It was still there a moment ago, the sea. Now it has disappeared. Of course, there must still be water somewhere. Because the ferry we took from List on Sylt to Rømø is just making its way back. But here on Sønderstrand on Rømø, Denmark's southernmost North Sea island, it has disappeared. No water, no sound of waves, instead lots of sand - and euphoric cheering. This comes from the beach sailors who whizz across Europe's widest sandy beach at speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour in their daredevil boxes. "Rømø is the best place in the world for beach sailing," claims Henning Bruun, who runs a beach sailing school here. And he says it in such a way that you can hardly doubt it.
Cycling along the stand
It really does look like ideal conditions for beach sailors. Especially at low tide, when the water of the North Sea is up to three kilometres away from the dune belt and there is plenty of space. However, Romø only becomes a paradise for beach sailors, kite buggies and all those who like to fly kites because there is always wind up here. This also makes cycling a great pleasure ... but only if the wind is coming from behind, whereas you have to really struggle when there is a headwind. Which didn't stop us from setting off on an island-hopping tour through the Danish Wadden Sea. From Sylt via Rømø and along the west coast of southern Jutland via Mandø to Fanø.
Henning Bruun knows that the wind plays a different role for cyclists than it does for beach sailors. After all, they can change direction with the right manoeuvre - and pick up speed again. In the current wind conditions, he recommends: "Just ride along the beach here." What may sound pretty daft at first is not so far-fetched on Romø. Cars are even allowed on certain sections of the huge twelve-kilometre-long beach, and we've even seen a few bikes.
On the panoramic route through dunes and heathland
But we decide otherwise and cruise through the centre of the island. A good decision, because the landscape on Rømø is not only something very special on the "Waterkant". The "Panoramaroute 402" takes us through a beautiful landscape of dunes and heathland, through forests and finally through the marshland in the north-east of the island. From there, we take the Rømødæmningen, the causeway that connects the island to the mainland, and continue north along the dyke. Unfortunately, we had to cancel Mandø from our island hopping plan. But we realised beforehand that the trip there would only succeed with a lot of planning or a lot of luck. Because the approach via the causeway depends on the tide. You can only get across at low tide with your own vehicle or with the very special Mandø fleet: old, converted buses pulled by powerful tractors.
On the trail of the Vikings
Instead, we travel to Ribe, the oldest town in Denmark - and certainly one of the most beautiful. The mighty cathedral, which towers over the numerous well-preserved half-timbered houses, is the landmark of the former Viking settlement. Fanø, on the other hand, can only be reached via Esbjerg. And Esbjerg is the opposite of Ribe: a rather unattractive industrial town, which for most people is only a transit point to Fanø.
And there we do exactly what Henning Bruun had already suggested for Rømø. From Fanø Bad, the route runs along the beach for around ten kilometres. It doesn't get any better than this; from time to time the spray of the choppy North Sea blows in our faces; the wind kindly comes from behind and the sound of the sea is free. We can't quite keep up with the beach sailors who are also out and about here. We are just thinking about how this could work with a bike and a sail when we suddenly have to stop ...
Just a few metres from the sandy slope are two small seals. Incredibly cute, the way they look at you with their beady eyes. Under no circumstances should I touch them, I had once learnt. But should I go for help now? Have these two "howlers" lost their mum? Or is she just out hunting and has dropped her young off on the beach? After a bit of googling, we reach Søren Brinch. The man has been guiding tourists on seal safaris through the Fanø Wadden Sea National Park for 20 years. "If they're not injured, don't worry. The mum will come," says the nature guide, "but only if there are no people standing around." That makes sense, so we quickly continue along the beach, through picturesque Sønderho back to Nordby to the Fanø Krogaard restaurant. "Dagens fisk", the fresh catch of the day, is on the menu. We have to think about the two seal pups again. Hopefully their mum has found them and will bring them the "Dagens fisk" too.
MYBIKE tour suggestion for a short cycle trip through the Danish Wadden Sea
Approach: Cycle from Westerland on signposted cycle routes to List on Sylt (25.1 km). From there, take the ferry to Havneby on Rømø.
Danish Wadden Sea Tour 1: Rømø - Ribe
71.2 km, mostly flat, asphalt, forest path, sand, gravel
On Rømø on the Panorama Route 402 across the island; through forest, heath and dune landscape and finally from Lakolk on the west coast back to the tidal flats. At the time of our journey, the dyke in the north was being repaired. According to the Rømø tourist information centre, it should be passable again in 2023. After the nine kilometres or so over the Rømødæmningen to the mainland, we head north along the coast of the Wadden Sea. The path with extremely rough and sharp gravel a little further inland is signposted as the North Sea Coast Cycle Route (Vestkystvej 1), but there is a much better path directly below the dyke. At Vester Vested, the route heads inland to Ribe.
Danish Wadden Sea Tour 2: Ribe - Fanø
70.5 km, mostly flat, asphalt, forest path, sand
On small, low-traffic country roads (signposted as the North Sea coastal cycle path with the number 1) through fields and unspectacular villages to the dyke, from there northwards to Esbjerg. Take the ferry across to Fanø. There, parallel to the road to Fanø Bad and from there along the North Sea beach. You can initially choose between a track along the imposing dunes or almost directly by the water. The sand is completely compacted; it's almost like rolling on tarmac. After a good ten kilometres, you reach Sønderho with its picturesque little houses. Return towards the ferry either completely on the newly made cycle path along the country road or turn off again towards the mudflats; the paths there are sometimes adventurous and strenuous because they are sandy.
GPS data for the Danish Wadden Sea short cycle tour
You can download the GPS data for the cycle tour across the Danish islands of Rømø and Fanø at download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot
Info & tips for the cycle tour through the Danish Wadden Sea
Arrival
Railway: From Hamburg-Altona, the regional train takes just under 3 hours to Sylt. It costs 28 euros for one passenger, 32 euros for two and 44 euros for five. Plus a day bike ticket. Tip: the Schleswig-Holstein ticket for up to five travellers, valid from 9.00 a.m. on weekdays and from 0.00 a.m. at weekends. IC trains also run from Hamburg main station to Westerland. The return journey from Esbjerg takes around 3.5 hours with one change to Hamburg. Please book your bike in advance for IC and Danish trains!
Car: To Niebüll, from there take the car train to Sylt and leave the car there. Or drive to Niebüll (from HH via Heide and Husum on the B 5 or via Schleswig and Flensburg on the A 7 motorway), park the car there and take the regional train to the island.
The Ferry from List on Sylt to Havneby on Rømø runs around a dozen times a day in summer. Journey time approx. 45 minutes; crossing for one person with bicycle 12 euros. You can buy all tickets online, the bike ticket only on site.
The Ferry Esbjerg-Fanø sometimes runs every 20 minutes in the high season and only takes twelve minutes. The return journey costs 50 Danish kroner per person and bike (approx. 7 euros) in the high season.
Worth seeing
At the National Museum Kommandørgården on Rømø, you can get a good insight into island life in earlier times. The exhibitions focus on the whaling era, with the highlight being the huge skeleton of a sperm whale.
Right next door in Toftum you will find the oldest and smallest school in Denmark. Ribe, Denmark's oldest town with its mighty cathedral, is a total work of art and invites you to take a stroll; in the Museet Ribes Vikinger you can follow in the footsteps of the Vikings, who founded the first settlement here around 700 AD.
The Vadehavscentret (Wadden Sea Centre) in Vester Vedsted provides interesting information about the Wadden Sea UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Danish Wadden Sea - Accommodation
- Enjoy Resort Rømø: Very comfortable holiday homes. Minimum stay two nights. House for up to 4 people: 350 euros per night.
- Also on Rømø: Havneby Kro and Hotel Kommandøgåden, both cheaper. Sufficient for one night.
- DanHostel (Ribe): You have to make your own bed, but otherwise it's a step ahead of German youth hostels in terms of comfort and service. Wide range of leisure activities, great location. Double room from approx. 80 euros.
- Scandic Olympic (Esbjerg): Typical mid-range city hotel between the city centre and the harbour. Perfect for one night. Double room from approx. 130 euros.
- The Fanø Krogaard: Cosy rooms (from approx. 150 euros), delicious food.
- Hotel Sønderho Kro (Fanø): Very cosy, in the south of the island. Double room from 250 euros.
Food and drink
In Denmark, more and more restaurants are serving regional cuisine at a high level - but also in terms of price. A main course in a good restaurant rarely costs less than 25 euros. For those on a tight budget, a Pølser stall might do the trick. Among other things, they offer the typical Danish red sausages (Rød Pølser), kogt (boiled) or risted (fried) and prepared with dried fried onions, gherkins and plenty of sauces to make excellent hot dogs.
MYBIKE tip
Strandseljere: Beach sailing on the Sønderstrand beach on Rømø. After a short introduction, you can set off at speeds of up to 50 km/h. One hour at OurStuff incl. equipment 50 euros.
Bike service
- Rømø: Rømø-Cykler (bike hire with workshop), tel.: +45 88 935040,
- Ribe: Pedaleksperten, tel.: +45 75 420303;
Ribe Cykellager, tel.: +45 75 424242 - Esbjerg: Fri Bikeshop, tel.: +45 75 124943,
- Nordby on Fanø: Fri Bikeshop, Tel.: +45 75 162460,
Map
ADFC cycle tour map of Denmark: Jutland South, Funen (sheet DK 2), scale 1:115,000, 9.95 euros,
Danish Wadden Sea by bike - you can find more information here:
Tourist information Rømø: Tel.: +73 709650,
Further information in German: www.roemoe.de
Fanø Tourist Information Centre (in Nordby): Tel: +45 70 264200,
General information: www.visitdenmark.de
