If the gods had built a pump track, it would look exactly like this. A superlative of rock, scree and sand. Stunned, we stand at the Greitspitze at an altitude of almost 3000 metres and stare at this fillet of singletrack that rolls out in front of us for kilometres along a narrow ridge. And if the cable car and a full battery hadn't lifted us up to the top floor of the Silvretta, we would probably never have discovered this gem.
Take the gondola to the first floor and then climb up to the penthouse locations of the Silvretta Group, fit and with a fresh battery. The people of Ischgl realised back in the 90s that this concept had a future and would also make full use of the lift infrastructure in summer. They created the prototype of all alpine bike parks.
The gondola as an ascent aid - that was a revolution. And so, in August 1995, I set off for Ischgl with my Munich bike clique. Floating up silently and then enjoying a 2000 metre descent - for us downhill fans, it was like a land of milk and honey. However, the term "flow" had not yet been born. So we rumbled down the ski slope to the Idalpe with short suspension travel in the fall line.
"Ride up, ride down - the cable car opens up new dimensions" was the title of an article I was allowed to write as a guest author for Ischgl magazine. Since then, a lot has happened when it comes to biking in the "Ibiza of the Alps". There has been no shortage of superlatives. The Ischgl Ironbike, the marathon with the highest prize money in the world, was invented. Transalp pope Uli Stanciu was brought on board as a consultant, bike legend Hans Rey as spokesman and the Innsbruck representatives as trail builders. Everyone who is anyone in the bike circus came to Ischgl on a more or less regular basis.
But it wasn't just the celebrity factor that helped the ski Eldorado become famous in summer. The trail network has also grown over the years to an impressive 754 kilometres. The first trail built in Paznaun, the Velill Trail, a rough, steep descent with jumps and berms, was followed by a further 36 signposted bike tours. In addition, a bike infrastructure with special hotels, hire stations and shops has grown.
The divine pump track has now led us in endless hairpin bends to the Salaaser Kopf, where we take a sharp left turn. Already on the Samnaun side, we now glide through the wild beauty of the high alpine Silvretta group. Shortly before Alp Trida, there is another perfectly shaped flow trail before the gravel ascent to the Viderjoch lets us sink back into the saddle. From there, we carve down the Flimjoch singletrail in wide radii and with a loose finger on the brakes. The course, built for bikers, runs right next to the piste that taught us to fear almost 25 years ago. It's like nostalgic cinema, and the film plays out again before my eyes.
A lot has happened in the original bike park of the Alps. That's why EMTB photographer and author Markus Greber was back in Ischgl to scout out the four most beautiful MTB tours for e-mountain bikers. The result - four top tours including descriptions and GPS data - can be found here.
High alpine rocky trails, gentle alpine paths, gnarled huts - These four MTB tours connect all the highlights of the region around Ischgl.
1 Smugglers' trails
It is the royal tour of Ischgl and the pride of the local biking community. No wonder, because this tour really has everything you need for a fulfilling day of touring: magnificent views, trails in all their facets and physical challenges.
Take the gondola up to the Idalpe and then the chairlift to the Äußere Viderjoch. Only the last, steep ascent to the 2871 metre high Greitspitze has to be tackled under your own steam. Up here, a picture-book trail balances along the ridge heading south. A short ascent to the Salaaser Kopf, then the trail drops steeply downhill and finally winds its way down the slope to Alp Trida.
On the last 200 metres downhill, passionate mountain bikers have created a perfect flow trail with berms and jumps in the landscape. After a good 400 metres of ascent on gravel, you finally reach the Viderjoch and plunge directly into the Flimjoch rocky trail, which winds steeply in endless, sometimes slippery serpentines to the Idalpe.
Those who were able to manage their resources well will now just make it up to the Viderjoch with the first battery before the grand finale of this super tour: the steep Velill Trail carved into the rock.
2 Paznaun hut loop
It doesn't always have to be technically challenging trails. Sometimes it's also nice if you don't have to concentrate on the ground all the time, but can let your gaze wander. Just like on this tour, which takes you from hut to hut on easy gravel paths and offers sweeping panoramic views of the Silvretta group.
From Ischgl, the route initially heads into the valley on flat forest and gravel paths. After just under eight kilometres, take a sharp left into the secluded Lareintal valley. If you're feeling hungry after almost 500 metres in altitude, you can fortify yourself with homemade specialities at the Lareinalm before descending steeply on gravel and short trail sections to the valley floor.
This means that you are well prepared for the 15 gravel bends that lead up to the Friedrichshafener Hütte on the other side of the valley. Nestled at the foot of the Verwall group and with far-reaching views of the Silvretta, the hut offers a very good menu and even a small swimming pond to cool off in.
If you don't want to roll downhill the same way, you can branch off onto the trail shortcuts between the gravel bends. But be careful: it's steep and technically challenging here!
3 To the Durrichalpe
On the Durrichalpe, high above Kappl, time seems to have stood still. Gnarled, weather-beaten alpine huts bask in the sun here on a mountain meadow just above the tree line. A backdrop that makes you want to shoot a Heidi film. However, you have to bring your own snacks, as the hut is not serviced.
From Ischgl, you first roll out of the valley to Kappl. There, the route turns off onto a forest road, which you follow for five kilometres through the forest, sometimes climbing steeply. At some point, the path brushes off the last trees and leads into a beautiful high moor landscape. Now it is only a few more turns of the crank to the Durrichalpe, 1900 metres above sea level.
So much for the idyllic scenery. The second part of the tour gets interesting in terms of riding technique: from the Durrichalpe, you roll back to the main trail, but then take the path towards Gasthof Dias. The Dias Trail, the singletrail highlight of Kappl, starts shortly after the hut.
The path winds its way through dense fairytale forest and then over bumpy meadows back to Kappl (beware, hikers have priority!). Then it's a gentle up and down on tarmac and gravel paths back to Ischgl.
4 Heidelberg hut
The Heidelberger Hütte has been a must for those crossing the Alps for decades. If you don't spend the night here on your way south, you can at least stop for a dumpling soup before continuing the ascent to the legendary Fimber Pass.
But of course you can also visit the hut on an exciting day trip. You could simply climb the 13 kilometres on asphalt and gravel from Ischgl up the Fimba Valley to the hut and roll back down the same way, done.
But - and very few people realise this - you can also garnish the tour to the Heidelberger Hütte with the finest single trails: The best way to manage the tour with just one battery is to take the Silvrettabahn cable car up to the Idalpe at 2307 metres above sea level.
This is where the trail fun begins on flow trails through the alpine meadows. You then fight your way up an ultra-steep uphill ramp to the Sassgalunkopf and enter a narrow, technically challenging trail descent at the top. Halfway up, it leads into the Fimba Valley, where only 500 metres of easy climbing await you up to the Heidelberger Hütte. The route back down the Fimba valley. If you want, you can spice up the descent with short trail detours just before Ischgl.
Precinct Ischgl lies at an altitude of 1377 metres in Paznaun in Tyrol. Nestled between the three thousand metre peaks of the Silvretta, Samnaun and Verwall groups, there are plenty of touring options from here. From easy gravel tours in the valley to leisurely alpine pasture tours to high alpine trail adventures along the ridge, everything is possible. The signposted route network for bikers covers 754 kilometres, including seven trails.
Travelling by train If you don't want to travel by car, take the train to the Landeck-Zams stop and get on bus 260 in the direction of Paznaun. The bus journey to Ischgl takes about an hour.
Cable cars The operating times of the lifts in summer: Silvrettabahn, Flimjochbahn, Flimsattelbahn, Alp Trider and Sattelbahn run from 19 June to 13 September 2020, the Twinliner from 19 June to 11 October 2020. Lift prices at www.ischgl.com
Silvretta-Card Guests staying one night or more in Ischgl receive the Silvretta Card. This is linked to various discounts, including free bike transport on the cable cars, free entry to all indoor and outdoor pools, toll-free travel on the Silvretta High Alpine Road and free travel on public buses. Info: www.ischgl.com
Guided tours Silvretta Bike Academy, www.silvretta-bikeacademy.atBike Skull Ischgl, www.bike-skull-ischgl.at
Bike shops and hire There are two repair and bike hire stations directly in Ischgl: Sport Bründl, Dorfstrasse 64, www.bruendl.at Sportalm Salner, Dorfstrasse 52, www.ischgl-rent.com
Accommodation From simple bed and breakfast hotels to four-star hotels - Ischgl offers accommodation in all price categories in summer. Five hotels offer a special biker service including a workshop, washing area and touring service. If you are travelling by camper, you will find the nearest pitch in Galtür at Camping Zeinissee. Information on all accommodation can be found at www.ischgl.com
MTB events The legendary marathon will take place for the 26th time in 2020: Ischgl Ironbike, date: 5-8 August 2020. E-Bike World Championships for elite and everyone with DJ and live band, date: 14-15 August 2020. SAAC Mountain Bike Camp: Certified guides teach everything about riding technique, equipment, safety and trail ethics. Date: 29-30 August 2020, information on all events: www.ischgl.com
The region's premium partner is BH Bikes.