EMTB-Transalp: With the e-bike through Tyrol - from Innsbruck to the Brenner border ridge
Stefan Meiseleder
· 09.02.2023
"So, are we going to ride it now?" I don't even have to lift my head to see how penetratingly Panos is looking at me. But we both know that the trail junction is not an option today. So I continue to stare wordlessly at the map: how do we get from here to Maria Waldrast by a legal route? If not on the trail, then at least with plenty of panoramic views. "Go on, we'll take that one next!" Now I look up, annoyed. Okay, Panos is grinning, his whinge was obviously a joke. But he's basically right. We are standing below the massive, 2400 metre high Kalkkögel. As a local from Innsbruck, you naturally know which turn-off would be the right one to take in order to experience maximum riding fun. But our mission today is a different one.
Every Tyrolean valley has a different political attitude
These are the last beautiful days of autumn. Before we mothball the bikes for the winter, we want to get out of the city. Not bike park balling, as we usually do at the weekend, but to really dive into the high mountains for four days. When I presented the idea to my friends Panos, Blanca and Lauma, they were immediately on board and shouted a few trail names across the table. Descents that we absolutely had to include in the route.
But unfortunately I had to pull the plug on this planning euphoria: "Well, I meant a legal route." Pause. Puzzled looks. We're in Tyrol - is that even possible? As a biker in Innsbruck, you're a long-suffering traveller. The city is surrounded by high mountain peaks. There are more than enough trails for all mountain sports enthusiasts. But only when a path or trail is officially authorised for bikers can it be used legally. However, this is not always the case. The last trail that was built and officially opened for bikers in the Hötting Hills in the summer with city funds was closed again after just one week and ordered to be dismantled.
So the waning enthusiasm of my bike friends about the planned tour is understandable. How do you know which route is really legal? But the much bigger question mark was: will there be any trails at all? I can reassure them. Firstly, almost every Tyrolean valley now has a different political attitude towards mountain biking - the winters with little snow make it possible. And secondly, I have already identified a route on the topographical map. All the officially authorised routes for bikers are marked in green. If this information is still correct, we should experience plenty of panoramic views and even get at least one trail highlight in front of our forks in the Wipptal.
It's a good thing we chose e-MTBs for this tour. October has already sugared up the first peaks and the daylight is just melting away. To make up for the extra warm clothes we need, we arrange luggage transport: a mate shuttles our bags from accommodation to accommodation. On day one, we reach the monastery walls of Maria Waldrast in the afternoon. We hardly remember the hustle and bustle of the city of Innsbruck, which we had to peel ourselves out of this morning.
The lonely panoramic high-altitude trail around the Kalkkögel had already relieved us of this big city stress like a lint roller after a very short time. In relaxed mountain mode, we now look up at the Serles summit, which still shines majestically in the sun far above our accommodation. "It really was a great day!" beams Blanca. But we agree that this day could even have been perfect - if there had been a trail descent on top. A fact that will change tomorrow. I'm already looking forward to seeing the faces of my friends.
Rain - on the stage with the big trail highlight of all stages?
Unfortunately, the next morning starts with a big "fail": it's raining. So much so that I consider cancelling the route for today. Travelling through the high mountains in the rain, fog and cold not only makes little sense, it's also too dangerous. But after the fourth or fifth breakfast sandwich in the monastery restaurant, the sky brightens noticeably and by the time we push our bikes out of the yard, the weather seems to be stable enough for touring again.
So, we rattle down the steep and frosty-cold descent into the Wipptal valley and on the other side of the valley, we are glad for every metre of altitude that warms us up again. But the gravel serpentines to the Pfoner Ochsenalm are never-ending and we reach the highest point at 2163 metres above sea level sweating profusely. But also happy, because: This is where the Sunnseitn Trail starts.
The Sunnseitn Trail is an absolute jewel in the Tyrolean mountains. Like a garland, it clings to the mountain flank at an altitude of 2000 metres and winds its way gently up and down from mountain pasture to mountain pasture. And as befits a high mountain trail, it is also a bit of a bitch. This is where the e-MTB comes to the rescue: with the necessary momentum, it pushes us smoothly over the rough and rocky sections.
"Well, kiss my arse!" I have to interrupt the trail flow for a moment, I'm so stunned by the view that we're in danger of missing out on because of all the riding fun. Over there, in the still hazy air, the Zillertal glacier peaks stand out like ghosts. Almost close enough to touch. We continue along the never-ending super trail above the tree line. At the Seapnalm, there's even a chance to extend the trail.
However, we first have to climb up to the Vögeleralm. Behind this hut, this extra loop winds its way through the mountainside for another kilometre. Much more technical and rough now. This trail is a total of ten kilometres of fun. We pass countless catered huts along the way, and if it hadn't been for Blanca's flat tyre, we would have treated ourselves to dessert on the Klammalm. However, after an excellent roast venison, we are soon pushed out again by the fading daylight.
Day 3: Via Blaser and Padasterjochhaus
The next morning, our route takes another turn to the west, towards Matrei. As we roll out of the Navisertal valley, Panos is euphoric again: he has heard that there is also a permitted trail at the top of the Blaser, the destination of our next ascent. That's right, I've heard that too and have therefore included the trail in our route. However, I'm not sure whether Panos will like it.
But the panorama that the local mountain of the Geschnitztal presents to us two hours later is something that everyone likes: We spot Serles, Habicht and almost all of the sugared Tyrolean summit celebrities in the round. Below, the sun is now illuminating the autumn leaves in all their colours. You just want to lie down in the warm meadow and stretch your legs. But unfortunately an October day leaves us no time for that. At just under 60 kilometres and well over 2000 metres in altitude, this is the longest stage. We have to keep at it so that we reach the stage finish in daylight today.
The promised Blaser Trail doesn't cost us any unnecessary time. We quickly fly through its hairpin bends. Panos is still beaming. Built marble runs are not usually his thing. "Better than nothing! And it wasn't badly built!", he shouts and lets it rip down the steep forest road through the Zwieselmähder. So much so that he almost misses the turn-off to the Padasterjochhaus. We head up into the high alpine again. We hardly see any people. But chamois, marmots and even golden eagles. Later, as we sit in the gondola of the Bergeralmbahn cable car to shorten the ascent by a few metres, Panos is almost a little chastened: "For the panoramic madness, it should be a little less trail-wise."
The Brenner border ridge from the back on an e-bike
Our last stage doesn't skimp on the panorama either. We climb from Obernberg up the Brenner border ridge, and when we reach the old military road at an altitude of over 2000 metres, we are rewarded with another great view. The first Dolomite towers loom to the south, and to the east the Zillertal mountains rise into view. We follow the historic gravel road over the ridge, pass the old military bunkers and - "Hoit, stop!"
Panos has discovered two promising trail descents down to the Italian side. The temptation is great, the discussion long, but you can't ride down there either. So we continue on the military road, where we are surprised by a final, crisp trail towards the Sattelbergalm. As we sit in the escort vehicle home at the Brenner Pass, the discussion about our route starts again. Scenic: sensational. Everyone agrees. In terms of riding technique: there is still more potential. But who knows, maybe more regions with open trails will soon surprise us on this tour.
Tour info: from Innsbruck to the Brenner border ridge
Stage 1: Innsbruck - Maria Waldrast
- Length: 34.4 kilometres
- Uphill: 1996 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 932 metres in depth
Description:
From Innsbruck's old town centre, head south-west, soon along the Inn river with a view of the Bergisel ski jump. A well signposted cycle path continues via Natters to Mutters. Below the bike park cable car, the gravel road climbs up to the mountain station of the Mutterer Alm (1608 m). The Innsbrucker Almenweg then crosses the slope at the foot of the Kalkkögel dolomite rock fortress with magnificent views over the Inntal valley, to the Patscherkofel mountain and into the Wipptal valley. Continue along the Kreiter Almenweg to the Stockeralm (rest stop), then take the narrower forest and meadow path no. 565 down to Telfes in the Stubai Valley. You can already see the Serlesbahn cable car from afar on the opposite slope. Our next ascent is hidden somewhere in the forest. The best way to access these gravel serpentines is via the Kirchbrücke bridge. From the valley station of the cable car, follow the marked forest path for 800 metres up to the Maria Waldrast monastery.
Stage 2: Maria Waldrast - Navis
- Length: 39.9 kilometres
- Uphill: 1761 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1975 metres in depth
Description:
The stage begins with a relatively steep descent on the Zentralalpenweg down to Matrei. There you pass under the Brenner motorway, cross the Sill and turn into a long, tough and sometimes steep gravel climb in the village of Pfons. At the top, at an altitude of 2163 metres, the hairpin bends end at the Pfoner Ochsenalm and you are faced with a real trail gem in Tyrol: the Sunnseitn Trail (S1). A high-altitude trail with great views, it winds its way from alpine pasture to alpine pasture up here at 2000 metres. At the Seapnalm, the gravel road takes over again. But if you take a left here up to the Vögeleralm, you can add a challenging trail extension (S2). Both routes meet again at the Peeralm. The route continues uphill near the tree line for another 250 metres, past the Klammalm (great place to stop for refreshments) and finally on gravel, with trail sections, via the Naviser Hütte in the direction of Navis, until the short ascent to the Eppensteiner Gasthof branches off to the right.
Stage 3: Navis - Obernberg
- Length: 58.3 kilometres
- Uphill: 2062 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 2630 metres in depth
Description:
The longest of the four stages is best started early in the morning so that you can recharge your battery on the way. From Navis, the route turns back down the valley towards Brenner. A quiet side road parallel to the motorway leads to Steinach, where the long forest road climb up to Blaser (2241 m) awaits. It is a good 1000 metres in altitude to the Blaserhütte. You have to leave your bike here if you want to climb to the summit of the local mountain (50 metres in altitude) and not miss the mega view of Serles, Habicht and all the other important peaks in Tyrol. On a well-maintained trail and the steep descent through the Zwieselmähder, you climb back up to the Padasterjochhaus (2232 m), where it's worth stopping for a break for the panoramic views alone. Then follow the forest road down to Trins and then the Geschnitzbach stream to the valley station of the Bergeralm cable car. This saves energy and battery power for 500 metres in altitude before a forest path leads over to Almi's Berghotel accommodation.
Stage 4: Obernberg - Brenner
- Length: 24.3 kilometres
- Uphill: 1017 metres in altitude
- Downhill: 1168 metres in depth
Description:
From Obernberg, the route curves directly into the beautiful Fradertal valley and then heads fairly straight and steeply from the north-west up to the Brenner border ridge. There is even a freshly built uphill trail in the upper section, which makes the last few metres up to the Flachjoch (2124 m) even more fun. With sensational views of the Zillertal Alps and even the Dolomites to the south, you now roll down the Brenner border ridge road. Past its historic military bunkers and - unfortunately - its trail entrances, which are also currently not permitted on the Italian side. Only at the Sattelberg do you reach the rather technical Trail 4 (S2), which leads to the Sattelbergalm. After the obligatory refreshment stop, you descend the remaining 400 metres on a gravel road to Gries. There, a short ascent takes you to Gries railway station, where trains regularly return to Innsbruck.
Arrival, overnight stay, battery charging, return transport
The tour
Four days of zigzagging through the main ridge of the Tyrolean Alps - that's a lot of altitude metres. In total, the route from Innsbruck to the Brenner Pass measures 156.9 kilometres, 6836 metres in altitude and 6705 metres of descent. As the route repeatedly takes you above the 2000 metre mark, you should be in good physical condition despite your e-MTB. In terms of riding technique, the tour should not be underestimated either. Although there are only a few single trails, the forest roads are a little rougher in the high alpine terrain. Tip for the journey: Innsbruck has only a few free car parks, but is easy to reach by train!
Accommodation
The tour can also be extended to more than four days. However, if you do it in summer, you will have more daylight and therefore more time for the stages. Our accommodation for four stages:
Stage 1: Maria Waldrast monastery in Mühlbachl in the Stubai Valley. The imposing building stands picturesquely below the Serles and has also been offering rooms and holiday flats for a few years now. An overnight stay is a wonderful experience, tel. 0043/5273/ 6219, www.mariawaldrast.at
Stage 2: Alpengasthof Eppensteiner in Navis. This rustic inn is conveniently located on the route, also offers four-bed rooms and excellent cuisine. Tel. 0043/5278/6423, www.gasthof-eppensteiner.com
Stage 3: Almiʼs Berghotel in Obernberg. Great food, fantastic sauna and friendly hosts. Tel. 0043/5274/87511, www.almis-berghotel.at
Refreshment stops
The stages include long, sometimes steep climbs and lead through high altitudes. This makes good battery management all the more important. However, the density of mountain huts in the main Tyrolean Alpine ridge is also particularly high. As a result, you pass plenty of refreshment stops along the route, where you can replenish your energy stores and recharge your batteries at the same time.
Return transport
We hired a mate to shuttle our luggage from one accommodation to the next. He also waited for us at the Brenner Pass to drive us back to Innsbruck. Another option is the train. From Gries am Brenner station there are almost 30 connections to Innsbruck every day, the journey takes about 40 minutes. Information (also on taking bikes): www.oebb.at or www.thetrainline.com
Guided tour
Completely organised with guide, accommodation, luggage transport and return transfer, you can book the tour with Guide and Ride. Dates and prices can be found at: www.guideandride.at
Best time to travel/weather
As the tour climbs for four days through the main Alpine ridge, the snow-free time window extends from mid-June to the beginning of October. However, especially in spring, you still have to reckon with old snowfields in the north-facing, shady summit regions. In autumn, you can expect sunny, snow-free trails until well into October, but the days are much shorter and can get very cold from early afternoon.
Caution is also advised during thunderstorms. Some sections are quite exposed at an altitude of over 2000 metres and are therefore at risk of lightning strikes. On such days, it is better to start early in the morning and arrive at your accommodation around 4 pm - before the first lightning flashes through the sky.
