Cycling tours in East Tyrol: Cycle to the sun in a starry sky - 4 tour tips around Lienz
Thomas Widerin
· 14.09.2025
As I push my bike off the train at the station in Lienz, the sun is shining from the sky and it is pleasantly warm. I look up at the almost cloudless sky and take several deep breaths. It warms my heart and I look forward to my cycling excursions here in the region around Lienz, the "Gateway to the South!" Lienz and the surrounding area I'm sitting on the main square in Lienz, my bike leaning against a wall, right opposite the Liebburg castle. Here in the centre of the East Tyrolean capital with its 12,000 inhabitants, it feels almost Mediterranean. Although the cosy cafés, the nicely furnished souvenir shops and the lovely-looking houses are surrounded by dense forests and many high mountains, a touch of the south pervades the alleyways. The locals are proud of Lienz and the valley floor. "In the middle of the mountains and yet far to the south". Every year, thousands of tourists enjoy their stay in a region where people try to leave the hustle and bustle of everyday life behind. Where much has been preserved in its original state and where the terms "regionality" and "authenticity" are lived. There is a lot to see and experience. Especially when it comes to cycling, not only the region around Lienz, but the whole of Austria has a lot to offer. East TyrolThe infrastructure has been heavily upgraded. Cycle tourism is flourishing. Whether racing cyclists, gravel bikers or downhillers, with or without battery support. Families in particular enjoy cycling through a variety of landscapes. Over the next few days, I want to explore the region on four cycle routes.
Peaks and glacial river: Iseltal cycle path
I initially opt for a leisurely loop. 29 kilometres, mostly flat or only imperceptibly uphill, from Lienz to Matrei, near the Felbertauern tunnel. The Iseltal cycle path is particularly popular with families, as it offers a variety of swimming and play opportunities for children. From Lienz, via Ainet and Schlaiten to St. Johann im Walde, I have a beautifully laid out cycle path at my disposal. It winds gently through a landscape with many birch trees, dandelions with their typical yellow flower heads bloom in the meadows. Always at my side: the Isel, a small tributary of the Drau, which has its source in the Umbalkees, a glacier in the Venediger group of the Hohe Tauern. Its shimmering blue-green glacier water is clear and clean. Sun-seekers enjoy the first warm sunny days on the many pebble and sandy beaches. No matter which direction I look, I can see countless mountain peaks of the Tauern, Venediger and Glockner groups everywhere. Many of them still covered in snow. In St. Johann, I cross the Isel and change to a small municipal road with little traffic. The path is well signposted. Past nicely laid out rest and relaxation areas, information boards about the Hohe Tauern National Park and the Isel, I continue into the valley. The cows in the pastures are obviously used to cyclists, as they don't give me a second glance. The road starts in Huben and leads to Kals at the foot of the Großglockner, Austria's highest mountain at 3,798 metres. But I cycle straight northwards, passing through several wooded areas and getting a little further away from the valley floor. A few short but crisp climbs further on, not only is the view of the Isel flowing lower down fantastic, but also of several thundering waterfalls that feed the glacial river. The market town of Matrei in East Tyrol, my destination for today's stage, is the second largest municipality in Tyrol in terms of area and lies within the Hohe Tauern National Park. I sit down in the garden of a café and savour a delicious cappuccino. Although I grew up in the Tyrolean mountains, I am impressed by the many imposing peaks of the Glockner group around me.
From Lienz to Dobbiaco: Drau cycle path
The Drau Cycle Path is on the programme today and I want to cycle from Lienz to San Candido as early as possible. The sun is shining and I'm sure that this section of the famous long-distance cycle path will be overrun, or rather "over-cycled", by families later on. My decision to start early proves to be the right one: the cycle path is all mine. I cycle past the Galitzenklamm gorge, with its waterfalls and via ferratas, into the Pustertal valley. The entire route to San Candido leads along a very well signposted cycle path through beautiful countryside. As far as Mittewald, shady sections of forest alternate with open meadows. Here too, the lush meadows are coloured yellow by dandelions, flower-decorated wayside crosses, so-called "Marterln", line the path and lovingly designed rest areas made of large stone slabs invite you to take a short break. Many of them are located directly on the banks of the Drau or at artificially created small ponds and side arms. After Mittewald, I emerge from the forest and a fabulous mountain panorama opens up before me. Several times I cross the Drau, which has its source in the Italian region of South Tyrol and flows towards me, on bridges built especially for cyclists. Like the Isel, it has particularly clean water and glistens in the sun. A local cyclist joins me during a break and tells me in detail about the nature conservation efforts that are so important for this region. As I cycle on, more and more families come towards me. This is because I'm cycling in the direction of South Tyrol and the entire route is about 600 metres uphill in this direction. It's never steep, but there are flat sections and slight climbs. Most people cycle in the opposite direction - quickly downhill! I pass many small churches on wonderful hillside sites, individual houses with colourful gardens and the imposing Heinfels hilltop castle near Sillian. Cycling to my destination in San Candido is pure pleasure and I realise why this beautiful cycle path is so popular with families. At the end of the route in San Candido, I join the families in the garden of a pizzeria and savour my pasta.
From village to village: Lienzer Talboden cycle path
Today I start in the centre of Lienz, right in front of the town's landmark. The Liebburg is a baroque castle from the 16th century and today, alongside Bruck Castle, one of the most photographed buildings in Lienz. I'm looking forward to the next cycle tour, as it takes me away from the tourist hustle and bustle, mostly above the Dolomite town. From Lienz, I initially follow the Iseltal cycle path, which I already know, in the opposite direction to the river. But after just a few kilometres, my legs have to work hard up to Oberlienz. The climb is long and demanding. But I am rewarded with an indescribably beautiful view of the district town and the golden peaks of the Lienz Dolomites glowing in the morning sun. From now on, the fully signposted cycle path runs slightly above the Dolomite town, past the historic Tammerburg castle, always heading east. I have the feeling that time has stood still in the small villages of Gaimberg, Nussdorf and Stribach. I don't recognise any hustle and bustle anywhere, modern new buildings and old farmhouses fit perfectly into the landscape. They look spruced up, everything is clean and even the many hedges are trimmed to perfection. Because it is constantly uphill and downhill, cycling is much more challenging than along the tourist cycle paths in the valley.
Just before Dölsach lies the Roman town of Aguntum. Aguntum was the only Tyrolean Roman town to be built by Emperor Claudius 2,000 years ago. The archaeological site was once the trading centre of the region. Since the 16th century, Roman artefacts have been repeatedly unearthed here, which are now open to the public in a newly built museum. I walk along small paths through "pure history". Around Dölsach, on the sunny side of the Lienz valley floor, you can see that the local farmers tend their fields, slopes and gardens with particular love and dedication. Many of the fruit growers still uphold the tradition of distilling schnapps. Ingredients? Only organic fruit from regional cultivation, of course. My thighs can recover on the way down to the valley floor. The rest of the cycle path towards Nickelsdorf and Lavant, below the bold Hochstadeln north face with its impressive waterfalls, is flat again. Rafting boats are lined up on the Drau like pearls on a string and, in contrast to the hectic activity on the Dolomite golf course, it is quiet and peaceful at the nice resting places around the Cossack cemetery. A detour to the romantic Lake Tristach is not only a "must" on hot summer days. It is about 10 minutes from the cycle path, just above Tristach, at the foot of the Lienz Dolomites. I'm alone here today and enjoy the peace and quiet. After a half-hour break, I return to the district capital. Today is the weekly town market, which I really want to visit. "The best from the region" is the motto of this market. I love regional products, because they show my love of nature and my homeland. I certainly won't miss out on one or two samples.
Beautiful distant view: Schlossberg circuit
In the west of Lienz, the time-honoured Bruck Castle lies between groups of shady trees. Built at the beginning of the 13th century, it now houses a museum and is a popular destination for tourists from all over the world. At the car park below the imposing stone walls, I take another look at my planned route on a cycle map and realise that today is going to be a tough one. Immediately after the start, I turn right into the dense forest after a short tarmac section. The paved forest path is wide and easy to cycle on, but it climbs steeply. After a short time, I start to sweat. Several e-bikers overtake me with a smile and look a little pityingly at my bike without battery support. The forest opens up again and again for a short section and I can see down into the Iseltal valley. Without a flat section, the combined gravel and forest road winds its way further and further upwards. I take a short break on the sunny terrace of the Sternalm. My bike is the only one up here that doesn't have a "motor". Up to the highest point of the circular tour, there are a good 800 metres of ascent and at least an hour's ride. The route alternates between alpine pastures, forests, crossings of slopes and cleared areas for controlled reforestation. The higher I climb, the more often I have a fascinating view of the valley. Places like this are just right for me, because I can stop and take a deep breath. Lienz lies deep below and the distant view along the valley floor towards Carinthia is fantastic. The Lienz Dolomites are also close enough to touch. A special jewel of this region. It's not just my thighs that are happy when I reach the highest point. Once again I meet e-bikers who, unlike me, are not out of breath. Before descending towards Leisach, I discuss the usefulness of a helmet with two cyclists. Riding without a helmet is absolutely out of the question for me. I even wore a helmet on the sections through the desert on my last trip round the world. I now cycle slowly down the steep ascent again. Today's Schlossberg circuit has cost me a lot of grains, but has also rewarded me with wonderful views. To replenish my energy stores, I treat myself to a "Tiroler Brettljause" snack in the garden of my accommodation.
4 star tours around Lienz
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Iseltal cycle path (Lienz - Matrei, one way)
29 km, 370 m elevation gain, approx. 2 hours, 70% paved, 30% unpaved, signposted Iseltal cycle path R22 Special feature: Always leads along the Isel, suitable for families
Drau cycle path (Lienz - San Candido, one way)
43 km, approx. 570 m elevation gain, approx. 3 hours, 80% paved, 20% unpaved, signposted Drau cycle path R4 Special feature: Always runs along the Drava, is a stage of the multi-award-winning Drava long-distance cycle route Toblach-Varazdin (Croatia) with a total length of 510 km
Lienz valley floor (Lienz - Lienz, round tour)
39 km, approx. 280 m elevation gain, approx. 3 hours, 70% paved, 30% unpaved, signposted cycle path 35 Special feature: Runs through many small villages in the region around Lienz
Lienzer Schlossbergrunde (Lienz - Lienz, round tour)
16 km, 840 m elevation gain, approx. 2 hours, mostly unpaved, signposting 103 Special feature: Challenging "mountain tour"
The following applies to all tours: very good signposting, excellent road conditions (mostly cycle paths or low-traffic side roads), suitable for families, also e-bike (Attention: Schlossbergrunde good skills required, very demanding), in the valley combination with train or bus possible.
Information and tips on the star tours around Lienz in East Tyrol
Arrival
Car: From all directions, route via www.google.com/maps, some roads subject to tolls, traffic, toll vignette information via www.oeamtc.at/verkehrsserviceInteractive map of charging stations for electric cars at https://maps.osttirol.com/
Railway: Long-distance and regional trains, express train station, timetables and reservations at www.shop.oebbtickets.at. Tip: On inter-regional trains, it is essential to reserve bike transport in advance
Overnight stays
Very extensive range of hotels (all price categories, including family hotels), flats, holiday homes, guesthouses, centrally located or quiet in the vicinity of Lienz. www.osttirol.com/urlaub-buchen
Tip: Farm holidays
MYBIKE recommendation: "Dolomitenhof" Tristach, very friendly staff, excellent food and wellness, cyclist-friendly, lockable bike cellar, sun terrace, located directly on the cycle path www.dolomitenhof-tristach.at
Food and drink
Choice from award-winning restaurants with culinary delights at the highest level to small, cosy cafés, including delivery services. Many establishments offer organic products and regional fare.
Tip: Hospitality of a "Tyrolean inn culture" (hospitality with original culture and special Tyrolean food), www.osttirol.com/entdecken-und-erleben/kulinarik/
Worth seeing
- City centre of Lienz
- Bruck Castle with museum
- St Andrä parish church
- Franciscan monastery
- Liebburg Castle
- rom. Aguntum excavations
- Heinfels hilltop castle (towers, courtyards and ruins can be explored on your own as part of the panoramic tour)
- Galitzenklamm water adventure park (water adventure park, 6 via ferratas)
- Hochstein adventure mountain (summer toboggan run, climbing park, adventure golf, petting zoo)
- Zettersfeld mountain railways (hiking opportunities, family park)
- Special events all year round, www.osttirol.com/entdecken-und-erleben/
Cycling infrastructure
The entire area around Lienz is particularly "cyclist-friendly". Excellent cycle paths (also within the town), all types of cycling possible, including downhill (Bikepark Lienz am Hochstein), many places to stop for refreshments along the routes on offer, bike shops in Lienz, combination with train or bus possible. Further information: www.radfahren.osttirol.com
Maps and important information
TVB Osttirol, 9900 Lienz, Mühlgasse 11, +43(0)50212 212, info@osttirol.com, www.osttirol.com,
Cycling and hiking maps, town and city maps, various brochures and magazines available from TVB
Special tips: Osttirol CARD "1 card - 23 excursion destinations", 7-day card or 3-in-7-day card, combines excursion and adventure destinations on one key card, validity: end of June - mid-September, free mobility with the guest card: free use of all buses in Osttirol with the guest card (all guests receive with their registration with the landlord)
