Cycle tour Ireland: In the footsteps of Heinrich Böll on the Wild Atlantic Way

Admittedly, even female travel writers have prejudices. Ireland equals rain, I thought. "Take all the rain gear you have," my friend living in London had implored me, "the forecast is terrible!" What I had read in Heinrich Böll's "Irish Diary" - the writer lived on Achill Island, our destination, for many years - was not necessarily reassuring either. Böll has devoted an entire chapter to the weather, entitled "Reflections on the Irish rain", and what he writes is not at all encouraging. I could see myself soaking wet and shivering in pubs, spending my days in museums and firesides instead of cycling along the Wild Atlantic Way, freezing and catching a cold. And then - everything turned out differently.

On day one of our trip, we meet John Kennedy, our bike hire company, in Galway, a lively city in the west of Ireland. John and his wife Shiobhain run a bike shop and organise bike tours. "It usually only rains for a short time here," John reassures us, "and if the wind is too strong, we'll pick you up." Cautious counter-question: when does the wind become too strong? "From 40 kilometres per hour it becomes critical. But it rarely happens," says John.

Village fit for a film

Somewhat reassured, we start our tour towards the Atlantic in the village of Cong. And we can hardly tear ourselves away. Because Cong is beautiful. Small streams meander through the park-like landscape, past a picturesque ruined abbey from the 7th century and a stone fisherman's cottage in the middle of the river. In the village of Cong itself, hardly a single building spoils the overall picture. A dream! And indeed a film set - not the only one we will encounter on our journey through Ireland's wild west. In 1951, the homecoming drama "Quiet Man" was filmed in Cong, starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara. A statue in the centre of the village commemorates this.

It doesn't help, we have to keep going, first through a fairytale forest, in which, hidden on Lough Corrib, lies Ashford Castle, a castle-like building from the 13th century that has been one of the chicest and most expensive hotels in Ireland for decades. A few kilometres later, a lonely road winds its way along Lough Na Fooey - but it's not quite so lonely after all, as black-faced, dark-legged Connemara* sheep keep crossing the road. After a few encounters with the woolly animals, we have learnt: be careful if a lamb is standing alone on one side of the road - it will almost certainly run towards the rest of the flock, regardless of whether there is a cyclist or a car on the road. The older animals are a bit more relaxed - at least most of the time.

At the western end of Lough Na Fooey, we stop at Joyce Country Sheepdogs, a farm with more than 200 Connemara sheep. They graze scattered on the slopes of the lake, closely guarded by Joe Joyce's dogs, a total of six beautiful, incredibly capable black and white border collies. Three times a day at fixed times, Joe shows his guests how impressively his dogs work and talks about life on the farm. "We make our main business from the meat of the sheep," he disillusions us as he strokes his dog Becca, "you get next to nothing for the wool these days. But the meat is worth it - thanks to the EU. It's a bit like wine from Germany, which is also subsidised by the EU."

Fjord from the Ice Age

After this little excursion into the EU, we continue on to Leenane. If we were already impressed by the landscape before, there's more to come: ahead of us lies Killary Fjord, a 16-kilometre-long inlet, surrounded on three sides by green hills and formed by valley glaciers that moved towards the coast, allowing the Atlantic to flood the former glacial basin. Killary Fjord, also known as Killary Harbour, is not the only fjord in Ireland, but it is the only one from the Ice Age.

It is almost mystically beautiful in any case, and there are even said to be dolphins and seals here. Unfortunately, we don't see any, but we do take a quick look at the local wool museum. The bestselling author Leonie Swann sought expert advice from the museum director's sister for her thriller Glennkill, written from a sheep's-eye view. Today, it is mainly American tourists who come to the museum, including many whose families originally come from Ireland and who want to re-engage with old traditions such as spinning or knitting.

Breathtaking - and cruel

We follow the shore of the fjord, for the first time along the Wild Atlantic Way coastal road. We keep winding our way upwards until we reach Doo Lough. Its Irish name means Black Lake in English. And as breathtaking as the landscape is, this mixture of mountains, hills, the lake and the wide valleys, the history of this area is just as cruel: between 1845 and 1850, numerous people fell victim to the Great Famine - which, contrary to what is often reported, escalated due to the behaviour of the English, who were in power at the time. The tragedy came to a head on the night of 30 March 1849: several hundred half-starved people had set off. They had been promised work or at least food by the English inspectors in Louisburgh. 400 people, women, men and children, died on the way in the freezing cold night. A memorial commemorates this dark chapter.

Manor house in Westport

We roll thoughtfully to Westport, our next destination. Before we head towards Achill Island the next morning, we absolutely have to see Westport House. Designed by architects Richard Cassels and James Wyatt in the 18th century, the manor house is considered one of Ireland's most beautiful historic residences open to the public, idyllically situated in a park with a lake and views of the Atlantic. The builders and former owners, the Browne family, are direct descendants of the pirate queen Grace O'Malley, who had her pirate castle built here in the 16th century. "Until January 2017, the house was the ancestral home of the Browne family," explains Kathryn Connolly, the curator of Westport House, "it was very important to the last owner, Jeremy Browne, 11th Marquess of Sligo, and his family that the house was accessible to everyone." However, as money was running out, the Brownes had to come up with all sorts of ideas to keep the historically valuable property open. "We had the most incredible things here: a zoo, a circus, an adventure park with a pirate ship and pirate diving centre, a miniature railway and more," Kathryn lists.

Pedal boats in the shape of white swans still float on the lake today. However, the Pink Rabbit, an entertainer dressed in a pink plush bunny costume, who used to ghost around the grounds and through the house to entertain guests, has long since retired. "After his death, Jeremy left the property to his five daughters - who then had to sell it to the Hughes family, businessmen from Westport. They simply couldn't afford the maintenance costs," Kathryn explains. Since the change of ownership, however, Westport House has been on the up. It is being renovated piece by piece and the exhibitions have been redesigned and expanded. Curator Kathryn is also planning to remodel the basement rooms. "Most visitors are interested in the lavish rooms of the lords. But their lives were only possible thanks to the labour of the servants who lived in the cellar. I want to tell their stories." One more reason to come back here in a few years' time.

Arrival at the Atlantic

From Westport, the Great Western Greenway, a new cycle path along the former railway line, takes us to Mulranny by the sea. A very relaxed route, rather flat, on fine, smooth tarmac over sheep pastures - until it gets more interesting again in Mulranny: we are now really on the Atlantic, on the Wild Atlantic Way. The wind sweeps powerfully across the land from the sea. It hasn't yet reached the 40 kilometres per hour mentioned by bike hire company John, but we have to put up a good fight, especially when we leave the protective rhododendron avenues and the island of Achill is already in sight. Five kilometres from our destination, Achill Sound, the rain really starts to fall. Fortunately, we are quickly dry.

The next day: perfect sunny weather that makes you want to explore the island. So we head across the moorland to Keel to see the film locations: This is where director Martin McDonagh shot the feature film "The Banshees of Inisherin" in 2022, a quiet, at times disturbing drama about the abrupt end of a lifelong friendship between two Irish men. McDonagh has placed the house of main character Colm in the bay of Keem. After struggling up the spectacularly steep coastal road, we take a look at it from above - and turn back to Keel. With its pretty white houses, this coastal town could be somewhere in the Mediterranean.

And the beach! The waves crash wildly onto the shore and the conditions are perfect for surfers. The short grass is so fine and well-tended that any garden owner would be envious. But this is pure nature - the wind, the sea and of course the ever-present sheep keep the grass short. In Doogort in the far north, the beach is almost even more beautiful, at the foot of Mount Slievemore, golden yellow and fine sandy. On our way there, we pass the ruins of a village, the Deserted Village, abandoned in the time of the Great Famine. The deserted village appeared ghostly to the writer Heinrich Böll, like the "skeleton of a human settlement". The oppressive atmosphere can still be felt today.

In Böll's footsteps

Böll lived with his family in Doogort itself. The rather inconspicuous cottage is still owned by the family and was at times a writer's residence. This coastal village is an absolutely inspiring place. Francis van Maele and Antic-Ham, a Belgian-Korean artist couple who have been running what is probably the world's most beautifully situated print shop in a house high above the Atlantic in Doogort for 19 years, agree. They call themselves Redfoxpress, and the two publish almost exclusively artists' books. The slim volume about Böll's time on Achill is doing particularly well. We roll back with lots of escapist ideas in our heads - glad that John didn't have to save us from the wind after all, and with the firm intention of coming back here again one day.

*Note: There are often several spellings for place, region or water names in Ireland, an Irish version and an English translation (for example Connemara (English) and Conamara (Irish). There is often also an Irish Gaelic version. All are correct.

GPS data for the cycle tour in the west of Ireland

Tour dates: Ireland - total length 239 km - total altitude difference 1,790 metres

Underground/roads: Almost continuously tarmac, partly car-free cycle paths. Beware of left-hand traffic and frequent free-roaming sheep!

Tour itinerary:

• 1st Cong - Leenane (40 km),
• 2. Leenane - Louisburgh - Westport (53 km),
• 3. Westport - Newport - Mulranny - Achill Sound (46 km),
• 4th Achill Sound - Keel - Keem - Keel - Doogort - Achill Sound (54 km),
• 5. Achill Sound - Mulranny - Newport - Westport (46 km, same route as Tour 3).

You can find the GPS data in the DK tour portal:

Information and tips for cycling along the Wild Atlantic Way

Arrival

aeroplane: There are direct flights to Dublin from many airports, e.g. with Aer Lingus or Ryanair. From there, continue by bus to Galway: www.citylink.ie
Ferry: There are direct ferry connections to Dublin with Irish Ferries, DFDS, Stena Line, Brittany Ferries from Cherbourg, Dunkirk, Roscoff.
Train and ferry: The best way to travel by train is via London. Information e.g. here: wirsindanderswo.de/anreise/irland-per-zug-und-faehre

Worth seeing

Jocye Country Sheepdogs: At the family-run farm directly on Lough Na Fooey, you can watch the sheepdogs herding the Connemara Blackface sheep - and, if you're lucky, bottle-feed the cute little lambs. joycecountrysheepdogs.ie

Westport House: One of the most beautiful country houses still open to the public, with historic rooms and an eventful history, idyllically situated in an extensive park. westporthouse.ie

Louisburgh: If you want to find out more about the life of the legendary pirate Grace O'Malley, you can visit the Granuaile Visitor Centre on Chapel Street in Louisburgh.

Accommodation

Galway: A pleasant larger hotel is the Salthill Hotel, located directly on the beach. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the centre. 190 euros/room/breakfast. salthillhotel.com

Leenane: The pretty Leenane Hotel, situated on Ireland's only fjord, originally served as a post office. Many rooms with sea views. Excellent food in the adjoining restaurant. From 130 euros/room/breakfast. leenanehotel.com

Westport: The Westport Plaza Hotel is located in the centre of town. A newer hotel, lively and comfortable. With spa and restaurant. Double room approx. 180 euros/breakfast (look out for special offers!). westportplazahotel.ie

Achill Sound: The Achill Island Hotel is a friendly, larger family hotel. On weekends, there are often events in the ballroom, and down-to-earth food in the hotel's own pub. From 140 euros/room/breakfast. achillislandhotel.com

Food and drink

Keyword nutritious - and that starts with breakfast. A classic Full Irish Breakfast easily replaces a meal, maybe even two: with porridge, toast, jam, crispy fried bacon, black pudding, liver sausage and pork sausage. Served with fried or scrambled eggs, baked beans in tomato sauce, fried mushrooms and tomatoes with soda bread or the slightly sweet brown bread.

Fish and seafood fans get their money's worth in Ireland: oysters, mussels, freshly caught fish or a warming fish chowder, a thick fish soup, compete with fish and chips. Meat from local grazing cattle or Irish stew with lamb are also often on the menu. In pubs, you can not only sample numerous types of beer, from Guinness to a slightly lighter reddish-brown ale, but often also have a bite to eat - it's best to ask at the bar, as not all pubs have menus.

If your stomach starts to growl in between meals, it's worth stopping off at a tea room or coffee shop - think scones! These slightly sweet pastry classics are best served with jam and butter.

MYBIKE tips

Galway: Excellent fish and seafood can be found at the Dinner and Seafood Bar @Kirwan's Lane. A fine address, yet affordable. kirwanslane.ie

Louisburgh: TIA at the Square is a very friendly deli with homemade cakes, bars, scones and small dishes on Long Street. Its sister deli, Tia by the River, is located on Bridge Street and is open in the evenings.

Read more

The bible for travellers to Ireland: the Ireland travel guide by Ralph-Raymond Braun, published by Michael Müller Verlag. Loosely written, with extensive information that is as personal as if it came from a good friend. 800 pages, 90 maps and plans. 32.90 euros, Michael Müller Verlag.

Bicycle service

West Ireland Cycling: Bike hire and tour operator John Kennedy and his team not only hire out well-maintained, robust touring bikes, gravel bikes and e-bikes, but also have detailed route descriptions, great maps and help quickly and easily with breakdowns along the way. An absolute recommendation! westirelandcycling.com

General information Wild Atlantic Way

The famous coastal route celebrates its tenth anniversary this year (2024). At more than 2,600 km long, the Wild Atlantic Way is one of the longest designated coastal roads in the world. It runs along the west coast of Ireland from the Inishowen peninsula in the north of County Donegal to the coastal town of Kinsale in the south of County Cork. Information and tour suggestions: wild-atlantic-way.com

Further helpful information on travelling in Ireland can be found on the official website www.irland.com