Lipno lies on the banks of the Vltava reservoir in the far south-west of the Czech Republic. Over the last 20 years, this small resort town has developed into one of the largest tourist centres in the Czech Republic. On the other side of the lake, the Bohemian Forest (Czech: "Šumava", "the rushing one") forms the natural border mountain range to Bavaria and Upper Austria. The most interesting trails for mountain bikers are certainly the built trails, which are accessed by two modern chairlifts. Those who find the Eastern European Disneyland charm too colourful can escape to the hinterland in just a few minutes - or to the other side of the lake. The artificially dammed Vltava lies 725 metres above sea level. The extensive, flat mountain ridges of the Šumava only break the thousand metre mark in a few places. Due to the constant ups and downs, tours with four-digit altitude metres are quickly reached here too. Outside the bike park and the so-called Floutrejls, you ride close to the Czech-Austrian border in a virtually deserted no man's land. Please note: Although the Czech Republic belongs to the EU, it is not part of the monetary union. Payment is made in Czech crowns (CZK). However, euros are readily accepted - and you will usually get your change back in euros. By the way: an après-bike beer here costs 27 to 30 crowns, the equivalent of about one euro.
The area guide costs 1.99 euros. Inside you will find the BIKE web code, which will take you to the download of the free GPS data for these tours.
From Munich, take the A92 motorway to Deggendorf and via Passau and Upper Austria to Lipno (280 km/3:30 hours). From Nuremberg on the A3 motorway via Regensburg to Passau and continue as above (315 km/4 hours). From Dresden via Prague to Lipno (350 km/4:15 hours).
The idyllic Lipno Modˇrin campsite is located just outside Lipno directly on the lake - the perfect base camp for bike tours around the Vltava. Opening hours: from the end of May to the end of September. Tel. 00420/731/410803, info: www.campinglipno.cz
If you prefer a permanent roof over your head, Jan Kubik, the mayor of Louˇcovice, offers simple but beautiful accommodation. He and his wife Petra Kubikova run a guesthouse on the outskirts of Louˇcovice. You can stay here from the equivalent of 13 euros. Tel. 00420/774/186666, info: www.pensionpodlipou.cz
Directly at the valley station of the Lipno Express (Jezerní) chairlift, in the Lanovka Intersport hut opposite the car park, you can hire DH, freeride and, more recently, full-suspension children's bikes. A downhill bike costs around 65 euros for a day, a freeride bike around 56 euros and a hardtail 30 euros. Tel. 00420/731/656154, e-mail: bike@lipnoservis.cz
Co-designed by Czech trail building guru Tomáš Kvasnicka, the bike park shows its fast, fun side. First you take the Lipno Express quad chairlift from Lipno up to the mountain station, then you whizz down the other side of the mountain 180 metres to the valley station of the Promenádni chairlift. There is a choice of a blue, 1,800 metre-long and a red, 1,200 metre-long course with lots of berms, Northshore elements, wall rides and kickers. There are chickenways everywhere. Back to Lipno, you can either take the exit trail directly under the chairlift or the super-flat and fully family-friendly Floutrejl Lipno. Speaking of which: the bike park is suitable for children aged eight and over. Riding technique training is also offered. Prices: A day ticket for adults costs the equivalent of 17 euros, one for the little ones 11 euros.
Opening hours: The bike park and touring fun with lift support starts in May. The opening hours of the Lipno Express chairlift: 9.30 am to 6.15 pm. From June until the end of the season in mid-October, the lift opens at 9.00 am and closes at 6.15 pm.
Info: Bikepark Lipno
Lipno Info Centre: Lipno nad Vltavou 87, tel. 00420/731/410800 or 00420/380/736053, e-mail: infocentrum@lipno. Info: www.lipno.info
Lipno is one thing above all: a family holiday paradise! High ropes course, summer toboggan run, Kingdom of the Forest nature adventure park, 700 metre treetop trail with 40 metre high viewing tower (and slide), scooter rides on the Floutrejl - around the Jezerní chairlift, holidaymakers of all ages can enjoy all kinds of attractions. Lipno is also the spot for water lovers: The marina is one of the largest in Central Europe (!), and you can take an excursion steamer up and down the dammed Vltava. If the weather is bad, a visit to Aquaworld is well worthwhile.
Culture? The historic old town of ˇCeský Krumlov is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Vltava forms a bend in the middle of the town, hence the name "krumme Au", which later became Krummau and Krumlov. The town, which is well worth a visit, is just over half an hour's drive from Lipno. Also pretty: the idyllic village of Horní Planá, which nestles on the banks of the Vltava reservoir. The writer Adalbert Stifter was born here in 1805. His birthplace now serves as a museum. The town of Vyšši Brod is a treasure trove of natural and cultural beauty in South Bohemia. Worth seeing: the Cistercian monastery with post museum. Worth experiencing: the wet and cheerful canoe trips from here on the Vltava to ˇCeský Krumlov.