Character
Slightly undulating terrain, which should not be underestimated when planning a tour: To avoid the main roads, some of which are very busy, we recommend using side roads and forest tracks. These are often unpaved and are particularly difficult to cycle on after rainfall. Wide tyres are very comfortable for the sandy sections. You do not need extreme mountain gearing.
Tour tips
1st to Krutynia, 40 km Start/Finish: Ruciane Nida
In Ruciane Nida, briefly follow road 610 towards Mragowo. At the junction with road 611, continue straight on into the forest to Wólka and Wojnowo (monastery, swimming at Lake Dúz). Head south back onto the busy road 611, after two kilometres turn right to Rasocha and continue to Krutyn. From Krutyn on sandy roads north-eastwards to road 610, turn right there and after about one kilometre turn left again to Kadzidlowo Wildlife Park. Continue straight ahead, crossing road 591 on a sandy road towards Iznota, where the Krutynia flows into Lake Beldany. Through the forest southwards to Wygryny and back to Ruciane Nida.
2. to Ketrzyn and the Wolf's Lair, 65 km Start/Finish: Gizycko
Leave Gizycko to the south-west, then southwards through Wilkasy and continue southwards on a quiet little road along the lakeshore for 13 kilometres. At the bridge over a lock canal, turn right onto a small road to Rhyn and in the centre of the village turn right via Nakomiady to Ketrzyn. From the town centre, follow road 592 eastwards for about three kilometres, then turn left at Karolewo onto the side road to the Wolf's Lair. (Ruins, once Hitler's war headquarters; the assassination attempt of 20 July 1944 took place here). After Parcz, follow the somewhat difficult to find cycle path eastwards, after two kilometres it joins a small road that leads back to Gizycko via Kamionki.
3. around Lake Beldany, 45 km Start/Finish: Mikolajki
At the south-western end of Mikolajki, follow a sandy road for six kilometres to the ferry to Wierzba (bathing area). Cross over and continue to the Popielno wildlife breeding station with a small restaurant, campsite and beach. Straight ahead through the pine forest southwards to Wesjuny, a pretty little village. Continue towards Ruciane Nida, but turn right before the village at the Guzianka lock and continue along sandy roads via Wygryny and the Jaskolka campsite back to the ferry landing stage at Wierzba. From there, return as on the outward journey.
Best time to travel
End of May to September. If you want to swim in the lakes, wait until at least mid-June for sufficiently warm water. With an average annual rainfall of 600 mm, the region is about as wet or dry as most of Germany.
Journey
By car: The distance between Berlin and Gizycko/Lötzen or Mikolajki is around 850 km. You should allow around 12 hours for the journey, most of which is on narrow roads.
By plane: The bus transfer from Warsaw or Gdansk airports (Wizzair/Lufthansa) takes around four hours. As transfer buses only take bikes on a whim or at full capacity, a tour operator trip with a rental bike or booked airport transfer is not the worst idea for air travellers.
By train: From Berlin to Ruciane-Nida or Gizycko from approx. 11.5 hours. Bicycle transport on the EC requires reservation.
Railway bicycle hotline: Tel. 01805/151415
Accommodation
The Masurian Lakes are also a very popular holiday destination for Poles, with numerous accommodation options and campsites.
Centrally located in Wilkasy near Gizycko and with its own lake access, holiday homes and hotel rooms: Country Club Wilkasy, tel. 0048/87/4280454; mailto:wilkasy@orbis.pl
Especially for cyclists and German-speaking: Cycling Resort Masurian Lakes, Piaski near Ruciane Nida, via DNV Tours, tel. 07154/131830; http://www.dnv-tours.de
Food
Restaurant Chata, ul. Dworcowa 10, Ruciane Nida
One of several restaurants on the main street of the Ruciane Nida tourist centre with covered outdoor seating. Very extensive menu ranging from Polish to international. Delicious food, large portions, friendly service. Roughly German price level.
Organiser
DNV-Touristik offers a special Masuria cycle tour: Guests stay overnight on the company's own 35-bed hotel ship "Classic Lady". While the ship changes its location on the waterway during the day, you cycle overland to the next berth without luggage. Your own cabin is already waiting there. The ship's chef conjures up multi-course evening meals. The one-week individual trip costs 745 euros in a twin cabin with half board. Further information: DNV-Touristik GmbH, Tel. 07154/131831; http://www.dnv-tours.de
Other organisers
Frosch Sportreisen GmbH, Tel. 0251/9278810; http://www.frosch-sportreisen.de
InNatoura, Tel. 0551/5046571; http://www.innatoura-polen.de
Masuren Koch, tel. 0048/89/7522058; http://www.masuren2.de
Literature/Maps
Radatlas Masuren, Verlag Esterbauer, 120 pages, ISBN 3-85000-089-3, 12.90 euros, recommendations for tours lasting several days, with detailed maps 1:75,000 Poland: Southern East Prussia 1:200,000, Höfer Verlag, ISBN 978-3-931103-15-6, 10.90 euros. Despite the large scale, detailed enough for independent planning of extensive tours.
Clearly laid out - with magnifying glass! Steffen Möller: Viva Polonia. As a German guest worker in Poland; Scherz-Verlag, ISBN 978-3-502-15155-5, 14.90 euros
Information
Polish Tourist Office Berlin, Tel. 030/2100920; http://www.polen-info.de
The full-length article from issue 3/2009 is available as a free PDF download.
