Bikespot Lisbon: Why Portugal’s capital is a must-visit, especially in autumn

When the sun beats down on the peaks of the Sintra Mountains, which rise to heights of up to 500 metres, temperatures on the trails can soar to 40 degrees or more. Even the shade cast by the pine and holm oak trees can’t do much to help then. The trails then turn into dusty, sandy slopes where the tyres find very little grip. At least, that’s how it is in summer.

The city’s best cycling spots in autumn!

As autumn and late autumn approach, however, the Atlantic increasingly blows clouds into the Portuguese coastal mountains. Some linger in the woods as mist, whilst others occasionally pour down briefly – and that’s what makes the otherwise dry trails in Sintra so wonderfully grippy right now. For Lisbon’s locals, this is the best time of year for cycling, as the Sintra mountains lie just 40 kilometres west of the Portuguese capital. This means this superb spot can be reached quickly from the city by local train.

Yet Lisbon’s cyclists wouldn’t have to travel that far at all, as they’ve already been allowed to set up their own trail spot within the city limits. Specifically, in the 900-hectare Monsanto City Park. A green space with naturally growing trees, about three times the size of Central Park in New York. Here, a wide variety of lines wind their way down from the 220-metre-high summit. Some are completely natural, whilst others have been tweaked to enhance riding flow and airtime.

The third major cycling spot is located just under 50 kilometres south of the city: the Arrábida Nature Park near Setúbal. Here, too, the trails wind their way through cork oak forests, though they also occasionally skirt the edge of limestone cliffs and, on longer descents, require experience of dealing with steps, roots (which are naturally slippery in autumn!) and loose scree. A particular highlight of this spot: some trails end at a particularly beautiful beach!

Information about Monsanto Park

The 800-hectare park can be reached from the city centre via the Green Corridor (Corredor Verde), a 2.5-kilometre-long green belt which was created in 2012 exclusively for pedestrians and cyclists heading towards the park. The park itself bears little resemblance to a city park in the traditional sense. Instead of sterile lawns with rose beds and an array of benches, what you’ll find here – alongside a few leisure facilities – is mainly unspoilt woodland set in a hilly landscape reaching heights of up to 220 metres. Particularly in autumn, when the trees shed their leaves, glimpses of the Tagus river occasionally come into view.

Touring websites disagree on exactly how many trails now wind their way through Monsanto Forest. However, there are said to be up to 49 trail sections, lovingly maintained by the locals. Ranging from easy to ‘best to have a look at beforehand’. Jumps, rocks, roots, gaps and North Shore features – you don’t really need much more than that. The main lines:

Information about the Sintra Mountains

Lisbon’s largest and most varied spot is shared by cyclists, walkers and tourists, who come to this small coastal mountain range mainly to stroll amongst the Moorish castles and palaces. In the gnarled woods in between, however, you’ll hardly come across any walkers, which is why you usually have the trails all to yourself. Here, too, the locals have given the flow of the ride a bit of a helping hand with their spades.

Some of the trails are twice as long as those in Monsanto Park; the bends are smoother, and you’ll find natural jumps and rock gardens everywhere, right through to huge but surprisingly grippy rock slabs that you’ll need to pluck up the courage to tackle at first. An exciting mix on the Atlantic coast, where you can also come across the European downhill elite. The highest peak is Cruz Alta (528 m).

The organiser “We Ride” offers guided tours in this area, some of which are long trips all the way to the Atlantic coast, as well as a shuttle service. Information: weride.pt

A complete overview of the trails is available at trailforks.com

Arrábida Nature Park:

The nature reserve is situated south of Lisbon, on the other side of the Tagus. Trails have now been laid out here too, although they are very stony and blocky. An easier option is the Rota Trans Arrábida, which allows you to get a feel for the area at a gentle pace to begin with. A 115-kilometre-long signposted route through the entire nature park. For more information, visit alltrails.com