Sardinia - Europe's largest sandpit
Children want to go to the seaside, parents too - but we would also like a bit of culture, sport and relaxation away from the tourist hotspots. We take a pragmatic approach to what many families discuss at length. We pack the e-bikes and trailer onto the camper, fill the storage space with beach toys and head for a coastal region or island in southern Europe.
This time our choice is Sardinia. Many cycle tour operators have the second largest island in the Mediterranean in their portfolio and offer organised group or individual tours lasting several days from place to place.
Planning is everything
However, as our motorhome serves as a base, we are looking for nice location tours that we can do with our daughter on the co-driver. Once the ferry crossing has been booked, we have a whole three months left for extensive research in topographical maps, travel guides and on Google Earth. We come up with five tours that we want to tackle on the north and west sides of our planned itinerary.
For 3000 years, the Sardinians were subject to foreign rule. The island was invaded, besieged, conquered and annexed. But the inhabitants have always rebelled and risen up against the foreign rulers. It was not until 1948 that Sardinia was granted special status as an autonomous region of Italy. The Sardinians, who are so proud of their history, but are still fighting on today: against a modern form of siege - the structural expansion of tourism.
Acclimatise with a view
In 1989, the regional parliament passed a law to curb the expansion of tourism. Where in other places the view of the sea is obscured by hotels and leisure centres, in Sardinia there are still kilometres of secluded coastline. Only the many impressive Saracen towers, strategically built on the coast, catch the eye everywhere.
We leave the beautiful but touristy Costa Smeralda in the north-east behind us on the first day of our holiday. To acclimatise, we park our home on wheels in a panoramic position overlooking the sea at the Centro Vacanze Isuledda campsite in the small Golfo di Arzachena.
Sardinia - Clear, azure blue water
The first tour, which we start near Isuledda, fulfils all our expectations of cycling in Sardinia: relaxed visits to the nuraghi Albucciu and La Prisgiona near Arzachena, Sardinian delicacies for lunch in a small ristoro, a panoramic ride through the granite cliffs of Gallura with views of the island of Maddalena and across to Corsica. At the end of our tour, we cycle along small sandy bays in front of clear, azure blue water.
The pretty alleyways of Alghero's old town centre are perfect for a stroll. The odd souvenir shop becomes too much for us and we are the first guests at the Ristorante Miques de Mirall on the historic city wall, where Catalan specialities are served alongside Sardinian ones. The Catalan dialect of the town's inhabitants stems from the fact that the town, which is exposed on the west coast, was ruled and colonised by Aragon for a long time. The wide city wall becomes an evening promenade, locals mingle with tourists and lovers; the romantic sunsets are legendary.
Sardinia - pine forests and viewpoints
North of Alghero, the Porto Conte nature reserve and the Capo Caccia marine reserve are located on a headland. On sandy tracks, we work our way with the e-bikes through pine forests to some of the many viewpoints on the cliffs. Back on tarmac, but with equally beautiful views, the second part of the tour takes us along the natural harbour of Porto Conte to the southernmost point of the headland, Capo Caccia.
In the afternoon heat, we descend 654 spectacular steps carved into the cliffs to the Grotta di Nettuno. It is one of the most beautiful stalactite caves in the Mediterranean. Despite a guided tour through the cave, which is a cool ten degrees all year round, we are completely drenched in sweat after climbing back up the Escala del Cabriol. Luckily, beautiful bathing bays await us on the return journey.
>> By the way: the Sardinian mountain villages are home to the highest number of centenarians in Europe. The University of Sassari found that those who grow old are those who work hard, are thin, content and religious. So at least three of these arguments speak in favour of long bike tours across the island.
Sardinia - UNESCO World Heritage Site
Although islanders, the Sardinians are not seafarers, but farmers and shepherds. As "nothing good came over the water", the inhabitants settled inland. After a few days on the beach, we also want to explore the mountains and set off for a unique nature reserve. The Giara di Gesturi rises like a table mountain above the Marmilla landscape. After a steep ascent, we cycle across the uninhabited basalt plateau through cork oak forests and observe the small wild horses grazing in the marshes called "Pauli".
After the globally unique Is Quadeddus horse breed was almost threatened with extinction, the owners of the horses - farmers from the neighbouring villages - were supported financially. The reserve later bought the herds, which have since grown back to 600 animals.
After descending from the plateau, we visit the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi. The largest uncovered nuraghe complex on the island has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. Visitors enter the fortress through narrow corridors and steep staircases. What may cause claustrophobia for some, our daughter finds to be a fun adventure.
Italy's first general strike
Europe's highest dunes and the fine sandy beaches of the Costa Verde, which takes its name from the colour of the local sea, are famous. Less well known is the fact that zinc, lead and silver were mined under inhumane conditions in many places on the wild west coast from the middle of the 19th century. After all, Italy's first general strike was called in the coastal town of Buggerru. The only way to reach Sardinia's most secluded hotel in the middle of the dune landscape at the mouth of the small Rio Piscinas and two beach huts, which cater for many bathers in summer, is via tracks.
In autumn, only a few holidaymakers get lost here. A group of French people use the sandy tracks as a playground for their off-road vehicles. We set off on our two-wheelers on an extensive round trip via the mining village of Ingurtosu and drive along bumpy roads - past mining ruins and spoil tips - to the centre of the former mining industry in Montevecchio. The morbid charm gives an idea of how mining characterised the region for a century.
After a long descent, we meet the French again on the last few kilometres, and we have to interrupt our tour for a while at a ford in a stream because a large film crew is shooting a scene. The "Wild West" of Sardinia is not quite so lonely after all.
Sardinia - Information
Arrival
If you are travelling by car or camper, you can choose between several ferry ports in Italy and the south of France. The ports of Genoa and Livorno on the Italian Riviera are the quickest to reach from Germany. Several ferry companies offer crossings to the Sardinian harbours of Olbia, Golfo Aranci, Porto Torres, Arbatax and Cagliari. It is advisable to book early.
We travelled comfortably with Corsica Ferries - Sardinia Ferries
(www.corsica-ferries.de)
TipBook a night trip! You don't lose a day of your holiday and have a long first day on the island to find a nice location for the first time.
Sardinia - Worth seeing
For a good impression of the Nuragic culture, visit the Nuraghe La Prisgiona near Arzachena and the Nuraghe Su Nuraxi near Barumini; the old town centre of Alghero with its imposing city walls and historic alleyways; Costa Verde with the dune landscapes at Torre dei Corsari and Piscinas; the wild horses on the Giara di Gesturi.
Overnight stay
Sardinia has everything to offer, from simple to luxurious campsites. There are also many beautifully situated pitches where you can spend the night for a small fee. Most of them have a shower, toilet and fresh water. Some of these pitches are located directly on dream beaches or bays. Particularly beautiful: in Buggeru, Cala Domestica and in the bay of the abandoned mining village of Masua. Travellers without a motorhome will find accommodation in all price categories outside the main season.
Travelling time
The best months for active holidays are April to June and October. With school-age children, this means Easter, Whitsun and autumn holidays.
July and August are too hot for cycling. However, some accommodation and campsites are closed in April and October.
Literature
>> Sardinia Mobile Touring Highlights - travelling on the most beautiful routes, www.rau-verlag.de18.90 euros.
>> Baedeker Sardinia, incl. road map 1:200.000, www.baedeker.com22.99 euros.
>> park4nightfree app for finding suitable overnight accommodation with a motorhome.
The paid version for 1.99 Euro monthly subscription or 9.99 Euro annual subscription can also be used offline.
Sardinia - Tours
Tour 1 | 46 km | 722 hm
Pleasure tour around the town of Arzachena with a visit to the nuraghi Albucciu and La Prisgiona and the giant tomb of Coddu Vecchiu as well as a drive along the Golfo di Arzachena with swimming opportunities on small beaches.
Tour 2 | 52 km | 631 hm
On pistes to the dream bays at Torre del Porticciolo and a panoramic trip to the Capo Caccia lighthouse with a descent down 654 rocky steps to the Grotta di Nettuno.
Tour 3 | 31 km | 526 hm
Cork oak forests, cistus roses, water pools and wild horses - round trip across the Giara di Gesturi plateau and visit to the impressive Nuraghe di Barumini Su Nuraxi.
Tour 4 | 48 km | 983 hm
Impressive tour from the dunes near Piscinas on the wild Costa Verde to the abandoned mining settlements of Ingurtosu and Montevecchio.
Tour 5 | 33 km | 507 hm
Lonely loop on tarmac and gravel to small bays on the Sant'Antioco peninsula.
Sardinia - Orientation
