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The body does this very cleverly: in order to maintain its core operating temperature of 37 degrees, it gradually reduces the blood flow to the skin and all non-essential organs below around 15 degrees outside. The feet are among the first victims of these economy measures. And when cycling, the situation is exacerbated by the fact that the wind and water spray contribute massively to cooling. The reduced physical heat output on pedelecs usually further increases the coldness of the feet. A combination that makes the cyclist's feet a thermal problem zone.
Fortunately, physical protection against the cold keeps the brain functioning for a very, very long time, and so over the past decades, cyclists with cold feet have tried out and devised many things that make cycling easier even in the cold half of the year or on longer rainy rides.
The solutions can be divided into three categories: Firstly, there are the Special socks. Anyone who has ever wrapped their stockinged feet in plastic bags on a cycle tour will be familiar with the rudimentary protective effect. Even if the water runs into the shoe and bag from above in the long run, at least it's warm water and the wind doesn't whistle through. So it's not so bad, depending on the destination, because the real problem is not wet feet, but the high thermal conductivity of the water and the evaporative cooling.
Waterproof socks or neoprene socks do the job better. With prices starting at ten euros, they are worth a try, especially when travelling. Compared to the second product group, overshoes, they have the decisive advantage that they are less irritating when walking and last longer.
Overshoes are the better choice when walking is not a major issue. They keep your cycling or civilian shoes largely clean, dry and therefore warm. Almost all overshoes are a little awkward to put on and fail at the latest when pushing on snow and rough terrain. They are available in a whole range of versions, each with different characteristics.
The third category is special Shoes for bad weather. Vapour-permeable membranes usually make them waterproof. At least in theory, these shoes combine the advantages of the other two categories: dry, warm feet and the ability to walk a few metres or even kilometres in them.
For our overview, we have selected recommended examples of each category, i.e. tried and tested or well-designed models. There are alternatives to all of them - and the more people cycle in bad weather, the more there will be.
Neoprene socks are not made for cyclists, but for divers and surfers. The material itself, a foamed synthetic rubber, is waterproof on the surface. Glued seams can therefore be used to produce completely waterproof garments. But neoprene socks are not waterproof, because in their usual areas of application they are under water anyway. Their benefit for cyclists is the insulating effect of even wet neoprene thanks to the gas bubbles in the foam. The thickness of the material is decisive for the strength of the insulation. Due to their volume, diving socks can usually only fit into cycling shoes with a thickness of two millimetres, or three millimetres without inner soles. Cycling socks should not have a grippy rubber sole, otherwise the shoe will be difficult to put on.
MYBIKE tested the two-millimetre Decathlon Diving Socks. Their insulating effect is similar to that of Sealskinz socks, but neoprene cannot keep up in terms of comfort. Although they can be worn all day in cold conditions and with little foot perspiration, they are more suitable as a back-up when travelling than as a permanent solution. With their favourable price and weight of less than 100 grams, they can shine for occasional use.
Waterproof socks are a difficult product in winter because socks are normally the layer closest to the skin. This means that their wind and weather protection is only effective when all the layers above are already wet and cold. Attempts by a major membrane manufacturer to produce such socks from robust rain jacket material were correspondingly unsuccessful - especially as water could run in from above without running off again and the low elasticity restricted walking comfort.
The British manufacturer Sealskinz, on the other hand, has been offering waterproof, insulating socks for more than 15 years. An elastic membrane sits between a synthetic fibre knit on the outside and (in the case of our socks) a merino wool lining. Even the "thin" version in the test is as thick as a light ski sock; for the thicker models, the inner sole of the shoe has to give way. Although the insulation decreases significantly with wet shoes and wet socks on the outside, even the thinner versions extend the comfort range by five to ten degrees. They also stay dry on the inside for a long time.
Rain overshoes are practically never made for walking around in. But they are really waterproof as long as the water doesn't come from underneath. In favourable cases, they are spacious enough to fit everyday shoes underneath. Their insulating effect is modest. Waterproof neoprene models therefore make sense for long distances, but for everyday use or as a back-up when travelling, the smaller packable models made of waterproof coated fabric are convincing.
Vaude has done a lot of things very well with the almost knee-high rain overshoes selected here. Because even long mudguards cannot completely protect trouser legs and shoes from splashing water, this length is a recommendation for commuters. Putting them on may be easier with zips than with Velcro straps like this one - but only as long as the zips are new and clean. The Velcro gaiters can be taken off in seconds. Then no-one in the office will be able to tell that you cycled to work through the slush.
Neoprene overshoes are a classic in road cycling. Many road cyclists do not have winter cycling shoes, but make do with thick, waterproof overshoes (or put both on top of each other). However, road cycling overshoes are made for extremely narrow shoes with binding plates. They only have a small hole in the sole and tear quickly when walking.
Only a few models are suitable for touring pedals. One of these comes from Endura. The overshoes have a robust rubber sole with large cut-outs and are cut slightly wider than models for racing shoes. Their upper material is 2.5 millimetres thick and waterproof taped, the front shoe area is reinforced. We had problems putting the overshoes on with road shoes of the specified size. They are more suitable for trainers than for shoes with heels and thick soles. On long pushes in the snow, the snow presses inwards and the toe of the overshoes can then slip off the toe cap. However, if the shoe matches the overshoe and only slush and cold need to be warded off, the robust overshoes deserve a recommendation.
The idea of simply cycling in a waterproof hiking boot in winter conditions is an obvious one. A good hiking boot can cope with slush and is comfortable to wear. Slightly thicker socks improve insulation. Nevertheless, most trekking boots require a few compromises: many are relatively wide, so that the shoe can bump against the cranks and frame when pedalling or force you to pedal with your legs apart. In addition, the shafts of ankle-high models are often unnecessarily stiff.
Our positive example from Salewa has a slim design and is very light with a pair weight of less than one kilo (size 42). A thin stiffening plate in the forefoot distributes pedalling pressure and the Goretex lining keeps water out. The elasticated cuff on the upper is not waterproof, but it is very flexible and prevents snow from penetrating the boot when you're pushing. The Wildfire is not very warm, but overall it is a mountain boot with unusually good winter cycling qualities. It is unbeatable on push routes anyway.
Waterproof, insulated cycling shoes are the professional solution for clipless pedal riders. They can withstand long pushing distances, are easy to put on and take off in favourable cases and are a little vapour permeable - although you shouldn't expect miracles given the solid upper material. Only a good handful of manufacturers offer such shoes for road cyclists and mountain bikers, and they almost always cost more than 200 euros.
The selected Shimano model has been continuously refined over the years and is definitely one of the best clipless pedal winter shoes. The Boa twist lock makes it easy to readjust the fit on the go, the water protection is very good up to the ankle, the sole is grippy and flexible enough for walking. In the current version, the renovated classic is so voluminous that thick socks are included. Goretex lining and a slightly warmer insole also make it suitable for longer rides in freezing temperatures. The reflective print is not the brightest, but it contributes to the wide range of uses from everyday wear to travelling.