Cycling holidays in Montenegro: Cycling adventures between the mountains and the sea
Tom Bierl
· 22.11.2023
Suddenly we realise why we had so little traffic on the first 50 kilometres of glorious coastal road. We stand with our loaded bikes 100 metres from the barrier to Montenegro. The officials take it very seriously. It takes a good five minutes to clear each car. More than 10 vehicles per hour could not pass through this crossing. An endless queue would be inevitable. That's fine by us. Because this way we could just enjoy our first cycling stage from Dubrovnik to Herceg-Novi. A panoramic road without traffic. We whizz downhill from the border into the coastal town. The town proves to be a rather unconventional tourist stronghold for us. The historic centre, which is well worth seeing, is literally crushed by the excesses of the amusement industry. What will it look like in summer? The only ray of hope is the route of the former riverside railway, which is now a perfect cycle path. We cycle directly along the water to our hotel. Dreamlike.
On the way along a former railway line
We also follow the railway line the next morning. We reach the car ferry across to Tivat without climbing any metres. The sea in the Bay of Kotor looks like a huge lake. We discover metre-high holes in the rock. In the days of Yugoslavia, Tito's submarines were safely parked here. The country's recent history is alive everywhere. Tivat itself is a luxurious contrast to the many dilapidated houses and industrial plants we have rolled past so far. A harbour for superyachts has been built here for the international jet set. To us, the upmarket backdrop seems rather forbiddingly sterile. We quickly buy a tasty picnic at the supermarket and turn off into the mountains.
We enjoy the meditative silence. We are also impressed by the quality of the road. True master road builders must have been at work here. The solution to the riddle is revealed during our lunch break. At the pass is a former Austrian stronghold. The k. u. k. Monarchy built these military roads over 100 years ago and did a great job. The descent requires our full concentration. The tarmac is extremely poor and littered with potholes. Not for the first time, we regret that we are not travelling with fat tyres and solid touring bikes. Our simple touring bikes reach their limits here.
Potholes accompany us for the rest of the tour. But we're not angry about that. Lonely, almost too lonely, the next stage from the former capital Cetinje winds its way downhill for almost 1000 metres to Lake Skutari. The huge expanse of water, almost 50 kilometres long, is one of the last refuges for birdlife. The border to Albania runs right through it.
The loud croaking of frogs dominates the soundscape in the morning. We enjoy fried eggs with delicious sheep's cheese and a jam roll on the terrace. We need a good base today. The map doesn't indicate when there is a refreshment stop along the route. As if on an aeroplane, we spiral upwards on the panoramic road. Soon the lake lies below us in all its splendour. It's hard to imagine a more beautiful cycle route. The few villages we pass are deserted. Who would want to live in such solitude? The vast expanse of water itself is also idyllically quiet. We can't see a single ship for miles around. Ulcinj by the sea is reached sooner than expected. The last chain of hills is cut through by an imposing canyon. We spend the night in the centre of the old fortress. A marvellous place. By sunset, we are already sitting in the restaurant and enjoying the evening. A holiday on the Mediterranean!
Varied panorama between mountains and sea
The next morning, we roll to the southernmost point of Montenegro. In May, we have the country's longest beach almost completely to ourselves. In a wide figure 8, we then cycle back through the country to Cetinje and through the national park over the mountains to the Bay of Kotor. The route climbs 1400 metres into the sky. The mountain scenery is magnificent. But the finale is even more magnificent. Shortly after the pass, we feel transported to Norway. Deep below us, two cruisers are anchored in the dark blue fjord. This is followed by the never-ending descent to Kotor. The old town is a journey back in time to the Middle Ages. Tomorrow we will cycle back to Herceg-Novi along the old railway line and on to Cavtat in Croatia. It takes just a few seconds to leave the country. No border guard is interested in our passport. That's fine by us. The main thing is that there is little traffic.
Cycling tips for Montenegro
Montenegro in spring is perfect cycling country for those who are not afraid of solitude, bad roads and steep climbs of over 1000 metres in altitude. There is little traffic on the small side roads. Main roads should be avoided. Robust tyres and good gearing are a must.
Arrival
We took advantage of Lufthansa's direct flight connection from Munich to Dubrovnik. The small town of Cavtat, two kilometres from the airport, was the ideal starting and finishing point for the tour and for a boat trip to Dubrovnik.
Stages
The daily stages we chose were around 60 km with an elevation gain of around 1000 metres. The maximum distance we covered was 74 km with 1440 metres of ascent. To avoid traffic and strenuous stages, we took a local taxi shuttle twice, which had to be organised on site.
GPS data
The GPS data for the cycle tour through Montenegro is available in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot
Catering on the way
A picnic is the most reliable way to ensure you have enough to eat while travelling in the remote hinterland. The roads can be lonely and places marked on maps are often deserted.
Accommodation tips
The tour operator Inselhüpfen took care of booking the various but consistently nice accommodations for us. The towns on the coast are all tourist strongholds, so overnight stays are no problem here. In the hinterland, however, the choice of accommodation is scarce. Advance planning is highly recommended here. Modest cycle tourism is developing between the coast and Lake Scutari. www.euronatur.org
Package holiday
The experienced tour operator Inselhüpfen offers a similar Montenegro tour as a hotel & bike tour in its programme. However, some sections of the tour are bridged with the help of a shuttle. All information can be found at www.inselhuepfen.de
