"Oh man, not another one of those things!" Christoph screws up his face and lifts his head to follow the road uphill. Somewhere in Yorkshire, between Westerdale and Rosedale, next to a sign indicating a 25 per cent gradient. This is where the fun stops. The sheep, which have already left the road, return to nibble. All-clear: the tired tourists need to catch their breath. Obviously we have overdone it on the previous hills.
Yorkshire, especially the coastal area of the North York Moors National Park, presents itself as challengingly steep. The climbs strain your muscles as if you were being punched in the thigh. If you don't humbly respect that, you will suffer. Even at the end of a summer season with many thousands of metres in altitude, the constant ups and downs between the Moors and the Dales are not easy to master. Christoph's 31/36 gearing and my 38 to 44 teeth offer little relief. The differences in altitude between the Dales, which are around 100 metres above sea level, and the Moors, which rarely rise above 300 metres, shouldn't really be a problem, should they? Yes, they certainly can, and it gets even more challenging: a few more kilometres and gradients separate us from what is supposedly the steepest road in England, the Rosedale Chimney, with a gradient of up to 33 per cent.
Just like 70 years ago...
Pain aside. Our goal is not to measure ourselves against the laws of physics in a kind of mobile leg press. The strenuous pedalling is part of it, but it is only the way to the goal. To ride in this unique national park landscape, which is so special that the British government decided back in 1952 to protect it and - despite the opposition of many large landowners - make it accessible to the public. Nowhere else in England are there such vast expanses of heathland, and time seems to stand still in the picturesque villages in the green valleys. It's as if the government called "Freeze!" 70 years ago to freeze the passage of time. For fans of charming clay figures, it feels like cycling through a set from the animated film "Shaun the Sheep".
The sight could just as easily come from a stylish hunting fashion catalogue, with stock boots, wax jackets and in reed-green Land Rovers. Anyone travelling through this picturesque landscape will encounter hunting scenes. You can see shotgunners on hilltops or hear bangs from afar as if there were fireworks. Hunting tourism is the most important industry here, more important than sheep farming. Chicken birds such as grouse and pheasant are particularly popular targets.
When scrolling through the numerous online results for local hunting in the evening, it is easy to see through the picturesque façade. For outsiders, some aspects seem strange: hunting here is a pleasure for the upper class and wealthy tourists. Birds are specially fattened in breeding farms and then released to serve as targets for shooters. Over 50 million farmed birds are released across England every year. We hear of hunting weekends costing around €10,000 and promising participants the shooting of up to 300 birds a day, far more than they could consume. Reports from credible sources such as The Guardian newspaper suggest that the animals killed are often buried en masse. These animals, killed for fun, are rarely found on the menus of local restaurants.
Between hunting events and cycling
The brow furrows when reading about hunting events where live targets are shot at and champagne is served between shots. To increase the shooting rate, paid assistants quickly reload the hunters' rifles. In the process, thousands of tonnes of toxic lead are legally scattered in the wild. Native predators have previously been decimated because they could threaten the artificially boosted bird populations (including some protected species). The special landscape of the North York Moors National Park is also characterised by hunting. The open heathland and bracken provide perfect territories for grouse. Without targeted grazing and controlled burning, bushes and later trees could reclaim these areas. In the Iron Age, around 8,000 years ago, deciduous trees still covered the now barren hills.
The pressurised refuelling with this background information briefly confuses me like a wet rag to the face, but on the way the route captures all my attention. Where it goes up steeply, it also goes down steeply. The wide tyres with a maximum pressure of three bar provide additional grip on wet asphalt. Tracks etched into the road surface are evidence of spinning tyres on inclines, where coarse sand and gravel serve as a starting aid. If the winters were as harsh as in the Alps, the 25,000 or so inhabitants of the region would hardly be able to leave their valleys, even with four-wheel drive.
Endless expanses
After an initial struggle with gravity, the climb out of one of the many dales became increasingly gentle. At the top, the sat nav clearly points to a turn-off to the right, away from the road. A roughly gravelled path for off-road vehicles and quad bikes stretches gently across the brown heathland to the horizon. The sky stretches as far as the eye can see, just like in the American West.
It would be negligent not to stop here for a few photos. And then it gets draughty. The wind, which had been pushing us uphill so strongly as a tailwind, forces us to put on an extra layer of clothing when we come to a standstill. There is no forest, not even a bush to protect us from the strong sea breeze. Combined with rain, this would make things extremely uncomfortable - it's not just grouse that are very exposed on the bare surfaces. Although the area has no more rainfall than an average square metre in Germany, we've stuffed solid rain jackets and even rain shorts into our bikepacking bags.
The four-wheel drive track is reminiscent of a track bed in places, alternating between grass and gravel surfaces and gently approaching a small hill. The free-roaming sheep have disappeared faster than the camera can capture them. But there is an unusual sound coming from the carpet of herbs.
While in cartoons animals often chat silently with a human speech melody, we experienced a similar phenomenon on the heath. A bird's head emerged from between the dry heather bushes, characterised by two striking red ridges and a white border around the eyes. This bird, equipped with white "fur boots" on its feet, turned out to be a moorhen, which slyly fled as soon as it caught sight of humans.
The steepest road in England: push or ride up?
The next morning is quiet and calm. The cool autumn mist is in the air, mixed with the smell of leaves and lignite. In front of the idyllic country hotel is the Rosedale Chimney, known as the steepest road in England. The challenge lies directly behind the hotel exit, with a "1 in 3" sign announcing the gradient. After a sumptuous "full English breakfast" with three fried eggs and without much of a run-up, the climb ahead seems intimidating. However, as it is only 150 metres in altitude, pushing would also be an option.
As soon as the climb becomes noticeably steeper, I switch to the 44 sprocket. That's all I can manage, but the first few metres go surprisingly well. I meet a few hikers at the side of the road who wish me good luck with a friendly "Good luck". Good luck with what? Well, probably for this: After a combination of bends, the road goes straight up the slope. Similar to how you imagine a ski jump from below. The front wheel lifts slightly with every kick, time for a standing start. Is it dishonourable to ride in serpentine lines? Oh, just for a moment, nobody can see it ... The rear wheel creaks, your back tenses up, but the really tricky section isn't so bad in the end.
Breathtaking route guidance
The rest of the day exudes a strangely carefree atmosphere. Picturesque villages such as Hutton-le-Hole pass by, while narrow roads wind like gentle loops through the landscape. Patient drivers wait politely for an opportunity to overtake. Green valleys are followed by brown moors that always elicit a "Wow!".
The fact that we discovered this impressive route is no coincidence, but the result of Dominic Barry, an expert in cycle tourism. About thirty years old and in great shape, Dominic works in the national park and promotes cycle tourism. After work, he visits us at the hotel and explains that a national park is also a tourism product that focuses on sustainable profitability. With his finger on the map, he describes the special features of our route, the breathtaking views and the trail park, where mountain bikers can ride on both easy and challenging trails. Dominic has a variety of events in mind that put the park in the spotlight. When asked if he will be taking part himself, he mentions one event on his personal list: In three days' time, Ryedale Cycling Club will be reviving the mountain time trial up Rosedale Chimney Bank, after a lengthy break ...
The most important information about the Gravel Tour Yorkshire
Journey: Ship or aeroplane
Train and ship: Travelling by train and boat offers an impressive experience. Our starting point and destination Scarborough is centrally located between the ferry ports of Kingston upon Hull, which can be reached from Rotterdam, and Newcastle, where ferries arrive from Ijmuiden near Amsterdam. Both services depart daily in the afternoon, travelling overnight and arriving in England in the morning. Ticket prices start at around 120 euros for a two-person cabin. From Hull, there are direct hourly train connections to Scarborough. The train route from Newcastle ends in Whitby, which is also on the route.
Rotterdam - Hull: www.poferries.com Amsterdam - Newcastle: www.dfds.com
Flight and train: The connection from Manchester Airport is relatively favourable. From there, take the train (Transpennine Express) via York to Scarborough in just over two hours. Book a bike parking space.
Favourite travel time
The ideal time to visit is from the end of April to the end of October. Although it rarely snows in the centre of the country, winter can be considered a tough test. In summer, the temperatures are pleasant and not too hot. The heather blossom in September is particularly worth seeing as it is a visual highlight. With 700 to 1,000 millimetres of annual precipitation, the hill country is statistically within the German average.
Culinary delights
A gravel tour only offers limited opportunities for extensive culinary exploration. However, the hotel restaurants at the Owl at Hawnby and the Horseshoe Inn in Levisham surprised us with exceptionally good food, albeit at slightly higher prices than in Germany. Cheaper snacks can be found in the coastal towns. A particular regional speciality is "Yorkshire pudding", which is neither meaty nor sweet. It is a tasty side dish made from choux pastry, traditionally shaped like a small bowl, which is dipped in gravy, usually with meat dishes.
The Indian restaurant in Scarborough provides a tasty vegetarian alternative
Royal Tondoori
10 Queen Street
Scarborough
Tel. +44 1723 354324
tandooriscarborough.co.uk
Bike service
Richardsons Cycles Scarborough
Castle Road 38-40
Scarborough YO11 1XE
Tel +44 1723 352 682
www.richardsonscyclesscarborough.co.uk
Large Cube dealer with workshop, in the centre of Scarborough
Radevents
Yorkshire is known for its cycling tradition. Even though the first two stages of the 2014 Tour de France took place inland, the region offers numerous traditional cycling events. One of these is the mountain time trial up Chimney Bank near Rosedale, which takes place occasionally and is notorious for its maximum gradient of 33 per cent.
Another highlight is the "Struggle Moors", a 160-kilometre race with timekeeping and 2,800 metres of elevation gain, which takes place in June. Registration is possible via ridethestruggle.com. For gravel enthusiasts, there is the two-day bikepacking event "Yorkshire Coast Dirt Dash" with overnight camping. At the end of June, the event challenges participants to complete two stages. Further information can be found at dirtdash.cc/yorkshire.
Information on
The extensive website of the North York Moors National Park (northyorkmoors.org.uk) contains well-prepared information about the park and its nature as well as route tips for cyclists of all disciplines - unfortunately only in English.
You can also find mapped out gravel routes on the website routeyc.co.uk/cycling
Accommodation
Hotels are not cheap, especially in this region, which is characterised by high-priced hunting tourism. Double rooms with breakfast can easily cost 140 to 180 euros. Due to the sparse population, a hotel with its own restaurant is recommended. We stayed in these hotels and were very satisfied:
SCARBOROUGH: Bike + Boat Hotel
1 - 6 Cliff Bridge Terrace, Scarborough, YO11 2HA
Tel. +44/1723/655555
Double room/ F from 130 euros Modern and originally styled, casual hotel with - depending on the room - top views towards the sea. Own bike cellar, restaurant in the building. Advertised as "dog-friendly" and booked accordingly, so no room for dog allergy sufferers.
www.bikeandboot.com/scarborough
ROSEDALE ABBEY: White Horse Farm Inn
Gill Lane, Rosedale Abbey, North Yorkshire, YO18 8SE, United Kingdom
Tel. +44/1751/ 417239
Double room from 145 euros, breakfast extra Traditional, cosy country inn with views and beautiful terrace at the foot of Rosedale Chimney.
www.whitehorserosedale.co.uk
HAWNBY: The Owl
Tel: +44 1439 330180
DZ/F from 170 Euro Small, stylish and dignified hotel in the hamlet of Hawnby. A spot for upmarket country life could be filmed here without conversion work. Very good, regional cuisine (with little choice for vegetarians).
www.theowlhawnby.co.uk
LEVISHAM: The Horseshoe Inn
Tel. +44 1751 460240
Double room/F from 135 euros Family-run country inn with style and charm at the quiet end of the already remote village of Levisham.
www.horseshoelevisham.co.uk
The region
The North York Moors National Park is around 1,400 square kilometres in size and lies in the centre of the Achterloop. It is located halfway between southern England and northern Scotland, on the English east coast north-east of Leeds. The landscape is characterised by almost treeless plateaus up to 400 metres high, while the main valleys are around 100 metres above sea level.
Route character
Despite the manageable route lengths and metres in altitude, the daily stages are challenging. Wind and short but extreme climbs require strength - a suitable gear ratio is strongly recommended to overcome gradients of between 20 and 30 per cent. The proportion of gravel is low overall (less than a fifth of the total route) and varies from fine to coarse-grained. Standard gravel tyres with a width of 40 or 45 millimetres are sufficient. Outside the summer season, car traffic is usually very light. However, some roads are too narrow for overtaking, so patient drivers should be allowed to pass politely. Parts of the route lead through open pastureland. Caution: Sheep at the roadside can be startled and jump into the carriageway. As supermarkets and bakeries are rare, you should always have provisions in your luggage or jersey.
GPS tours to follow
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Routes
Day 1 (red): Surf and Peat | Scarborough - Rosedale Abbey
85 kilometres | 1,300 vertical metres | max. gradient approx. 22%
Depending on the tide, the route can initially lead over a few metres of firm sandy beach before branching off inland and away from the sea. As far as Whitby, the route is mostly undulating on the partly rough "Cinder Track", a former railway line. The section near the village of Ravenscar offers the most beautiful views of the cliffs and the sea. A few kilometres after Whitby, we leave the railway line and a steep hollow path forces us to push. The gravel path to the "Danby Beacon" monument could be bypassed on tarmac, but you would miss out on a scenic highlight. This is followed by several typical climbs around the small settlements in the valleys. A final, long and challenging climb awaits us before Rosedale, apart from the final, manageable metres in altitude to the hotel. The first half of the route consists mainly of gravel, followed by tarmac.
Refreshments: There are plenty of places to stop for refreshments in Whitby, after that it becomes more difficult.
Day 2 (violet): Torture yourself, you ramp sow! | Rosedale Abbey - Hawnby | 81 kilometres | 1,400 vertical metres | max. gradient 33%
After the impressive challenge of the "Rosedale Chimney" with a gradient of up to 33 per cent, the route leads over hilly plateaus to the picturesque village of Hutton-le-Hole. There, a café at the crossroads invites you to linger, especially in bad weather, as the route to Helmsley is challenging and windy. Beyond Helmsley the hills flatten out, but after the National Park boundary they rise dramatically again on narrow roads close to the ruins of Byland Abbey. At the highest point, there is a short detour to the White Horse of Kilburn, a 100 metre long work of art that looks like a quarry from below. For a better view, you can use a drone or study an online satellite map. The stage ends with a tarmac ramp to the accommodation, The Owl at Hawnby.
Refreshments: The petrol station shop in Helmsley is a good place to stop for a break. The route meets the A 170 motorway there and we pragmatically settled down in a bus shelter with snacks. The better-equipped town centre with more shopping facilities is located a little to the west.
Day 3 (yellow): Across, up and down | Hawnby - Levisham
95 kilometres | 1,700 vertical metres | max. gradient 30%
The four stages form a horizontal "figure of eight" that intersects at Danby Beacon, a torch-shaped monument that is already familiar from the first stage. If you have any energy left after the first two stages, you will certainly use it up here. After picturesque little roads behind Hawnby, the route initially leaves the moors and the national park. It takes a pleasantly undulating route past Stokesley and again climbs the barren plateaus to the Torch Monument. This second half of the stage offers a number of challenges. As an alternative to the following gravel section with a rocky pushing passage between Lealholm and Egton Bridge, there is a paved "chicken way". This involves crossing the river in Lealholm on the road and travelling via Glaisdale to Egton Bridge. The longest, steepest climb of the day starts there. For some, however, the challenge might be the 100 metres uphill from Levisham railway station to the village: a 25% gradient awaits as the crowning glory.
Refreshments: Egton Bridge, Horseshoe Hotel with its charming, rustic inn on the outskirts of the village. There are also tables in the garden. During the day there are toasts and tea, as well as beer.
Day 4 (blue): Down to the beach | Levisham - Scarborough
70 kilometres | 700 vertical metres | max. gradient 25%
A few kilometres after the start, the route leads through a family-friendly trail park. Here, mountain bikers can ride on various trails that are also suitable for gravel bikes. The mountains gradually flatten out, but the traffic on the plain increases. Nevertheless, it is worth making a detour to the southernmost point of the tour: Filey, a relaxed seaside resort with a beach promenade and numerous snack options. On the way to Scarborough, it is important to avoid the busy roads. Shortly before the finish, we climb another 100 metres to enjoy the view from Oliver's Mount with its monument and café. This stage offers new impressions, even if it doesn't quite have the charm of the previous sections.
Stop off: Angela's Tea Room in Filey, The Crescent. A classic tearoom with snacks and drinks and great views from the seafront. Only open during the day.
