Albania lies between Montenegro and Greece on the Mediterranean Sea. It stretches a good 300 kilometres north-south and a maximum of 140 kilometres east-west. The country is extremely mountainous with numerous peaks over 2500 metres, especially in the north and east. The national language is Albanian, foreign language skills are rare in the country.
Due to the numerous climbs, some of which are over 10 per cent steep, mountain gears are a must.
ARRIVAL
By plane to Tirana. Direct flights from Germany with Lufthansa, cheaper with Adria Ariways (www.adria.si(bike transport 70 euros one way) via Ljubljana to Tirana. A train transfer is possible from Tirana to the start in Pogradec; it allegedly costs only 3 euros, but takes over 7 hours. In principle, the (faster) long-distance buses also take bicycles; they serve the route to Pogradec several times a day. EU citizens only need a passport to enter the country; there is no visa requirement.
BEST TIME TO TRAVEL
The route described leads to altitudes of over 1000 metres, but also along the coast. In between lie extreme
extreme climatic differences. In our opinion, the ideal time to travel is between mid
April to the end of May. The late season lasts from mid-September to the end of October.
ETAPPEN
Stage 1: Pogradec - Pogori - Pojan - Korçë; 50 km, 500 metres difference in altitude
Stage 2: Korçë - Ersekë - Gërmenj; 75 km, 1300 metres in altitude
Stage 3: Gërmenj - Leskovik - Përmet (transfer to Gjirokastër); 50 km, 600 metres difference in altitude
Stage 4: Pass Muzinë b. Gjirokastër - Dermish - Butrint - Sarandë; 84 km, 500 metres difference in altitude
Stage 5: Sarandë - Himarë, 54 km, 1000 metres in altitude
This is the route of the organiser's tour. The transfer on day 3 can also be bridged by bike (with an extra day).
OUTLOOK
www.albaniantourism.com
EAT + SLEEP
In addition to the many roadside eateries, here are two restaurant tips that are not immediately obvious:
On the third day, seven kilometres before Përmet, a small road branches off to the right to the Benje thermal baths. After about two kilometres, there are two inns on the left. In the second of these, with a shady terrace right next to a small stream, we enjoyed a sumptuous Albanian meal for around 10 euros per person including drinks.
Bar Ujvara is located in the centre of Borsh on the fifth stage. Its secret is the garden at the back. A cooling karst spring flows around the tables on the terraces. The cuisine is rather average.
A particularly charming place to stay: the Potami Beach Hotel in Himarë (last stage). Quietly situated at the southern end of the bay, this family-run hotel is right on the beach. Good cuisine, beautiful rooms with sea views, especially on the top floor. Double room/F 30-40 euros; tel. 039-322611
MAPS/ LITERATURE
Meike Gutzweiler: Albania. Reise Know-How-Verlag 2012, 22.50 euros. Up-to-date, also with critical comments.
Road map of Albania 1:200,000, Freytag + Berndt 2013, 10.00 euros. Up-to-date, clear map with route and elevation information, sufficiently accurate.
ORGANISER
Island hopping, www.inselhuepfen.de
Downloads:
Barbara Merz-Weigandt
Editor-in-Chief
