I press the trigger. Nothing moves. I press it again, but the camera remains silent. At some point I realise that my fingers are simply too cold to press the silver button. I shake my hands, put them in my trouser pockets and try to move my fingers. The feeling finally returns, but now the sun has gone. The wind blows grey wafts of mist over from the glacier. So I pack up and follow Andi's tyre tracks in the sand. The weather is playing nice with us again.
We have been travelling in Iceland for a week and a half now. Nature makes it clear to us on the very first day that wind and weather determine whether it will be a good or a bad day here. We fight our way 60 kilometres from Keflavik airport to the capital Reykjavik, against a storm that would have long since been given a gale warning, a first name and a special broadcast on the European mainland. So we change the plan, discard the first part of the route and hop on the bus to the highlands, to Landmannalaugar. This saves us a lot of time. We decided to take the Laugavegur, probably the most famous trekking trail in the country. It leads over 54 kilometres from the lunar landscapes of Landmannalaugar to the forested valley of Thorsmörk, connecting two national parks and passing through a wide variety of landscapes along the way. "The landscape changes as fast as the weather!" The landscape changes as fast as the weather. A phrase that is probably nowhere said as often as here.
In Landmannalaugar, we meet a mountain bike guide who is stopping off here in the highlands with his tour group. "You have to try the trail up there. And the one you can see from over there. And can you see the summit over there?", he almost overflows with insider tips. Although he doesn't earn a cent from us, it's important to him that we discover the most beautiful trails in his country. Last summer, he filmed a few scenes for a video with German extreme biker Harald Philipp, he chats. And this summer a clip for Red Bull.
I enviously take a look at the group's equipment: 4x4 truck, bike trailer, petrol cooker, camp bed. When we ask him about the Laugavegur, he just says: "Incredible trails, but more hiking than biking ...!" Well, let's see.
Over the next few days, we explore the trails around Landmannalaugar that the guide recommended to us and realise that he didn't promise too much. But first we have to carry and push our bikes, because if you want to ride down a hiking trail here, you have to walk up it first. It's already clear that the descent is going to be an experience that not even the Swiss flow trails can compete with. Apart from the lava fields, everything here is rideable. Some of the paths nestle into calf-high, natural berms and the tyres literally bite into the ground. The trails meander like small streams through an incredibly colourful landscape. I pass waterfalls, white columns of smoke and meadows full of cotton grass before reaching the next sheep. Several times I almost collide with one of the large, white balls of wool. Every now and then, there's one in the landscape. After the tour, we always look forward to a dip in one of the hot springs. But even after a cold night in the tent, the oversized swimming pond with water up to 40 degrees helps to revive our spirits. Unfortunately, it turns out that our ultralight sleeping bags are not quite up to the temperatures. We sleep with two pairs of woollen socks, a down jacket, cotton inlet, aluminium blanket and a hot water bottle. We soon realise that the clothes we need for the night must never get wet here. Not so easy with the downpours that often and suddenly sweep across the country as if from a shower head. So we double-wrap everything in bin bags to ensure that no water seeps in anywhere. There's no question of washing our clothes in between. We wouldn't get them dry again. We'd rather smell a little than freeze to death when wet.
After three days in Landmannalaugar, we move on. Most hikers complete the Laugavegur in three to four days, we want to do it in two. We make good progress on the first stage to Lake Alftavatn. We can often even cycle uphill and make good progress. As soon as we have
Leaving Landmannalaugar's colourful mountains behind us, an incredible panorama opens up before us. From a hilltop, we overlook a gigantic plain. Mountains that look like tree stumps sprout from its black and green surface. Between them are reflective lakes and rivers winding in countless loops. And the white of Eyafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull shines on the horizon. "I wouldn't be surprised if a green elf floated across the path right now ...!" Andi remarks in amazement. But instead, dark storm clouds are now pushing their way into the picture from the west. We have to hurry, but unfortunately there is a blocked path leading down into the valley. At some point, however, it starts to be fun, and so we shoot past the right junction in flow. We pedal back again in a downpour and even have to ford the river. At Alftavatn, Andi throws his towel into the grass and is the first to rush into the water. After 100 metres he starts to walk, after 200 he turns around and raises his arms. He is standing in the middle of the lake, but the water is not even up to his knees.
The next morning, we set off in the direction of Thorsmörk. At first, the road leads across lush green meadows and we almost think we are travelling through Ireland. But the green ends after several river fords. Now we are cycling on a highland track through a kind of stony desert. But not for long, then the stones become smaller, the ground drier and grass starts to sprout again. We have now travelled from Ireland straight into Kenya's steppe, so to speak. I suddenly feel hot too! Andi has also pulled his fleece jumper off his body. It's not easy to keep your balance on the bike because of the deep, black sand. The front wheel simply slides off, especially in the bends. The bikes' drivetrains start to grind. Then the chain breaks. But of course we are prepared.
Hunger sets in as we enter the forest of Thorsmörk. Tasty-looking mushrooms and various berries grow to the left and right of the path. Everything is in bloom and it smells like a tea shop. The path now zigzags under low birch trees, but is still easy to ride.
We like it here. Even if we have to realise that the water in Iceland can also be cold. The paths here are very different to those in the north. Above the tree line, they are very loose and sandy, then blocked and littered with stones made of volcanic glass. The latter are a real challenge for our tyres. In the evening, we cook with what the forest has to offer, i.e. porcini mushrooms, blackberries, sorrel and whatever we find in the free food boxes at the surrounding campsites. Those who leave here leave their unused provisions in containers. For four days, we eat pasta, rice, tinned food, fruit and vegetables for free.
The Laugavegur actually ends in Thorsmörk, but almost all hikers continue between the Eyafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers to the sea at Skógar. So do we. Basically, the whole thing would be half as wild. But the heavy rucksack with tent, equipment and bobbing bike on top makes every step on the loose ground a pain. I don't know whether it's the biting wind that's making my eyes water. Or it's the image that they can't take in: Right next to me, the deep blue ice of Eyafjallajökull glistens and behind it, columns of white smoke rise up from wide cracks in the ground. Simply unbelievable.
TOUR INFO
The route Laugavegur is Iceland's best-known trekking trail. It is 54 kilometres long and connects the Landmannalaugar and Thorsmörk nature reserves in the south. It is usually travelled from north to south, with almost all hikers adding a stage to the sea at Skógar. The trail reaches its highest point on the 1116 metre high Fimmvörðuháls plain. There are only a few passable uphill sections, while the downhill sections are often very winding and technically demanding, but usually perfectly trodden by the thousands of hikers' feet. Best time to travel is from the end of July to mid-August. Before that, there is usually still snow on the passes, after which there is increasingly more rainfall.
Equipment Warm and rainproof clothing goes without saying. Even more important, however, are sufficient spare parts for the bike, as the wear and tear on the often grinding surface is immense. And don't forget a warm sleeping bag!
Guided tour The guiding company Icebike offers guided multi-day tours throughout the region, with luggage transport and even jeep and helicopter support. Info: www.icebikeadventures.com
General information
www.islandprotravel.de
You can download the detailed travel report on Iceland as a PDF below, read it in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or buy the issue in the DK-Shop reorder:
