Are the small Canary Islands better than the big ones?

Gitta Beimfohr

 · 18.05.2017

Are the small Canary Islands better than the big ones?Photo: Markus Greber
Are the small Canary Islands better than the big ones?
Our winter is great - but: too long! Less than a five-hour flight away, the Canary Islands beckon with spring-like temperatures and fabulous trails. But which of the seven islands is the right one?


In this Canary Islands Special we have compiled all the important information for these islands for you:


LA PALMA

The greenest island in the Canary Islands is every biker's favourite winter destination. A chain of volcanoes towers out of the Atlantic Ocean in a very small area, which is criss-crossed by trails. However, if you want to have fun here, you should have good riding technique.


TENERIFFA

The island is three times the size of La Palma and is home to Spain's highest peak, the 3718 metre-high Pico del Teide. The landscape is also more diverse - but is largely protected. Unfortunately, trail fans have to stay outside.


LA GOMERA

No matter how winding Gomera's paths and roads are: On this green island, you have to be able to cope with steep climbs. There are two downhill options: easy sandy tracks or quite rough trail challenges.


GRAN CANARIA

From the highest peak in the centre of the island, the canyons stretch down to the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches are packed with bathing tourists, but on the trails in the centre of the island you can really get to know the western backdrop of Gran Canaria.


EL HIERRO

For a long time, the smallest of the seven large Canary Islands led a shadowy existence on bikers' maps. Quite wrongly, as a freeride tour organiser from Tenerife has now discovered. You just have to track down the good trails!

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FUERTEVENTURA / LANZAROTE

You can leave your raincoat at home on a biking holiday on Fuerte or Lanzarote. A windbreaker makes much more sense on a tour over the imposing desert hills.

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LA PALMA

The greenest island in the Canary Islands is every biker's favourite winter destination. A chain of volcanoes towers out of the Atlantic Ocean in a very small area and is criss-crossed by trails. However, if you want to have fun here, you should have good riding technique.


The precinct
Even from the highest peak on the island, the Roque de los Muchachos (2426 m), a trail descent specially developed for bikers winds down through the climate zones to the black sandy beach of Tazacorte. Los Llanos and Puerto Naos on the west coast are the best starting points for easy forest road tours through to challenging enduro trail descents. This is also where the bike centres are located, which can help out with shuttles, guides and spare equipment.


The climate
Spring temperatures of around 20 degrees Celsius surround La Palma throughout the winter - but only in the coastal region. At the top of the peaks, the north-east trade wind sometimes blows snowflakes. But the Sahara wind quickly blows the white fluff away again. In terms of clothing, you should therefore be prepared for anything. Especially nice: bad weather clouds usually get stuck at an altitude of 2000 metres in the Canary Islands. This means that the summit still peaks around 400 metres above the sea of cotton wool and is bathed in sunlight.


The trails
Many trails on La Palma consist either of deep sand, sharp-edged volcanic rock or are covered with a slippery carpet of pine needles. In addition to safe riding technique, you also need a feel for steep terrain. But there are also flow trails: e.g. from the Pico de las Nieves, the Cumbre Nueva and the Volcán Martin downhill.


New: Shuttle for freeriders
The bike shuttle points map: On La Palma, the trail entrances are so high that you have to rely on the shuttle. You can now call a shuttle taxi yourself, independently of an organiser. You pay with a points card. The driver will take 3 points for the longest journey to the summit. The card plus zone overview is available on site in the bars or on the Internet. 10 points cost 99 euros. More information: www.lapalmafreeride.com

  Spain - Canary Islands: La PalmaPhoto: Markus Greber Spain - Canary Islands: La Palma


INFO


Flight
Direct flights to La Palma (SPC) are offered by Condor (bike transport 75 euros/route), Air Berlin (bike transport 115 euros/route) and Tuifly (bike transport 65 euros/route). For comparison: A rental bike on site (e.g. Scott Genius 740/750) costs 174 euros for six days). Flight time from Germany: approx. 5 hours.

Tour literature
"Mountainbike Guide La Palma" with 15 tours and
5 single trails by Ralf Schanze and Siegmund Schüler, Price: 16,90 Euro, Info: www.mtb-lapalma.com (GPS data can also be purchased without the book)


TENERIFFA

The island is three times the size of La Palma and is home to Spain's highest peak, the 3718 metre-high Pico del Teide. The landscape is also more diverse - but is largely protected. Unfortunately, trail fans have to stay outside.


The precinct
In terms of scenery, Tenerife offers the greatest variety of tours in the Canary Islands: In the far north-east, the 1000 metre high Anaga mountains await with lush jungle trails. As the trade wind clouds sometimes linger here, you can expect cooler temperatures and raindrops in this region. The Teide towers in the centre of the island. You can hike up to its summit for hours (by road) and then circle back down along its gigantic flanks on dusty ash tracks. But be careful: the Teide is surrounded by extensive nature reserves. Within these zones, all trails are off-limits to bikers and offenders will not be punished lightly. The best starting point for tours is Puerto de la Cruz on the north coast.


The climate
The north-east trade wind also blows rain clouds towards Tenerife's mountains and lets them rain down there. In contrast, the south-west and the summit regions above 2000 metres remain mostly sunny and dry. Nevertheless, you don't always get wet on the northern slopes of the mountains. Sometimes the clouds simply billow through the laurel forests as photogenic mist.


Trails
Trails are now a difficult topic on Tenerife. Tour organisers have complained to the island's government about the many closures and high fines. As a result, special trails for bikers were promised. The result is an official 200-kilometre "Red de Bica" trail network, which mountain bikers have to share with horse riders. The only pity is that these gravel paths do not contain any trails. Nevertheless, there are also authorised trails whose entrances can even be reached by normal bus. You need to be technically fit here too, as the trails are often rough, rugged, flanked by sharp-edged volcanic rocks and lead down steep cliffs in the tightest of hairpin bends. There are counter-climbs for fitness training.

  Spain - Canary Islands: TenerifePhoto: Ale Di Lullo Spain - Canary Islands: Tenerife


INFO


Flight
Tenerife is so big that there are even two airports: Tenerife South (TFS) and Tenerife North (TFN). The north is not so touristy and bikers have shorter journey times to the interesting trail areas. But: There are no direct flights from Germany to TFN. Flight time from Germany to TFS: approx. 4.5 hours. Bike transport costs like La Palma. A hire bike (e.g. Canyon Nerve) costs 190 euros for six days.


Bus shuttle
The bus lines "Linias turisticas" are obliged to take bikes in the hold. Cheapest shuttle for the downhill from Teide (bus route 348). www.titsa.com


LA GOMERA

No matter how winding Gomera's paths and roads are: On this green island, you have to be able to cope with steep climbs. There are two downhill options: easy sandy tracks or quite rough trail challenges.


The precinct
La Gomera is only half the size of La Palma in terms of area and only half as high. The highest peak on the island, Garajonay, measures just 1487 metres. That's just high enough to catch the rain-giving trade wind clouds from the sky. This is life-sustaining for the famous laurel forest, the metre-high ferns and palm trees, but unfortunately the fog spoils the summit panorama for touring bikers. However, the Gomera forest is a World Heritage Site and is a real experience in itself. The island's climbs, on the other hand, are more difficult. Steep and winding, the paths wind their way up the gorge-like valleys. There is no flat road connecting the valleys along the coastline. So if you drive down a valley, you have to drive up it again later. However, there are plenty of taxis travelling around the island. This means that the tour can be shortened if necessary. Both bike centres on the island are located in the touristically developed Valle Gran Rey. Individualists will feel more at home in Vallehermoso.


The climate
As La Gomera is not so high, the trade wind clouds can spill over the entire summit region. On the other hand, the temperature fluctuations are limited. Even in bad weather, temperatures on the Garajonay are usually still in the double digits. The northern part of the island gets more moisture and is correspondingly greener.


The trails
At least 150 millimetres of suspension travel, well-maintained brakes and puncture-proof tyres are the basic ingredients for maximum riding fun on La Gomera. The trails wind their way down steeply sloping valleys in tight bends. If the abyss lurks on one side of the handlebars, ear cacti can be seen extending their spines on the other. Meanwhile, tyres and suspension struggle with ancient cobblestones and loose rubble. But from time to time you can also enjoy a relaxed ride over dusty sandy paths.

  Spain - Canary Islands: La GomeraPhoto: Mario Wahl Spain - Canary Islands: La Gomera


INFO


Flight
There are no direct flights to La Gomera from international airports. You fly to Tenerife South (TFS), take a taxi to the harbour of Los Christianos (20 minutes) and then take the ferry to San Sebastian on La Gomera (1 hour/37 euros). Info: www.gomera.de


Rental car
If you don't want to go on a group tour, it's best to hire a car to reach the various tour starting points. Tip: The local providers are significantly cheaper.


Tours and rental bikes
Rental bikes: e.g. Scott Genius for 7 days for 182 euros.
www.bike-station-gomera.com
www.gomera-bikes.com


GRAN CANARIA

From the highest peak in the centre of the island, the canyons stretch down to the Atlantic Ocean. The beaches are packed with bathing tourists, but on the trails in the centre of the island you can really get to know the western backdrop of Gran Canaria.


The precinct
Gran Canaria is probably the second most popular German island after Mallorca. So it's no wonder that the southern coastline in particular is overbuilt with hotel resorts. The most beautiful corners, gorges and rock formations on the island can therefore be found in the centre of the island. How do you get there? Either with an organiser who sets up base camp far away from mass tourism and then sets off on a trail circuit through the canyons. Or on a discovery tour, for example in the form of the three-day Gran Canaria crossing on the route of the famous ultra run. The 90-kilometre route with its 5,000 metres in altitude does not miss any scenic highlights and even leads over the highest peak, the Pico de las Nieves (1949 m).


The climate
The south and west coast of Gran Canaria is very rarely irrigated from above. The sand dunes on the coast are evidence of this, as are the dust-dry canyons, which could easily serve as a western backdrop. In the north-east of the island, but also in the interior around the Pico de las Nieves, the trade wind clouds can sometimes hang around for days. This obscures the view, but also ensures lush green mountain flanks, which in turn is a feast for the eyes. The water temperature never drops below 17 degrees all year round. In the mountains, on the other hand, it can get chilly. A warm jacket belongs in your rucksack!


The trails
Sand, sharp-edged rocks, boulders and thorn bushes pave the paths through the interior of Gran Canaria. However, the many ups and downs are rather gruelling. But the landscape through the rugged volcanic mountains more than makes up for the hardships. If you are planning to cross the island, you should remember to bring enough water and food, as the towns in the interior are several kilometres apart and there are even more energy-sapping climbs.

  Spain - Canary Islands: Gran CanariaPhoto: Dan Milner Spain - Canary Islands: Gran Canaria


INFO


Flight
Gran Canaria (LPA) is served by direct flights from Germany several times a day. Taking your own bike despite the high transport costs? For comparison: A well-maintained hire bike (e.g. 2017 model Cannondale Habit) costs 144 euros for six days.


Crossing the island
Our photographer Dan Milner crossed the island on a slightly modified ultra-marathon route: 90 km/5000 m/3 days. You can find his report including GPS data at: www.bike-magazin.de, webcode: #19963


EL HIERRO

For a long time, the smallest of the seven large Canary Islands led a shadowy existence on bikers' maps. Quite wrongly, as a freeride tour organiser from Tenerife has now discovered. You just have to track down the good trails!


The precinct
It is just five years since an underwater volcanic eruption shook the small island. Numerous aftershocks have caused some of the population to flee. As a result, only 6000 people still live on El Hierro today - and they are happy to welcome every visitor. Regardless of whether they come with hiking boots or mountain bikes. Of course, there are no large-scale hotel centres along the coastline. That's why many trails really do end right by the sea. It is fitting that the sea here still has a bathing temperature of 18 degrees even in winter. The highest point on the island is the 1501 metre high Malpaso. The best starting point for tours is the El Golfo valley in the north-west of the island. In its relatively gently sloping valley sides, you can pedal leisurely through orchards and vineyards and also find a few pretty restaurants that have not yet been overrun by tourism. The home of the new bike station.


The climate
The most south-westerly island in Europe also benefits from the north-easterly trade winds. Although the laurel forests on El Hierro are not quite as dense as on La Palma and La Gomera, there is enough shade to provide greenery. Throughout the winter, the temperature near the coast is 20 degrees, while the wind is much cooler in the summit regions.


The trails
El Hierro's trails are one thing above all: lonely. Conflicts with hikers or other bikers are therefore impossible here. You will also look in vain for driving bans. From a purely technical point of view, you have to be prepared for trails that wind through lava fields or forests and lay scree of varying sizes in the way. Although the island is another 100 square kilometres smaller than La Gomera, guide Ralf Schanze promises enough trail tours for a whole week.

  Spain - Canary Islands: El HierroPhoto: Veranstalter Spain - Canary Islands: El Hierro


INFO


Flight
El Hierro only has a small airport and can only be reached by plane from Tenerife North or Gran Canaria (several times a day). Alternatively: Fly to Tenerife South (TFS), then take the fast ferry from San Sebastian to El Hierro. Ferry once a day, price: 99 euros return, one-way journey time: 2.5 hours, info: www.navieraarmas.com


Tours and rental bikes
Just opened in October 2016 and equipped with well-maintained rental bikes: the new branch of the Tenerife
station www.mtb-active.com


Accommodation
Beautiful rustic flats:
www.alsitio-elhierro.es and www.lascasitas-elhierro.es


FUERTEVENTURA / LANZAROTE

You can leave your raincoat at home on a biking holiday on Fuerte or Lanzarote. A windbreaker makes much more sense on a tour over the imposing desert hills.


The precinct
The Canary Islands, which are the quickest to reach from Germany, look quite dusty even from the aeroplane. Volcanic rock and sand form a hilly touring backdrop here. There are green oases - but they are few and far between. The locals say that these oversized sandcastles in the middle of the Atlantic have a very special power.


The climate
807 metre high peaks are definitely too low. You can't use them to clear north-east trade wind clouds from the sky. The laden air cushions simply sweep over Fuerteventura and Lanzarote without letting a drop fall. This means that the two islands lack the jungle aspect typical of the Canary Islands. But there is plenty of wind. The gusts can send the sand flying up to knee height. This looks great, but gives bare calves a sandblast.


The trails
The tours on Fuerteventura and Lanzarote mainly lead along undulating sandy tracks. But every now and then, goat trails branch off through the centre of the island, which are great fun. But beware of the sharp-edged volcanic rock. It doesn't just tear up tyres and tubes.

  Spain - Canary Islands: Fuerteventura / LanzarotePhoto: Stef Candé Spain - Canary Islands: Fuerteventura / Lanzarote


INFO Fuerte


Flight
Fuerteventura (FUE) is served by direct flights from Germany several times a week. As bike transport to the Canary Islands is now very expensive, it is worth taking a hire bike. Hardtails, fullys and fat bikes from KTM and Stevens are available from 14 euros per day.


The trails
There are mainly sandy slopes on the island, which has a maximum altitude of 807 metres. Depending on the strength of the wind, your calves may get sandblasted. But there are also trails across the desert hills which, according to the tour organiser, are a unique experience, especially at night, without a lamp, in the moonlight.


INFO Lanzarote


Flight
Lanzarote (ACE) is also served by direct flights from Germany several times a week (e.g. Air Berlin, Condor). If you want to combine Lanzarote and Fuerteventura: The ferry journey between the islands only takes 25 minutes.


The trails
Although the island is only half the size of Fuerteventura, its landscape is somewhat more varied. Highest point: Peñas del Chache, 671 metres. The tours lead over undulating sandy tracks, from which a very nice goat path with beautiful views branches off from time to time.


You can read this article or the entire BIKE 12/2016 issue in the BIKE app (iTunes and Google Play) or buy the issue in the DK shop reorder:

Gitta Beimfohr joined the BIKE travel resort during her tourism studies when the Strada delle 52 Gallerie on the Pasubio was closed to mountain bikers. Since Gitta crossed the Alps twice at racing speed, she has favoured multi-day tours - by MTB in the Alps or by gravel bike through the German low mountain ranges.

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