Circumnavigation of the Großvenediger: Father and daughter on a 3-day bike tour

The Großvenediger is finally here to stay. Mountaineers reverently refer to the 3657 metre high glacier peak in the Hohe Tauern as the "majesty of the world". But I don't want an audience at the summit, I want to experience the trail circuit around it. A dream that, for some inexplicable reason, I have yet to fulfil. And this August, the project was in danger of failing again because none of my mates had time. What to do? Ask Magdalena. My daughter is now seventeen and a half, super fit on the climbs and she's already beating me downhill anyway. Nevertheless, there are three high passes: Krimmler Tauern, Ochsenlenke and Felbertauern. Oh, she can do it. But she shouldn't get bored. That's why I streamline the four-day tour into three stages and plan a bus transfer for the long valley rollers. The weather could be more problematic. Typical afternoon thunderstorms are forecast for the next few days. I'm struggling. Magdalena, on the other hand, has no sense of danger. Youth equals immortality. It's just as well she has her private guide with her.

Magdalena: Haribos are the devil's stuff! You're a mobile phone addict! Take the door handle in your hand! Dad is annoying. But he does his best. He leaves the courtyard light on so that I hit the right front door at half past one. And he got me into sport. Telemark skiing in winter, mountain biking in summer. I've been cycling for as long as I can remember. When I was eleven, he signed me up for a freeride camp with a rigid bike. All the other kids had fullys. Dad like this: "You learn to ride a bike without suspension. That didn't do me any harm 30 years ago either." But since last summer, I finally have a fully too. And I love it! When he asked me if I wanted to ride round a mountain like this with him, I didn't have to think twice: Yes, of course!

Andreas: The child has been turning my life inside out since 1 January 2007. She's a living brake pad and a laughing money burner. She can turn her old man from stoic to choleric at the flick of a wrist. But that's the great thing about being a father: Until she comes of age in six months' time, I call the shots: no drugs, home before midnight, school instead of a café ... And yet: if I say "white", she replies with "black". So it's all the more refreshing that we both agree on at least one thing: Sport is a must! Preferably on two fat tyres. When she was ten, she had to go on the Tremalzo, a year later to the freeride camp in Hindelang, three years later to the first Transalp. And now she is "allowed" to start the circumnavigation of the Großvenediger with me at eight in the morning. You can't choose your father.

Her rucksack is so full that the zip is almost bursting. Fathers don't need to know what unnecessary things daughters have with them. In the cold, pitch-black tunnel up to the Krimml waterfalls, I can hear her shivering quietly. An hour later we arrive at the Krimmler Tauernhaus. Late breakfast in the sun! "Is it still time?" How often have I heard this question in the last seventeen years? Another 1000 metres in altitude, I say. It's amazing how quickly healthy skin colour can fade.

Magdalena: Another 1000 metres of altitude? Shit! But after the pass it's really only down to the hotel? Dad nods. That'll be fine. The apple strudel I just ate is really sinking into my legs now. Phew! Finding a rhythm is important now. And distraction. There are no clouds in the sky today, you can hear a few birds whistling and there: a butterfly is following me. After an hour we reach a mountain pasture. There are plenty of bottles in the fountain. I fish myself out an Almdudler. "We have to push from here," says Dad and puts a few coins in the box. How does he always know that beforehand? I like pushing. Finally a different movement. At some point I can see the top of the pass. And at some point we reach the top. I've never had a sense of time. And no memory for names either. "Krimmler Tauern" is written on the sign. 2663 metres. Dad is in good spirits. "I'd push for the first few metres downhill," he says. I ride.

Andreas: Day two! Ochsenlenke. One of the best bike passes in the Alps. And virtually unknown. It was on my to-do list for a long time, but I never ticked it off. But today it's my turn. Together with my daughter! It could hardly be more beautiful. But the hairpin bends - they don't stop. Somewhere between Prettau and Hasentalalm I stop counting them. What counts is the quality time with Magdalena. We've also been lucky with the weather so far. But it's supposed to rain this afternoon. We should avoid thunderstorms at all costs in this remote area between the Hohe Tauern and the Riesenferner group. So I imperceptibly press on the accelerator. A little past the Hasentalalm, it's time to push again!

Magdalena had blistered her heels yesterday up to the Krimmler Tauern. I don't hear her grumbling or complaining - she grits her teeth. But then: surprise! After a few minutes of walking, Madame quickly takes off her bike shoes and hikes up the soft meadow path to the top of the pass in white (soon to be brown) socks. I've never experienced that in 30 years of mountain biking. But hey! Why not actually? I wonder if she has spare socks with her. Her rucksack is full enough.

Magdalena: What's dad's new favourite pass called again? Oh, never mind. It's fun anyway. If only it weren't for the blisters on my feet. But the grass path is soft - I just take my shoes off! Dad looks funny, but then grins. And I can confirm it: It's like walking on air! (Well, almost). At the top of the pass, I feel like we're in heaven somehow. Only my socks - wow - mum will never get them clean again. But: tata! Of course, I have spare socks with me just in case. The descent is even better than yesterday. There are no stone slabs this time, it's flowing today!

Oh, we rejoiced too soon. We still have to cross a second pass to get to our accommodation! Dad didn't tell us about that, did he? The ascent is long. Not steep and supposedly not long. But I don't like it any more. Eventually we finally reach the top. Dad is so happy this time that he asks a hiker to take a photo of us. Immediately afterwards, he pushes for the descent. Probably rightly so, because dark clouds are gathering very quickly.

Maybe I should have booked the accommodation in advance. If we get really wet on the descent from Klammljoch and there's no accommodation down in Defereggental, we'll really have a problem. - Andreas

But fate has it in store for us: just as it really starts to pour, the Zollwirt appears in front of us. I rush into the inn and when I ask for a room, being very optimistic, there is actually still one free. There's a hot shower, good food and: hooray - wifi again at last! So I can relax unobserved from my afternoon mental stress. Lying in bed, Magdalena surprisingly wants to know the plan for tomorrow. I pull out my mobile phone and open the map: we roll 25 kilometres to Huben in the Tauern Valley and take the bus to the Matreier Tauernhaus. From there, it's less than 500 metres up to the "Venedigerblick". Then another 500 metres up to the Felbertauern and up here we see it for the very first time, "our" Großvenediger... But she has already fallen asleep.

Magdalena: Once Dad starts talking about mountains, he never stops. Now he's talking about Monte Rosa, which he wants to hike round with me next summer. Sure, why not, sounds nice. But then I'll definitely have to pack differently. I really could have done without the Birkenstocks. I didn't need the jeans with my new leopard belt either. It's a good thing Dad hasn't discovered them yet... But the AirPods and power bank will definitely have to come back with me. When he's in a good mood, Dad sometimes talks so much rubbish. Especially when he's pushing. Oh, and the dirty socks... Oh, I'll just throw them away tomorrow.

Info on the 3 stages

The tour around the Großvenediger can be extended to a three-day tour with a bus transfer. The tour covers a total of 99.5 kilometres, 4129 metres in altitude and 30 percent trail.

Stage 1: Krimml - Prettau

• Length: 33.7 kilometres
• Uphill: 1603 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1191 metres in depth
• Trail share: 33 per cent
• Difficulty: S2-S3

Starting point: Krimml in the Salzburger Land region. The small village lies at an altitude of 1067 metres below the Gerlos Pass.

The stage: From the start in Krimml, follow the main road for a short while before struggling up the wide high valley within sight and sound of the Krimml waterfalls. Past the Krimml Tauernhaus (1631 m), the route continues on a track into the head of the valley to the Windbachalm (1882 m). This is where the long and difficult pushing section to the pass at the Krimmler Tauern (2633 m) begins. The descent begins with an unpleasant slab track and an infinite number of cross-country stumbling blocks. From the Obere Tauernalm (2018 m), the toughest part of the descent is behind you. But the final downhill to the Untere Tauernalm (1824 m) is by no means a walk in the park. Afterwards, you roll down the Ahrntal valley on tarmac to Kasern or Prettau.

Key points: Of all the main ridge passes in the Hohe Tauern, the Krimml Tauern is the most conquerable. After the miserably long ascent through the Krimmler Achental valley, you have to push 750 metres in altitude (two hours) from the Windbachalm. Downhill, the countless stone slabs require maximum concentration. And good forearms.

Retreat: The Krimmler Tauernhaus (1631 m, krimmler-tauernhaus.at) is the only option between Krimml and Krimmler Tauern. The next stop is only possible again at the Obere Tauernalm (2018 m).

Overnight stay: After the day-long transition from Oberpinzgau to the South Tyrolean Ahrntal, you long for good accommodation as soon as possible. The first of these can be found in Kasern, e.g. the Berghotel Kason (kasern.com) and in Prettau, for example, the Berggasthof Stern (casere-stern.it) or the Weiherhof (weiherhof.com). We stayed at the lovely Pension Anna in Neuhausergasse 47A in Prettau (Tel. 0039/0474/654336).

Stage 2: Prettau - Zollwirt

• Length: 37.2 kilometres
• Uphill: 1507 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1575 metres in depth
• Trail share: 22 per cent
• Difficulty: S1-S2

The stage: From Prettau (1467 m), roll three kilometres out of the valley, bypass the road tunnel on the right and keep left uphill towards Hofer. From the farm, the route continues on gravel into the Hasental valley. The ascent is steep and full of hairpin bends. Shortly after the Hasentalalm (2165 m), the pushing section to the Ochsenlenke (2585 m), which is already visible, begins. An old military track winds its way eastwards through the mountain meadows and then heads south up to the pass. It takes an hour to push a bike. With an e-MTB, every one of the 400 metres in altitude is rideable - a dream! From the lonely pass summit, a flowing trail leads down into the Knuttental valley. At an altitude of around 2030 metres, the trail ends at a road. This leads to the Klammljoch (2288 m). From there it's downhill - first into the Arvental valley and then into the Defereggen valley.

Key points: The Ochsenlenke is one of the most beautiful bike passes in the Alps! But it doesn't make it easy for the aspirant. 1200 metres in altitude sounds manageable, but the first 800 metres are steep and tough. The push section from the Hasentalalm to the Ochsenlenke leads along a pleasant grassy path, the downhill from the pass is wonderfully flowing.

Attention: If you're travelling with an e-MTB, you need good battery management, because there's no power socket on the road. So it's better to have a second battery with you!

Retreat: There is not a single refreshment stop until you reach the Arvental valley. It is better to stock up on a packed lunch at your accommodation in Prettau. In the Arvental valley you can stop at the Jagdhausalm (jagdhausalm.com) Satisfy hunger and thirst.

Overnight stay: The East Tyrolean Defereggen Valley is very well developed for tourism. On osttirol.com/defereggental there's a large selection of accommodation. We stayed at the Zollwirt in St. Jakob (zollwirt.at). It's the first inn when you arrive in Defereggen valley from Klammljoch.

Stage 3: St. Jakob - Krimml

• Length: 28.7 kilometres
• Uphill: 1019 metres in altitude
• Downhill: 1740 metres in depth
• Trail share: 34 per cent
• Difficulty: S3-S4

The stage: Early in the morning, you cycle 25 kilometres through the Defereggen Valley to Huben. Here you take the public bus (Info: vvt.at) to the Matreier Tauernhaus (1512 m). From there, a new track (not yet shown on all maps) leads to the "Venedigerblick" (1982 m). The track turns to the north-east and ends at a turning point (approx. 2360 m). From here you carry your bike steeply and unpleasantly to the St. Pöltner Hütte (2841 m) at the Tauernkreuz. Descend to Hintersee on trail no. 917, from here a tarmac road leads to the Felbertauernstraße B 108 and you follow this to Mittersill. Caution: lots of traffic and tunnels - light!

Key points: The last 80 metres to the St. Pöltner Hütte are particularly unpleasant for e-mountain bikers. But the spook is quickly over. The descent on trail 917 is very demanding (mostly S3, in places even S4). Never take trail 917A! At an altitude of approx. 2000 metres, you can alternatively cross over to Brentling and descend to Hintersee on the mountain road.

Retreat: Both in Defereggen Valley and in Matreier Tauern Valley, you can easily hike from one snack stop to the next. The most rewarding are the Matreier Tauernhaus (matreier-tauernhaus.com) and the St. Pöltner Hütte, directly at the top of the Felbertauern pass (alpenverein.at/stpoeltnerhuette).

What you need to know about the tour

Alpine experience, safe riding technique and tenacity for three long climbs are essential on the tour around the Großvenediger. Here are the most useful addresses and tips for the route:

Tour character

Alongside the Großglockner, the 3657 metre high Großvenediger is THE sole ruler of the Hohe Tauern National Park. If you want to circumnavigate the mighty glacier mountain, you have to be prepared for a three-day alpine adventure. The highlights are three challenging passes (Krimmler Tauern on day one, Ochsenlenke on day two and Felbertauern on day three). Each of the crossings requires longer pushing passages uphill as well as solid technical riding skills downhill. As a reward, fantastic valleys, fascinating passes, crisp descents await you - and in the evening, cosy accommodation in the original South and East Tyrolean villages.

Parking at the starting point

The starting and finishing point is Krimml in Oberpinzgau in Salzburger Land. You can park in the free car park in the centre of Krimml opposite Intersport Patterer.

Best touring time

The high passes Krimmler Tauern (2633 m), Ochsenlenke (2585 m) and Felbertauern (2481 m) require snow-free conditions, even on the north side. So it's best not to start before July. In August, the risk of heat storms is at its highest and you may have problems finding accommodation. With stable weather, clear air and less hiking traffic, September is the perfect month for this alpine circular tour.

Bike shops on the road

The selection is very sparse. After Intersport Patterer right at the start in Krimml, there is only a bike shop again on day three in Matrei with Sport 2000. If you have a technical problem on day two, you have to ride down into the Ahrntal valley to Steinhaus (Hofer ski hire) or Luttach (ENI bike hire).

Bus shuttle

To complete the tour in three days, you have to be ultra-fit - or, like us, take the bus on day three. We used it from Huben in the Matreier Valley up to the Matreier Tauernhaus and at the end for the last 30 kilometres from Mittersill back to Krimml (station at the train station). Unfortunately, the latter does not transport bikes. So our tip: one of you takes the bus to Krimml and picks up the car, the rest of you look after the bikes. Info: vvt.at and salzburg-verkehr.at.