I don't have to worry about anything or anyone. All the hustle and bustle is far away. The last time I had to think about things like right of way and traffic rules was three hours ago, and I feel like I saw the last flashing shop windows and office signs days ago. Even the drive of my e-bike is deeply relaxed and helps me not to lose sight of the yellow spot further ahead, our bike guide, while they are constantly enjoying the colour sequence green, sky blue, green, dark green, moss green, blue-white, light green, deep blue, brick red, rich green. No, I'm not in New Zealand or South America, but just a short flight away from home in the Polish Masuria.
If someone wanted to recreate the north of Poland as a model landscape, they would probably have a Sisyphean task ahead of them. This is because the landscape consists of countless rock formations and green mounds of earth with even more lakes, canals, forests and tiny settlements. The area two hours' drive north of the capital Warsaw is an absolute contrast to the vibrant metropolis, and in fact to any average small town. Settlements are scattered like small dots across the very unspoilt landscape, rarely comprising more than eight houses. From the bike, you only notice the cute little clusters of houses with amusement at first, until you learn more about the history of this shaken region.
Since the glaciers of the Ice Age modelled and left behind this varied landscape, the strip of land has rarely come to rest. Since the time of the first settlers, various peoples seem to have passed through here in cycles, from the Huns to the Tartars to the Nazis and the Russians during the Second World War, mostly in connection with conquests, expulsions, deportations and destruction. Settlements simply could not grow and flourish here. And even around magnificent and well-preserved sacred buildings such as the baroque monastery in Swieta Lipka with its legendary organ, no 1,000 inhabitants have settled in hundreds of years. The spirit of optimism, the drive towards a modern and more westernised society, which you could clearly sense in Warsaw at the beginning of the trip, has not yet really arrived in Masuria. And that's exactly why you can switch off perfectly here.
Trudno! The Pole says relaxed: "That's just the way it is!"
Cycling through this unspoilt landscape on an e-bike is a maximum dose of deceleration. I don't even have to worry about the route, as guide Kascha navigates our tour group unerringly through the "Land of a Thousand Lakes". This title has already been bestowed on several regions, but here it is an understatement. A glance at the map reveals that it was a good decision to book a guided tour, as the network of around 2,000 lakes and the canals in between is not passable everywhere. And well-developed, signposted cycle routes tend to be reserved for Poland's tourist centres. Because the villages here are so far apart, hardly anyone in Masure travels by bike. However, there is no question of motorised private transport on a large scale or even traffic stress. We don't encounter ten cars a day on the narrow roads or farm tracks, remnants of the "collective farm" era when powerful tractors still drove to the huge fields. The coarse surface, which the locals call "Russian asphalt" with a bitter smile, is also not made for heavy car traffic - which is exactly why it's great for biking! And because there was no need to make room for heavy lorries or third and fourth lanes here in Masuria, the trees on the right and left had time and peace to form never-ending avenues high above the asphalt. Oxygen straight from the tree - you can hardly get any closer to nature.
You could easily lose yourself in these green tunnels and water reflections on the lakes. But Kascha knows many of the highlights along the route, knows where to find contemporary witnesses, viewpoints and where to get the best pierogi. The Poles simply love to wrap savoury food in dumplings. But even vegetarians will always find something tasty, so when in doubt, opt for the obligatory mushroom dish on the menu. As Kascha tells me, Poles are crazy about picking mushrooms, and there are plenty of them in the vast, damp landscapes of Masuria.
On tour into history with a lump in your throat
The country radiates such a peaceful atmosphere that it makes you feel all the more intense when you come face to face with its not-so-distant history. We read "Restaurant zur Wolfsschanze" on a signpost. Yes, that's right, THE Wolf's Lair: Adolf Hitler's command bunker. With a lump in their throat, some people wonder how welcome Germans and Austrians are in this part of the country today. The answer: very! We were warmly welcomed everywhere we travelled. Many of the older people even speak some German, while their children tend to stick to English. Our travelling history database with the yellow jacket tells me that people in Poland, and especially in Masuria, have learned to come to terms with other cultures while remaining true to themselves. There were never any ethnic conflicts within the region - although many different ethnic groups have always lived there.
With great respect, we walk through the corridors of the bunkers to be visited. You might think that these memorials were among the central sites of the Polish tourist programme. No, they are largely private organisations that use simple means and collected historical equipment to ensure that these sites can be visited. The impressions are not spectacular, but simply cycling past would not be appropriate either. It's hard to believe that this peaceful corner of the world has played a role in so many conflicts. The lake landscape, which is now exclusively used by sailing boats, has always represented a natural bottleneck between Western and Eastern Europe, which was easier to defend than an open area. Anyone interested in military tactics should join one of the guided tours of the famous "Feste Boyen". History is regularly brought back to life at the gigantic 19th century fortifications with re-enacted sieges and battles. But the inside of the fortress also has historically furnished rooms, models of the fortifications and really well-trained guides. Interesting fact: before the concrete age and without a quarry nearby, the almost two and a half kilometre long outer defensive wall was built from 15 million bricks. The red brickwork still characterises large parts of Masuria today.
A cycle tour through Masuria is a journey of contrasts
Again, I notice the contrast. While we cycle along the route with e-bikes whirring quietly in chorus as if on cat's paws through the quiet Masuria towards Gdansk and are able to experience the highlights of Polish history almost exclusively here, a few days earlier it was a different story in Warsaw. To see the monuments in honour of the Jewish Warsaw ghetto and the uprising against the Germans, you had to find your place among the crowds of culture vultures and dozens of school classes. Both of the city's hotspots are also extremely impressive, as are their surroundings. Warsaw as a model landscape would have to be thrown together from several city construction kits. Symmetrical 1960s apartment blocks with crumbling plaster stand like foreign bodies between mirrored and well-designed office towers, almost like in Tokyo. Wide, modern streets with greenery and Copenhagen-style lanterns lead into cobbled alleyways that are far too narrow for the traffic, while a hundred metres further on, eight-lane, cast-iron roads and trams bring the crowds of people from the residential to the working districts.
And then there's the old town: "It's all fake," says our city guide. In fact, 90 per cent of historic Warsaw was destroyed and the city centre was rebuilt almost true to the original under Russian leadership, a little crooked and lopsided, but that's exactly how it looked before. Perhaps we would rather not have known about this retort, but the achievement of rebuilding an entire neighbourhood without any plans in mind: Respect! Incidentally, the Russian occupiers had not commissioned the architect to build a replica at all; he was actually supposed to have a colossal concrete façade facing east built, but Jan Zachwatowicz was probably too patriotic and disobeyed the order. His "head birth" has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980.
Incidentally, many residential buildings stand on flat plinths, which are the remains of the old buildings; there was simply neither the time nor the logistical means to clear away the rubble. This haste has apparently been rediscovered. Ten skyscrapers are currently being built simultaneously on the site where a railway station was built almost ten years ago. At 310 metres, the Warsaw Tower is now the tallest building in the EU since Brexit. The European Football Championship 2012, which was shared with the Ukraine, was one of the main reasons for the spirit of optimism and attracted many investors.
Gentle, lively tourism in the capital city of Warsaw
In the metropolis, unlike in the rural patchwork of Masuria, it is quite popular to travel by bike. Locals shy away from the usually long distances to the next village. In and around Warsaw, which has just under two million inhabitants, there are said to be an incredible 590 kilometres of busy cycle paths. Yet another contrast that accompanied and fascinated us throughout our journey. We saw so much, and yet we didn't have the feeling of being rushed from attraction to attraction. The district of Wola in Warsaw, which translates as "anthill", with its hypermodern skyline, makes the tranquillity and unspoilt nature of Masuria seem even more extreme. Precisely because there is nowhere in this part of the country where masses of tourists have to be "eaten off", you don't feel like a tourist at all - more like a visitor to whom distant acquaintances proudly show their home.
However, Masuria - as the administrative district is called, i.e. without the article - does not have a well-developed cycling infrastructure like Denmark or the Netherlands. This means that adventurers will get their money's worth on a bike trip on their own. However, if you want to fully enjoy the "civilisation detox" on a tour through the region, we recommend joining an organised tour group. This not only makes travelling to and from the destination and the logistics of hiring a pedelec easier. It also gives you the freedom to hop on a boat or broom wagon. And the insider knowledge of the guides cannot be replaced by studying maps.
Guided cycle tour through Masuria
For our trip to Masuria, we relied on the organisation and guidance of "Belvelo". Behind this is the experienced tour operator Lernidee. Founder and ex-pedagogue Hans Eberding has been creating adventure tours for 35 years. Belvelo is now bringing these very special group tours to e-bikes. The tour leader, guide and deliberately small groups automatically become a small family - you experience things together, but can also opt out at any time. Accommodation and prices are more in the luxury segment, although we were not 15 per cent cheaper when calculating an individual trip.
The route of the Masuria tour leads from Warsaw to Gdansk with four transfers in nine days. So you don't have to pack your bags and stow them in the support vehicle every morning. Excursions by boat or by bike sometimes end at the starting point. The hire bikes are in top condition and are perfect for leisurely cruising through the countryside. If natural paths are softened, the guide will switch to one of the roads, which usually have little traffic. The trip, including train journey, transfers, meals, tickets for boats and sightseeing and a German-speaking tour guide, costs around 2500 euros in a double room, depending on the dates. More information and alternative destinations at: belvelo.com/destinations/masuria/
The Masuria route in 7 stages
The combination of cycle routes, bus transfers, excursions and even sections by boat means that you can pick out the pearls of the route to experience for yourself, so to speak. The seven sections do not automatically make up the entire route. You cycle between 25 and 50 kilometres per day at an average speed of around 15 km/h.
- Train journey to Warsaw with city tour
- Pisz-Nowe Guty, Orzysz, Warmia-Masuria, 25 km - Ferry to Lötzen
- Prawdowo, Mikołajki-Krutyń, Piecki, Warmia-Masuria, 41 km
- Giżycko-Węgorzewo, Warmia-Masuria, 48 km
- Lidzbark Warmiński-Orneta, Warmia-Masuria, 32 km
- Braniewo-Kadyny, Tolkmicko, Warmia-Masuria, 43 km
- Elbląg-Buczyniec, Rychliki, Warmia-Masuria, 36 km
- Nowa Kościelnica, Ostaszewo-Gdansk (Gdansk), Pomerania, 25 km
You can download the GPX data for the 7 stages download here for free.
Other provider
"Zeit Reisen" offers a Masuria pedelec trip that starts and ends in Warsaw; however, the seven 35 to 63 kilometre stages do not lead to the Baltic Sea, but circle the 2,000 lakes in an anti-clockwise direction. zeitreisen.zeit.de/reise/masuren-polen-ebikereise/
Travel information & cycling tips for individual travellers
Masuria tour on your own
Belvelo's Masuria tour largely follows the first section of the approximately 2,000 kilometre-long "Green Velo" cycle route along the northern and, above all, eastern outskirts of Poland. Without a guide or tour group, you can follow this route as an alternative. greenvelo.pl/en
The section from Lötzen to Gdansk is around 270 kilometres long. Without an escort, you should plan at least five to six days and always save a few energy and time reserves, as the infrastructure in the areas is not yet well developed. In addition, the worthwhile sights are not always on the cycle route, which lengthens the distance.
Best time to travel
Theoretically all year round; ideally from April to October; more mosquitoes may appear in midsummer, but this depends on the temperature rather than the season. The guided tours take place from June to October.
Arrival
Flight: Masuria is located between the airports of Gdansk and Warsaw, but the former is rarely served by direct flights and, depending on the route, a much longer transfer is necessary from Warsaw. Please note: taking e-bikes with you when travelling by air is extremely complicated and not really worthwhile.
Train: Recommended! The starting point for the Green bike route is in Konskie, the nearest major railway station is in Kielce. If you are travelling from the west or south of Germany, you should plan an overnight stay in Berlin or Dresden.
PASSENGER CAR: We recommend staying in the easily accessible town of Olsztyn and starting from there on flat day trips towards the coast, eastwards through the Masurian Lake District or northwards, where the density of sights increases considerably.
Pay
Although Poland is a member of the EU, the country is not yet part of the eurozone. Payment is made in zloty, pronounced "swu'ote", and the exchange rate is fairly stable at 4.4 zloty per euro. You can also pay small amounts in euros or zloty almost everywhere with a debit or credit card, so a small amount of cash is sufficient. You are warned not to withdraw Polish currency from ATMs more than once, as some banks charge a one-off fee in addition to the amount-dependent fee.
Overnight stay
Hotel "Nyx" in WarsawThe new, fully designed and brand new premium hotel is located directly next to the Warsaw Tower, which is currently in the final construction phase. Until the office complexes in this rapidly growing neighbourhood are completed, prices will remain very moderate.
leonardo-hotels.com/nyx-hotel-warsaw
Castle Hotel "Krascki" in LidzbarkThe castle, very magnificent and made of red bricks typical of the region, consists of several stately building sections. Tip: A tour around the roof ridge is possible. hotelkrasicki.pl
Hotel "St Bruno" in GizyckoA chic but very cosy property located directly on the canal, built around or directly on top of a historic knight's castle, resulting in a very winding and exciting "inner life". hotelstbruno.pl
