The leisurely pace of island life is perfect for exploring by bike - and surprised TREKKINGBIKE author Jörg Spaniol with fantastic panoramic cycle routes.
General
With an area of 270 square kilometres, El Hierro is the smallest of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic. It is the south-western arm of the archipelago and is permanently inhabited by only 10,000 people. Of these, 2500 live in the "capital" Valverde. The entire island is a single volcanic mountain range with a height of up to 1500 metres, which slopes steeply down to the sea all around. The north-facing parts of the country (especially the areas above 500 metres) are relatively green because the clouds of the north-east trade winds accumulate in the mountains. Towards the south and the east coast, El Hierro becomes increasingly arid and volcanic.
Our tours
Ireland with pineapple
Mocanal - Guarazoca - Mirador de La Peña - HI 120 - Mirador de Jimana - San Andres - Tiñor - Valverde - Mocanal;
The ascent to two of the island's most spectacular viewpoints is hard work, but the dead straight road through the pastureland of the Meseta de Nisdafe is an attraction in itself: cow pastures with Irish-style stone walls are not something you expect to find on the Canary Islands. From the 1200 metre high vantage point, it's practically all downhill on the way back.
It couldn't be flatter
Tigaday - Las Puntas - HI 550 - Pozo de la Salud - Sabinosa - Tigaday
If you push, you get more out of the route: between Punta Grande with the once "smallest hotel in the world" and the wonderful seawater pools of La Maceta, there is a boardwalk for pedestrians along the cliff. If you skip it, you will reach your destination. A second trick of this relaxed tour (apart from a longer ascent before Sabinosa) is the gravel track along the water pipeline on the way back: 2 km after Sabinosa, follow the sign "La Tabla" sharply downhill to the left, then turn right and ride 10 km back to the start.
Lonely heights
Car park junction HI 1/ HI 45 - HI 45 westwards - Cruce del Tomilar - panoramic road eastwards - El Pinar - HI 40 - car park
Adventurous and breathtaking: the south-west of the island is almost deserted. The starting point is where the main road from Frontera reaches its highest point. From there, a partly unpaved road leads through wild pastureland. The road parallel to the coast on the way back is so scenic through pine forests that it is probably one of the "top ten" in the Canary Islands at least. No catering facilities before El Pinar!
To the crooked tree
Pozo de la Salud - Ermita Virgen de los Reyes - El Sabinar - Mirador de Bascos (and back)
A fine tarmac road winds its way through desert lava fields to the island shrine, a statue of the Virgin Mary. A few earthy kilometres further on, the famous crooked laurel tree "El Sabinar" and the abysmal viewpoint "de Bascos" are two more island highlights. No refreshments available.
Travelling time
In principle all year round. Winter temperatures on the coast 15 to 20 degrees, water temperature then 18 to 19 degrees. Accommodation with heating is recommended above 300 metres above sea level at the latest.
Arrival
There are no direct flights to El Hierro. Both by ship and by island plane, the journey to El Hierro is initially via Tenerife. International flights mainly land at the south airport. From there, there is a regular bus service (bicycles can be taken in the luggage compartment; timetables etc.): http://www.titsa.com) to the ferry harbour of Los Cristianos. The inexpensive ferries from Armas (from 30 euros; http://www.navieraarmas.es) take about four hours to El Hierro, the faster ones from Fred Olsen only two hours (from approx. 60 euros; http://www.fredolsen.es
By aeroplane: The island planes from Binter (http://www.bintercanarias.com) and Islas Airways (http://www.islasnet.com) depart from Tenerife's north airport. There is a regular bus service between the two Tenerife airports from Titsa (http://www.titsa.com). Flight prices vary depending on the season (from approx. 40 euros), as do the costs for taking bicycles (from approx. 25 euros). After three quarters of an hour, the twin-engine turboprops touch down on El Hierro. On El Hierro, the scheduled buses from Transhierro (http://www.transhierro.es) on the main Frontera - Valverde - Restinga route free of charge.
Information
In advance via Visit Spain Munich, Tel. 089-5307460; http://www.spain.infoon site at the tourist information office in the centre of Valverde, tel. 0034-922-550 302; http://www.el-hierro.eu
Accommodation
In winter, accommodation is recommended in the lower parts of the island, especially on the north-west coast (Frontera/Tigaday, Puntas Grandes, Pozo de la Salud) due to the more pleasant temperatures.
Apartements Los Verodes, Tel. 0034-620-751 192; http://www.apartamentoslosverodes.es
Two-person flat from 38 euros/night.
Apartements El Sitio, Tel. 0034-922-55 98 43; http://www.elsitio-elhierro.es
Romantic, rustic cottages on a plot on the edge of the village with the best views. Two persons from 38 Euro/night
Puntas Grandes, Hotel Punta Grande, Tel. 0034-922- 55 90 81. The hotel, which for years was listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the "smallest hotel in the world" (three rooms), stands on a rocky outcrop in the surf. Interior designed by Cesar Manrique. Double room/breakfast 76 euros
Food
El Secreto, Val verde, Calle Quintero Ramos 2; http://www.tascaelsecreto.com
A "quirky" ambience by local standards with brightly coloured furniture.
La Mirada Profunda, Valverde, Santiago 25, tel. 0041-922-55 17 87;
This fine restaurant is relatively inconspicuous on the outskirts of Valverde. The internationally experienced chef and owner has a lively menu and is happy to make recommendations - also in German. Upscale, but not exorbitant prices.
View
Ecomuseo de Guinea, on the main road between Frontera and Las Puntas. The Ecomuseo consists of two parts: a breeding centre for the endemic giant lizard and a museum village with farmhouses from past centuries. A guided tour (in English on Thursdays at 10.30 a.m.) explains the changing development of life on the island. Admission incl. guided tour 7.50 euros.
Swimming opportunities in winter are very limited. Great natural swimming pools are "La Maceta" between Frontera and Puntas Grandes, a sheltered rocky bay is located in the south-west of the island (Cala de Tacoron).
Literature/Maps
Reise Know-how "El Hierro", Izabella Gawin, 12.50 euros As the latest edition is from 2008, not all details are correct. Good nevertheless.
Map "El Hierro", 1:30,000, Freytag & Berndt, 7.95 euros
