Character
The county of Suffolk is located in the far east of England, north-east of London. There are no prominent towns, the slightly undulating area (the highest "mountain" is only 128 metres high) is mainly used for agriculture and is sparsely populated.
Due to its location on the North Sea, the climate is rather cool, but temperate. Statistically, there is no more rainfall than the German average. The route described here partly follows well-marked cycle paths (e.g. "National Cycle Route" No. 1 and No. 51), but also meanders along small, tarmac side roads without cycle path signposting. Gears suitable for uphill cycling are mandatory. Overall, the signposting of the roads is very good.
The stages
Day 1: 60 km, 450 m elevation gain
Needham Market - Bentley - Flatford - East Bergholt - Dedham - Stoke by Nayland After a few kilometres, the detour to Flatford sets the tone: the settlement served the romantic painter John Constable as a model for several paintings at the beginning of the 19th century. It looks almost exactly the same today as it did back then.
Day 2: 35 km, 350 m ascent
Stoke-by-Nayland - Hadleigh - Lindsey - Monks Eleigh - Preston St Mary - Lavenham This short stage through the rolling countryside hides three highlights for fans of English country life: the former wool merchant town of Hadleigh, the hilly town of Kersey and the medieval town of Lavenham.
Day 3: 64 km, 500 m elevation gain
Lavenham - Hartest - Bury St Edmunds - Badwell Ash - Stoke Ash The highlight here is also a settlement: the almost 1000-year-old town of Bury St Edmunds. The lavishly dimensioned churches indicate how rich the town once was. The cathedral was only "officially" completed in 2005 after a good 500 years of construction.
Day 4: 65 km, 350 m elevation gain
Stoke Ash - Debenham - Framlingham - Peasenhall - Westleton If you want to look really knightly, there is no way round the ruins of Framlingham. First and foremost, visit the walls here; good views from the top of the wall.
Day 5: 55 km, 200 m elevation gain
Westleton - Halesworth - Southwold - Walberswick - Dunwich - Westleton Back to farmland once again to finally visit the nostalgically pretty seaside resort of Southwold - the only stage of the tour with a direct sea view.
Day 6: 70 km, 300 metres in altitude
Westleton - Leiston Abbey - Blaxhall - Woodbridge - Ipswich The remains of Leiston Abbey date back to the 14th century. From Woodbridge onwards, cycle signposting on minor roads all the way to Ipswich.
Travelling time
Mid-April to mid-October. A dip in the North Sea is a refreshing experience even in summer.
Arrival
The quickest way to get here is via London Stanstead Airport, e.g. with Easyjet, Ryanair, Germanwings and AirBerlin. The airport is directly connected to Ipswich by airport bus (National Express, line X5, approx. 24 euros). The express bus takes packed bicycles in the luggage compartment.
Information
Visit Britain; www.visitbritainshop.com
Accommodation
Given the scarcity of hotels and the confusing road network, an individual package holiday is a good choice. The renovated, ancient inns have a special charm and are an important part of the travelling experience in Suffolk. We particularly liked:
Stoke-by-Nayland: The Angel Inn, tel. +44 1787 247 388; www.angelinnsuffolk.co.uk
Good food (main courses around 20 euros), guest garden, nice dining room.
Lavenham: The Angel Hotel, tel. +44 1787 247 388; www.wheelersangel.com
Extremely stylish parlour and authentic sloping floors; the house is said to have been built in 1420 and is run by a famous chef.
Westleton: The Westleton Crown, tel. +44 1728 648 777; www.westletoncrown.co.uk
The main house with the restaurant is said to date back to the 12th century. The food here is far better than the reputation of English gastronomy would suggest.
Food
Ipswich: Nicholas Street in the old town centre is lined with a number of eateries. We ate well and relatively cheaply at both the Turkish "Türquoise" (No. 25) and the "Kwan Thai" (No. 14).
Dedham: The Essex Rose. Until 5.30 pm, you can enjoy a cream tea in the teahouse.
View
Woodbridge: Tidal mill at the mouth of the River Deben. Historic mill powered by the tide. Renovated and - depending on the tide - in motion. www.woodbridgesuffolk.info.
Bury St. Edmunds: Guided tours through the historic town centre, daily at 2 pm, tickets for approx. 5 euros in advance at the tourist information office (alternative: audio guide, approx. 3.20 euros).
Literature/Maps/GPS data
The most precise maps for this tour are provided by Ordnance Survey (1:50,000, maps no. 155, 156, 169, approx. 9 euros each). Navigation by GPS is much easier here. Downloadable routes (but not the route described here) can be found at: www.gps-routes.co.uk/routes/home.nsf/county-cycling/Suffolk
Tour operator Radweg-Reisen offers the Suffolk Tour as a seven-day trip. With accommodation, luggage transport and bike hire, it costs from 700 euros. Phone +49 7531 81 99 30; www.radweg-reisen.com
