Water can be damn expensive. In certain high-end restaurants, the water sommelier serves a bottle for 20 euros - without batting an eyelid. Here, in the Sudetes, the bottle costs more: several hundred metres extra. A price that none of us want to pay today. Somewhere up there must be a spring where we could at least refill our water bottles. But we only have enough energy left to set up camp. And there's still a small sip of water left.
Sure, the Odra and Elbe rivers have their source in the Sudetes, the famous Schneekoppe (1602 m) is covered in rain clouds and the associated Jizera and Giant Mountains attract enough hikers to make even managed huts worthwhile. But for our trip we travelled to the Reichenstein Mountains - to the wild Eastern Sudetes. Not because there is no water, but because the Czech-Polish border runs right over the ridge of this low mountain range. A guarantee for smuggler and patrol trails. What's more, there is supposed to be a high-altitude trail that runs along the entire ridge for several days. Packed with provisions for several days, a sleeping bag, tent and absolutely no idea what kind of trails await us, we set off on this mission five days ago.
In six challenging stages from the Międzyleska Pass along the Czech-Polish border to Złoty Stok.
Stage 1: Międzyleska Pass (534 m) to the Śnieżnik summit (1425 m)
From the pass, follow the green route in a north-easterly direction along the Polish border. It leads quite steeply up to the Little Snow Mountain and on to the wide mountain pasture Hala pod Snieznikiem. There is a hostel here for overnight stays. At the Malý-Sneznik summit, the route leads directly along the border, beyond the marked route. Simply follow the narrow trail to the highest point, Snieznik. A total ascent of 900 metres awaits. But all in one go and extremely steep. You may have to push.
Stage 2: Śnieżnik summit (1425 m) - Płoszczyna Pass (817 m)
Continue along the border. Simply follow the green markings. Exciting descents and plenty of beautiful views of the valleys await. Until the trail dives more and more into the spruce forest and is a lot of fun again. At the end of this stage, you come across former border buildings and crossings. This is the only point on the tour where you can get something to eat and drink. But only at weekends!
Stage 3: Płoszczyna Pass (817 m) - Iwinka summit (1075 m)
Today there is a lot more uphill again, but not as steep as on the first stage. You simply continue to follow the red and white boundary markings. However, the trail now becomes rougher. In places it leads through boggy marshland, and every now and then a tree lies across the path. Instead, the area becomes more and more wilderness. You won't meet any more hikers and there are plenty of nice places to camp!
Stage 4: Iwinka summit (1075 m) - Kowadło summit (989 m)
The toughest stage for man and machine. If you're not in top form in terms of riding technique and fitness, you won't have any fun here. What's more, the border trail here is very sparsely marked, if at all, and you need good orienteering skills. However, you will be rewarded with the tingling happiness of an explorer. If you don't feel up to the effort, simply follow the green markings. It bypasses this tough section of the border trail and leads directly to your destination, the Kowadlo.
Stage 5: Kowadło summit (989 m) - Heidelkoppe summit (899 m)
The stage with the longest singletrail section. At an altitude of around 900 metres, it leads along the mountain ridges. Always slightly uphill and downhill. Technically, however, the trail is mostly challenging. Although you can occasionally see a village in the valley below from up here, this section makes you feel like you're in the lonely mountains of Canada. Finally, it is worth climbing up to Heidelkoppe. A truly magnificent view awaits you there. And don't forget to pick blueberries!
Stage 6: Heidelkoppe summit (899 m) - Złoty Stok (348 m)
A steep downhill and the trail unfortunately comes to an end. A gravel road leads through an agricultural landscape to Zloty Stok (approx. 10 km). But here there is finally something to eat and drink again!
The precinct
The Sudetes are a low mountain range in the border triangle between Germany, the Czech Republic and Poland. In total, the Sudetes are 310 kilometres long, 30-45 kilometres wide and are geographically divided into various sub-mountain groups. Highest point: the Schneekoppe (1602 metres) in the Giant Mountains. This tour along the Czech-Polish border leads through the Eastern Sudetes. Here you rarely encounter hikers, but you do encounter boundless wild nature. The route is therefore only recommended for real adventurers with good fitness and riding technique.
Journey
There are train connections to Międzylesie, but travelling by car is more convenient: take the A4 motorway via Görlitz to Wroclaw and continue on road no. 8 to Klodzko. It is best to leave the car here and continue by train: the starting point of the tour is the Międzyleska Pass (Mittelwalde Pass). Another possible starting point is the village of Petrovićky.
Overnight stay
There are two hostels near the Blueberry Trail: Śnieżnik Hostel (Polish side) and Paprsek Hostel (near Palaš Mountains, Czech Republic). There is also the Schneeberg-Baude (refuge) on the eastern flank of Śnieżnik. However, they are not directly on the route. We therefore recommend a simple tent.
Map
The best Czech map for orientation can be bought locally: the JESEN.KY. RYCHLEBSK. HORY at a scale of 1:50000, Turistick. mapa, Shocart Cartography.
Catering
It's best to bring everything with you. Especially water! Only rarely will you come across a small spring for refilling. Approaching towns or resorts always means an extra 100 metres in altitude and is only recommended in extreme emergencies. There is only one catering option directly on the route on the second day at the former border crossing. However, this is only open at weekends!
Return transfer
From the destination of Złoty Stok, the direct route back to Klodzko is only 22 kilometres. This is easily doable by bike.
In the PDF download below you will find all information about the MTB tour through the Sudeten Mountains.