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How to shorten the carbon handlebars on a mountain bike

Stefan Frey

 · 21.02.2019

How to shorten the carbon handlebars on a mountain bikePhoto: Robert Niedring
How to shorten the carbon handlebars on a mountain bike
The myth: Carbon handlebars can simply be cut off - just like aluminium handlebars! True or not true? Expert Florian Ohnesorg clarifies...


The problem

Provided the quality and workmanship are right, carbon parts outperform aluminium components in terms of weight and durability. The big disadvantage: the carbon fibre parts, which are almost exclusively handmade, are expensive and sensitive to misuse. So what should you do if the elegant carbon handlebars are a few centimetres too wide or the seat post is simply too long? Since carbon components, unlike metal parts, are made of fine carbon fibres, care must be taken when shortening them. Who wants their handlebars to fray like a bouquet of flowers?

There are therefore two basic rules for handling the carbon component as gently as possible:


1. hands off the pipe cutter: What works wonderfully for metal pipes is absolutely unsuitable for carbon fibre and damages the component.


2. if you do not have a special carbon saw blade, should only use a fine-toothed metal saw. A coarse wood saw would tear the carbon fibres too much and fray the cut edges. If you want to be on the safe side, you should buy a special carbon fibre saw blade. This very finely toothed saw blade is available for around 10 euros and enables particularly clean cutting edges.


ATTENTION: As the finest dust is produced when sawing carbon fibre, it is essential to wear a respirator and disposable gloves to protect against carbon fibre splinters.

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HOW DO YOU SHORTEN CARBON HANDLEBARS?

1. mask off the cut surface: Before I start, I mask off the cut surface with masking tape (other adhesive tape also works). This reduces fraying and ensures a nice cut edge. As fine carbon splinters are not harmless and can penetrate the skin, gloves are recommended for the next steps. Carbon splinters are difficult to remove from the skin without leaving any residue.Photo: Robert Niedring1. mask off the cut surface: Before I start, I mask off the cut surface with masking tape (other adhesive tape also works). This reduces fraying and ensures a nice cut edge. As fine carbon splinters are not harmless and can penetrate the skin, gloves are recommended for the next steps. Carbon splinters are difficult to remove from the skin without leaving any residue.2. sawing and sanding: A hacksaw with a metal or, better still, carbon saw blade is the first choice. When sawing, work with little pressure and a cutting guide. If necessary, an old stem can also be used as a guide. ATTENTION: The dust is extremely unhealthy and should therefore not be inhaled under any circumstances! I bind the dust with a little water so that it can be wiped away more easily. It is best to wear a fine dust mask. I then carefully deburr the cut edge with fine-grained sandpaper.Photo: Robert Niedring2. sawing and sanding: A hacksaw with a metal or, better still, carbon saw blade is the first choice. When sawing, work with little pressure and a cutting guide. If necessary, an old stem can also be used as a guide. ATTENTION: The dust is extremely unhealthy and should therefore not be inhaled under any circumstances! I bind the dust with a little water so that it can be wiped away more easily. It is best to wear a fine dust mask. I then carefully deburr the cut edge with fine-grained sandpaper.3. seal the cut edges: As a protective layer, I seal the cut edge with superglue after deburring. Everyone has this at home and it can be applied precisely. This protects the cut edge from moisture and unwanted detachment. A little spray paint will also do the trick, but epoxy resin would of course also be ideal.Photo: Robert Niedring3. seal the cut edges: As a protective layer, I seal the cut edge with superglue after deburring. Everyone has this at home and it can be applied precisely. This protects the cut edge from moisture and unwanted detachment. A little spray paint will also do the trick, but epoxy resin would of course also be ideal.Wrenching expert Florian Ohnesorg: The two-wheeler mechatronics technician has already been European Wrenching Champion and owns a bike shop in Ingenried near Schongau. There is hardly a bike problem that he cannot solve. Florian can tell how many kilometres the bike has covered just by smelling the fork oil.Photo: Robert NiedringWrenching expert Florian Ohnesorg: The two-wheeler mechatronics technician has already been European Wrenching Champion and owns a bike shop in Ingenried near Schongau. There is hardly a bike problem that he cannot solve. Florian can tell how many kilometres the bike has covered just by smelling the fork oil.


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Stefan Frey

Stefan Frey is from Lower Bavaria and loves the mossy, loamy trails of the Bavarian Forest as much as the rugged rock of the Dolomites. For technical descents, he is prepared to tackle almost any ascent - under his own steam. As an accessories specialist, he is the first port of call for questions about equipment and add-on parts, while as head of copywriting he sweeps the language crumbs from the pages of the BIKE print editions.

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