General
Corfu is the northernmost of the larger Greek islands. It lies just two kilometres off the mainland on the Albanian-Greek border. The island is around 60 kilometres long and a maximum of 25 kilometres wide. In the northern half, the mountains rise up to a good 900 metres, while the southern half we visited is rarely higher than 400 metres. Corfu is considered a "green island" because of its vegetation. Shady olive trees (allegedly four million) are omnipresent, only rarely are there treeless passages with distant views.
The south of the island described here is somewhat less developed for tourism than the north, but almost every village has at least one taverna. Cycle paths are practically unknown, which is why this easy to moderately difficult round trip runs almost exclusively on low-traffic, sometimes rough side roads. The best times to cycle are May/June (when the sea is still very cold) and September/October. In high summer it is clearly too hot and too crowded.
Arrival
As a well-established destination for German summer holidaymakers, Corfu is served by various airlines from the beginning of May. The usual prices for a return flight start at around 200 euros (without bike transport).
Stages
Day 1:
From Agios Ioannis to Paramona
approx. 35 km, 500 m ascent
Agios Ioannis - Kokini - "Kaizer's Throne" option - Kastelani - Kamara - Aghios Maheos - Paramona
The well-signposted detour to "Kaizer's Throne", a beautiful viewpoint (with restaurant), requires some leg strength. Shortly before Paramona there is a small "pass", but it is not exactly of alpine dimensions. The remaining climbs are either short or less steep. Paramona has a small, well-maintained sandy beach.
Day 2:
Round trip to the lagoon
approx. 25 km, 250 metres altitude
Paramona - Aghios Matheos - Korisia lagoon - Paramona
Aghios Matheos is the only village worth mentioning on the tour and is well worth a coffee stop on the busy main road. The thin spit of land that separates the sea from the lagoon with its numerous seabirds and waders can be travelled by bike, except for a few deep sandy spots. Very secluded beaches in this area!
Day 3
From Paramona to Vitalades
approx. 30 km, 200 m elevation gain
Paramona - Mesongi - coastal road - Petriti - Notos - Perivoli - Vitalades
The road along the east coast with its small harbours and views of Albania and the Greek mainland is the highlight of this stage. The beach at Vitalades is long and secluded, but was completely littered during our stay.
Day 4
Corfu's southern tip
approx. 42 km, 350 m elevation gain
Vitalades - outskirts of Lefkimi - Kritika - Neochori - Spartera - Kavos - Melikia - Lefkimi - former salt works - Vitalades
This stage is characterised by the harsh contrast between the farming villages in the interior of the country and Kavos' Ballermann Mile. A very quiet, rewarding detour to the former salt works north of Lefkimi and to Cape Lefkimi.
Day 5
From Vitalades to Benitses
approx. 40 km, 500 metres altitude
Vitalades - Perivoli - Argyrades - Aghios Georgios - Hiomatiana - Strongyli - Komianata - Gasturi - Achilleon - Benitses
A stage with three highlights: the beach at Aghios Georgios, a long, quiet pass ascent above Benitses and the "Sissi Castle" of Achilleon.
Day 6
from Benitses to Agios Ioannis
approx. 36 km, 400 m elevation gain
Benitses - Kerkyra - Potamos - Danilia - Tembioni - Ropa plain - Kokini - Agios Ioannis
Past the postcard motif of the small Vlachera chapel at the southern end of the airport runway (note: the turn-off to the path across the lagoon is difficult to find), the route leads to the old town of the island's capital Kerkyra, which is well worth seeing and is considered to be the "most beautiful town in Greece". The route then meanders through small villages and many hills back to the starting point of Agios Ioannis
The tour described is based on the customised Corfu cycle tour offered by Wikinger. There is no need to plan the route or look for a hotel, and luggage is transported. In addition, the organiser offers good and inexpensive rental bikes - a welcome offer in view of the expensive and inconvenient air transport. Six stages and seven overnight stays (some with half board) cost 465 euros in spring.
Wikinger Reisen, tel. 02331/904 743,
www.wikinger.de
Worth seeing
Achilleon
The Achilleon, just north of Benitses, was built by the Austrian Empress Elisabeth ("Sissi") as a summer palace in 1890. The neo-Renaissance palace pays homage to Greek mythology with its many statues and its well-tended park is overgrown with exotic plants. The interiors with historical furniture can also be visited. The palace is a tourist attraction, the entrance fee is seven euros. It is advisable to visit during the quieter last hour of opening hours (until 7 pm).
www.achillion-corfu.gr
Viewpoint near Stavros
A view at last! This requires stamina: the stage to Benitses culminates at the turn-off to Stavros. If you deviate from the route and climb another 80 metres in altitude to Stavros, you will reach a large taverna on the right after the village centre. The landlord has marked the non-rideable path up to a rocky outcrop on the left with red paint, which probably offers the best view of the whole of Corfu.
Korission Lagoon
Birdwatchers run after the wading birds in the lagoon with binoculars slung around their necks, curious cyclists cycle to the end of the spit and explore the high, lonely dune landscape on foot beyond a small bridge over the connecting canal to the sea.
Kerkyra's old town
The city of 40,000 inhabitants is centred around an old town with Italian flair. Unfortunately, the cruise operators are also aware of this beauty. When two thousand ship travellers flood the pavement at the same time, the tranquillity is gone.
Accommodation
Agios Ioannis: Hotel Marida
The only hotel in the village is a very charming old house run by an equally charming owner. You can eat in the taverna opposite. Double room/F 45 euros
Hotel Marida, Kentriko Platia, tel. 0030 26610 52410; no Internet
Benitses: Hotel Bellavista
The hotel in the tourist resort of Benitses, run by a young team, is as international as the Italian name of the hotel in Greece. It is not located directly on the beach, but not on the road that runs along it either. Friendly, committed and relatively inexpensive: double room/F from 39 euros
www.bellavistahotel.gr
Ag. Nikolaos, Notos Beach: Hotel Panorama
Perhaps the best place for more than one day's rest is the Taverna Panorama on the third stage. A picturesque, private bay with a sandy and rocky beach, a well-kept park with hammocks and the very relaxed family that runs the taverna are good arguments in its favour. Holiday flat, 40 euros/day.
www.panoramacorfu.gr
Bicycle service
Cycling is not particularly popular among the inhabitants of Corfu. You can hardly expect technical service.
Food + drink
On a tourist island like Corfu, tourist cuisine dominates. The result often tastes like "Greek" food in Germany. The salad is usually convincing due to the fresher ingredients.
One notable exception is the Paxinos in Benitses, about 50 metres inland from the main square: Greek dishes with a wide selection and high quality. Tel. 0030 26610 72339
Maps
Freytag + Berndt: Corfu road map 1:50,000, ISBN 978-3707909562, 8.99 euros
The best map of Corfu, also contains small roads and some hiking trails.
