Book recommendation: 3 Countries, 2 Women, 1 Tent: Travelling through the Caucasus by bike and boat

Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia: three countries that could hardly be more different, yet are linked by the Caucasus. That is precisely where Tanja Willers and Johanna Hochedlinger’s journey takes them. The two Austrian women are travelling through three countries, between the Caspian and Black Seas, on gravel bikes, with packrafts and plenty of courage. After their Journey “Through 21 countries from Cape Town to Vienna” This is already her second book to be published.

The journey begins in Baku. The destination is Batumi. In between lie high-altitude mountain passes, wild rivers, dusty roads, challenging sections where they have to push their bikes, and numerous encounters with people, landscapes and cultures. The two adventurers aren’t travelling exclusively by bike. Their gravel bikes are complemented by two ultra-light packrafts. This allows them to switch back and forth between land and water.

The book is published by Tyrolia Verlag. It comprises 224 pages, contains 272 colour illustrations, four map extracts showing the route, and a general map. The price is 28 euros; the ISBN is 978-3-7022-4372-2 >> e.g. available here.

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Cycle rafting as a unique form of travel

Bike rafting combines the possibilities of bike packing with those of pack rafting. The bike allows you to explore remote trails and cover long distances, whilst the boat makes it possible to navigate rivers, lakes or hard-to-reach waterways. This combination requires careful selection of equipment and a high degree of flexibility.

For Willers and Hochedlinger, this way of travelling becomes the key to the Caucasus. The route does not simply follow roads from one place to the next. Rather, it becomes a journey that adapts to local conditions. Water levels, weather, terrain and border regions set the pace. Sometimes they cycle uphill with their luggage, whilst at other times they have to carry their bikes. They then inflate their packrafts to navigate a stretch of river.

It is precisely these changes that make the tour so appealing. The Caucasus does not appear as a backdrop for a traditional cycling tour, but rather as a diverse landscape full of experiences. The authors show just how closely physical challenge, experiencing nature and cultural encounters are intertwined.

From high-altitude Alpine passes to rushing rivers

The journey presents the two female cyclists with a constant stream of new challenges. On high-altitude Alpine passes, the air grows thin, whilst raging rivers demand concentration and technical skill. Between these extremes lie long stretches along gravel roads, winding tracks and sections that are rarely found on the usual tourist routes.

For mountain bike enthusiasts, navigating the terrain is particularly appealing. The Caucasus offers not only spectacular panoramic views, but also a challenging combination of altitude, heat, solitude and varied terrain. Anyone who wants to Cycling adventure tour through Georgia Anyone planning a trip there will find similar conditions: high mountain passes, extreme temperature variations and long, remote stages.

The book is therefore not just about the scenery. It also gives a sense of what such a tour is actually like. Sore muscles, exhaustion, uncertainty and the search for a suitable place to sleep are just as much a part of it as fast-paced descents, impressive river landscapes and unexpected moments of joy.

Between khinkali, wine and lost places

Aside from the sporting challenges, the focus keeps returning to the people and the region’s culinary culture. The authors sample khinkali, drink Georgian wine and experience the Caucasus as more than just a sporting destination. It is precisely these details that give the journey a personal touch.

At the same time, the route takes in ‘lost places’ from the Soviet era. Abandoned buildings and historical relics reveal just how strongly the past continues to be felt in these three countries. In this travelogue, such places are not merely photo opportunities. They tell of political upheavals, bygone ways of life and a region whose history cannot be reduced to a few catchphrases.

The combination of personal travel narratives, descriptions of the landscape and practical advice makes this book of interest even to readers who are not planning an expedition lasting several weeks themselves. The book can serve as inspiration for one’s own journey, without romanticising the Caucasus as a straightforward playground for adventure.

A personal perspective on the adventure

“Three countries, two women, one tent” is not just a report on a sporting adventure. Tanja Willers and Johanna Hochedlinger are a couple and, as the Roaming Pedals team, they are travelling together through a region that lies off the beaten track of well-known bikepacking destinations. This lends the story an extra personal dimension.

Travelling together in such confined spaces inevitably leads to emotional moments. Cramped conditions, exhaustion and difficult decisions can put a strain on a relationship. At the same time, it is precisely whilst on the move that experiences arise which bring people closer together. The press release describes the journey as an emotionally charged undertaking and makes it clear that the focus is not solely on kilometres, metres of elevation gain or kilometres of river.

As a PE teacher, state-certified snowboard guide and qualified bicycle mechanic, Willers also brings a wealth of practical experience to the table. Since 2024, the pair have also been sharing their experiences full-time in stage shows. This combination of sporting expertise, travel experience and personal storytelling is likely what shapes the character of the book.

Inspiration for your own bikepacking tour

Anyone who is toying with the idea of a longer cycling trip will find in this book not only a sense of wanderlust, but also practical guidance. The authors offer tips for anyone wishing to try a similar tour. These include advice on route planning, equipment and coping with changing conditions.

As a general rule, bike packers should pay particular attention to weight, durability and versatility when undertaking such a trip. A bike that’s fast on tarmac isn’t necessarily suited to rough gravel tracks, sections where you have to carry your bike, and riverbanks. Storing your kit in a waterproof container is also a crucial consideration when it comes to bike rafting.

Further guidance on selecting a suitable Bikepacking bikes BIKE has already covered these topics, as well as common mistakes made during preparation, in its own articles. Our guide provides an overview of common problems “29 mistakes to avoid when bikepacking”. However, the two Austrian women’s adventure in the Caucasus goes far beyond a mere story of kit or technology.

Conclusion

“Three countries, two women, one tent” promises an unusual blend of a cycling trip, a packrafting adventure and a personal travelogue. Tanja Willers and Johanna Hochedlinger present the Caucasus from a first-hand perspective, navigating physical challenges, cultural encounters and emotional moments. Anyone interested in bikepacking, bikerafting and little-known travel destinations will find inspiration, guidance and a fascinating insight into an extraordinary tour.

​Book details:

Tanja Willers, Johanna Hochedlinger: Three countries, two women, one tent. Travelling through the wild Caucasus by bike and boat. Tyrolia Verlag, Innsbruck/Vienna 2026. 224 pages, 272 colour photographs, four route maps and one overview map, flexo-bound, 28 euros. ISBN 978-3-7022-4372-2.