Amazonas is a powerful word. One that evokes associations: jungle. Piranhas. Strangler snakes. Roaring monkeys. Half-naked indigenous people with blowpipes on narrow boats and all kinds of other clichés. But on the "European Amazon", commonly known as the Danube, things look very different: Instead of sharp-toothed piranhas, there are heavy freshwater fish from the carp family in a pot, and our contact from the indigenous population is called Slobodan - a relaxed, smiling old man in a worn-out outdoor jacket, who shows us how to prepare the local fish stew after a paddle tour with his son Ljubisa has whetted our appetite.
Quite exotic: cycling through the Amazon of Europe
No, this is not Brazil. We are in Serbia, on a kilometre-long dead arm of the Danube. And that in itself is pretty exotic: foreigners rarely stray here, and even the locals mainly appear in the form of silent anglers. There is no sound apart from the occasional bird call and a splashing fish. No smell except that of damp earth, the thin smoke from Slobodan's cooking fire and the paprika powder that he throws into the soup by hand. His son Ljubisa, known as Ljuba for short, teaches us the first words of Serbian: his father, a former fisherman, is a "salas", a man of the river. The remote houses where professional fishermen, hobby anglers and occasional day trippers meet are "csardas". The power grid out here consists of two old car batteries that feed an old radio. Brazil's Amazon region could hardly be more exotic. A large glass of schnapps helps to familiarise yourself with the area.
When, after many hours, we get on our bikes, this remote corner of Serbia has taken shape in our memories - and the concept of the new cycle route has worked to some extent: Ljuba, who had to finish his studies abroad due to coronavirus, has connected us with his homeland as an explainer and translator. And his young outdoor company had two satisfied customers.
Cycle path on the trail of history
The European Union has subsidised the "Amazon of Europe" project in Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia and Hungary with a total of three million euros. Serbia is not part of the EU (although it does have candidate status), but it is essential for the route - and an investment there should also serve to ease the tension. In Osijek, on the Croatian riverbank, there is a depressing monument: a small red Fiat on a Russian tank commemorates Serbia's attack on its Croatian neighbour in the Balkan wars of the early 1990s. Because where foxes and herons say good night to each other today was the front line at the beginning of the war. Bullets and splinters are still stuck in the walls of Osijek's houses. The shelling left 800 dead. And to this day, German touring cyclists rather than Croatian day trippers still seem to cross the border bridge.
There is a lot of bouncing on the top of the dyke above the high, swampy alluvial forest. Our panniers are bouncing, our hands are cramping. If you believe the lines on the GPS map, we are constantly switching back and forth between Serbia and Croatia unnoticed on tiny tarmac roads, dirt tracks and Split. But this is just a historical border that ran through the middle of the river before the Danube once again sought a new path. The wide river itself, which the map shows nearby, remains invisible for hours. Is this Serbia, Croatia, Hungary? And where is the river anyway? The trees, birds and bees don't seem to care. And we don't see much else for long stretches: the area between the dykes on both banks is up to 15 kilometres wide and fills up with the floodwaters of the Drava and Danube at high tide. Large parts of the wild alluvial forests are more or less strictly regulated protected areas and bear the label "UNESCO Biosphere Reserve" - an area in which sustainable economic practices are tested and promoted.
At the destination: the open Danube and a magnificent view
In the end, it is Hungary that reunites cyclists and the river - after a harsh interruption to the natural idyll. A little way behind the rather unspectacular border between Serbia and EU member Hungary, the military had kicked up dust on black pick-ups and a sharply razor-cut path had interrupted the soft harmony of forest and meadow: Hungary is building a three or four metre high, flashing border fence, crowned by rolls of armoured wire and eyed by watchtowers. Anyone familiar with the remains of the "zone border" in Germany can imagine it. Then, just a few kilometres later, everything is relaxed and Amazonian again. Hobby anglers sit on another dead arm of the Danube. Nameplates at each spot indicate whether Gabor or Istvan is holding the line in the water.
But we park the bikes on a small, fenced-in plot of land and meet Endre, recognisable as a national park ranger in his hunting green outfit. "There are more anglers in Hungary than footballers," he jokes. But part of his job is to familiarise youth groups with river nature without eating its inhabitants. Our fibreglass canoe glides over the stagnant arm of the river into a flooded riparian forest. It is a slalom between trees, and every time Endre stops the boat, he has seen something again: Huge sea eagles, darting kingfishers, even black storks are at home here. With gentle strokes of the paddle, we float onwards over watered forest tracks and through canals. Then a weak current pushes brownish water into the flooded forest. "It's been raining in Germany and Austria," says Endre, "the water is rising." Shortly afterwards, the alluvial forest and the watercourse open up to reveal a tremendous sight: The open Danube has been reached - smooth but frighteningly fast-flowing water. Brownish and at least 200 metres wide, the river flows past us towards Croatia, Serbia, Romania and the Black Sea. We carefully turn the bow back towards the bike car park. Just don't capsize - there might be piranhas lurking here at the end after all!
Information about the Amazon of Europe cycle path
The route of the Amazon of Europe cycle path
The total distance of the "AOE Biketrail" is a good 1,200 kilometres and runs mainly along the Drava and later along the Danube through five countries. The section we are describing is the eastern part from Osijek in Croatia. The northern and southern routes have been combined into a circular tour of around 270 kilometres in four stages. It touches Croatia, Serbia and Hungary. Travelling there and back on your own is time-consuming. If you have more time and are travelling by public transport, you should start further west. In the section we travelled, part of the predominantly flat route runs on dirt and gravel roads, almost always with very little traffic. Thick tyres or a suspension fork are a good idea.
GPS data
You can find the GPS data for the MYBIKE circular tour on the Amazon of Europe cycle path here for free download or in the MYBIKE Collection on komoot.
The concept
The "Amazon of Europe Biketrail" not only comprises a marked route through five countries, but also aims to provide a deeper insight into the culture of the host countries through additional experiences selected in the booking centre - so-called "amazing moments" - and to involve larger sections of the population in the tourism business in the regions, some of which are structurally weak. Offers of this kind include nature tours, canoe trips or the joint preparation of local specialities. The concept was supported by the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) and the European Union.
Best time to travel
Spring and autumn. Midsummer is often hot and rich in mosquitoes from the riparian forests.
Arrival
Railway: Travelling by train to the starting point in Osijek requires enthusiasm. It takes around ten hours from Munich to Zagreb, including cycle transport. From there it is at least another five hours (280 kilometres). Trains with bike transport cannot be booked online.
Bus: Flixbus travels from Munich to Osijek in 15 hours. If you book in good time, the journey costs just 40 euros - but only without the bike, which would have to be rented locally.
Accommodation
Apatin, Serbia: Hotel Marina, Tel.: +381 (0)25 5150068, www.marinaapatin.rs
Modern flat hotel located directly on an arm of the river with a view of the harbour full of fishing boats. Overnight/ double room approx. 40 euros.
Zmajevac, Croatia: Baranjski Dvori, Tel.: +385 (0)91 200 58 85, baranjskidvori.com.hr
Former small homestead with a spacious courtyard and very good regional cuisine. The friendly owner speaks English. Double room/room approx. 60 euros.
General information
The most comprehensive information and GPS data for all sections of the "Amazon of Europe Biketrail" can be found on the aoebiketrail.com website. This booking centre also offers organised trips on sections of the trail. The one-week "Explorer" variant includes the transfer to and from Mureck (near Graz) as well as most of our route.
