Most of the Istrian peninsula belongs to Croatia, only a tip in the north-west is Slovenian. The trekking bike tour initially runs for almost 120 kilometres along the Parenzana cycle path, a former railway line from the Austro-Hungarian Empire from Trieste in Italy to Porec (Parenzo in Italian, from which the name of the railway line is derived). However, it is advisable to take the ferry to Muggia in Trieste - information at www.triestetrasporti.it (menu item: Servizi marittimi) - as the first few kilometres through the city are anything but beautiful. In Slovenia, the Parenzana cycle path is almost exclusively asphalted, in Croatia you cycle mainly on rough gravel, which is why it is best to tackle the tour on a mountain bike or a robust trekking bike with a suspension fork (see story). Apart from a few exceptions, there are hardly any gradients worth mentioning, but you do pass through some unlit tunnels!
From Porec, the route then leads mainly on small, low-traffic but well-paved roads through the quiet hinterland over to the east coast of Istria. With marvellous views over the Kvarner Bay, the route continues along the Opatija Riviera to the fashionable seaside resort that gives it its name.
From there, the route leads over the Učka massif into the hilly "Tuscany of Croatia" to Buzet. The ascent from Ičići at sea level up to around 950 metres is pretty brutal; after Veprinac to the top of the pass, the route is peppered with gradients of 14 to 18 per cent in places. You can either take the less steep route a little further north via Male Mune and Vodice or take the bus (www.autotrans.hr(bike transport possible if there is enough space). From Buzet you cycle through Slovenia back to Trieste. You can cycle the Parenzana cycle route in one day, but you can also take three to four days. You should plan at least a week for the entire route through Istria.
Best time to travel
The best time to cycle in Istria is late spring and September. In summer it can get very hot and the coastal towns are hopelessly overcrowded.
Arrival
aeroplane:
Lufthansa offers direct flights from Munich to Trieste. You must contact the airline in good time to enquire about taking your bike with you. The Aeroporto Friuli Venezia Giulia is a good 33 kilometres north of Trieste. During the season (April to Oct.), various airlines also offer flights to Pula and Rijeka.
Car:
It takes around five to six hours to reach Trieste from Munich. The route leads via Salzburg, the Tauern motorway, through the Tauern tunnel and finally through the Karawanken tunnel (both toll roads) at the border with Slovenia. The route continues to Trieste via Ljubljana. An alternative route via Lienz and Udine to Trieste saves you the vignette for Slovenia.
Railway:
At best, it takes eight hours by train from Munich. We recommend travelling with the CityNightLiner (CNL), which runs via Udine. From there, take the regional train and you will be in Trieste an hour later.
It is essential to book bike transport in good time, information at www.bahn.de.
Accommodation
Trieste: Hotel Italia, Via della Geppa, 15, 4132 Trieste, Tel. +39/040/369900, Fax +39/040/630540, info@hotel-italia.it, www.hotel-italia.it
Buje: Casa Romantica Parenzana, Volpia 3, 52460 Buje, Tel. +385/52/725100, http://parenzana.com.hr/de/. Idyllic country hotel directly on the cycle path, fantastic Istrian cuisine, very nice service. (double room with breakfast 80 euros).
Porec: Valamar Pinia Hotel, Špadići 2, Tel. +385/52/451899, www.valamar.comhttp://www.valamar.com
3-star bike hotel not far from the beach, approx. two kilometres outside the old town. Comprehensive service, from bike hire and GPS devices to guided tours (double room with breakfast from approx. 80 euros).
Rabac/Labin: The Valamar Hotel Allegro in Rabac also claims to be a bike hotel, but there's not much to see. What's more, the hotel is a bit run-down and the buffet is of canteen standard at best. If you also want to avoid the rather strenuous climb, the rustic country hotel Villa Calussovo near Labin is the best choice (double room with breakfast from approx. 70 euros).
Opatija/Volosko: Hotel Villa Kapetnovic, Nova cesta 12A, phone +385/51/741355 www.villa-kapetanovic.hr. Comfortable, modern hotel above Volosko, very good restaurant. Be sure to book a room facing the sea, the view to the rear is pretty horrible. (Double room with breakfast from approx. 90 euros).
Buzet: Vela Vrata Hotel, Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7, Tel: +385/52/494750, www.velavrata.net.
Charming boutique hotel in the old town. The restaurant serves truffle specialities (double room with breakfast from approx. 80 euros).
Food and drink
The cuisine of Istria is significantly influenced by the "bella cucina" of Italy, but also by Austrian cuisine - refined with typical Istrian ingredients. For example, white and black truffles, one of the region's specialities. The more noble white variety is often referred to as "Istria's white gold" and the excellent olive oil as "Istria's green gold". Air-dried ham (prsut) is often served as an appetiser. On the coast, fish dishes dominate, although they are anything but cheap. Inland, rustic meat dishes such as wild boar, suckling pig, ombolo chops or various types of manestra, an Istrian stew, are served. Typical seasonal vegetable side dishes in Istria are wild asparagus, wild fennel and, above all, chard. The gnocchi often served as a filling topping are called "njoki" here. Among Istria's wines, some of which are excellent, the white Malvasia and the red Teran are the best known.
Bicycle ser
vice
In addition to guided tours on the Parenzana cycle path, Fiore tours offers various day and multi-day trips in Istria (Tel: +385/52/431397, www.fiore.hr). Rental bikes are available from 20 euros per day or 90 euros per week. The agency offers a shuttle service, brings the bikes to the desired starting point and picks them up again at the finish. They also organise luggage transport from hotel to hotel on the respective stages.
Language
Until the beginning of the Second World War, Istria belonged to Italy. You can get by well with Italian. English and German are often spoken in the tourist resorts.
Currency
Despite joining the EU in 2013, the Croatian kuna is still the official currency in Croatia. The euro has been the official currency in Slovenia since 2007.
Information
In Germany:
Croatian National Tourist Board, Hochstraße 43, 60313 Frankfurt,
Tel 069/2385350, Fax 069/23853520, info@visitkroatien.de, www.kroatien.hr
Internet:
www.histrica.com, www.istrien.com, www.istriabike.com, http://www.bahntrassenradwege.de/index.php?page=parenzana , www.parenzana.net, http://www.turismofvg.it/Ort/Triest, www.opatija-tourism.hr
Literature and maps:
Maps:
Istria, Hiking & Cycling, Kompass, scale: 1:75,000, ISBN: 9783850266994, 9.99 euros
Istria, Pula, 1:100,000, freytag & berndt, ISBN: 9783707907643, 8.99 euros
Travel guide:
Istria, Michael Müller Verlag, ISBN: 9783899536119, 18,90 Euro
Istria, Kvarner Bay, Dumont direkt, ISBN: 9783770195589, 9,99 Euro
The complete article was published in Trekkingbike issue 6/2015. You can read the entire issue in the Trekkingbike app (iTunes and Google Play) or order the issue in the DK shop.
You can download the individual articles as PDF files here.
