Timo Dillenberger
· 12.03.2024
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Few things annoy us as much as being robbed - especially when it's an expensive and new bike. It's even worse when you realise that you could have done more to prevent bike theft beforehand. MYBIKE explains what you need to know about locking your bike and the differences between bike locks costing between five and 200 euros.
But let's be honest: even if you want to buy a bike lock, you can get annoyed, even twice. Firstly, briefly when you buy it, because the investment doesn't initially bring you any gains in terms of riding quality, comfort or fun. And the second time, when you are annoyed for a long time because there are only a few fragments of the cheap spiral cable that you thought you had used to secure your bike at the parking position of your beloved bike.
With the skyrocketing prices of new bikes due to the e-bike boom, bike leasing and the general trend towards travelling short distances by bike, the issue of bike safety is becoming even more important. It's not just about choosing the right product or the right products that fit together, but almost more about correct use and general know-how on how to do as much as possible to keep your bike safe when not in use.
The important thing is that even the established lock manufacturers agree on this: There is no guarantee against theft, only maximum possible security. The high material value, especially of pedelecs, is attracting more and more professional thieves - casual theft is becoming less common in this class, as statistics from the city of Berlin show.
"Until a few years ago, a lock value of around ten per cent of the bike's value was assumed. This formula is still largely correct, but you have to differentiate here, especially for high-quality pedelecs, cargo bikes or e-MTBs," says Thorsten Mendel, Head of PR at German manufacturer Abus.
A price range of 6000 euros would then mean 600 euros for the security. You can spend that; but with cleverly combined locks and other security equipment, you can achieve "feel-good security" for a good half the price.
Abus' roots lie in home security, so they have a great deal of experience when it comes to locking mechanisms and lock picking. In this context, Mendel speaks of two types of "lock-picking": the brutal and the intelligent, whereby intelligent should probably be taken in the worst sense of the word.
The brutal method involves physically destroying the cylinder or the lock body itself. The classic method is the bolt cutter, which is used to cut open the shackle, wire or chain of the lock. Professionals now even use cordless cutters to cut through particularly thick, hard and specially shaped materials.
As a general rule, the longer a burglary takes and the more attention a thief attracts, the more likely he is to abandon his endeavour. Power tools are quite loud, a combination of several locks promises long "working times", and of course all this is in relation to the expected return on the stolen bike.
At Abus, as is probably the case with its competitors, a number of employees are constantly working on testing the current methods used by thieves on the products and developing them further, says Thorsten Mendel. This includes destruction as well as so-called "lock pickers", who use wires, lock picks and thin, pointed lances to get at the locking cylinders.
Important information in this context: The respective security standards of both the locking cylinder and the locking mechanism increase in parallel to those of the shackles, chains or wires, so there is no "weakest" link in the proverbial chain.
We've already talked about shackles and chains several times. What types of bike locks are actually available and how can they be compared? The latter question is answered quite quickly. All brand manufacturers categorise their products into security levels. For Kryptonite these range up to 10, for Abus up to 15 and for Trelock up to 18, the naked value says nothing about the security of the lock, only in comparison to the brand's own products. A 9 for Kryptonite, for example, is therefore no worse than a 13 for Trelock.
This is why the level is usually given as 8/10, for example, i.e. level eight out of a maximum of ten. The table below shows quite clearly when and how much you should "escalate" when buying a lock. Kryptonite's recommendation here depends on the location and duration of use of the bike. As the maximum level appears quite often, the table should refer to a fairly high-quality bike. If you buy a simple trekking or city bike, you can deduct one or two levels here.
If you are still not sure which model is right for you despite the categorisation in the table, you can ask yourself the following questions:
As there are models of the highest security level for both folding locks and U-locks as well as chains, the final purchase decision is made more for reasons such as transport and flexibility in handling. We learnt from three corners of the "cracker scene" that they fear the plates of the folding locks and chains, which are difficult to grip with tools if the links are thicker than 8 mm. Sawing takes a long time, and U-locks, especially those in the middle and lower price range, are easier to destroy. An exception here is perhaps the Abus Granit Super Extreme 2500 U-lock, which according to the manufacturer is even resistant to cut-off grinders.
We believe that the bicycle locks from the brand manufacturers in the upper third of their internal classification are also well able to withstand the classic bolt cutter. Incidentally, the top models of all types can only ever be operated with a key, while combination locks "end up" at level ten out of fifteen in terms of security at Abus, for example, as the four-digit combination can somehow be found with patience. Three-digit combinations can even be found quite quickly, so hands off!
A small digression: Many buyers of locks with a number combination do so out of concern about losing a key or the bike is used by more people than there are keys. Here it is good to know that all the brand manufacturers researched make copies or third, fourth or fifth keys. To do this, the product only needs to be registered to the owner with a security code. This is now very common, says PR manager Mendel.
In addition to three-digit combination locks, there are other "no-gos" when it comes to bike security: Woven wires, often offered as a coiled spiral lock, often appear much more solid than they actually are. Especially with no-name brands, the metal mesh usually only encloses a nylon cable, and the locks can even be cut with good household scissors.
Lock cylinders with a tubular key, rather than a classic key bit, offer similarly little resistance. Almost every key fits on every lock; if not, a hammer is enough to "customise" it. In this context, the experts at Abus speak of "different locking systems", i.e. the number of different shapes that the prongs and grooves of a key can have and thus also the number of combinations with the locking cylinder that result from this.
When a container of discount locks from Asia reaches the domestic market, it can be assumed that not every product has its own unique key, but that - at a guess - every twentieth lock can be opened with the same key. Thorsten Mendel puts the number of different locks at Abus at several hundred thousand. In addition to the "diversity" of the key and the sheer resistance of the lock to physical force, there are a few small details that can make the purchase decision easier.
In addition to the bracket supplied for mounting the bike, it is particularly important to protect the lock from dirt and especially water. A bicycle lock is made of steel, albeit in high-quality alloys, and rust is therefore an issue.
However, it takes time for this to weaken the shackle or chain to such an extent that stability is lost. But if water gets into the locking cylinder or the mechanism, locking and unlocking becomes difficult, sometimes almost impossible, and there is a risk of the key breaking off.
And then what? That's why you need to make sure that it fits perfectly at the point where the shackle, chain or folding lock interlock. The points should fit as precisely as possible or even be sealed; many top models have a protective flap at the key opening.
The heavier or more solid the lock is, the better its surface should be covered. If, for example, you pull a "naked" chain over the paintwork of the frame or the anodisation of the rims, these will soon be rubbed away.
As the perfect lock is very dependent on the type of bike, the value of the frame and parts, the location and also the service life and, last but not least, the user's preference, it is difficult to give clear purchase recommendations here. The tips and advice are much clearer when it comes to correct use.
As you can see from the brief introduction above, it is essential to secure the frame of the bike to a solid object such as a bike stand or lamp post. This cannot be said often enough, yet many people make it far too easy for thieves by not following the rules. How quickly can a €6,000 pedelec be thrown onto the trailer of a lorry? During our research, we even read about thefts in which entire bike racks with 20 bikes were loaded by crane because they were not anchored to the ground. The lorry looked official, nobody asked, so watch out for details like that!
A bike should not only be secured but also connected in the garage or stairwell at home. Kryptonite again offers so-called floor or wall anchors for this purpose, which are bolted eyelets whose screws are not accessible. If there are no other fixed points for the bike lock, this is definitely a worthwhile investment.
Once the main part, i.e. the frame, has been secured, it is important to consider how quickly attachments can be removed. Wheels and seat posts are often fitted with quick-release axles, which must be integrated into the securing system. Front wheels with nuts can also be removed quickly, while rear wheels with hub gears often take too long for thieves to remove, but are worth more.
If you want to avoid extra locks or the risk of relying on the removal time, you will find the following for almost all attachments Anti-theft options such as the coded screws from Pitlock. In addition to the security itself, the storage location is also important. The greater the chance of being observed during a break-in or when dismantling components, the more likely a thief is to leave it. Places that are visible from all sides and ideally illuminated at night are avoided by potential perpetrators, the more "public traffic" or residents there are, the greater the security.
Incidentally, this is also the view of Insurances like this. In addition to a responsibly chosen parking space, many also require a certain security level to cover any damage, so always keep the receipt or owner card. Professional thieves take the remains of a lock and dispose of them a few streets away. In less busy areas, alarm systems can be a good addition. They emit loud warning sounds if the bike is moved more than usual when manoeuvring neighbouring bikes.
If you follow all of our tips completely and conscientiously and secure your bike or pedelec in a class-leading manner, you can have a clear conscience, but you also have something else: up to five keys! Folding lock for anchoring, U-lock on the front wheel, frame lock on the rear wheel, padlock on the saddle or helmet, the battery compartment for locking - if the bunch of keys is too bulky in your trouser pocket, you can actually have identical lock cylinders made by Abus for all five locks. Then one key is enough for all of them, and locking and opening is much easier and quicker.
Locks consisting of a U-shaped shackle and a bolt with the locking mechanism inside have been on the market for a long time. Among the high-security products, they tend to be the cheapest as they consist of fewer parts, although the top model shown contradicts this. They offer good to very good protection, but are the least flexible of all types, so you always need a bike stand or a lantern to lock the bike to. They usually come with a bracket, making them easy to stow on the bike. Handling is quick and easy.
MYBIKE tip: For commuters with a very high-quality frame.
Price: 69,90 Euro >> available here
The chain is by far the most flexible lock in the upper class. Depending on the length, it can even reach around small trees, or you can lock the front and rear wheels at the same time. However, this takes more time than other types. And: Transport is more difficult because there is no holder for the flexible part, for alternatives see page 31. If the lock is not integrated, as here, but a type of padlock, ensure the same level of security! The links should be at least 6 mm thick and covered by a fabric cover, as shown here.
MYBIKE tip: Very safe all-rounder, many anchor points
Price: 89,99 Euro >> available here
They are similar in design to a folding rule, much easier to place around objects than U-locks and easier to transport than chain locks. In contrast to the latter, folding locks can only be moved "on one level", but with a bit of practice, they are quick to put on. The surface should be coated with soft lacquer or plastic, otherwise you will kill the lacquer. Their metal plates are difficult to grab with bolt cutters, which is why they are most likely to deter thieves. For this reason, and because of the space-saving storage, we recommend this type.
MYBIKE tip: Top safety for frame and rear wheel
Price: 55,95 Euro >> available here
Such duo offers increase the flexibility of a U-lock immensely. The frame can be connected to the bike stand at any point with the U-lock, the steel loop cable is simply threaded through the wheels, saddle, child seat or bags, the loops are secured in the shackle. This makes the occasional theft of front bikes, for example, unlikely, but the disadvantage is that if the bracket is broken, the loop cable is no longer protected. As the bracket does not need to be very large, handling the combination is very convenient.
MYBIKE tip: with many attachments on the bike, rather during the day
Price: 43,99 Euro
The frame-mounted lock, which is often fitted to city and Dutch bikes at the factory, can be closed quickly, but only prevents the rear wheel from turning; the bike can still be carried away. Kryptonite has a marvellous addition here: the rather light chain can be looped around a fixed object and its end secured in the frame lock. When the key is inserted into the lock, both open simultaneously. The handling is great, the security due to the light chain rather intended for quick purchases or short appointments.
MYBIKE tip on the frame lock plus additional chain: ideal for stop-and-go use or in the countryside
Price: 21,99 Euro
In contrast to all other types, both braided cables and combination locks are only found in the lower security levels. This is really only about preventing opportunist theft, even amateur thieves can only be stopped for seconds. They are more suitable in combination with another, permanently secure bike lock or in an environment such as your own garage, which can be considered almost secure. Whether as a loop or spiral cable, even school playgrounds demand more security these days, and no-name products are often even open with a flick of the wrist.
MYBIKE tip for cable/number lock: Bike lock for use in additionally secured rooms (e.g. garage) or as an add-on to a permanently secure bike lock