City trip Prague: A sightseeing tour through the Golden City on the Vltava River

Berlin Central Station, platform 1, departure 7.15 a.m.: The doors close, folding bikes and bags are stowed in the compartment. Scheduled arrival in Prague in four hours. The sun is shining through the window and I blink at Alex. Anticipation on his face. We treat ourselves to a little break in the city that is one of the most visited in the world. We are excited to see everything that attracts nine million tourists to the metropolis every year.

Challenge accepted!

We reach our destination on time - Deutsche Bahn can still do it after all. A quick orientation and we're already on our folding bikes. Off to Mosaic House. Alex has made the choice, and for good reason. It advertises itself as a bike hotel, offering guests free use of bikes and a bike storage room. After just a few metres, we realise that if you don't like cobblestones, you've lost in Prague. I briefly ask myself: should I have a look at the hotel bikes? Maybe they have wide tyres and a good profile? But no, challenge accepted. Over the next few days, I'm going to explore the city of a hundred spires on a folding bike. A quick stop-over at the hotel. Then we head for BIKE7, a hip café on the Vltava. Once a bicycle repair shop, people now meet here for wine or beer. Only the retro frames on the wall and some bike interiors are reminiscent of the good old days. It's now late afternoon: the sun is low in the sky, a cool drink and a relaxed atmosphere. Next to me, I hear someone say: "This is how I like life." Alex has switched on holiday mode. But tomorrow we're off. Prague, here we come.

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Round trip with contrasts: nature and nostalgia

And there are three of us. We meet Miro, who lives just outside and already has a few kilometres of cycling under his belt, at Charles Bridge. With him, we want to immerse ourselves in the colourful mix of the city, a mixture of old culture, modern dynamism and eventful history. By bike, of course. He has put together a tour for us. The turning point is Troja Castle, a little gem, unknown to tourists and located away from the city centre. The outward journey is a relaxed ride along the Vltava. A cycle path that puts you in a good mood. Tarmac, perfectly signposted and with a view of the water. After 10 kilometres you arrive at the archway. Behind it is a small, dreamy castle. Immediately, various fairy tale films play in front of my eyes. But Miro quickly brings me back to reality. It's not a film set, but there is a gallery and a nearby winery to visit. Our way back to the centre offers both history and plenty of greenery. Full marks for the local guide. We would never have found the route on our own. First we cross the Stromovka and Letná parks. Both are located on a plateau. We stop again and again. No, the reason is not flat tyres, but the view of the city.

Each new viewpoint feels like it tops the previous one. Then the next highlight. We approach Prague Castle from behind via the Royal Gardens. The advantage: no cobblestones, no crowds. The regular ascent would be a different story. Especially just before 12 noon, when the changing of the guard takes place at the main portal, hundreds of tourists make a pilgrimage up the hill. Once we reach the top, we head straight back down again. A short detour to the John Lennon memorial wall, a street art and graffiti wall that has been inscribed with love poems and political statements, mostly directed against the communist regime, since 1960. Mika begins to tell the story.

We immediately realise that all the scenes and events that once took place here still move him today. Just a few minutes' drive and we are standing in the middle of Kampa, an artificial island in the Vltava. Only made habitable at a late stage, it has already accommodated one or two state guests. Elizabeth II also spent the night here. A tranquil spot very close to the hustle and bustle of the city centre. The last section of our tour is just a stone's throw away. We are already at the point where our tour began this morning. What a start, so many impressions and pictures in just one day. So much to the left and right of the route has left an impression and calls for more. How will we fit it all into the remaining forty-eight hours? Heads are put together, then the decision is made.

The ring is followed by the rudder

Ready for some history, we set our sights on the Old Town Square on day two. We ride to Charles Bridge again and plunge into the hustle and bustle. We quickly realise that we won't have any fun here on our bikes. Luckily, the bike lock is with us. We dive into the heart of the Old Town. We follow the stream of people past the astronomical clock, the Gothic façades, small cafés and the Teyn Church. Unfortunately, there is no shortage of nip and tuck along the way. When our fluid levels are almost at zero, we turn into a side street. What a miracle. As soon as we leave the tourist trail, the prices stabilise. Two chairs in front of a small bar. Perfect, they're ours. Offer of the day: homemade lemonade. As soon as it's on the table, Alex has already finished it. "That's enough for me!" he announces. Does he mean the lemonade? I look at him questioningly. No, he's not talking about the fruity, sweet drink, but the trip to Prague's most popular neighbourhood. Relaxation is now on the programme. We need space for ourselves and we find it on the Vltava. The boat hire is just a few minutes' cycle ride away. A rowing boat is just coming back to the station. We put the folding bikes in, take the oars in our hands and off we go. The perfect contrast programme to the morning.

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The artistic transformation of a working-class neighbourhood

The last 24 hours are all about art and modernity. To do this, we travel to Holesovice. The former working-class neighbourhood is now a trendy district and has nevertheless retained its anti-glamour charm. What we notice here, just outside the tourist centre, is that more and more Prague residents are using bicycles. The city has made targeted investments in its infrastructure in recent years. Old streets have been remodelled to make them cycle-friendly. At many traffic lights, we line up directly in the designated cycle block, from which we are allowed to start before the cars. Around midday we reach the DOX, a centre for contemporary art and the largest art gallery in the country. We visit the exhibitions in the six halls, the chilled-out terrace by the café and climb up to the roof of the former factory building, which is now home to an airship. Just five blocks away, we come across the Vnitroblock.

Originally destined for demolition, this ruin has been transformed into a social and event centre with cafés, galleries and small shops. But the former warehouse does not want to be seen as a temple of consumption at all. For the perfect end to this day and our time in Prague, we stop off at Café Letka in the evening. I am immediately enamoured. The café already existed in the days of the monarchy, after which it was closed for a long time. Now reopened, the different stylistic elements reflect the history of the building. We opt for a delicious grey bread sandwich, a rosemary lemonade and a cappuccino. The beans come from the Berlin coffee roastery Five Elephants. Is that a sign to us? Home is calling. Our conclusion: experiencing Prague by bike is like leafing through a history book, except that the pages are full of life, art, contrasts and movement. The mixture of tradition and modernity, coupled with an ever-improving cycle network and hire options, makes the golden city the perfect destination for urban explorers on two wheels. Here you can not only ride, here you can experience. And that's exactly what makes the city so special.

Tour suggestion Prague

A varied cycle tour starts at Charles Bridge and leads across the Vltava to Troja Castle. The route continues through the green Stromovka Park to Letná Park with a view over Prague. Then to Prague Castle, one of the city's highlights. Return via the idyllic Kampa Island to Charles Bridge. The route runs mainly on cycle paths and combines sights, nature and urban flair. Ideal for discovering Prague in an active and relaxed way.

GPX data for the round trip through Prague

Route information: approx. 20 km long, easy climbs

Info & tips for a city trip by bike in Prague

Journey

You can travel directly from Berlin to Prague by train in around 4.5 hours.

Best time to travel

Suitable months to explore Prague are May to June and September.

Worth seeing

Charles Bridge - One of the oldest stone bridges in Europe. Lined with statues of saints, it offers impressive views over the Vltava. Pedestrianised, but easily accessible by bike.

Prague Castle - The largest contiguous castle complex in the world. Historic buildings, St Vitus Cathedral and magnificent gardens make it the highlight of every tour.

Old Town Ring - The centrepiece of the old town with the famous astronomical clock. Cafés, jugglers and Gothic façades make for a lively cityscape.

Letná Park - A popular meeting place with a sweeping view over the city. Perfect for a picnic break. Wide paths invite you to enjoy a relaxed cycle.

DOX - The Centre for Contemporary Art in Prague is an innovative cultural space that combines contemporary art, design, architecture and social issues in exciting exhibitions and events.

Bike hire

Prague offers numerous options: Rekola (sharing bikes via app, pink bikes), Nextbike, as well as classic hire companies such as Okolo or City Bike Prague, which offer e-bikes and touring bikes.

Overnight stay

Mosaic House, s.r.o. Odboru 4, 120 00 Prague. The MOSAIC HOUSE in Prague is a stylish design hotel with a special charm and is certified as bicycle-friendly accommodation. It offers a storage room for bicycles. Guests can also use hotel bicycles free of charge. www.mosaichouse.com

Info / Travel guide /Web addresses

• www.prague.eu - Official tourism portal: offers hotels, tours, sights etc.
• www.visitczechia.com - Overview of the nationwide tourism offer
• www.prag-aktuell.cz - German-language Prague city magazine with up-to-date information and tips

Food and drink

Cafe Letka, Letohradská 44, 170 00 Praha 7-Letná
Stylish café with vintage charm, excellent coffee and a cosy atmosphere. Ideal for breakfast or a relaxing break.

Letná Castle Beer Garden, Letenské sady 341, 170 00 Praha 7-Letná
Popular beer garden with a marvellous view over Prague. Traditional beer and a relaxed atmosphere in the centre of Letná Park.

Restaurant Orlík, Masarykovo nábř. 2018, 120 00 Nové Město
Classic Czech cuisine with a view of the Vltava. No frills, but authentic and centrally located in Nové Město.

VnitroblockTusarova 791/31, 170 00 Praha 7-Holešovice
Creative meeting place with cafés, shops and galleries in an urban industrial ambience. A hotspot of the Prague scene in Holešovice.

Café Bike7, New Town, 128 00 Prague
Former bicycle repair shop, now a stylish bar with a cosy flair. Perfect for drinks and relaxed evenings on the banks of the Vltava

Organiser of cycle tours around the city

• www.radweg-reisen.com: Cycling tour operator
• I Like eBike Prague - Guided e-bike tours (group or private tours) with insider knowledge
• Ave Bicycle Tours: Day and multi-day tours from Prague to the surrounding area, e.g. Vltava, Karlstejn Castle or Dresden, Vienna etc.
• Praha Bike: City tours and excursions by bike as well as bike hire of various models