If you rush around the islands of Kvarner Bay at a racing pace, you pay a high price: you only get to see the landscape, culture and people from the corner of your eye and in fast motion. But the island hopping route is also available as a holiday option. The ship sails to not just four, but a total of seven islands in eight days: Cres, Lošinj, Molat, Dugi Otok, Pag, Rab and Krk. To ensure that no one has to fall into a race pace on this programme, the kilometres of the individual daily tours are naturally shorter than in a race. Participants can decide for themselves exactly how much. There are three different levels to choose from each day. As most of the guides come from these islands, they also know the most hidden corners. One tour, for example, takes you to a mountain village that looks completely deserted. But here lives an expatriate from Austria who conjures up an extremely tasty ice cream on a rose stick from her garden figs. You can't just speed through the old town centre of Rab either. The alleyways with their pre-Christian walls tell a story! A stop in one of the quaint cafés is always possible on this tour. The highlight for all Winnetou fans, however, is Dugi Otok, the southernmost island on this trip. It is home to a turquoise-coloured lake at the foot of steep mountain slopes: the world-famous film set of "The Treasure in Silver Lake".
The precinct
Of the 1244 Croatian islands, only 47 are inhabited. The largest are located in Kvarner Bay, which is why these islands also offer the largest network of trails for extensive bike tours. The mountains on the islands are not particularly high. The highest peak in the Adriatic is 778 metres high on the island of Brac. In Kvarner Bay, the highest peaks are just under 600 metres. You therefore collect metres in altitude on the tours in constant ups and downs through the hilly landscapes. Nevertheless, the gravel paths and trails feel like high mountains. The climbs are often steep and covered with coarse gravel. The trails usually have rocky, stepped surfaces and wind their way through dry stone walls or down steep slopes.
The tour
Seven islands in eight days: Cres, Lošinj, Molat, Dugi Otok, Pag, Rab and Krk. A total of 220 kilometres and 4000 metres in altitude are covered by bike. The crossings from island to island take several hours, during which you can relax to the gentle rocking of the boat. Food is mainly eaten on the boat. A packed lunch is only provided on longer day trips.
Price incl. board and guided tours: from 790 euros. Info and booking: www.inselhuepfen.de
The ship
The Linda usually sails mountain bikers through the Kvarner Bay. The wooden ship was built in 1955 and renovated in 2005 especially for the needs of cyclists. There is room for 32 guests in the cabins (with shower and WC) above and below deck. As the Adriatic is a playground for all kinds of winds, it can happen that the captain is unable to call at a harbour. In this case, the planned bike tours have to be adjusted accordingly.
Arrival
Rijeka is a six-hour drive from Munich (516 km): take the A8 motorway towards Salzburg and continue via Villach and Ljubljana (Slovenia) to Rijeka (Croatia). Then another 30 minutes over the motorway bridge to the port of Omisalj on the island of Krk. A parking space in the harbour costs 40 euros for the week. The many toll stations on this route are somewhat annoying: vignette for Austria (10 days 8.70 euros), vignette for Slovenia (monthly vignette 30 euros). There are also the following toll charges (single): Croatian motorway (1.80 euros), Tauern tunnel (11 euros) and Karawanken tunnel (7 euros).
Travelling by train
There is a night train connection from Munich to Rijeka. However, it is not possible to take bikes. Info: www.bahn.de
Travelling by plane
Rijeka has an international airport. Flight duration 1:20 hours. The tour operator can organise a shuttle transfer to the port on request. Rental bikes are available on the ship.
Currency
Croatia is part of the EU, but not (yet) part of the monetary union. Payment is made in kuna (100 kuna = 13 euros). Kuna means marten. It is the heraldic animal of the Croats, as breeding it once brought the country a lot of money.
Best time to travel
One of seven typical winds is the bora. An ice-cold downslope wind that blows down suddenly from the mainland mountains and can reach gale force. This makes it rather uncomfortable on the ship for anyone who gets seasick easily. From May onwards, however, a strong bora is rare, so the touring season starts here. In midsummer it is too hot for biking, but from September to October the temperatures are pleasant again and the Adriatic is warm enough for swimming.
On your own
If you don't want the luxury of a guide and full-board accommodation, you can also take the normal ferries from island to island and organise your accommodation on site. However, the organisational effort is high and the price savings low. You have to lug all your luggage with you and organise the tour research yourself. The most difficult part will be finding the trails, as the maps available are very inaccurate. If you still want to give it a try: Information about the ferries can be found at www.kroati.de. Information from the Croatian National Tourist Board: www.croatia.hr
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Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
