The anticipation for the next few days is huge as I get on my bike in Dobbiaco, in the middle of the Dolomites, in the most beautiful spring weather. From here on, I will always cycle southwards. It's my favourite direction on the Drau cycle path because it seems to be mostly downhill. This is not always true, as there are a few steep climbs, especially on the second half. But one thing is certain: with every turn of the pedals I cycle further into southern flair.
Mighty mountains, well-tended nature: South Tyrol and East Tyrol
For the time being, the cycle path mostly follows the Drau, which is still "young" here. Since its origin in the Toblacher Feld, the little river has not yet been able to hold much water. The Drau widens from kilometre to kilometre. It is the many small streams and waterfalls coming out of the Dolomites that lead to a steady increase in water masses. The Pustertal valley, with its larger towns of Toblach, Innichen and Sillian, but also several tiny "picture-book villages", is narrow and seems cramped. For many tourists, who are purely city dwellers, this narrowness is often difficult to bear, despite the uniqueness of the landscape. But I enjoy the steep slopes of the Dolomites on the right and the lush hills and meadows on the left. Many buildings in the small villages, as well as several churches and castles, point to an ancient, Gothic cultural area. There are alluvial forests, sections with birch avenues and flowering meadows in the main colour yellow.
I always linger briefly at rest areas located directly on the Drau. They are lovingly laid out, usually have wooden or stone tables and are suitably integrated into the sensitive riverbank regions with their gravel banks. On nicely designed information boards, I read lots of interesting facts about flood protection and nature conservation, which is very much in evidence here in the Puster Valley.
I don't miss out on Lienz, the capital of East Tyrol, the "gateway to the south". The main square with its 17th century Liebburg castle is a lively, cheerful hubbub, with locals and visitors alike clearly enjoying the blossoming of spring. My thighs have to work hard on the short but extremely steep section up to Bruck Castle. Once at the top, I enjoy the beautiful garden with its small lake. The imposing castle was built in the 13th century and there is a museum inside, including paintings by the famous painter Albin-Egger-Lienz.
The fields, meadows and hills of the Lienz valley floor are particularly clean and fertile. No wonder, as the local farmers are proud of their agriculture with regional, organic products and care for nature with dedication. During a visit to Tyrol's only Roman town, I marvel at the neatly excavated walls of the ancient Roman settlement of Aguntum, which are steeped in history. As I cycle on towards Carinthia, it smells wonderfully of meadow flowers and a light tailwind pushes me southwards.
Mountain and lake scenery: Family-friendly Carinthia
I take a quick look back at the mighty Lienz Dolomites before crossing from East Tyrol into Carinthia just before Obertrauburg. The longest section of the Drau cycle path runs through Austria's southernmost province. It's a weekend and the weather is glorious, so I meet lots of cheerful families in the morning. The beautifully laid out cycle path and the particularly lovely riverside spots along the Drau are not just a paradise for children.
Via Oberdrauburg and Sachsenburg with their historic town centres, the route leads through wetlands and floodplain landscapes to Spittal an der Drau. The town is known for its lively cultural life, such as the comedy theatre at Porcia Castle. On the rest of the route to Villach, rugged mountain ranges, alpine bathing lakes, meadows and forest sections are strung together like pearls on a necklace. In the centre of Villach, right in front of the parish church of St. Jacob, I strike up a conversation with a local. He tells me that the town has made great efforts to create a functioning cycle infrastructure in recent years. On my tour through Villach, I cycle almost exclusively on cycle paths or cycle lanes.
The further I get towards the state border, the wider the Drau becomes. There are many reclamation areas, but also reservoirs. For example the Feistritzer, Ferlacher or Völkermarkt reservoirs. The cycle path either runs along the embankments of the dammed water or is lowered, but also moves away from the Drau again and again, into shady sections of forest. There are bird watching huts, areas with rare plants that feel particularly at home here and many small side arms. It is now hilly and there are some steep climbs. In the Jauntal valley it gets much narrower again. Suddenly I find myself in front of a monumental bridge: At almost 100 metres high, the Jauntal bridge is Europe's highest railway bridge with its own level for pedestrians and cyclists. Immediately afterwards, another highlight: the Santa Lucia suspension bridge, 140 metres long and 60 metres above the Feistritzbach ditch. One of the most famous cycle bridges on the Drautal cycle path.
Idyll and culture: Slovenia and Croatia
A few kilometres south of the two bridges, I cross the border between Austria and Slovenia without any checks. Unthinkable before joining the EU. Instead of border officials, I am now greeted by a large welcome board with lots of information about the rest of the Drava Cycle Route.
The Slovenian Drava Valley is rather narrow due to the surrounding low mountain ranges, with many wooded areas and small, quiet villages that lie directly on the Drava. I have the option of getting on a raft as far as Maribor, as the local raftsmen used to do for decades. However, I decide in favour of the part of the Drava cycle path that now leads from Brezno via Podvelka and Fala for the next 20 km into the hinterland and also goes uphill for about 6 km. Challenging for legs and lungs, but there are plenty of hidden gems to discover here. For example, authentic farms, many small chapels, alpine meadows that resemble the mountain pastures in my home country of Tyrol. The forests here are some of the most beautiful in Slovenia.
It had been rather rainy since my start in the morning, but shortly before Maribor, the second largest Slovenian city, the weather clears up and the sun shines. As if to show me the way into the old town centre with its Renaissance-style town hall built in 1515. Maribor Castle, with its knights' hall and ancient frescoes, is also illuminated by the sun. What I didn't realise: This Slovenian city is home to the oldest grapevine in the world. It is located in front of the "House of the Old Vine".
Cycling in the sunshine is marvellous. I "fly" further south, because from Maribor onwards the cycle path is only flat and again I'm lucky: the wind blows at my back. The landscape is idyllic and peaceful. Ptuj Castle, one of the noblest castles in Slovenia, looks like something out of a fairy tale to me. The tranquil area is also used as a nesting ground by countless water birds and there are several lagoons around the small town of Ormož. They are Slovenia's most important stopovers for migratory birds.
I cycle the last 70 kilometres of my journey in Croatia. The Drava flows in a "zig-zag", constantly switching back and forth between Slovenia and Croatia. The banks, gravel banks, lagoons and the neighbouring forests and meadows are idyllic natural beauties.
On the macadam road along the Drava, I cycle into Varaždin, one of the oldest towns in Croatia. The monasteries, churches and palaces look old and awe-inspiring. They point to a lively cultural life. The town's pavement cafés are full to bursting. On the streets, large tables with menus tempt you to stop for a bite to eat. Croatian cuisine is delicious, but also a little hearty. Typical dishes include Ćevapčići with ajvar, bean stews, fish with paprika, a special octopus salad or pljeskavica, a Croatian burger.
At the finish in Varaždin
A few days ago, I got on my bike at the foot of the Dolomites in glorious spring weather to cycle more than 500 kilometres to get here. Now I'm standing on my bike on the cobblestones in the centre of the old town of Varaždin. Again in warm, pleasant temperatures. I take a deep breath and feel a sense of satisfaction. I park my bike in my accommodation, a small hostel, and then take a look around the historic town. There is a lot to see in Varaždin, the city that was awarded the "Green Flower" for the cleanest and most well-kept city in continental Croatia. And I'm looking forward to a hearty Ćevapčići with ajvar.
GPX data
The GPX data for the 7 stages can be downloaded from the DK tour portal
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Info and tips on the Drau cycle path
Arrival (Start Dobbiaco)
CarPustertal, federal road SS49 (from the west/Sterzing 79 km, from the east/Lienz 47 km). Traffic information: www.verkehr.provinz.bz.it; Charging stations for electric cars: www.greenmobility.bz.it/green-mobility/ladesaeulen/
RailwayStop for regional and express trains, timetables/reservations: www.trenitalia.com; www.oebb.at; www.bahn.de
Special information on the Pustertal Valley railway and bike transport: www.pustertal.org/en/freizeit-aktiv/rad-mountainbike/bike-bahn/
Tip: On international/interregional trains, it is essential to book bicycle transport in advance!
Return journey
Special shuttle services with bike transport, from various destinations back to the starting point (intermediate stops possible). Info: www.drauradweg.com/de/infos-tipps/transport/
Overnight stays
A wide variety of options along the entire route, in all price categories, from hotels to camping.
Special feature "Drau cycle path hosts": Certified accommodation, specialised for cyclists, close to cycle path, very good price-performance ratio, bike cellar, bike infrastructure, recognisable by quality mark, info: www.drauradwegwirte.at/de/
Author recommendations (suitable for the stages, different price categories):
Lienz: Dolomitenhof, www.dolomitenhof-tristach.at
Spittal: City-Hotel Ertl, www.hotel-ertl.at
Villach: Voco, www.villach.vocohotels.com
Ferlach: Plasch Inn, www.gasthof-plasch.at
Lava mouth: Gasthof Hüttenwirt, www.gasthof-huettenwirt.at
MariborCamping/"Glamping" Chocolate Village, www.chocolatevillage.eu
VaraždinHostel Stara Vaga, www.visitvarazdin.hr/stara-vaga
Food and drink
Inns (many with guest gardens), cafés and rest areas with small (often private) pubs. Regional dishes in all regions.
Tip: As the Drau cycle path always runs outside the towns, larger purchases should be made at the stage starts or finishes.
Info: www.drauradwegwirte.at/de/gastronomie
Stages & sights
Start Dobbiaco/South Tyrol - finish Varaždin/Croatia, total 510 km, pure travelling time
1 Dobbiaco - Lienz (49 km, up 130 m / down 650 m, 100% asphalt, approx. 3.5 hours)
- Vitalpinum,
- Garnitzen Gorge
- Lienz Old Town
- Roman excavation at Aguntum
2 Lienz - Greifenburg - Spittal (78 km, up to 490 m / from 625 m, 80% asphalt, 20% paved, approx. 4.5 hours)
- Herbal village Irschen
- Gaisloch Gorge
- Berg im Drautal
3 Spittal - Villach (40 km, up to 120 m / from 202 m, 70% asphalt, 30% paved, approx. 2.45 hrs)
- Spittal Porcia Castle and Early Medieval Museum
- Villach with city museum
4 Villach - Ferlach (51 km, up to 320 m / from 390 m, 65% asphalt, 35% paved, approx. 3.5 hours)
- Rosegg Castle with labyrinth and zoo
- Celtic world Frög
5 Ferlach - Lavamünd (67 km, up to 575 m / from 635 m, 70% asphalt, 30% paved, approx. 4.45 hrs)
- Side trip to Lake Klopein
- Museum Liaunig
- New house
6 Lavamünd - Maribor (80 km, up to 1,050 m / from 1,100 m, 70% asphalt, 30% paved, approx. 6 hours)
- Falla power station
- House of the old vine
- City of Marburg
7 Maribor - Varazdin (87 km, at 50 m / from 150 m, 80% asphalt, 20% paved, approx. 6 hrs)
- Old towns of Ptuj and Varaždin
Best overview under: www.drauradweg.com; www.dravabike.si
General information
Drau cycle path: www.drauradweg.com; www.dravabike.si/de
Regions: www.suedtirol.info/de; www.osttirol.com; www.radland.kaernten.at; www.dravabike.si
Cycling maps: www.esterbauer.com/bikeline/drau-radweg
Tip: Drau cycle path app in the app store
