Road trip northern SpainWith camper and gravel bike from Bilbao to Asturias

Barbara Merz-Weigandt

 · 23.06.2022

Road trip northern Spain: With camper and gravel bike from Bilbao to AsturiasPhoto: Patrick Kunkel
Beautifully rugged: the Atlantic crashes against the cliffs of the Bay of Biscay at the entrance to Bilbao harbour.
The rugged Atlantic coast of northern Spain is home to rugged cliffs, evergreen mountains - and one of the most exciting cities in Europe. A road trip with campervan and gravel bikes from Bilbao to Asturias.

Forsch pushes his head through the open passenger window, snorts cheekily and fishes with his soft horse lips for the sunglasses on the seat. Good try. But I'm quicker! Meanwhile, the horse buddy outside is nibbling on the handlebar plugs of the gravel bike on the back of the campervan's rear rack - actually safely connected. But who expects to be attacked by a herd of greedy, half-wild horses?

Bilbao behind us and the peace and quiet around us

We are standing in the van on a mountain ridge in the centre of a huge old iron mine, which has long since become a green natural paradise. Down in the valley, the sea of houses of the city of Bilbao spreads out. But up here it's quiet. I help myself to a round of carrots, which were actually intended for the salad, and lure the pushy visitors away from the camper. The horse family moves on and we get back to what we really want to do: relax. Cooking fresh Atlantic fish on the camping cooker. And enjoying a glass of Basque Txakoli white wine to round off a long, fantastic day of touring on the Basque cliffs around Bilbao.

A really good plan: our plan for the next two weeks is impressively simple. Take the campervan on a long tour through the green north of Spain. A few days by the sea, a few in the mountains. Fold out the folding roof whenever we feel like it. And explore the most beautiful spots between the Basque Country and Asturias by bike. Two days ago, when the first houses of Bilbao appeared in front of us after hours of driving on the Atlantic motorway, we wanted to move on first: the industrial look of the largest city in the Basque Country doesn't exactly invite you to stay. But that was deceptive.

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You can find the complete travel report with all the information in MYBIKE 4/2022 or as a PDF download below the article.

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Lush green hinterland: Asturias is known as the "Switzerland of Spain"
Photo: Patrick Kunkel

The touring area in northern Spain

Cyclists will find a scenically exciting, sometimes physically challenging and fairly relaxed cycling area on the north Spanish coast. Bilbao is surrounded by striking mountains on a river estuary that reaches deep into the countryside. Traffic in the city centre is lively, but not life-threatening like in other southern European cities. In addition, more and more cycle paths (bidegorri) are being built in the city and surrounding areas, many of them on former mine tracks in the surrounding mountains. Bicycles can be taken on the metro free of charge. Most of the urban routes are flat, but in the surrounding countryside you have to pedal hard without an e-bike.

From our location directly on the Atlantic, you can cycle largely flat to Bilbao, 15 kilometres inland. In the other direction, there are lonely coastal roads with little to moderate traffic along the wild cliffs, which invite you to take long, but high-altitude laps.

In Asturias, the winding roads on the cliffs around our main base in Llanes are ideal for extended tours, some of which are completely off the beaten track on gravel. In the high mountains of the Picos de Europa, we travelled on asphalted secondary roads, but even on the main routes, the volume of traffic is bearable (except on public holidays). The considerate local car drivers are very noticeable throughout northern Spain: here, cyclists are respected in traffic in a way that is probably unique in Europe.

7 tour suggestions in Bilbao and Asturias

  • Cliffs and sea geysers. Coastal tour from Llanes, 37 km, 800 metres in altitude
  • Off to the Picos! Jitu de Escarandi from Bulnes, 45 km, 1,800 metres in altitude
  • To the Lagos de Covadonga, 52 km, 1,700 metres in altitude
  • Industry and culture. Guggenheim and Ría de Bilbao, 50 km, 500 metres in altitude
  • Mountains, iron, sea, 61 km, 920 m elevation gain
  • Coastal tour from Sopela, 51 km, 800 m elevation gain
  • Fishing village and Zungenbruch monastery, 47 km, 900 m elevation gain

GPS data

You can download the GPX tracks for the tours in Bilbao and Asturias download here for free or find them in the MYBIKE Collection "From the Basque Country to Asturias" on komoot

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Barbara Merz-Weigandt

Barbara Merz-Weigandt

Editor-in-Chief

Barbara Merz-Weigandt, editor-in-chief of MYBIKE, the magazine for dedicated everyday and touring cyclists, lives on Lake Starnberg. Her great passion: travelling. She has crossed the Alps by touring bike - on the Via Claudia Augusta, the Ciclovia Munich-Venezia and the Alpe-Adria cycle path. She has explored the islands of Croatia and the Lycian coast by motorised sailboat and bike, and has travelled to all the Balearic and Canary Islands by bike. Her favourite place to ride her mountain bike is on the trails in the Bavarian Alps, the Dolomites or on La Palma.

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