Fuerteventura and its top tours [Video, GPS]

The desert is blooming: photographer Ronny Kiaulehn has been coming to Fuerteventura for 30 years now. But it was his 12-year-old son Pietro who first made him realise that there is more than just perfect surf beaches here. A finely branched network of trails is already flourishing in the dust-dry desert hills of the Canary Island. In autumn, the otherwise strong winds die down. This is the best time for the trails over Fuerte's ancient volcanic mountains.

A floorboard creaks, I startle. Then the soft slam of the door. Oh, Pietro is sneaking out of the house again at dawn. With cotton buds in his hand. I already know what he's up to.

Fuerteventura is the second largest island in the Canary Islands after Tenerife and has nothing in direct comparison: no rainforests, no mountain giants, no waterfalls, no banana trees - not even bees. At least not in the wind-exposed north of the island. But what would bees do here? There is nothing on Fuerte that could be processed into honey. Just sand, rocks, dust and lots of wind. That's exactly why Pietro makes his way to the greenhouse every morning. The courgette plants are in full bloom and someone has to pollinate them. With cotton buds if necessary. My son didn't learn this from me, but from my mate Klaus. I came to Fuerteventura with Klaus almost exactly 30 years ago. To surf, of course, like most visitors to the island. Back then, we weren't interested in the barren, desert-dry mountain peaks in the centre of the island. All we cared about was the beach, constant wind and good waves. And Fuerte is still really blessed with that today. But when the wind died down in autumn, we moved on to the next surf spot. To Tarifa or Lake Garda. Except for Rasta man Klaus, who simply stayed here at some point. Nobody could really understand that: "In this desert? And what do you want to live on?"

Klaus now wears his hair short and owns a small property near El Cotillo, in the north of the island, with greenhouses, guest rooms, three dogs and ten cats. He earns his living as a horticulturist - and I visit him regularly with my family.

The whirring sound of a freewheeler now drifts into our bedroom from the courtyard. Pietro has obviously finished dusting the courgettes.

"You promised him that you would continue building the trail today," grumbles Fabiana and buries her head deep into the pillow again. Ah yes, the trail. Our joint project.

An hour later, I'm pedalling with my son on the sandy track towards the Inselberge. I can still keep up well on the flat, but the twelve-year-old is already a few lengths ahead of me on the climbs. But I still have to grin: he has certainly inherited his passion for the island from me. But if it were up to Pietro, we could leave the surfboards at home. Even as a little boy, he insisted that we pack his BMX bike when we flew to Fuerte. And since then, I've been travelling up the mountains more and more often instead of going to the beach. Well, what do you mean by mountains - Fuerte's highest peak is located 90 kilometres south of the island and measures just 807 metres. This doesn't attract fans of altitude metres, nor does it scratch any trade wind clouds in the sky that could provide irrigation. Our manageable ascent therefore takes us through a desert-dry camel hump landscape. The volcanic sand is usually hard-packed due to the strong winds. Sand pans need to be turned around in good time, otherwise the tyres will sink in abruptly. If, on the other hand, you scrape against one of the random lava stones lying around, you have a much bigger problem. For Pietro, these evasive manoeuvres have always been more fun than any Pacman game. I, on the other hand, like this completely unobstructed landscape best. From up here, all you can see are hills of ash sand, the sky above and the azure blue sea beyond. Nothing for the eye to linger on. Not even a track. Just vastness!

But then, about two years ago, my eyes did catch something: Over one of the otherwise pathless camel humps, there was a faintly recognisable line in the evening light that led into the valley. A hint of a trail?
"Maybe it's a remnant from the goatherds," Klaus explained to us over dinner. "But why don't you ask Rob? He and his mates know all about the trails here."

When we reach our goat trail today, Rob is already kneeling in the dust and throwing large stones from the indicated path. Since we first met Rob two years ago, he has usually joined us on our father-and-son rides. Born in Italy, he originally came to Fuerteventura to kitesurf and is already considered an icon in this sport here. But when the wind dies down, he pursues his second passion: discovering trails. Of course, he already knew about our trail discovery. He thought it was high time the old goat trail was reactivated and since then we have been sweeping and shovelling a bit further along our piece of gold. It's now just under a kilometre long and it's a really nice way to shoot through the hills. The fact that we haven't made much progress in two years is because Rob loses interest in digging after a few hours. Then he tells us again about a trail he found somewhere in the spring that was ready to ride, and Pietro drops his shovel.

Today is no exception. The Antigua Loop in the centre of Fuerteventura is currently his favourite tour. A challenging trail that even leads through a pine forest. Okay, we'll have a look at that this afternoon.

Back at the house, we meet Klaus, who is just getting into his pick-up. "You can come with me," says Klaus. "I'm going to Antigua now too." He's got another big job to do. More and more Russians and Brits are buying a property on Fuerte, but they don't want to do without a green garden. And anyone who has full-grown palm trees planted for thousands of euros doesn't want to watch them die of thirst afterwards. So they call Klaus. He started growing basil many years ago and is now a recognised expert in desert irrigation.

An hour later, in the middle of the village of Antigua, we hop off the back of the pickup and head north on tarmac, then turn around and climb 200 metres up to the 670-metre-high Mirador de Betancuria. From this vantage point, you can look northwards into an endless sea of camel hills and on the other side into a red-brown rocky notch with a green valley floor. Pines, pines, palms, agaves and even meadows sprout out of the desert earth like a mirage. "And our trail now leads right down into this valley!" says Rob and rolls off. We ride up and down the hills on a narrow sandy path. The pine trees are very light and only provide sporadic shade, but they smell so intensely of resin that your nose tingles. Until the end of the 16th century, a river is said to have made its way through the valley here, hence the vegetation that is so atypical for Fuerteventura. But even the flow of our journey comes to a standstill at times. In particularly rocky hillsides, the paths have often been hacked into the ground in steps.

Abrupt changes of direction included. And you always pay for a fall on Fuerteventura's sharp-edged volcanic rock with a little blood. So riding mistakes are to be avoided. After 300 metres of downhill trail, we finally reach the road to Betancuria. In the small pilgrimage town, we turn off onto a single trail again and fight our way up the last 250 metres of the route until we can look down into the next valley to Antigua: a zigzag trail as the tour finale! "Are these old goat trails here too?" Pietro wants to know. Rob shakes his head: "No, we have the pilgrimage church in Betancuria to thank for the trails here." Since the 17th century, people have been making pilgrimages over the mountains from all directions on certain public holidays. It took Rob a while to realise that it is always worth looking for trails in such special places. His collection of tours is now really impressive.

"Tomorrow I'll show you my new downhill find at the Mirador de Pájara. But make sure you pack your protectors for this."

We've just ordered our well-earned après beer when Klaus parks his pick-up in front of the agreed bar. There's something to celebrate! He has just decided to get his own bee colony. It's worth a try, and it's already on its way here.

Fuertevenura info

The precinct: Fuerteventura is almost 100 kilometres long and up to 31 kilometres wide, making it the second largest of the Canary Islands after Tenerife. As its highest peak, the Pico de la Zarza, measures just 807 metres, there are no rain-bringing trade wind clouds here. Fuerteventura is therefore considered semi-desert. During the rare Calima weather conditions, the island even receives a supply of sand from the Sahara, just 120 kilometres away. Due to the comparatively low car traffic, more and more racing cyclists are doing their training laps here. The number of mountain bikers is still small, but is growing steadily - as is the trail network.

Climate:
Only 147 mm of rainfall per year - so you can definitely leave your rain jacket at home. Daytime temperatures between November and April: 20-24 degrees. During this time, the otherwise strong winds also die down considerably.

Journey:
The flight time from Germany to Fuerteventura (FUE) is around four hours. Prices for the return flight are around 160 euros outside the holiday periods. Bike transport costs extra, depending on the airline.

Guided tours:
The holiday clubs on the island offer their guests guided tours. Those who prefer individual tours and more challenging trails can join the guides from BKRS (with bike hire and shuttle). Info: www.bkrs.es
Other touring and hire bike providers: www.volcano-bike.com and www.easyriders-bikecenter.com.

Shops & bike hire:
Life Cycles Fuerteventura in CorralejoTel. 0034/928/867323, www.lifecyclesfuerteventura.com
Riders Surf 'n' Bike in El CotilloTel. 0034/928/538928, www.riders-surfnbike.com

Food & drink:
- La MarismaFresh fish and seafood, great atmosphere at the small harbour with a view of the roaring surf, good value for money, Calle Santiago Hierro, El Cotillo Tel. 0034/928/538543.
- La Vaca Azulalso in the old harbour and specialising in fish, but a little more expensive, Calle Requena 9 in El Cotillo, tel. 0034/928/538685.
- El Callaoin the immediate neighbourhood of Vaca Azul, rustic outside, modern inside; specialising in fish and seafood, generous portions at fair prices, Calle Raquena 6 in El Cotillo, tel. 0034/928/538814.
- Restaurante Canela CaféWide-ranging menu - from burgers and vegetarian dishes to chicken tandoori, with live music in the evenings, Calle Coronel Latherta Gonzáles Hierro in Lajares, tel. 0034/928/861712.
- The best cafés with bakeriesEl Goloso de Cotillo, Calle Pedro Cabrera Saavedra 2 in El Cotillo; El Goloso de Lajares, Calle Coronel Latherta Gonzáles Hierro in Lajares.

General information:
All information and accommodation about www.fuerteinfo.net

Fuerteventura: Tour 1 - North Shore Trails

Tour data and tour rating

Data: 57.5 km | 696 m elevation gain | 6:00 h
Riding technique: 2/6
Scenery: 6/6
Difficulty: medium

The GPS data of the tours described here can be found in the download area below the article download free of charge.

Tour description

The extra-large tour around almost the entire northern tip of the island starts in El Cotillo. Mostly with the wind at your back, you follow the tarmac and sandy tracks along the west coast towards the south. Always with a view of the sea and the island's most beautiful beaches. Finally, the route turns inland and climbs up to the roof of the north. From this vantage point, the view extends as far as the neighbouring islands of Lobos and Lanzarote. After a beautiful descent on trails and sandy tracks, the route climbs a second time to Villaverde before returning to Cotillo along the north coast. Take plenty of water with you!

Fuerteventura: Tour 2 - Lajares-El Roque

Tour data and tour rating

Data: 34.3 km | 567 m elevation gain | 3:00 h
Riding technique: 2/6
Scenery: 6/6
Difficulty: medium

The GPS data of the tours described here can be found in the download area below the article download free of charge.

Tour description

This tour takes you right into the heart of the North Island. From the small village of El Roque, the route initially follows a flat sandy track and side roads to Lajares. There, the route takes you up and down an old volcanic mountain with great views. Back in Lajares, you turn off in the direction of Villaverde, to the next panoramic summit, which is twice as long, but also offers an even more beautiful view. In terms of riding technique, the tour is of moderate difficulty. The trails over the compressed sand are easy, but the somewhat wider paths are interspersed with rocks. At the end, it's an easy up and down back to El Roque.

Fuerteventura: Tour 3 - Antigua circuit

Tour data and tour rating

Data: 22.3 km | 1065 m elevation gain | 3:30 h
Riding technique: 4/6
Scenery: 6/6
Difficulty: medium

The GPS data of the tours described here can be found in the download area below the article download free of charge.

Tour description

The most scenic route in the centre of the island. From Antigua, the route climbs 400 metres in altitude on asphalt to the Mirador de Betancuria viewpoint. From here you can see in all directions. Including the green valley through which the trail now leads. The path crosses pine forests and climbs over volcanic sand humps in constant ups and downs. The riding is a little rougher at times. Finally, the path joins the tarmac road that leads back up to Betancuria. There is one last path ramp to climb, then you fly back to Antigua on a zigzag trail.

Fuerteventura: Tour 4 - Pajara-Downhill

Tour data and tour rating

Data: 18.8 km | 399 hm | 2:00 h
Riding technique: 6/6
Scenery: 5/6
Difficulty: difficult

The GPS data of the tours described here can be found in the download area below the article download free of charge.

Tour description

A seven-kilometre descent awaits from the Mirador de las Penas viewpoint near Pajara. First you roll down a few metres on asphalt towards Betancuria, then the trail branches off to the left into the Valle del Granadillo. A sandy path that initially zigzags downhill and then increases in difficulty with drops and rocky steps. Then shake out your hands briefly on a tarmac section before entering the second, significantly more flowy section of the trail. At the small church, the descent rejoins a tarmac road that leads up to Pajara. A shuttle takes you straight back up to the starting point.

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GPS data: Spain - Fuerteventura/Canary Islands (pdf)