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It’s quite astonishing, really. We’ve finally learnt to walk upright, to use our hands, to make tools, we’ve conquered the world – and then this: not even seven million years later, we’re back on our knees on the ground, trying to adjust a bike derailleur so it doesn’t rattle. Holding up the rear tyre with one hand and turning the crank with the other, we despair at the task of transforming the annoying clatter-clatter-clatter of the chain into a gentle purr. And yet we invented the solution ages ago: a third arm to lend a helping hand. Clamped into the bike stand, the bike hangs right in front of our noses. In a back-friendly position, we have a perfect view of the adjustment screws and guide rollers and can concentrate on what matters most – the millimetre-precise distance between the outer links of the chain and the next sprocket.
The good news is that a good assembly stand doesn’t even have to be expensive – and the most expensive model isn’t necessarily the best. Among the eight models tested, DIY enthusiasts can find a reliable helper for as little as 130 euros. Whilst professional mechanics usually prefer models that are firmly anchored to the floor, the foldable version is a better option for amateurs. It can be stowed away to save space and fits easily in the boot for a holiday or a race weekend.
Three widely spaced legs provide significantly more stability than a ‘two-legged’ stand, as they are better able to compensate for uneven surfaces. The working height can be adjusted on all models. However, this is only possible if the tubes slide smoothly into one another, even when the bike is already clamped in place. Incidentally, when it comes to the clamp, strength is less of a factor: all work stands grip the tubes firmly enough. Pure screw-type clamps can only be tightened bit by bit, whilst you have to wedge the bike between the clamping jaws with one hand. But what sort of evolution would it be if we hadn’t found a solution for this too: adjustable knee levers or quick-release mechanisms, as found on the Feedback or Super B, make it easier to secure the bike and, so to speak, distinguish the ‘Neanderthal’ from the ‘Homo sapiens’ of bike stands.
This assembly stand is also available in virtually identical designs from brands such as BBB and Procraft. The main drawback of these models is the arm’s lack of torsional rigidity and the wobbly clamp, which opens too narrowly. Its stability is also not ideal. A tool tray and carry bag are available as accessories from Contec. For the occasional DIYer, this workbench is definitely worth recommending, especially if you compare the widely varying prices online before making a purchase.
According to our mechanics, the Pro Elite workstand is the best on the market. The robust clamp allows it to be adjusted to different tube diameters in a flash and reopened at the touch of a button. Large adjustment wheels and smooth-action quick-release levers make it a pleasure to use. Thanks to its tripod design, the Pro Elite remains stable even off-road. It folds down to a very compact size in just a few simple steps. High-quality materials guarantee a long service life.
Thanks to its hexagonal tubular frame and wide-spreading feet, the PRS-25 stands as solid as a rock. The working height and clamping width are generously adjustable. The toggle lever opens the clamping jaws wide, but it is a little small and a bit stiff to operate. The clamping head must be unscrewed for transport, and even then the storage dimensions are still quite substantial. For the asking price, we would have expected a little less plastic. A tool tray, paper towel holder and carry bag are available as optional extras.
The solid Pedro’s looks as if it were built to last a lifetime. The materials are consistently of very high quality and robust, and the stand is quite stable thanks to its widely splayed feet. A unique feature: the bike is clamped into place bit by bit using a comfortable pistol grip. However, this method is slightly slower and less precise than traditional clamps. The arm isn’t quite horizontal, so the bike hangs at an angle in the stand. The heavy Pedro’s folds away easily and then fits neatly into a sturdy carry bag.
The Super B stands out with its sturdy metal clamping head. It opens wide and, thanks to a large lever, can be securely closed and finely adjusted using a knurled screw. Less impressive are the plastic arm and the coarse angle adjustment. The working height can also only be adjusted within a narrow range. Due to the almost vertical upright tube and the narrow, short feet, the Super B is rather wobbly. The tool tray is positioned quite low down for taller fitters.
Thanks to its large, sturdy quick-release clamps and high-quality materials, this Topeak classic is quick to set up and stands very securely on its wide-spreading tripod legs with a solid rubber coating. The arm folds down easily, but it warps noticeably under load. The slightly angular clamp closes very slowly and often feels a bit stiff. The Pro version comes with an integrated, accurate scale. If you want to save 60 euros, go for the Elite version with a small parts compartment. A carry bag is included in the set.
When it comes to materials, Unior leaves nothing to chance; plastic is only used on the large, easy-to-operate toggle lever. Quick-release mechanisms, tubes, arms and connectors – durability is the priority here. The sturdy clamp adjusts to the tube diameter via a spring. Unfortunately, its clamping force is a little low; under load, the clamping jaws are pushed slightly apart. The clamping range is very limited. Due to its short feet, the Unior is a little wobbly, and the arm cannot be folded down.
Strictly speaking, the S 1300 does exactly what it’s supposed to: secure the bike at working height. But even the Ikea-style assembly isn’t much fun. The cast aluminium and plastic parts feel rather cheap. Two foot plugs snapped during assembly. The angular quick-release clamps struggle to grip the tubes securely. The plastic toggle lever digs into the palms of your hands. The S 1300 stands securely on flat surfaces, but is rather wobbly off-road. It’s fine for the odd job, but anyone who does a lot of mechanical work is unlikely to be happy with the S 1300.

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