starts steeply. But there is no other sensible way up the Lasterberg than this path. The view is magnificent and the following trail to the Teufelskanzel is the highlight of the day. At the bottom is the next barrage on the Saale: the Hohenwarte reservoir with bathing beaches and campsites. In between, there are always fun trails and forest paths. But also long climbs when there is no path along the banks. The next Saale loop can only be reached via the Bockfelsen rock, which stands like a cliff above the river. Be careful, this is a vertical drop into the abyss. The trail along the edge is too dangerous and closed. Short diversions, no problem. The moss hut (its walls are stuffed with moss) is the next panoramic highlight, then the last, mighty dam wall slowly comes into view (kiosk for refreshments). The last ascent leads via Bucha and Goßwitz to the Teufelsbrücke on the Gleitsch with its Stone Age cave and impressive rock bridge. A final trail down to the Saale, then you roll along cycle paths into the old town centre of Saalfeld.

• Starting point: At the Fernmühle inn in Ziegenrück.
• Highlights: The viewpoints from the high bank onto the winding river valley, the Karl-Rühl-Hütte on the Lasterberg, the subsequent trail descent to the Teufelskanzel and the exposed Bockfelsen.
• Key points: All paths and trails are easy to ride.
• Trail share: 10.5 kilometres (23 %).
• Refreshments: You pass several campsites along the Saale with catering facilities. Also: Stauseeblick snack bar at the Hohenwarte barrier wall.

Stage 3: Saalfeld - Saalfeld

• Length: 47.6 kilometres
• Uphill: 861 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 961 metres in depth
• Trail share: 19 per cent
• Difficulty: medium

Tour description

You could follow the course of the Saale even further to Kahla or Jena. The trails don't stop there. From here, however, the valley itself is rather wide and dotted with lots of industry. Saalfeld, on the other hand, is really stepping on the gas with the upcoming opening of the fairy bike trails. This tour marks the start of the fairy network and then leads to the other highlights around the town. The hub of the fairy trails is the Gartenkuppe in the south of the city. The ascent begins at the fairy caves, which are signposted throughout the city. After the descent (trail of your choice), the route follows the Saale river to the foot of the Kulm. A tarmac side road takes us up Saalfeld's distinctive local mountain (with a viewing tower). Various trails lead back to the valley, mainly to the south and west. This suggested route crosses the Saale in Volkstedt, between Schwarza and Rudolstadt. Soon a bumpy gravel path leads steeply up to the Kesselwarte, at the top with a magnificent view over Blankenburg into the Slate Mountains. A great hillside path leads to Fröbelblick and its descent to Bad Blankenburg (detour to the ruins of Greifenstein Castle?). Along the Saale and leisurely back to Saalfeld.

• Starting point: Entrance/car park Saalfelder Feengrotten
• Highlights: The fairy bike trails, the view from the Kulm, the Kesselwarte and the trail to the Fröbelblick.
• Key sections: Depending on the route selected, the fairy bike trails are quite challenging.
• Proportion of trail: 8.8 kilometres (19%)
• Refreshments: A lovely beer garden awaits you on the Kulm.

The GPS data for the tour along the Saale

BIKE subscribers can download the GPX data for the tour free of charge at bike-magazin.de under "My area".

Subscribers to the DK-Touren portal will automatically find the GPX data in their app and can start navigating straight away:

Info Saale-Trip

The precinct

The spectacularly winding upper reaches of the Saale lie to the north-east of the Thuringian Forest in the adjoining Thuringian Slate Mountains. In contrast to the well-known Rennsteig hiking trail, which runs along the ridge of the Thuringian Forest, the Saale valley still enjoys a certain insider tip status. Our tour begins at the eastern end of the Rennsteig, which ends in Blankenstein. It follows the course of the Saale to the small town of Saalfeld. The valley dug deep into the landscape provides visual stimuli and, above all, metres in altitude. During the journey, there are almost constant spectacular views down to the river. Due to the size of the Bleiloch and Hohenwarte reservoirs, the Saale cascade is also known as the Thuringian Sea. Good for bike tours: the entire region lies in the weather shadow of the Thuringian Forest, which favours the regional climate.

Journey

By train: Bad Lobenstein can be reached via the regional railway from Saalfeld (RB32 towards Blankenstein). Saalfeld in turn is connected to the national railway network (from Erfurt and Leipzig).
By car: The nearest motorway is the A9 (Munich - Nuremberg - Berlin), which runs 12 kilometres east of Lobenstein Lohr (exit 29, Bad Lobenstein). Distance from Munich 311 km, from Frankfurt 350 km, from Leipzig 150 km.

Overnight stay

Bad Lobenstein: Conny's Träumerei. This small but exquisite guesthouse opened in March 2024, with lovingly furnished themed rooms and a colourful breakfast. Convenient for your return: the Träumerei is located in the railway station building. Poststraße 4, tel. 036651/134149, www.connys-träumerei.de

Ziegenrück: Gasthof zur Fernmühle. Typical Thuringian hospitality in a historic building right on the banks of the Saale. Top: The covered outdoor terrace and the excellent regional cuisine. The hydropower museum in the neighbouring building is also worth a visit. Lobensteiner Str. 6, fernmuehle.de

Saalfeld: Feengrotten spring house. This historic building once housed the research laboratories of the Saalefeld healing springs. No catering except breakfast. Ideal starting point for the fairy bike trails. Fairy Grotto Trail 2.

Bike shops

There are no bike shops/repair shops on the route between Lobenstein and Saalfeld! It is therefore best to get the usual spare parts in Lobenstein or then again in Saalfeld:

• Slickrock, Heinrich-Behr-Str. 7A in Bad Lobenstein, slickrock-fahrradladen.de
• Radleck Bikes & Sports, Am Cröstener Weg 11A in Saalfeld, bikes-sports.com

Fairies.Bike.Trails

The cycling club in Saalfeld organises group rides, enduro races, training for young people and the Feen Bike Marathon. The latest information and dates on Instagram!

General information

Tourismusverbund Rennsteig-Saaleland e.V., District Office Saale-Orla-Kreis, Oschitzer Straße 4 in Schleiz, rennsteigsaaleland.de

District highlights

Fairy Bike Trails by Nina Hoffmann

Saalfeld is slowly but surely developing into a hotspot for mountain bikers. The fairy trails await on the Gartenkuppe, above the fairy grottos. Five extremely winding forest trails (22 km), where even World Cup downhiller Nina Hoffmann was on hand to offer advice. The dedicated locals from the newly founded IG Thüringer Meer have done the shovelling. Info: fairy-bike-events.com and saalfeld-tourism.com

Fairy Grottoes

According to the Guinness Book of Records, the stalactite caves discovered by chance during mining are the most colourful show caves in the world.

Ziegenrück Hydropower Museum

From historic turbines and water wheels to a true-to-scale relief of the five dams of the upper Saale (Saale cascade). Info: hydropowermuseum.de