Suddenly receiving an invitation to the Canary Island of Lanzarote in the middle of winter is almost like winning the lottery without even filling out a ticket. Although the fairly flat topography of the island doesn't promise any radical action on paper, I was sure that we would find one or two worthwhile freeride lines among the many extensive cross-country and enduro trails. I was not to be disappointed.
As the climate is fairly constant all year round and the flight doesn't take too long, a short break in the Canary Islands is always worthwhile - but it's never as welcome as it is now: We turn our backs on the miserable weather at home and head off to the "island of fire and stone". With us: the intrepid, highly motivated media favourite Bryan Regnier and Morgane Such, the young enduro fairy from the south of France. After a short stopover in Madrid, we land in Arrecife, the airport of Lanzarote. From there, we are shuttled to Club La Santa in the north.
"Only the heat can stop our urge to move!"
The luxury of a huge sports resort awaits us. Nevertheless, the first morning is a shock: everyone is already up and about at 7am. Accompanied by loudspeaker music and the cheering slogans of the entertainers, early-morning sport is practised all over the extensive grounds, people sprint to the breakfast buffet and then, energised like champions, throw themselves into the various activities as quickly as possible. The programme includes dozens of different fitness classes, countless ball sports, running groups, guided lane swimming in the Olympic pool, island laps on freely available racing bikes and so on and so forth ... but that's what some people call a holiday! Many Scandinavians in particular seem to be drawn to the club. But it's no wonder - the descendants of the Vikings are known not to let sub-zero temperatures on the pack ice or shimmering heat in the midst of cacti stop them from exercising.
The location of the club in the north of Lanzarote is perfect for us: the southern part of Tenerife's little sister is built up with hotel castles, but the north coast and centre of the island have been spared the concrete. This is where we will spend most of our time. Further west is the Timanfaya National Park, a bizarre lunar landscape of volcanic craters and lava formations. You are not allowed to set foot or use a tyre on these volcanic slopes because the ecosystem is extremely sensitive and traces will be visible for years to come. On the other hand, the trails and tracks between the volcanoes are open to bikers without restriction. There is an extensive network of trails throughout the island and, as always, it is worth hiring a guide - especially if, like us, you want to get the most out of a relatively short stay.
We caught Leon, a hyperactive Chilean joker who is thrilled that he can leave the classic bike trails around the club behind him for a few days to join us on the lookout for a few crisp single trails and possible stunts. Freeriders like us - looking for rather short but spectacular descents - are apparently still a rarity on Lanzarote. Leon is usually accompanied by Nordic endurance junkies who, despite the unfamiliar Canarian heat, are only out to eat up as many kilometres as possible. They set off in the morning white as cheese and return to the club in the evening red as a sheet, but with a blissful grin on their sweaty faces: "And when do we start again tomorrow, boss?"
Of course, we knew that with a maximum elevation of 670 metres (in comparison: Tenerife has 3718 metres), there would be no single trails that wind their way down to the Atlantic in endless serpentines and cross all subtropical vegetation zones. Even if you're a fan of cosy forest trails, you should bring at least one potted plant for your hotel room so you don't despair at the lack of chlorophyll. Although Lanzarote is not quite as bare as the neighbouring island of Fuerteventura, the gardens here also often consist of just a handful of cacti and black volcanic sand, gravel and stones in contrasting colours - a reflection of the nature all around. The landscape is largely moon-like, characterised by solidified lava flows that are so jagged and jagged that they appear completely inaccessible. No wonder: the last volcanic eruptions were barely 200 years ago. They completely changed the geography of the island in a very short space of time, swallowing up a dozen villages and covering almost a quarter of the total area with lava. This spectacular scenery can be admired, for example, from a coastal path that runs west of the village of Tinajo. A bike tour here is not only worthwhile because of the crazy landscape, but also because of the secluded beaches. However, judging by the many car tyre tracks in the sand, rental car drivers also make use of it - it is said that many advertising films and photos are produced here.
"The path is narrow and fast before it suddenly throws us into hairpin turns."
From the famous Mirador del Rio the next day, we not only enjoy the truly marvellous view, but also imagine ourselves on the small island of Graciosa, just off the coast, driving our motocross cleats into the ground and our surfboards into the waves. We also scan the coastline and make plans. Then we decide on our next destination: the cliffs above the extensive beach of Famara. This is where our first contact with volcanic soil will take place. The starting point is the village of Teguise (fantastic town centre, incredible restaurant - more will not be revealed here). From there, follow the LZ-10 towards Haria. On the left of the road you will see a kind of military radar installation. Here you come to a dead end, at the end of which a trail descends into a ravine called Barranco de la Poceta. We are grateful for Leon's shuttle service, but there is nothing to stop us pedalling here under our own steam, the downhill is then all the more deserved. The path is narrow and fast before suddenly throwing us into hairpin turns. This rugged terrain and the abrupt changes are also typical of the other paths on the Canary Islands, only here everything is a little more adventurous.
The vegetation thickens into shrubs and bizarre fat plants. You have to try to enjoy so much greenery in one spot, after all it is extremely rare. Further down, the bends get wider, the trail widens and finally turns into a track that leads into the road to Famara beach. We want to go surfing there at the end of the tour, as the spot is famous throughout the island. The beginners are bustling around the various shops, where you can also hire a board on the spur of the moment. Further back, the cracks and locals meet up, who want to get out on the water after work and prefer to keep to themselves.
The many small ravines in this area offer similar opportunities. If you drive northwards from Teguise on Calle Gadifer de la Salle and then keep left at the edge of the cliff, you will come across a steeply sloping trail. It leads around a massive rock spur and then plunges into the Barranco de la Maramajo ravine. Here you should be prepared for slippery gravel - caution and riding skills are required if you don't want to be thrown off course without any warning. Provided you have it under control, the spot is insanely fast, ultra-fun, but unfortunately a little short. The only thing that helps is lots of repetitions - provided the heat doesn't bring you to your knees.
For Bryan, the previous actions are nothing but child's play. He's getting impatient. So we urgently need to look for more extreme spots. However, we know full well that each run will inevitably be quite short and that there is little chance of shaping anything sensible given the nature of the terrain. In other words, we can forget about jumps unless we have an extra week and heavy equipment. We therefore chose the slopes of the volcanic craters outside the national park. There we carve wide turns into the dark lava ash at Mach 12, trailing huge plumes of white dust behind us. My photographer's heart rejoices.
"Even our guide is perplexed!" - "
We've only just scratched the surface of the potential that Lanzarote offers freeriders!"
Over the next few days, we discover ever more spectacular spots in ever more spectacular scenery. We like the north of the island the best. Even our guide Leon is perplexed: he hadn't even imagined biking at some of the spots in his wildest fantasies, but Morgane and Bryan are hurtling down there as if it were nothing. After a week, we all agree that we have only scratched the surface of the potential that Lanzarote has to offer freeriders: There is an extensive area of steeply sloping terrain to discover, especially in the north-east. Some parts are quite accessible, others are still waiting for explorers with a sufficiently adventurous spirit and mountaineering skills. But let's be clear: Lanzarote is actually primarily a destination for road tours and enduro light mode. Although there are now some providers for guided tours of a more extreme kind (for example on Clublasanta.com or Lanzarote-cycling.com). But the real treasures are yet to be discovered: do some research on the internet, buy a good map and off you go!
INFO LANZAROTE
LanzaroteThe fairly flat island is not the best island for bikers, but there's plenty to discover. Best time to visit: from autumn to spring. Terrain: rough lava trails with a view of the sea.
Ideal bikeEnduro.
Guiding on site:
www.lanzarote-cycling.com
www.mountainbike-lanzarote.com
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Interview with Ralf Petrovski (35), bike guide: "You can always ride in shorts here!"
Ralf, you know your way around the Canary Islands very well - which of the islands are particularly suitable for a winter escape?
Gran Canaria, Tenerife and La Palma are the best places to cycle. Of course, there are also some bans, but the infrastructure is best developed on these islands. El Hiero has recently become a hot tip. Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, on the other hand, are not so suitable because they are very flat.
What is the ideal bike for the Canary Islands?
I recommend 140 to 160 millimetres of suspension travel. Although some areas are very well developed with shuttle rides, you still have to pedal uphill from time to time. Many trails lead through nature reserves, so there is little construction. You mainly ride on natural single trails.
The Canary Islands are volcanic islands, so the terrain is rather rough, isn't it?
That's right, the lava rock is rough. All the Canary Islands are very similar in this respect, but there are also differences depending on their geological age. El Hierro is the youngest island and therefore not quite as steep and rugged. Gran Canaria, on the other hand, has many ravines due to long erosion. But the islands themselves are very diverse. The south is often dry and rugged, whereas in the north there are primeval forests, green and hilly. Each island has its own character.
Is there also a downhill island?
Tenerife and Gran Canaria have large downhill scenes. Although it is often forbidden, there is shuttling and riding on built trails. This is certainly also the case on La Palma. There was even a bike park on Tenerife, which is now reopening around Christmas after a break of a few years. It's certainly not enough for a whole holiday, but it's great fun for a day or two.
Lava rock, sharp rocks - do you recommend special tyres?
I now ride Procore myself, because rocks and scree are indeed very sharp. So I prefer a little more suspension travel and fat tyres.
How do you find the trails?
There are guides on all the islands, which is the easiest; you don't have to worry about anything. But you can also find good tips on the internet and in apps. So you can also travel quite well on your own.
Your tip?
On the larger islands there is endless accommodation. You can look for something locally. However, it is often cheaper to book a flight and accommodation package.
Is it possible to connect several islands?
Yes, island hopping is possible, but it is very time-consuming.
Can you also come in the depths of winter?
This is our peak season. It's always so warm that you can ride in shorts, even at an altitude of 2000 metres. Flights are particularly cheap from 6 January.
