"Do you see the girl?" Excited, Martina points to a monumental rock face towering opposite. "Look, over there!" she huffs. But I'm still busy getting my heart rate back down. The steep ramp from the Vrsic Pass up to the viewpoint at the Postarski Dom hut has given me the rest. On top of that, getting up early to enjoy the panorama in the best light. Not to mention the growling stomach. My gaze wanders back and forth on the rock face, up and down. But for the life of me, I can't spot a girl. "Below the striking rocky outcrop! There!" Jure joins in and waves his arms around in the clear morning air. It's a picture-perfect day in the Julian Alps. The low sun is already warming the air a little. The dew rises as a fine mist from the grass. The sky is almost unreal blue. Then I finally recognise the face in the wall. Two rocky outcrops form the eyes, fine lines in the light-coloured rock outline the nose and mouth. It's clear - but only once you've found it. "Ajdovska deklica", the pagan girl, is one of the legends surrounding the Prisojnik massif.
But there is no time for the story behind it at the moment. The beautiful light and the tempting trails urge us to hurry. Before we plunge into the descent, Jure wants to try out a few trails above the Postarski hut. Short but crisp hairpin bends, a few steep steps in the steep terrain - ideal terrain for his enduro bike. After all, the 1,000 metres of vertical climbing on his bike, which loves to swallow, should have been worth it. But going uphill seems to be one of the least of Martina and Jure's problems anyway, no matter how much the bike weighs. The decisive factor is still the power in the legs. After the technical interlude at the summit, we pick up speed. An old military track winds its way down in wide hairpin bends to the Tonkina hut, where Martina promises breakfast. The cue mobilises new strength in me. At full throttle, we destroy metre after metre of altitude. The rough track is more path than gravel track and is great fun. Soon we are leaning our bikes against the fence in front of the hut with glowing discs. "Prisrcno dobrodosli", our landlady Tonka welcomes us. And to welcome us, she serves us a herbal schnapps. The purest knockout, on an empty stomach.
The GPS data for these five tours can be downloaded below:
1st Vrsic Pass Trails (40.5 km | 1736 m elevation gain | 4:45 h)
2. border triangle (23.2 km | 816 m elevation gain | 3 h)
Hills & Lakes (46 km | 928 m elevation gain | 4:30 h)
Techant. Mittagskogel (28.5 km | 1500 hm | 4 h)
Dovska Baba (44 km | 1700 m elevation gain | 5:30 h)
Flashback: Anyone travelling over the Wurzen Pass from Carinthia to Slovenia can expect a strange welcome committee. At the foot of what was once the most important crossing point in the Karawanks, steel armoured barriers are spiked into the field at the side of the road. The sharp-edged claws are relics from the 1990s, when Slovenia declared independence from the former Yugoslavia. At that time, there was a state of alert at Wurzen. The People's Army had advanced almost to the border and the Austrians were prepared to close the pass at any time. One bend later, the potholed tarmac rears up without mercy. 12, 16, 20 per cent. I pass a few grotesquely packed touring cyclists who are already cranking in low gear at the start of the murderous ascent, desperately bracing themselves for their physical demise. But their metres in the saddle are numbered. The acrid smell of charred brake pads hangs in the air. I can't deny that I'm glad to be in the car at this moment. Finally, at the top of the pass, a Soviet T-34 tank stretches its rusty gun barrel in front of all comers. However, the sabre-rattling welcome conveys a completely false image. Fortunately, the days of war are long gone and the military arsenal on the Wurzen Pass is just the playthings of an Austrian ex-colonel who runs a bunker museum near the top of the pass. The customs station at the border is empty. The same currency is used on both sides. The two countries maintain an extremely friendly relationship.
I am greeted with exuberant friendliness when my hosts welcome me to Kranjska Gora for the next few days. Martina and Jure run a biker guesthouse in the traditional ski resort and also offer guided tours. While Martina shows me the accommodation, Jure is once again glued to his smartphone discussing a stage ride through the Julian Alps to the Adriatic with a group of Dutch cyclists. The Trans-Slovenia Tour has almost become a classic and is well known even among German bikers. But the starting point of Kranjska Gora alone offers enough trails for a longer stay. Jure has spread out the map on the table and runs his finger along our planned routes. The many dotted lines promise maximum riding pleasure. North of the Sava Valley, the Karawanken mountains separate Slovenia and Austria. The largely forested border mountain range stretches far to the east and only ebbs away into the plain before Maribor. A lonely area where you hardly ever meet people on the way. Switching between countries on the main ridge is not always easy, however. Many paths end abruptly close to the border; back then, smugglers didn't want to make it so easy. Jure tells us how he once made his way along the border ridge in search of new trails. But that was only for adventurous bikers, he grins. On the other hand, a new crossing for mountain bikers was opened nearby at the Jepza saddle a few years ago, creating a link between Lake Faak and the Sava Valley. On the southern side of the Sava Valley you can experience great cinema. The Julian Alps have what it takes to rival the Dolomites. You don't need binoculars to admire the imposing rocky backdrop. Immediately behind Kranjska Gora, the rock pyramids rise into the sky. Only Triglav, the highest peak at almost 3,000 metres, is hidden behind an ensemble of peaks
The next day, my two guides are planning a detour to Italy. The neighbouring province of Friuli borders Slovenia to the west. We first head into the valley of Planica, where the world-famous ski jumps are clinging to the hillside, along a series of fun forest trails. The grippy ground makes for pure trail enjoyment. Who needs constantly blocked mogul slopes that make your teeth vibrate? We take a break in a small clearing. Here, an apparently esoteric artist has placed huge spirals of stones on the ground. A magical place to find your inner centre? Martina and Jure certainly seem to have found theirs long ago. Two years ago, they turned their passion into a profession. They quit their high-paying managerial jobs and opened their own small bike hotel. "This has always been our dream," enthuses Martina, her eyes shining. "Every time we came home from a biking holiday, it became clearer to us." And because Jure can't get enough of mountain biking, he recently took over the management of the bike park in Kranjska Gora. The jack-of-all-trades has no shortage of new ideas. The park is now also open in winter and fat bikes are available for hire.
Without realising it, we have already crossed the border. The two mountain lakes of Fusine lie romantically in a high valley. Their surfaces reflect the Mangart massif towering behind them. It doesn't get more kitschy than this postcard idyll. The highlight of the tour is still 500 metres away, vertically of course! But luckily the gravel path to the Rifugio Zacchi doesn't require the last reserves of energy. Bend by bend, the rock faces move closer together. The north face of the Mangart looms dizzyingly in front of us. At 2677 metres, the Klotz is the fourth highest mountain in the Julian Alps. Sitting in front of the hut, we take in the imposing panorama of the rocky dome. Tibetan prayer flags flutter in the wind. This must be what it feels like to have found your centre, I think.
On the last day, we head up to the Vrsic Pass for a second time. Jure has saved another singletrail treat for me for the finale. This time our route leads southwards down into the Soca Valley. But as peaceful and innocent as the valley lies before us today, the chequered history of modern-day Slovenia becomes even more tangible here. The region around the Soca Valley was one of the most fiercely contested areas during the world wars. The border was constantly shifting. Sometimes the valley belonged to Italy, then again to what was then Austria-Hungary. The infamous battles on the Isonzo front - the Soca ultimately flows through Italy as the Isonzo - cost the lives of hundreds of thousands of soldiers. The road over the Vrsic also dates back to that time, built by Russian prisoners of war. And very close by at the Passo del Predil is the "Path of Peace", where you can visit numerous memorials. Our path branches off from the Vrsic road and is quite untamed in the upper section. Some exposed passages even force us out of the saddle for a short time. But the fun factor increases with every metre downhill. I still can't keep hold of the rear wheel of my guides. Martina cycles through the hairpin bends with dreamlike confidence. There's been no sign of Jure for a long time. Home advantage. We meet up with him again when the path finally spits us out near the source of the Soca, right in the rocky heart of the Julian Alps. It's only when I'm back in the car on the way home that I remember: In all my trail euphoria, I completely forgot to ask Martina about the story of the giant girl. But at least that's a good reason to come back again.
Five things not to be missed in Kranjska Gora:
1st Tonkina Koca hut
The best place to stop for refreshments on the northern downhill from the Vrsic Pass. The hut is located at an altitude of 1420 metres, at the end of the first trail section. Chef Tonka Zadnikar is a fairy godmother in the kitchen, no one knows more about local specialities. And of course she makes everything herself, from the jam for breakfast to the herbal schnapps. A must-try: Buckwheat noodles (krapi), strudel and fried egg with grammeln (bacon). Info www.julijana.info/tonkina-kocait
2nd air show
Just a few kilometres from Kranjska Gora, the wild Planica Valley extends into the Julian Alps, also known as the "Valley of Ski Jumps". This is because one of the largest ski jumping facilities in the world is located at the entrance to the valley. In addition to the gigantic ski jump (jump record 248.5 metres), there are seven smaller ones. You can also watch jumpers training here in summer. Info www.planica.si
3. lake Bled
Lake Bled lies like a magical eye in front of the rocky bastion of the Julian Alps. And as if that wasn't kitsch enough on its own, a tiny island with a photogenic church is dreaming in the centre. An overdose of postcard idyll! And correspondingly famous. So it's best to avoid typical weekend excursions. Bled is located around 40 kilometres east of Kranjska Gora, and a detour can easily be combined with a trip to the capital Ljubljana. Info www.bled.si
4. winter fairy tale
Kranjska Gora is traditionally a winter sports centre. In contrast to many Alpine resorts, however, the Slovenian town has retained its family character. The ski resort is small but nice, and the slalom slope is feared in the World Cup. Cross-country skiers can let off steam on 40 kilometres of trails. But even in the bike park, a well-prepared snowbike slope remains open (November to March)! Planica only turns into a party mile during the ski jumping competitions.
5 Ljubljana
With a population of 300,000, Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia. When the rain clouds hang in the Julian Alps, you can enjoy a Mediterranean climate here at an altitude of just 300 metres. The city centre to the left and right of the Ljubljanica River is connected by many bridges and the historic centre is a protected monument. The town is only 90 kilometres from Kranjska Gora (regular bus connections). Info www.visitljubljana.com
INFO KRANJSKA GORA
The precinct:
The small ski resort of Kranjska Gora is located in the far north-west of Slovenia, at the border triangle with Austria and Italy. The Sava, Slovenia's largest river, has its source in the valley. The biking area stretches from the Karawanken (border mountains to Austria) to the Julian Alps, which are reminiscent of the Dolomites with their rugged rock towers. The highest mountain is the Triglav at 2864 metres. Freeriders can look forward to a bike park with chairlift and various routes.
Info: www.bike-park.si
Journey:
Via Austria: take the A8 motorway to Salzburg and continue on the A10 Tauern motorway (toll) to Villach in Carinthia. From Villach-Süd (a few kilometres to Udine/I) over the Wurzenpass to Kranjska Gora. Distance from Munich: 340 kilometres
Maps and tour information:
Compass map Julian Alps No. 64, 1:25000 and Compass map Karavanke West No. 61, 1:50000 Accommodation
Kranjska Gora offers accommodation ranging from campsites to 4-star hotels. The price level is generally moderate. Numerous huts in the valleys and on the Vrsic Pass also offer accommodation. Overview at the tourist board (see below)
Bike tip:
Flat house Berghi, Borovška cesta 27, SI-4280 Kranjska Gora, tel. 00386/31/682782, www.berghi.si
The owners Martina and Jure are real bike freaks. Jure also offers guided tours, including the multi-day Trans-Slovenia.
Bike shops:
Intersport, Borovška cesta 92, Kranjska Gora, Tel: 00386/51/285253
General information:
TIC - Tourist Information Centre Kranjska Gora, Kolodvorska ul. 1c, SI-4280 Kranjska Gora, tel. 00386/(0)4580/9440, www.kranjska-gora.si/de
You can read this article or the entire BIKE 12/2015 issue in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or buy the issue in the DK shop reorder:
Downloads:
Gitta Beimfohr
Editor
