Scotland is rough. I order a mumbled "half a half", i.e. half a pint and half a whisky. Because that's how it's done here, someone told me before the trip. But the barman laughs at me: "Two halves? Why don't you have two whole ones?" As the old violinist on stage is just starting the next folk song, I agree with a thumbs-up. After all, you don't want to be lousy. The Old Bridge Inn in Aviemore is a pub straight out of a Scottish picture book: the audience is a colourful mix, live music is playing in one corner and the fireplace is blazing in the other. We are not the only mountain bikers here either. At a large table, the trail maps are being frantically pushed aside as the burgers are served. This is where people meet, talk about the trails and plan the tour for the next day.
I don't have to worry about planning the tour this time. It's the third day of our six-day road trip through Scotland and my tour guide is none other than Scotty Laughland, a Scottish biking legend. He lives with his family in the small town of Stirling, just north of Edinburgh, and runs his own YouTube channel about the best trails in Scotland. You couldn't wish for a more competent partner for this eMTB trip. To acclimatise, Scotty took us to the mountain bike epicentre of the Tweed Valley in the south of the country for the first day. From there we travelled north to Dunkeld, at the foot of the Highlands, and today we already had the trails in Ballater, right in the middle of the Cairngorms National Park. Tomorrow morning we're due to continue with the trail rounds in Aviemore, so we've already travelled here in the evening and are now sitting in this iconic pub. As I bite into my tasty, juicy burger, I grin inwardly, because before travelling to Scotland I was afraid of two things: bad weather and bad food. But so far I haven't even needed a rain suit - and I've been advised to pack at least three.
Cairngorms National Park: To the top of the wind
Sun cream would have been good, I think, as we cruise through the Highlands again the next morning, well sunlit. This time we're travelling from the west through the Cairngorms National Park. A wild, rugged mountain landscape with the highest peak measuring 1245 metres, which is just about mid-mountain height. But this far up north, that's enough for an alpine backdrop. The landscape becomes more rugged with every turn of the pedals. At some point, we roll across a steppe-like plateau, where only a few boulders decorate the endless landscape. The sky darkens, but instead of rain, gale-force winds soon whip us in the face. Which makes sense, because our ascent destination is the Sgòr Gaoith. A summit 1118 metres high, whose name only Scots can probably pronounce correctly. In any case, it translates as "top of the wind". From this, one could conclude that it has always made it so difficult for its conquerors. We are now struggling to keep our bikes on course, that's how much the storm is pulling at us. Barren landscape also means: no trees, no bushes, no shelter. Instead, the path is now becoming increasingly rough. But Scotty sticks to his guns, he wants to get up there with us. And rightly so, because the view from the summit is truly gigantic: we venture as close as possible to the edge of the precipice in the storm and look down 400 metres to Loch Einich, shimmering black below. A scene straight out of the film "The Highlander".
For the descent, Scotty has chosen a variant that he doesn't yet know himself. This trail hurries quickly and directly down the mountain flank. The wind now grabs us from the side to throw us off course. But once we reach the tree line, the spook is over. We surf relaxed through a Caledonian forest, a native species of pine that can only be found in this region of Scotland. A play of light and shade and scent that gives the trail an almost Californian flair.
Tarland - the self-financed trail mecca
Over a quick sausage roll at Tamachan Caffè, Scotty suggests the new Tarland Trail Park, just outside Aberdeen, as our next destination. A little later, the car park is full of like-minded people, but we are alone on the trails. The park is new and was financed by donations. The shovel and hoe have been wielded exclusively by volunteers. That's good news for the council coffers, but also for the bikers, because the result is brilliant. There is something for almost every taste, from uphill flow to blue, red and black difficulty levels and even a jumpline. Our first descent is called "Call Me Chris" and has plenty of freshly shaped banked turns, we grin from ear to ear and can't resist an enthusiastic "Thanks, Chris!" at the end.
We then chase each other over the jumpline several times until our batteries and range extenders are almost empty. We wanted to go all the way up to the summit again. But we're lucky: we still have enough energy to get to the start of the six-kilometre-long "High Pressure". For its perfectly shaped berms, I would pedal up again even without a battery, but unfortunately we are now running out of daylight. In the meantime, Scotty's friend Neil has fired up the barbecue for us. There's venison from the Queen's former hunting ground and a beer or two to go with it. A real treat!
In addition to all the trail centres funded by the state, there are now also donation-funded ones - you want to become Scottish. - Holger Meyer
I love the mountain bike culture in Scotland. Almost every town here has at least one designated trail loop and the next larger trail park is always just a few minutes away by car. There are also bike shops and cool cafés everywhere, where bikers meet up to ride together. You can ride whatever the weather. A spirit that I have never experienced anywhere else in Germany.
Torridon: Trails with a sea view - in theory
Our next spot takes us to Torridon, the northernmost point of our road trip. This close to the sea, the Highlands are once again particularly wild. Despite the beautiful weather, we don't meet anyone as we work our way up an old pass, hairpin bend by hairpin bend. The trail is rocky and technical in places, but remains rideable. Only the water channels running across the path seem a little oversized. But no sooner have we made fun of them than the first clouds approach from the west. And quickly. We have not yet reached the highest point when the first ones reach out and fog us in. Visibility is perhaps 15 metres. But what's even worse: almost as if on cue, it starts pouring down in buckets. We can see how quickly the gutters fill up to the brim - as do our shoes, by the way. At least at least one of the rain suits I've travelled in is put to good use.
Now that the promised summit panorama has been cancelled, the descent can begin seamlessly. We bump over rough scree, but the tyres grip surprisingly well. Even stepped, blocked passages can be rumbled down safely until we finally roll out into the bay of Torridon, where the sun greets us again on the last few metres.
Isle of Skye: Does the Sligachan Trail even exist?
Just like the next morning, when we cross over to the Isle of Skye on the small ferry boat "Misty Isle" on mirror-smooth water. We chug past huge rocks and barren coastline. The skipper, Sandy, is talking about the Vikings who once ruled the sea routes here when we turn into the bay of Loch Coruisk. You can still recognise the glacial erratics on the rocks on the shore. A few seals have made themselves comfortable on the rocks warmed up by the sun and are not disturbed by us. Our plan: somehow get through this rock face to the pass-like crossing up there to meet the Sligachan Path on the other side. At least the map claims that this trail exists. Unfortunately, the uphill terrain is steeper and wilder than expected.
Traces of a path can only be recognised in the upper section. Until then, carrying and pushing the e-bikes is no fun, but we are rewarded with a super view: on the other side, a defined singletrack winds through the eternal expanse until it disappears as a small dot on the horizon. A trail to kneel down on. In between, there are a few steps and ledges that require physical exertion. At the end, the trail flows alongside a river and spits us out again right in front of Seumas' whisky bar. There are 400 varieties of the national drink on the shelves here. But after this intense day of biking, I insist: a half, please!
Info Scotland
Scotland's trail centres are sensational, its wild nature trails unique. Our road trip route through the whole country is the perfect mix.
1 - Tweed Valley
Around 50 kilometres from Edinburgh lies the epicentre of the Scottish bike scene: the Tweed Valley with its famous Seven Stanes trail parks. Of the eight bike spots with over 100 kilometres of trails, Glentress, Peebles and Innerleithen are particularly worth a visit. Glentress hosted the 2023 World Cross Country Championships and has also hosted the Enduro World Series several times.
Info: Trail maps, directions and all important addresses: forestryandland.gov.scot
Local tips: For snacks and good coffee, stop off in Innerleithen at the coffee shop "No.1 Peebles Road". There is also accommodation with an iconic pub just opposite: The Traquair Arms.
2 - Dunkeld
Dunkeld is about an hour's drive north of Edinburgh. The small town is the gateway to the Highlands, has a historic town centre from the 18th century, nice shops and a beer garden right on the River Tay. The trails lead through the countryside, but are largely unspoilt and somewhat more challenging.
Info: An overview map with the trails can be found on the Internet at trailforks.comotherwise upliftscotland.com
Local tips: The best coffee can be found at The Aran Bakery and the most stylish accommodation address with restaurant and pub where you can meet in the evening in Dunkeld: The Taybank.
3 - Ballater
Every baker, butcher and craftsman in Ballater also supplies their goods and services to the royal family, as King Charles and his family own a hunting lodge here. The trails here are also fit for royalty: behind the name Heartbreak Ridge is an alpine nature trail that runs along a long ridge and leads through marvellous heathland. At the end, it drops into steeper terrain with grippy granite boulders and then flows through the forest.
4 Tarland Bike Park
The latest achievement in the Aberdeenshire region was realised with donations of one million pounds. The result: a genuine trail park with a 400 metre difference in altitude and routes of up to six kilometres in length.
Info: tarland-trails.com
Local tips: Top address for the ride-in: Tarmachan Cafe, accommodation/pub: The Boat Inn, Aboyne.
5 - Sgor Gaoith
Epic alpine tour to the 1180 metre high summit in the Cairngorms National Park. The ascent leads along a gravel road that becomes increasingly rough towards the end. Good riding technique is required for the descent in the upper third. Lots of flow in the forest later on.
Info: visitcairngorms.com (under the heading Adventure/Outdoor)
Local tips: Iconic coffee in a yurt tent: Cabin Coffee in Aviemore. Accommodation: Ravenscraig Guest House, ravenscraighouse.co.ukbest pub: The Old Bridge Inn in Aviemore.
6 Torridon
The northernmost point of our road trip. The Highlands are really wild here. You can clearly feel this on the tour: uphill on a stony track and then downhill again over rough steps and stone slabs.
Info: The tour track is available at trailforks.com under the Torridon region (Tour 12552).
Local tips: Best place to stop for refreshments: The Midge Bite Cafe, time-honoured accommodation: The Stables - Torridon Inn, thetorridon.com
7 Isle of Skye/ Elgol
Boat trip to the Isle of Skye: The Sligachan Path is a stony picture-book path, but the ascent from the bay to the pass is tough: 400 metres in altitude through rocky terrain!
Info: Matching track to the tour: mtbproject.com
