For four days, we followed the long-distance cycle route from Gothenburg to Grebbestad, a section of the North Sea Cycle Route.
Character
Between Gothenburg and the Norwegian border, there are granite humps, the archipelago, in the sea. Their undulating structure continues inland, leading to short, crisp climbs time and again. This tour is therefore not suitable for beginners. The minimum gear ratio is an eight-speed hub.
The route largely follows the course of the sparsely signposted North Sea Cycle Route, which is identical to the Swedish "Cykelspåret" in this section. The route mostly runs along side roads with little traffic and well levelled dirt roads. The main roads, which are sometimes unavoidable, are very busy, especially from mid-June to mid-August.
Tour itinerary
Day 1: Gothenburg - Stenungsund, approx. 60 km
After the tedious crossing of the busy communities north of Gothenburg, the route from Kungälv runs quietly and undulatingly through the inland, then as a cycle path parallel to the coastal road.
Day 2: Stenungsund - Ellös, approx. 40 km
Cross the Tjörnbron bridge, from which you have a magnificent view of the surrounding land and water, to the island of Tjörn. On side roads over to Orust, Sweden's third largest island. The coastal town of Nösund, halfway along the route, is pretty but has no shops.
Day 3: Ellös - Hunnebostrand, approx. 65 km/700 metres altitude.
The stage across the islands of Malö, Flatön and Angön to Fiskebäckskil is a scenic highlight. The small ferries are free, only the crossing to Lysekil costs a few euros. After about two-thirds of the way, the route takes a very undulating turn to the west.
Day 4: Hunnebostrand - Fjällbacka - Grebbestad approx. 50 km.
The fairly straightforward northern direction of the North Sea Cycle Route has an interruption here: the actress Ingrid Bergman spent many summers in the coastal town of Fjällbacka, and parts of Astrid Lindgren's "Ronja the Robber's Daughter" were also filmed here. Even without this knowledge, it is worth visiting the village - and climbing the 75 metre high viewing rock! From Tanum railway station near Grebbestad, there are trains with bike transport back to Gothenburg.
Excursion tip
Kayak centre Grebbestad Phone 0046-525/10930;
Two-seater approx. 40 euros/day. In calm seas, paddling trips in the dense archipelago off the coast are safe even for beginners.
Arrival
Car ferries run from Rostock to Trelleborg and from Kiel to Gothenburg. The Öresund Bridge connects Denmark with Sweden (toll!). http://www.oeresundsbron.com ; http://www.scandlines.de ; http://www.ttline.com ; http://www.stenaline.de .
By plane, e.g. with Lufthansa and SAS, to Gothenburg, from there by airport bus (free bike transport if packed) to the city centre.
Accommodation
Hotel KaprifolHunnebovägen 60, Hunnebostrand, tel. 0046/523-55215; double room with breakfast approx. 100 euros. Family-run hotel on the edge of Hunnebostrand.
The Swedish youth hostels (Vandrerhem) offer inexpensive and often well-kept accommodation. Depending on the standard, an overnight stay costs approx. 10 to 30 euros, for non-members of the youth hostel association there is an additional charge of approx. 5 euros per night. http://www.stfturist.se
Food
The "Josefina W." restaurant is located in Fjällbacka right by the water. Here you can enjoy a delicious lunch buffet including salad and non-alcoholic drinks for only around eight euros. The locals also like to savour it. Josefina W. Pensionat & Restaurang, Ingrid Bergmans Torg 2, Tel. 0525/328 80
Organiser
Viking Travelling (Tel. 02331/904804) organises individual cycle tours with luggage transport on the route presented. The organiser arranges accommodation and transfers and provides maps and route information. Seven days cost from 685 euros (without travelling).
Information
Visit SwedenStortorget 2-4, SE-831 30 Östersund Fax 0046-63 128 137, Tel. 069/2222 3496 (for enquiries from Germany), mailto:germany@visitsweden.com
The full-length article from issue 3/2008 is available as a free PDF download.
