Mountains of waves crash into the rocks below me and then roll back into the sea, dragging a white carpet of foam with them. I squint from my cliff ledge through the salty spray and am completely mesmerised by this violent scenario. Suddenly, fear plunges like a dagger into my chest: what a stupid idea of mine to tackle this 200-kilometre tour over the sea cliffs. I'm afraid of heights! With trembling knees, I feel my way back to my bike. Just get away from the cliffs. With the handlebars of my bike in my hand, I already feel much more secure and my eyes are now focussed on the trail again. The trail winds up and down along the edge of the cliff until it disappears behind a small climb. If I can make it up there without falling to my salty death, then there's another great descent to a sandy beach waiting at the top, I tell myself. Man, I'm even scared of heights at sea level, I realise in amazement and head for the trail with a flickering pulse. Cliffs, the narrowest single trails and a fear of heights are the main ingredients of our trip so far. But it's only day one of our four-day epic ride on the Cami de Cavalls. This marked bridle path runs all the way around the Balearic island of Menorca - and will take us around bays with turquoise-coloured water, past white sandy beaches and through oak forests. There will also be exciting descents, according to the description. The only constants on this tour will probably be the straight trail and the view of the sea to the right. Hopefully these two views won't make you tired at some point.
The Cami de Cavalls takes you 180 kilometres around the Balearic island of Menorca.
THE TRAIL - CREATED FOR PIRATE DEFENCE
The Cami de Cavalls is an old bridleway that connected the lighthouses around the island in the 16th century. Back then, people wanted to see the dreaded pirates sailing in at an early stage. This dark chapter in history has of course long since been closed, but in 2010 an islander remembered this circular route and managed to restore it. Today it is for bikers, hikers and horse riders. It was not difficult to get the two enduro aces Julia Hofmann and Karen Eller interested in this great ride on Menorca. Although the girls did look a little incredulous. After all, the island, with its peak only 358 metres high, is not exactly known among bikers as a top destination. Rather for its beautiful bathing bays. You pass a total of 216 beaches on the bridleway. But it's not flat at all: it's actually constantly up and down along the coast. The path cuts through headlands, climbs up steep rocky steps and then drops back down to the coast with a swing. On our four-day trip, we burn off a total of 3700 metres of brake pads.
Of all the cities in Spain, Mahon sees the sun rise first. But as we approach the island's capital, there is no sign of the sun. A packet of storm clouds is just leaving. We pedal somewhat nervously to the start of the trail in Sa Mesquida. We have hardly any idea what awaits us over the next few days. An old lighthouse marks the start. The Mediterranean is extremely choppy, the waves are lashing like the Atlantic.
ALWAYS STRAIGHT AHEAD AND THE SEA TO THE SIDE
Our rear wheels spit out small fountains of gravel as we wheeze up the first climb through a meadow. At the top, the path immediately turns into a descent that leads down to the next sandy bay. Everything flows nicely. This is the pattern for the next four days: ascent, descent and the whole thing again. We hop down wooden steps, push our bikes over wide, empty beaches and pedal along wooden footbridges across marshland. Here and there, herons and stilts trudge through the shallows - completely unimpressed by what we are doing.
As the Cap de Favaritx lighthouse comes into view, we have reached the north coast of the island. An angry wind blows in our faces. It's nice that our trail is now seeking the shelter of the forest itself. We have now been on the road for four hours, but have only completed half of the planned 45 kilometres.
"Many bikers think that they can easily complete the stage in three hours," says Joan Febrer Torres, who we meet in the evening before dinner: "I always see their incredulous faces when I tell them that it will take them seven hours." The boss of the guide agency Cami De Cavalls 360 is now grinning into his coffee cup. We grin back. Who could have guessed that there would be 1225 metres of elevation gain on the route? Dead tired, we drag ourselves back to our accommodation in Ses Salinas. "Are you sure you know what you're doing?" asks Daniel, our hotelier, worriedly the next morning, pointing to my 15-kilo rucksack.
"I'm afraid you'll run almost everything on today's stage." Daniel is particularly worried about a nine-kilometre section near Binimel-la. Apparently a chain of unrideable ascents and descents. He hands us huge sandwiches to say goodbye. We devour them greedily on the hill above Els Alocs. We plop down in the shade of a 3000-year-old stone ruin called Tayalot. The trail section that Daniel described as so threatening is just behind us. We struggled with the climbs for two hours, but we just cranked and trudged along stoically - and eventually it was over. However, we only pushed for a maximum of 15 minutes and were kept happy with a crisp descent each time.
On the map, Cala Morell looks like a larger place. We hope to top up our water reserves there and have a coffee. But the only sign of life is the sound of renovation work being carried out on holiday flats. A sound, by the way, that booms across the entire island in March. So we have no choice but to tackle the rugged limestone plateau between Punta Nati and Ciutadella with empty water bottles. Ciutadella used to be the capital of the island before the British moved the official seat to Mahon around 1700. The next morning, we rumble almost willy-nilly along the cobbled streets of the town. The 3000 metres of elevation gain over the last two days have really sapped our strength. We are now halfway round the island and it feels like we have been travelling for a week, we have experienced so much. But the next two days should now feel like we've changed islands.
A fast, flowing trail leads through Ciutadella's suburbs, winding its way over flat rock slabs and finally spitting us out at the south-westernmost corner of the island. The sun comes out. The wind dies down. And in the distance, the coastline of Mallorca floats on a shallow sea. Today we manage half of the day's 48 kilometres in just two hours. No mean feat, we've only climbed a paltry 40 metres. But it's a false sense of relief that lulls us to sleep.
We push the bikes over a white sandy beach where the azure blue water sips. Then we push the bikes over rocky paths directly along the coastline. Always careful not to catch a flat tyre from a sea urchin. But the Cami de Cavalls has even more surprises in store. In the afternoon, we cross several gorges, which again involve steep climbs and descents. The last downhill was even 600 metres long. It's just a shame that we then have to pedal back up to Sant Tomas for our third overnight stay.
Jesus Florez Fernandez welcomes us to Sant Tomas with a smile on his face. He is the manager of our flat, which we have booked in advance. His house doesn't actually open for another six weeks, but Jesus has made an exception for us. Like all the people we have met here on Menorca, he is proud that we have travelled all this way to ride our bikes. The only thing he didn't manage was dinner. He repeatedly apologises for having to take us to the nearest village, Es Migjorn Gran, by taxi for dinner. We are served a fabulous meal there, accompanied by various cervezas.
On the south coast, the path suddenly separates from the sea and leads us through small oak forests. Here we are greeted by a whole battery of smooth natural steps, which are a little slippery in the shade of the trees. We wind past reddish rock caves and around almond trees. Whole clouds of pink-coloured blossoms sprout from their branches. The path now clings to the Cala en Porter, where we pass the first Irish pub and immediately afterwards an Indian-Chinese restaurant, perhaps the most bizarre combination a restaurant can offer. This is the other side of Menorca - the one with parasols, beach towels and nightclubs. But shortly afterwards, the trail sucks us back into a steep downhill section that demands our full attention. There it is again, the sea. It will accompany us again for the last 14 kilometres to Mahon. This last section alone is as varied as the last three days put together. Sometimes the path cuts through the green fields like a soft, orange-coloured ribbon. Then it narrows again into a wild rut, wedged between high stone walls.
As we pedal past the Torre de Penjat, the last old lighthouse on our tour, I think of the pirates of yesteryear. If one of these pirates were to appear in front of me now, would I be able to escape him on my bike? It would probably depend on whether the trail was going uphill or downhill. Along the beach or over one of the exposed cliffs. But perhaps it would also depend on whether I still had the energy left to pedal fast. And that would make the answer clear: no, I wouldn't escape it. After 180 kilometres on this old trail, including 3700 metres of ascent and 3700 metres of descent on brilliant trails, I simply don't have the energy. Not bad for what is actually a "flat" island.
Information about the Cami de Cavalls on Menorca
The Cami de Cavalls can be travelled all year round. However, there are no direct flights between December and April and hardly any accommodation is open. You can start the route in either direction and from any location. If you allow yourself 5 to 6 days, you can also enjoy the beautiful beaches.
Accommodation We spent the night here: In Mahon at Es Castell (50 euros, artiemhotels.com), in Ses Salinas (30 Euro B & B, hostalportfornalls.com), in Ciutadella (35 Euro B & B, sethotels.com) and in Sant Tomas (25 euros, hamiltoncourt.com).
Info Under www.camidecavalls360.com you will find maps, GPS tracks, accommodation, luggage transport and rental bikes.
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